DennisL

Hi. I am currently scratch building a plank on frame model of a member of the Cruiser Class - the HMS Pandora of 1806. My questions have to do with the shot for the 32 lb. Carronades, there were 16 of them. Were these stored anywhere on the upper deck? I know there's a shot locker in the hold but I do not see any shot garlands anywhere on any of the deck plans from the museum drawings. Seems hard to believe they would have been carried up from the hold during action. Any help is greatly appreciated. Also, what would the diameter of the shot be for a 32 pound cannonball? Thanks in advance for any help. Dennis

I agree with Druxey. The only thing I would add is to stay away from the MicroMark/Microlux tilting arbor saw. I wanted to buy the Byrnes saw but couldn't as the web site has been down for a while due to the passing of Jim Byrnes. The Microlux saw is very underpowered and anything greater than 1/4" thickness is a chore to push thru.

I have the Amati kit The Revenge and will probably never build it. I've opened the box to inspect the kit but it is complete. It's a great kit. I would be willing to offer it to you for "reasonable offer". Shipping might be a lot due to size of box. Let me know if you would be interested as I'm 70 and am interested in selling.

I am confused by this thread. A pirated kit is a pirated kit regardless if it's sold direct by the pirating entity or thru another seller is it not??

I have 2 Amati models for sale. I've had them in my stash for a while and I realize I will never get a chance to build them. Looking for someone who can appreciate these great kits. The boxes have been opened and checked for completeness by me but are brand new and have never been started. Amati Kit #1432 HMS Bounty 1787 in 1:60 Scale Amati Kit #1300/08 Revenge 1577 A race Built Galleon in 1:64 scale. Looking for $225 + freight for the Bounty and $475 + freight for the Revenge. (it's a huge box). Please let me know if anyone is interested.

Hi Bill, Welcome back. Always great to see another New Englander in the group. I am from Central MA as well.

Amazing how they can reconstruct a face from the skeletal remains. Thanks for posting! Gives a human element to the great ships sinking.

Thanks to everyone who responded to my post on the Speedy! Much appreciated. As to Chuck's question on what I used for the color red, I used some Tamiya acrylics left over from my plastic model days. I mixed a 6:1 ratio of flat red to sky gray. The sky gray toned down the red and made the color more like an earth pigment red.

