Ho203

I’m very curious how you plan to paint this model? It looks like it will be very difficult to paint the wheels. It will probably be pretty hard to get up under the pads on them. I assume you did not glue the catwalks in place or attach the wheels yet.

Hi Mike, I’m currently building a 1/350 Tamiya Fletcher with an Infini detail kit. Certainly not a weekend project! I’m thinking I’ll have 100+ hours putting on all those parts. But that’s not the reason I’m jumping in here. I wanted to mention my thoughts about primers. I would throw that water based stuff in the trash, and get some Mr Surfacer 1000 (or even 1500) and thin it with Mr Color Leveling thinner. For priming small scale models with fine PE details, I use 66% thinner to 33% paint and build up very thin layers. The layers need to be thin, and wet, so you have to be close, with low pressure (I use 12 pis with a 0.35mm nozzle for this mix). This stuff practically becomes part of the model. It is very durable, and sand-able. You might want to practice on a paint mule once or twice if your used to water based products. Also, the stuff is strong, so a mask and air extraction are a must. I also use mr metal primer from time to time, but also like VMS Metal Prep. The best thing you can do to improve paint and glue adhesion on your PE is take a nice, new, clean sanding sponge (I have a 400 grit Infini Models Sponge set aside that I use only for this) and very gently rough the surfaces of both sides of the PE while it’s all still in the sprue. The brass is very soft, so it doesn’t take much. I don’t bother with metal primer on the small parts that get glued right on the plastic. With the roughed surface, and Mr Surfacer, you’re good to go. I leave all the railings in the sprue, and after the model is fully painted, attach the railings. Railings get rattle can fine coat of Mr Metal Primer and painted with the appropriate Mr Color paint and 50% Mr Leveling Thinner, while still in sprue. I do this because with all the handling while getting bent and glued, you can lose bits of paint here and there. Prepping as above, this is a minor issue. After the railings go on, a light coat of Mr Color flat coat hides the shiny glue spots that might be visible. Mr Color also has a full array of IJN colors. I know I sound like a Gunze commercial, but man, once you try them, you’ll never go back to water based paints. Tamiya paints are great too, if thinned with that Mr Color Leveling Thinner, but they have a poor selection of colors. good luck! Can’t wait to see your progress as I have a Shimakaze on deck.