allanyed

A bit of progress on Effie. The deck is planked and scraped, but needs a bit of trimming around the various deck openings.  With no top timbers on the frames, sanding and scraping the deck planking was easier than when there are bulwarks or top timber framing in place.

There are stanchions between frames versus having top timbers on the frames. The frames stop at the same height as the top of the deck beams so the stanchions will be the support for the bulwark planking. 

When framing the model I placed small blocks between frames to give added strength.  Coincidentally, these act as a stop for the stanchions.  I have drawn these blocks in red on the attached.

I have started fitting filler decking pieces between the stanchions to close in the decking around the stanchions as shown on the photo.

Allan

Druxey,

You may very well be right in that your drawing has a rail that truly "tucks" in between the counter planking and hull planking.   I can not quite tell from the contemporary model photos that I dug through, but they truly look to lay over the seam of the planking.   I did dig through my NMM drawings and they do not show enough detail to indicate a tuck nor a laid over tuck rail.  Would love to find a contemporary drawing showing this.  I found the attached at the NMM Collections site when doing a search for "Stern Rail"   The rail does not look to be laid over the planking as I had surmised but much closer to what you show.  Sure looks like a "fun project" making the rail as shown on the photo.

Allan

Also watch to see if the tuck rail crosses the ports.  The following sketch and photo of the Leda, a contemporary model in the Rogers collection show this.

Allan

Love it! 

Allan

Frazer,

Each deck has a different round up (which is the earlier term for deck camber.)  Which decks will be visible on your model?  The round up for various size ships can be found in the Establishments, but I believe the earliest Establishment is more than 60 years later than Sovereign so there may be no definitive answer available.

Allan

Wayne,

Are the frames in two pieces or one?  I cannot imagine a tree wide and long enough from which a complete frame can be cut to cover the height and beam.  Maybe a giant redwood?

Allan

Frames are made of floors, futtocks and top timbers so the grain is running straight for as long a run as possible to give strength.  Unless plywood is used, or the frames are sistered and  each part of the two has the grain running in opposite directions a frame cut from a sheet of wood will have weak points where ever the grain runs near 90 degrees to the long axis of the frame. 

Allan

Sorry Druxey, my sketch leaves something to be desired.  Those were supposed to be lashings, not chain links. 

Allan 

When searching for drawings of the Euryalus 1803, I found a drawing of an iron tiller that replaced her earlier tiller in 1821.  It is secured to the rudder with a wedge and lashings to eye bolts in the rudder.  I do not know if this method was used with wooden tillers, but suspect not.  The iron tiller did not have a gooseneck that would have kept the tiller from unshipping from the rudder as Druxey mentions above so the wedge may have been only used with this later style tiller.

Allan

^Spencer

^{What plans and ship are you working with?   The bit of plans that are glued to the frame look like you are cutting at the station lines.   The body plan that shows the station lines is not a framing plan, although some frames do in fact fall on the station lines in most cases.    If you really feel ambitious, study the lofting articles here at MSW to get any idea on how to draw the other frames.} 

^Allan.

Ed

You know that this build of yours will take hours away from the rest of our own builds as we keep checking your progress and studying the photos closely.  And a big THANK YOU for doing so!!!

Allan

The deck beams are coming along.  The pattern on the plans is odd in at least one place.  The photo 9-13-13B of the deck beam locations has a black arrow showing  what I mean.  This may be a result of one of the refurbishments made since she was originally launched.  There are also more typical uses of heavy beams, narrow beams, carlings and ledges, lodging knees and hanging knees.  The mast partners are relatively simple designs.  The hanging knees are in fact hanging standards as they fay to the bottom of the beams, not the sides of the beams.

I added a few of the knees where I plan to leave a bit of the deck uncovered.  I am also installing the after cabin bulkheads and deck as I may leave the sliding cover open.  There will also be a ladder going from the weather deck down  to the cabin deck.  

Allan

Oh my, another build that I must now follow.  Your work has sure started off beautifully!

