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Don Case

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  1. If you come across anything interesting please post it here. There is not much to go on. I'm hoping for a few gems from the book. I don't know if you're old enough but I was a big Capt Puget fan when I was a boy, 60 years ago.
  2. OK now I'm thinking about it. Does anyone have a recommendation for free CAD? It's got to be pretty easy to learn. I used to use Hullform from Blue Peter. I tried Delft but got no where with that. Someone gave me a copy of Rhino and that was worse than Delft
  3. I don't have CAD and I don't really have a big desire to try to learn it (again)😃. I have this gut feeling that old stuff should be done in old(ish) ways within reason. I made a scarfed frame today and I can see that with a little practice I could make 2-3 a day. There's 50 of them so a month or two. That said, I have heard that there is some free CAD software out there that I might try but my computer is quite old. it would make things more precise.
  4. I've been using carbon paper(remember that stuff?) and it sorta works. All I have to work with so far is a blurry body plan. if i want to make patterns I would have to loft three frames into an 1/8" space. I could get it closer by just hand drawing two frames into that space. Any way I do it, if, as you say, cut outside the lines, I would actually be cutting the next largest frame. This is why I asked how much I should expect to be sanding off. A related question, because the inside of the frame has to be considered, how do you fair the inside? The best idea I could come up wi
  5. I'm starting to make frames. On the body plan the center 6 stations only differ by 1/4" max. There are 15 frames to fit in that 6 station length. Is it feasible to make one or two patterns to cover the 15 frames and sand them to fit during fairing? Two or three of the stations are only 1/8" or less different and I have to put three frames in there. Even if I made a pattern for each frame I'm sure I wouldn't be able to saw them any closer so i would end up sanding them anyway. How much would a good(not excellent😉) craftsman have to sand when fairing?
  6. Here's a couple of trial chock joint frames. They actually went pretty well. They would have to be reduced in the moulded dimension. I'm surprised how small(skinny) they are. I'll try and do some scarfed ones tomorrow.
  7. I've noticed that Kevin Kenny and Dan Vadas use a mixture of scarf and chock joints on their frames. Their Swan class ships are about 10 years earlier than mine. My copy of Steel is 1812, about 20 years later. He calls for scarfed or "framed" joints. I'm wondering what "framed' means? Was there a change of methods in this 30 year span? I've also seen frames constructed using overlapping layers of half thickness parts. These seem stronger but less realistic. Probably easier to build but I would have to mill a bunch of 1/8" thick wood.
  8. Hazel so far. I have quite a bit of it from when I was making bows (archery). It seems to work well. It does get dirty though, I'll have to figure out something there. I have Maple, Crabapple, Dogwood, Saskatoon(Serviceberry) left over from bowmaking. It's all probably good for boats. I have Yew also but it's a little soft. The panelling is left over from when we moved into the house before I was finished it. That was 45 years ago. Still isn't completely finished. I have 3 4x8 sheets of it left so I can waste all I want.
  9. I'm reasonably pleased with how they look. Now to number them and store them away as patterns. Little bit of a dip in one or maybe a lump on five.
  10. I live on Discovery Passage named by Capt George Vancouver after his ship in 1792. I was thinking of building the Leopard but the local history of the Discovery made it more interesting. (plus I wouldn't have to make 50 guns). I've done a dozen or so POB so I thought I'd do a scratch POF to really challenge myself. I'm 73 and have shaky hands. That's one challenge. I also have very minimal plans so far. I'm waiting for the Vancouver Maritime Museum to get back to me about John McKay's drawings Vancouver Maritime Museum : Ship plan : H.M. Sloop of war <i>Discovery</i> [2007.5000.016
  11. HMS Discovery1789. Maybe I should start a build log.
  12. Are the hawse pieces notched into the forward most cant frame? Much like the cant frames are notched into the apron area.
  13. If each space is a little small and each room is a little big then there is no harm done. I can see compounding errors being a problem some times but if there is a way around it why not take it. Setting anything up to cut wood that accurately is not easy although a thickness planer can skim off a tiny bit. Moving the fence on a saw .021", not with my hands🙂
  14. .0208 (.o21) inches is one inch in 1:48 if that helps. 10 scale inches would be .21". This leads me to question. Isn't a "smidge under 1/4"" close enough? Is that 40 thou going to make that much difference?
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