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Everything posted by allanyed

  1. Use/substitute whatever material works best. Card stock, paper, copper, brass, different wood species and the list goes on. I cannot speak from personal experience about kits as I have never built one but some 25 years ago I was thrilled to be given the Mantua SoS kit and promptly gave it away after opening it and seeing the materials. Had I any inkling about kit bashing/material substitution at that time I would have given it a serious try. Lesson learned. It is not always just the materials in some kits. There are too often out of scale parts such as grainy wood like walnut, gratings, and belaying pins as examples. I really admire the kit bashers who can replace these kinds of materials with better suited materials and wind up with spectacular models. Allan
  2. I hate macro, or rather it hates me as it is so good at pointing out imperfections. 🤔 I doubt anyone but you will notice tiny mistakes when viewing your model, so be happy as your work really is good! One thing I noticed in your close up are square axles for the trucks on the carriages. Hope you don't mind an idea for the future. If you want to round the ends the the trucks could turn rather than leaving them square you can make a little brass rod cutter with a hole drilled the size of the axle and a couple cross cuts on the face with a razor saw or hacksaw to create cutting edges. Chuck this cutter in a drill press or some other and it will round the end portion axle in a second. Allan
  3. Great information Ian! Does Harland give a contemporary source for this information? Thanks for sharing! Allan
  4. There are a number of books showing the rabbet and how to make it. It is basically a groove in the lower edge of the garboard seats as well as the ends of the balance of planking as it rises up the post and stem. It is dynamic in shape so near impossible to draw for it's entire length, but it really is only a matter of following the shape of the framing. No offense to others, but I always READ everything I can if only to avoid mistakes others have made and then shared their experiences. With the cost and scarcity of wood these days, it is something to consider. If you do a search here on MSW the rabbet is addressed in how others go about cutting it. Some use scrapers, some chisels. It really is not very hard to do. Maybe practice on a piece of scrap and you will gain the confidence you need to move forward on your final piece. Many builders spend hours, days, weeks researching to avoid making the scrap pile too large. There will still often be mistakes made, but if nothing else, reading is educational which means it will help avoid trying something others have tried that did not work. Why waste time making the same mistakes. A twist on Einstein's quote, Insanity is doing the same thing others have tried that did not work and expect different results. Allan The dynamics of the shape of the rabbet in the keel moving aft to the stop point:
  5. Very nice Michael! I agree with you that the pinrail holes appear to be way over scale. Kits are notorious for supplying hugely over scale pins. For SoS, there probably were no pinrails at all? David Lees notes in Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War belaying pins were not used by the Royal Navy until about 1745. This is more than 100 years after SoS was built, and when introduced, they were mainly in racks lashed to the shrouds not on racks secured to bulwarks or on the bitt cross pieces. Donald McKay's book on on the SoS is supposed to be a great source of information for anyone building SoS and might address this as well. Again, your construction is very clean and very nicely finished! Allan
  6. Thanks for the likes everyone! David, I agree the lion's head ports were more stylized on contemporary models, but if the model builder/artist had seen a real lion on the 'net I bet they would have been more realistic 😄 In any case, your point is well taken and I do thank you. As to the blue rails, purely conjecture based on the below contemporary model of a Royal yacht from 1702. This may have been repainted blue in a later repair/renovation of the model, but I would hope something this obvious would have been done as the original. Or.... perhaps the royal yachts received the more expensive coatings, especially blue, when compared to the galley frigates even if they seem to have been named after the various kings. In the photo, even the wales are blue which I did not follow in this build as there was question as to whether or not the wales or chain wales were painted at all. In researching contemporary models and text during this project I think more questions were raised than answered 🤪. To argue against the blue rails Richard Endsor's painting of the Charles Galley shows blue on the side as on the model but gold rails. Your point got me to thinking about this again and to satisfy myself, I did some more searching. Drat!!!! Lo and behold, I found a painting by VdV showing her with gold cap rail. Time to ask the client if he wants to make a change. Not a huge job, but important none-the-less. Thanks again Allan
  7. It has been some months but it has been busy with another 500 or 600 hours of fun (mostly)- Best bower and bower anchors still to go on and ensign at the stern. Stub masts are in temporarily. The base has a faux burl finish. I was not sure about doing this, but I am pleased with the result. I considered a burl wood veneer but after watching a well done video on how to make the faux finish I thought to give it try. In studying contemporary models, the vast majority do not have the open gun port lids rigged. I have the lids in place and with rings for the lines to open and close the lids, but I am not especially keen on adding the lines and cleats for each. Looking at photos of about 30 or 40 contemporary models at Preble Hall, in the Navy Board Ship Models by John Franklin as well as photos in Lees' Masting and Rigging, I only saw one model with these lines attached to the port lids. Any thoughts on this are most welcome. The last two pictures show a close up of the inboard side of the open port lid with the lion's face followed by the original drawing variations and the photo from which the drawings are based. Overall I am not a fan of 1:64 scale for getting better detail in general, but the next project was started early in 2020 at 1:64 so I will go back to it and see if it gets any easier. Allan Lion face on port lid
