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cbeckenb

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  1. Yesterday I got the main sail rigged to the mast, boom, and gaff. Here it is with the reef points and mast rings: And here it is all rigged: However..... It appears that I got the wrong diameter rigging line. See above, for example the reef points, lacing along the boom, and the halyards are using too large a diameter. The kit is supposed to come with 0.4mm and 0.7mm line, but it appears to have come with 1mm and 2mm: On the left is some 0.7mm I had left over from the Norwegian Pram. I used up the rest
  2. @bobandlucy I have not had much to do outside of work the past year which leaves plenty of time for construction 😉 I am however finally vaccinated and just about ready to rejoin the real world again, starting with flying home to visit my parents for Mother's Day. I haven't seen them since Thanksgiving 2019 so this should be a great weekend. In the meantime, however, work continues on the Lobster Smack! A short update today. I have managed to get the sails made over the past couple nights. As with the Norwegian Pram I have found that the
  3. Plenty of progress this weekend. I got the bowsprit, mast, boom, and gaff made as per the instructions. A miniature block plane makes adding chamfers a quick job, and I use a sanding stick to fine tune. The bowsprit took a couple tries since I misinterpreted the instructions the first time around. The first try is on the top here: The problem was that I misinterpreted which sides to taper. In case anyone watching this thread has not done this part yet, the profile of bowsprit as seen when looking at the laser-cut sheet is from the side. I th
  4. This week I painted the upper part of the hull. I used the MS4831 white paint, brushed on. I used Tamiya masking tape for curves to mask the waterline. It took several coats of paint, wet sanding, filling some low spots, painting again, wet sanding, etc. to get a nice smooth finish but I am happy with it. That is two heavy coats of satin Wipe-On Poly on the stained portion of the hull. After painting the hull I finally glued on the toe rails. They are a tad bit too long which will take a little trimming and some touchup, but no big deal. I still think it was
  5. @SkiBee Here is the stain: For the deck, I had planned on leaving it natural with just Wipe-On Poly. Now that I have added the cabin pieces, I am not sure that was a good idea, but I may have glued on too many things to go back at this point.. I should have at least not stained the wetwell covers. With the hull painted white and the rigging attached it may not look as bad. While we are on the topic of stain, I can report that the ZAR filler takes stain excellently (look at the planking at top of the sternpost): Obviously
  6. Good progress this weekend so far. I received my wood patch on Friday and got the sternpost and some other areas patched up. It sands really well, though it makes a bit of a dusty mess. After sanding the hull a bit more, I bent the toe rails, put together the cabin bulkhead, and stained them along with some other items. I decided to stain the toe rails off the model to avoid getting any stain on the deck. I also glued on the rub rails, which didn't require any wetting or heat to bend into
  7. Planking completed! I ended up using some spare 5/32" strips to add a 10th plank before adding the sheer strake. You can see the color difference: I will be painting the hull above the waterline so I am not concerned about the color difference. Once these planks were added and trimmed, I trimmed everything at the transom and sanded the hull. I have some putty arriving today (ZAR Wood Patch) that supposedly takes stain fairly well. I will use this to fill the nasty gaps around the sternpost and smooth things
  8. @SkiBee Thanks! At least your planking fills the space correctly 😁 I used your model as reference for how the heck those planks at the top of the sternpost are supposed to look. I'm not sure how I'm going to fill in those gaps... particularly since I plan to stain the part below the waterline and I'm not sure how well (or if!) putty takes stain.
  9. Finally for my progress so far, after fairing the hull and getting the keel/stem/sternpost pieces on, I have just about finished the planking. I forgot to take photos during the fairing and early planking unfortunately. My process has been to remove the plank and sand off the char, soak it, and rubber band or clamp it to the model to get the twist and any edge bending right. Once I am at this point I will use a hair dryer to dry it into place and let it cool for a few minutes, before using CA to glue the plank on a couple bulkheads at a time. T
  10. I have been working on this for a couple weeks or so before starting this log, so I will continue on with another post. Next step, attaching the bulkheads. As I have seen on other build logs for this model, the slots of the bulkheads for mine are wider than the spine of the ship. I found that strips of index card glued on either side of the spine provide enough width to make the bulkheads fit snugly. Time will tell if wood glued to index card can take the shear as well as wood on wood. Not like this model will be experiencing any loads higher than sitting on a shelf somewhere
  11. Hello everyone, This is my first build log (and first post!) on MSW, for the Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack by Model Shipways. I have been a plastic airplane modeler for several years now and a few months ago decided to try my hand at model ships, starting with the 1:48 18th Century Longboat, also from Model Shipways. I thought I would hate the tediousness of planking and rigging, but wanted to at least say I've tried it. Turns out I loved it! And now I'm hooked. Since the Longboat, I also have also finished the Model Shipways Norwegian Pram a few weeks ago, and decide
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