Allan

Ben, John, Elia,

Thank you.  As soon as winter sets in and snow covers the golf courses, Effie should move along a bit more quickly.  Going slow though does have the advantage of being more of a relaxing project for a change, easier to pay attention to the details and less rework. 

Allan

The hull planking is on and first sanding complete.  Hand sanding to a fine finish will be next.  I left a section of planking off to expose the framing, but I have decided against installing most of the below deck items inside the hull.  I left a little DNA on the keelson after a little slip of a chisel, so there is no denying who built this thing.

I put in a few inside planks for strength and the two mast steps are in place.  The deck frames are started.  There are a few carlings where there are deck structures and to set up the masts' partners.  Once the deck is framed the stanchions and bulwarks will follow.

Allan

Greg

Finally tuned in to your current build.  Every bit as precise and beautiful as Pegasus.  Will she be fully rigged?

Allan

Dan,

Fully rigged, oh my.  I look forward to many months (years) of following your build.    Maybe it will give me the spark I need to go back to rigging something more complex than a schooner.

Keep up the great work.

Allan

Richard,

Yes they should lie flat on the table unless the futtocks  are stepped or tapered  in width as they rise.  Even so they would  probably be  

"flat" on one  side.

Allan

Druxey hit the nail on the head. Scratch or kit.  If kits, far fewer tools are needed.  They are all desirable but less of a necessity.

If scratch, have you considered your library as well as your tool cabinet?   Steel, Lavery,  Lees and recent publications from Sea Watch books by members of this site that will help you in your endeavors.

Allan

Loblolly

Couple points to consider:

English walnut has been around for centuries as have ship models.  I don't recall ever seeing or reading about walnut being used on the old models.  Same for models in France or other parts of the old world.  Walnut being rather large trees when mature certainly makes it easier to cut down to modeling size lumber than boxwood for example, yet boxwood is commonly found on contemporary ship models.  I suspect it may partially be because walnut is not the greatest wood for ship modeling.  My own experience with English walnut is not good but better using American (Black) walnut.  It does not fray or splinter like English walnut and seems to be harder than English walnut in that it does hold a nice sharp edge.  Walnut sawdust stinks and is a  respiratory irritant as well as a skin toxin.  I no longer use walnut for these reasons (but I do like to eat  nuts from the English walnut better than from black walnut trees.) 

For me, it is better to use box, castello,  some fruit woods such as apple and pear, or a host of other hardwoods. 

Allan

Sad, of course it is.  But think about it.  In 100 years people will look at these phones and shake their heads in amazement at how people had to use a hard device to communicate rather than telepathy or whatever they will be using by then.  It will be as interesting to them as ship models are to us.   That said, ship models are by far more beautiful and the intricate details that we see were made lovingly by hand, not robotic arms.

Allan

Richard,

Russ has given good advice.  The cant frames indeed lie at an angle, and each cant frame lies at a different angle.  They are beveled inboard and outboard to allow the planking to fay completely against the frames as it bends around.  These are the most challenging frames to make and to set in place. 

I usually make a set of card stock templates, one for each angle, then use these to set the table of my sander before sanding the part of the frame that is secured to the deadwood.  This  assures that the angle on the frame is correct.  To chisel or sand the angle  by hand is not easy to be as accurate.  In the photo it is marked 28 forward and aft which are the two frames at station 28 which was at the aft deadwood.

Allan

Richard,

Yes

Allan

Bluto,

You have asked for a whole lot of information that by rights takes pages to explain.  There are thorough explanations in Ed Tosti's book on Naiad  as well as Volume II of Euryalus (36) 1803.  These are available from Seawatch Books.  You can also get some insight from Ed's really fine build log on the Naiad here at MSWorld.

Allan

If you are painting, oak is probably OK.  If it is to be left natural, it is quite grainy and does not look quite right.  I am not a fan of walnut for anything except that I have used it for wales on occasion and that was American black walnut.  My preference is boxwood, European or Castello, the latter being less expensive and easier to find.  Box is strong, holds an edge, and with imperceptible grain in most cases.

Allan