Organ tech
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Everything posted by Organ tech
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It isn’t shone in the plans or provided for in the parts. It would be easy to add and I may. -
I have glued the deck structure- pilot house in place. The chains, supplied, for staying the funnel are too large to scale so I used the supplied thread, which is too large to scale for any of the rigging. I failed to get the curve on the bottom to conform to the deck. I also added the port side pin rail, not in the plans, as I am adding one or more sails to the formast to hide the out of scale rigging there. I wish I had bought finer thread. The running rigging thread looks better.
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Rope loops on belaying pins. I formed them around a 16 penny mail, add glue to the side of the fife rail, then drape them over the pin with pointed tongs.
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I did get the direction right, just didn’t secure it to the eye right☹️
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My main mast is glued in. The gaff lift is belayed and the boom sheet secured. I am disappointed that the deck block is askew, but will leave it and press on.
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The stern area is ready for the main mast. I have the boom sheet block secured to the deck, with an eye, ready for the line that I will thread 1st, before glueing the mast.
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The lift looks taught at the top.
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Belaying all of the lifts-halyards. I hang a clothes pin on the line to make it just taught, but not bending the mast, then add a drop of clear glue. I will simulate the rope wrap- arounds on the pins, later, with extra thread.
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If I made a lot of ship models I would get a watch makers lathe and turn them from wire. I bought extra blocks from a firm in Australia. I think they have pins too🙂
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Thanks for the compliment! It is a stock item that came wit the kit.
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Thanks druxey🙂
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I work with very small parts on top of a piece of 600 grit black sandpaper. This reduces bouncing and rolling and makes small things easier to see.
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I also added my figure head. Here, I made the mistake of gluing in the bowsprit first, not leaving enough room to fit the correctly fashioned figurehead assembly. I went ahead and installed it wrong. I might correct, as I see a way to re-do it.
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I assembled and installed the foremast fife rail. One piece is missing so I used wood. Too bad I spilt the deck under the rail when installing! In this small model, I only noticed it in the photo. I tensioned and belayed the port topgallant halyard to it, after gluing in the foremast at a little too much rake :-(.
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I am drilling the holes in the fife rails for the belaying pins - a modified sewing pin works well as a drill for the Britannia metal. The plan shows the foremast fife rail 180 degrees oriented to how I would expect it ( see my photo of the top plan view). I want the haulyards to belay behind the yards so I will place them accordingly. I am not sure why the main mast has a fife rail, but will ask that in the right forum.
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The masts are still not glued. I increased the rake. The plans show more rake for the main mast, when it seems the square rigged formast would need as much or more(?)
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Good point They are a little. The main mast needs to be a little more. The masts are not glued in yet.
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I am redoing my forward companionway and a couple of other deck structures. I can do better. My ship with the deck house in place, not affixed yet, just a photo op.the windows on the pilot house don’t cut it either. I will re-do them.
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—-has a fife rail (?).
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Ship posing with its main mast and both paddle wheel assemblies in place. Before I glue in the masts, I will add the fife rails, debating whether to use the Britannia metal parts supplied, or to fabricate from wood. I am not sure why the aft rigged main mast has one. Maybe included in the original builders plans in case an owner wanted to square rig this mast(?).
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thanks Druxey 🙂
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One paddle wheel assembly glued in. I simplified this by making “dummy” helper sponsons that hide behind the paddle wheels, giving extra support.
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Sponson supports are steel wire. I am carefully shaping them so the wheel assemblies sit plumb in their openings, trimming and bending with pliers.
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