  8. As above, LoS does not blacken brass easily if at all. Copper, no problem. I have gone to copper whereever possible, but when I do need to use brass, pickle it, rinse it and blacken with Birchwood Casey (or similar products) since my favorite, Blacken It is no longer available that I can find. Allan
  9. Hi Laggard Never say never😄 Deadeye sizes and style vary with scale, ship, which channel, etc. I would be surprised if there are enough aftermarket chain plate sizes and types to cover all situations. I have been buying rope and blocks, but I plan to make rope on my own for upcoming builds as I invested in a rope walk. Blocks??? I am not so sure about that. I have made my own blocks and have purchased them. The same problem arises though when buying them. On a full rigged ship, there are a lot of sizes and types of blocks and after market blocks seem to be limited to about a dozen sizes/types. I will be curious to see others' responses. With the growth of 3D printing, a proper drawing is all that is needed to have custom made pieces so I see that as a big plus to sourcing some things such as gun barrels, and more, without sacrificing accuracy. Allan
  10. Didn't know whether to post it here or in the strange things from Australia. Watch to the end. Mother Nature can be a scary lady. Apologies if this is a repeat, but even if it is, worth watching again. Allan Hail Storm1.mp4
  11. I think a lot of us are interested Roger!! Thanks Allan
  12. Chris, Building the models looks to be a fun project but I would be cautious with pre sewn sails or any cloth materials for that matter. It is impossible to make these to scale at 1:50 or smaller using cloth and sewing machines whether done on your own or buying them pre-made. It is a shame to see many well built models ruined with cloth sails that are so out of scale. If you do a little search you will see that there has been a lot of discussion and instruction details on using alternate materials to make realistic sails to scale lately here at MSW. I am not familiar with CMB's sails, so they may be using scaled materials other than cloth and sewing thread. It will be interesting to see what materials they are using. Allan
  13. The combination of CA & Rigging is not quite as bad as mixing vinegar and bleach but definitely two things that should never meet. (except to make a needle tip on a line to be rigged) Allan
  14. Dave, It is not hard when it is fun to do. It can be frustrating at times, but then it is just more of a challenge!!!
  15. Derek, As you probably know paper of all kinds are in short supply. I have read claims it is due to worker shortages in the pulp mills in North America, and other claims that it is the lack of truck drivers so ships and warehouses are waiting to be unloaded. Allan
  16. I was shown a similar progression some years ago regarding the progression of a ship model builder. It is not only the actual building, it is the access to tools and space, as well as learned skills, and the desire to do the many hours of research that help separate the categories. And this is not meant to say one is better than the other. A tadpole can be as beautiful to see in the pond as the frog. Allan
  17. HI Dave We use it over here as well. You piqued my interest on this one so I did a quick search and found the following--- The oldest known use of the phrase dates back to the 1840 work 'Way down East; or, Portraitures of Yankee Life by American author Seba Smith. In his 1855 classic, Westward Ho!,” British author Charles Kingsley wrote, “There are more ways of killing a cat than by choking it with cream.” Others did cats in with butter while a few still offed dogs with pudding. "There are more ways to do in a dog than hanging it" was a similar term but generally referring to nefarious men. Even Mark Twain got in on the act in A Connecticut Yankee in King Arthur’s Court in 1889 -- “She was wise, subtle, and knew more than one way to skin a cat.” Allan
  18. For squares, the machinest square shown previously is my preferred tool in various sizes, but for squaring tight small items, I have a couple Lego blocks that are perfectly square and work well. The grandkids took pity on Grandpa and sent me a few so the price was right😄
  19. Dave, The following is the contemporary model located at the Royal Museum Greenwich from which the sketch was made by John Franklin. Allan
  20. Shep I am sure Druxey will reply, but in the meantime, I would invest $7 and buy his booklet on making sails. It has all the details on his process including adding the bolt ropes and seam lines. https://www.seawatchbooks.com/ItemDisplay.php?sku=115003 Allan
  21. kearnold What ship/year/nation? What items are you referring to? Many kits put in cast metal parts even if they were wood on the actual vessel so they may need to be different colors or replaced altogether depending on the item itself. Examples are ships wheels, anchor stocks, moldings et al. Just as an FYI, you mention steel and iron. While steel has been around for thousands of years, in shipbuilding, steel was not replacing iron until the 1880s, at least in the UK (Source - Royal Museum Greenwich) They may be referring only to hull and framing construction though, not necessarily fittings. Still, I thought you might find it an interesting point. Allan
  22. I know this may be too late, but for MODELING purposes, there is another option found on a contemporary model for channels mounted on the channel wale. This is from John Franklin's Navy Board Ship Models 1650-1750, page 66. You can see that the modeler made the channel as a widened section of the channel wale itself. The book also shows a closeup photo of this on the model. Allan
  23. It is a real pleasure to see another member that takes time doing research and paying close attention to details. Your scale is quite large so a fun build log to follow. Thank you for sharing your first go around as well as your new B&B build. Allan
  24. Very glad to see you coming aboard Richard. Your background and experience sounds like it might give some insights to other members from time to time!! Allan
  25. Whatever method that you choose that gets accurate final results is a good one. There is no easy way to pre-sand to the final thickness before installing the fames. Close is good, but getting the bevel started and still leaving a 1/32" or even 1/16" excess is not a bad idea. You can always remove material but cannot put the wood back on. Allan
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