Here is my summary along with pictures of my just completed model of the HM Brig-Sloop by Vanguard Models. The kit itself, both quality of the materials and the accompanying instructions are superb! A number of build logs are have been done on this kit and thanks to them, I had some great hints and tips during the build of this project. Rather than add another build log ( I must admit at 70 years old and not very computer literate, the thought still intimidates me a bit) I've decided to add a few areas in which I diverged from the "out of the box" build. Over-all, the project took me 650 hours to build. Not sure if this about right or if I proceed at a snails pace. I'm somewhat of a minimalist when it comes to tools. An exacto handle with #11 blades, an old 12" Craftsman band saw and some small hands tools is about all I use. For refences I used Steele's Elements of Mastmaking, Sailmaking and Rigging (1794),Darcy Lever The Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor (1819), Lees The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1869 (1979) and Ian McLaughlin The Sloop of War 1660-1763 (2014). With that said, here are some areas in which I diverted from the original kit. I know these comments are very brief, if anyone has any comments/questions please do not hesitate to ask. I am by no means an expert so any comments are greatly appreciated. Copper Plates: After a brief (but unsuccessful) try at using the kit supplied plates I decided to use 3M black back copper foil Venture Tape #3M1765 - 1/4" width. I had real trouble fitting the kit supplied plates at the bow and stern areas having to cut them to fit the curves. Using the copper tape, I created strips of 4 plates adding the rivet details lightly with a very small pounce wheel. The tape was thin enough to allow to to navigate the curves and the adhesive back was very strong so they stayed put once set in place. I did use the kit supplied plates on the rudder assembly however as I did not have any issues fitting the plates at this location. Once completed, I darkened the plates using Liver of Sulphur extended life gel by EuroTool that I found on EBay. Follow the instructions carefully. Two notes of caution. The stuff darkened the copper very quickly, almost on contact. Have clean water and a soft cloth ready to neutralize and rinse off the solution. Once dry, I buffed out the copper using a soft dry cloth which brought out some highlights in the copper. And secondly, work outside unless you want your house smelling like rotting eggs! Rigging Line: I decided to try my luck at making my own line using Syren Model's "Rocket" rope walk. After trying to make the line using synthetic thread, I landed on using Gutterman 100% cotton thread Dark Brown #2960 and Taupe #1225 purchased thru WAWAK in NJ. The synthetic thread stretched a bit and I couldn't get the feel for it. When I cut the line, it shriveled up looking like a gypsy moth caterpillar on my work bench. I also wasn't too keen on having to set the synthetic line in the toaster oven. The cotton thread worked better for me and the "frizzies" associated with using cotton thread was minimal. I did not finish the line with beeswax. It left a whitish coat which was especially visible on the darker standing rigging. Sails: The most difficult aspect of this model was in the making of the sails. Many of the line controlling the sails was not included in the instructions/belaying plans. I referred to the references mentioned above. And yes, I am sure I made a number of mistakes that many more experienced will notice but the important thing is to learned a lot and aim to get better with each model. The sail material is two layers of Silkspan purchased thru Bluejacket. I am not sure what weight it is as they only offer one weight. I added the sail details using a #2 mechanical pencil (sail outline with 3/16" hem, reinforcement points, etc) before laminating the two sheets together. I used a frame and taped the two sheets together prior to laminating. I used a 10 to 1 ratio of water to white Elmer's glue then added some Tamiya "Dessert Tan" to the mix to give the material an antique tan color. The biggest problem I ran into were wrinkles in the fabric. Had to make several sails over and the finished product still has some small wrinkles in them. The bolt ropes, reef points and cringles were glues on the sails afterwards using matte medium which dried clear. Flags: I made the flags by first downloading the files from Google. Since I was going for an earlier time period than when Lord Cochran was Master and Commander, I used the white ensign as Speedy worked primarily in anti smuggling operations in the home waters during the first part of her career. Try to find as high a resolution in the files as possible. I then taped a piece of silkspan over a piece of white 8.5 x 11 paper and ran it thru the desktop printer. It might take several tries, but with the silkspan, the ink goes right thru the material and you get a double sided flag. Once cut to size ( I left a tab on the ensign side to fold over to create a reinforcement point when attaching the halyards) I finished the flag off with spray on matte fixative and let dry. While it is drying you can work the flag to give it more of a curl as when flown in a breeze. Sailors & Marines: These were purchased thru Vanguard Models and are exceptionally detailed which makes them a bit more easier to paint when you can see the crisp details. I used Tamiya acrylic colors dusted with pastel chalk to bring out some details. The figures were then topcoated in matte clear lacquer. Display Stand: Rather than use the clear acrylic cradle which comes with the kit, I used the acrylic pieces as templates and fabricated anew cradle in 1/4" solid walnut. I lined the inside face of each cradle with green felt. The base of my display case is white ash with walnut trim. The case itself is fabricated from 1/4" acrylic and siliconed together. Thanks if you reached this far in the reading. I hope this helps many of the newer members of our hobby. I recommend this kit to anyone as it build into a very beautiful model!

I bought transfer letters direct from woodland scenic on their website last year. They have a number of different fonts, sizes and colors. Gold, white. Etc. I would try them as they responded in a timely manner.

Hi I would recommend the New Bedford Whale boat from Model Shipways. You can usually buy it on sale at Model Expo. The scale is fairly large, the instructions booklet and plans by Erik Ronnberg are excellent and the planks are pre cut and spiled. The model builds over a hardback framework just like you would build a real boat. The actual boat is on display at the New Bedford Whaling museum here in Massachusetts . In would highly recommend a trip if you are ever in the area. The three boats mentioned earlier seem like a good start although I have never tried them. Dennis

Having tried many of the current ship model companies out there, I would vote for Chuck's instructions at Syren. I've built both Syren's Medway Longboat and Model Shipways Brig Syren and those instructions are the best I have worked with. The instruction manual that comes with the Model Shipways Nantucket Whaleboat is also top notch. Chuck doesn't only show you where pieces go but the method of getting you there. I would give Chris Watton at Vanguard a close second. His printed instructions and photos are of the highest quality and combined with his pre-engineering of the model itself leads to a very successful project. I've tried Mantua and Corel and find their instructions/details lacking in many aspects. Maybe it's a language thing. I do have a CAF model of Le Coureur that I haven't started yet. But looking at the complexity of the POF model and the paucity of details in the instructions I find that it will be a very difficult build based on the instructions. The instructions almost seem like an afterthought. I did buy the Ancre monograph of Le Coureur and hope this will be a big help.

Hi Hank Thanks for the note and for your service. I would definitely recommend Model Monkey to anyone who asks. Dennis

Beautiful model. The paint job is excellent with just enough weathering to make the plane look real. Nice diorama also!

I now make all of the rope I need using the Rocket found on the Syren Models website. It is easy to use and there are several tutorials on YouTube to help. I use 100 per cent cotton thread by Gutterman found on the Wawak website. No frizzies either!