Jump to content

Landlubber Mike

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About Landlubber Mike

  • Rank
    Landlubber Mike
  • Birthday 08/17/1973

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Northern Virginia/Washington DC area

Recent Profile Visitors

6,305 profile views
  1. I'd probably build the AV-3 over the CV-1. I love the seaplane tenders, and the 3/4 deck won't hide as many details near the bow as the CV-1 version. How do the support girders look? Just curious about your impressions of those and other details as to scale. The PE set for the AV-3 doesn't seem to include a wood deck like the CV-1, but not sure if the AV-3 had a wooden deck. Looks like the Trumpeter upgrade set has more PE than typical for kits, but I think I would be more inclined to buy it if Pontos or Infini or some of the other guys came out with a set for it.
  2. I haven't had too many problems on my Charles Morgan. It's not the easiest to work with, but looks fantastic.
  3. Really nice job! I saw one of the light boats on the Delaware shore and thought it would be neat to model one of these interesting subjects. Your model is a really good representation of the real thing, fantastic!
  4. Thanks. I had seen concerns about wood deck adhesives but didn’t know if they were borne out or not. Good to know, thanks!
  5. Beautiful work there Craig. Can I ask - I wasn't sure if you went with the wooden deck or just painted the kit deck, but if you did use the wooden deck, did you use any additional adhesive?
  6. I’ve seen folks use Tamiya Clear for the same purpose (X-20 I think?). I haven’t tried that yet, but seems like a great idea. I haven’t had too many issues with CA though - I apply it to the part via a pin, and then use either a toothpick or folded paper towel to pick up any of the excess.
  7. Very cool! How are the clear cockpits on these kits? Being such a focal point, they'd have to be well done and blemish free.
  8. EG, thanks for the information and the pictures as always! I agree that the cowl flaps have some of the limitations from plastic injection. They aren't too thick (the ones in that SB2U-3 picture seem twice as thick as mine), but still overscale. I'm almost glad Eduard didn't give replacements - they were a real pain to glue on my Wildcat. I'll probably sand them down a touch, but otherwise not worry too much. Looking at some other build logs, the closed flaps are still a touch open, so I could still show off those Eduard brackets underneath. Going with the closed flaps will also help min
  9. There aren't too many models of this one out there, and even fewer with the open cowl option. Here is one of the SB2U-3 I found - I suppose it doesn't look too bad open, and will look better with the Eduard detail pieces (I think they must be hinges) filling in the gap. Here is one of the kit engine - I think the Eduard wiring details are a big improvement:
  10. I spent some time last night working on the cowl. The two halves come together fairly ok, but are thin and you end up losing the metal braces along the two seams. Never fear, Eduard to the rescue with replacement braces. I also replaced the exhausts with the set from Quickboost. They are a little crisper and have a deeper hollow to them. I'm trying to decide on the cowl flaps. The kit gives you a closed and open set. I'm thinking of going open to add these Eduard opening hardware. I'm not fully sure
  11. This one is moving along pretty quickly. I've got the front and rear cockpits just about assembled. Am waiting on some paint to finish the oxygen bottles, then can and then can go ahead and add washes, etc. I'm using Vallejo metal colors - for the interior, I'm using Duraluminum since it's a touch darker and will make things easier on shading the interior a touch. Vallejo's metal line is awesome - so easy to spray and clean, and hand brushes really nicely as well. The Eduard set has a lot of nice upgrades for this kit. Along with the typical cockpit details (which are in color
  • Create New...