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Everything posted by allanyed

  1. Clogger I use a 10" table saw to rip billets that can then easily be handled on my small (3") saw. The waste in the form of saw dust from the 10" saw, if cutting thin sheets, can be as much as the yield of wood to be used. I suppose it can be done, but I feel a lot more comfortable handling small pieces with the 3" saw compared to the 10". If you want to rip small strips, say 1/8 X 1/4, I think this would be difficult as well as possibly dangerous with the big saw. I am curious to read replies from others.
  2. Tony, I know McCaffery and McNarry use wire on VERY small scale models, but for 1:98 and larger it will look like, well,..... wire, not rope. Guess it depends on how much realism one wants to depict on their model and in the end, whatever make the builder happy.
  3. Lyle Don't use the kit string if at all possible. Search the many threads here and on the net on making rope. Gutermann and other brands of materials are reviewed and discussed. You will also need to decide if you want to go with cotton, linen, or poly.
  4. Go to the top of the page and click "More" Then click on "Articles Data Base". Then scroll down to the Masts and Rigging section. Then click on Danny's spread sheet, third one down. Cheers
  5. Hi Trond Actually the spread sheet here at MSW is based on Lees' Masting and Rigging. It may be close or the same as Steel for his era, but Lees covers the 17th-19th centuries so helps a wider range of model builders. Both are worth having and checking as appropriate. Used copies of Masting and Rigging are available for under $100, but if one is only interested in the mast, spar and rope sizes without drawngs and details on rigging, the Vadas spread sheet is a free way to go (not including the 1670-1711 time period which as mentioned above is not at all accurate, especially when it co
  6. Thanks Hubac. I hope NYC will be getting back to normal for you soon. I miss the City, not being able to go for over a year now, thanks to Covid, after having lived nearby for 35 years and then traveling there the past 5 years for business and pleasure, mainly to Manhattan and Queens, (but I do love all the boroughs.)
  7. Dave Have you looked at the mast, spar, and rope sizes on the spread sheet here at MSW? It is based on the formulas from Lees' Masting and Rigging English Ships of War book and is quite useful except for the period from 1670 to 1711. An incorrect formula was used on the length of the main mast for this time span so every thing else that follows is wrong. But, from 1640 to 1670 and from 1711 to 1860 all the numbers appear to be correct. Go to "More" on the ribbon at the top of the MSW page, then click on Articles Data Base, then scroll down to Masting and Rigging Spread sheet and cli
  8. Hi Matt, I just joined your build log party and happy that I did. Your work AND your photography are both first class!!!
  9. Rick The upper stunsail booms had eyes in each end from 1810 and beyond according to Lees on page 18 of The Masting and Rigging,. On page 118 he describes the hauling in and out of the booms as having two double blocks, one made fast to the outer boom iron, the other stropped to the hole in the inner end of the boom (I assume when there were no eyebolts.) He makes no mention of blocks with hooks, but that does not mean that method was never used. Henry, I am curious about the eyes and blocks with hooks. Can you give your source as this seems it would be a nice alternative
  10. I THINK, without years of research, that the closest I could get to learning those secrets Druxey is to ask Richard Endsor. For anyone wanting to use the Heritage site, it appears that there are only several times it can be used for free without signing up for a basic plan, as I just found out. There is a 14 day free trial though, so have fun while you can. Was fun while it lasted.
  11. You beat me to it Druxey. I agree with you completely. Don, it is far easier making one perfect barrel and casting as many as you need for your build. You can cast in metal or casting resin. Silicone molding material is readily available and far easier than using plaster or some other materials and there is no need to make lost wax castings with all the paraphernalia that is required. There are some tricks you can use so there is no need to make two piece molds which invariably leave a seam that has to be filed and sanded off. Making the monogram and vent field are project
  12. This may help as I was able to save to clipboard. https://myhr.tg/14QNa6d4 https://myhr.tg/1LpsmpJl
  13. Try this one https://www.myheritage.com/deep-nostalgia and then where it says upload a photo, get any photo from your own file to enter. Or you can save the Nelson image below if you want to try that one first. Or, go to the home page, click on Family Tree then click on Animate Photos. You can then upload a pic and it will do its thing. You may have to enter your email address and a password to get started.
  14. Alan, You couldn't hide them so let the builder beware, do it right. 😀 Of course, the average viewer would not know a mistake except maybe for something glaring like a broken line or something similar. The members here are another story and would likely spot errors as long as the name, year, and nationality are known. Jan, do you have the name and era of that model?
  15. Mark, If you get into the site, you can just insert any portrait image. I did Nelson, George Washington, and long past relatives. Seeing grandparents that I remember vividly moving and blinking was fantastic, but a bit on the creepy side. I sent the same link to a member here and he had it open right up to Nelson so you may want to give it another try. Free site unless you sign up for the premium package or premium plus which helps in building a family tree. Try this one for Phineas Pett 1570-1647 https://www.myheritage.com/deep-nostalgia/result/1103411981-500004
  16. Discovered a new (for me) website that takes any photo and animates it. I tried it with a portrait of Horatio Nelson and got what you can see on the attached. Spooky, but interesting. https://www.myheritage.com/deep-nostalgia/result/1103411981-500002
  17. Making the cannon and carriages is what I have often gone to while the glue dries. Knees may require a bit of field fitting so should wait. The spacing between deck beams may vary so the horizontal knees will vary in their fore and aft length. The vertical knees will vary with the lay of the inside planking, plus some are canted. For vertical knees at least, it is often a good idea to made card templates to get a perfect fit, then use the template as your guide for cutting out the knee itself.
  18. As posted above, depends a lot on the wood. Castello and Buxus are fantastic for this purpose but there are no doubt others. There is no need to make laminated pieces. If you want to truly aggravate yourself consider the following. I was going to make knees from crooks as was done in full scale and collected hundreds of pruned pieces from an apple orchard near our home and debarked them and let them dry. As they were so small they were ready in a few months. They were the best way to go for strength but took so much work that in the end it was just not worth it as this is a
  19. Hi Don, It depends, as seems to be usual. Often the wing transom had a tenon that sits in a mortise on the aft side of the fashion piece rather than on top. Keep in mind that Steel is 1805 and Discovery is 1789 so Steel may not necessarily apply to Discovery. I don't know one way or the other, hopefully some member has contemporary information on this. The first drawing below shows the wing and other transoms with mortise and tenon for each joining on the aft side of the fashion piece. It is a bit difficult to see the wing transom as the wales are dark but the wing transom an
  20. Hi Christian, Three mm moulded is about 8.5 inches at your scale which is about double what I am used to seeing. With this dimension plus the thickness of the planking inboard and outboard, the cap rail would be about 14 inches wide or more . Is this correct for your St. Philippe? I like the heaviness of these top timbers from a modeling stand point as they can easily break when at scale (I speak from experience and many curse words have ensued when it happens) but it may not look right. I am not saying it is wrong, but it is just something different than what I have seen for Britis
  21. Brett, may be worth a try, but I agree with Alan, cutting the gap so the planks are all the exact length to fit snuggly into the rabbet of the stem and stern post seems nigh impossible. I just can't see this working, and if it doesn't, all the planking would have to come off and be redone with the tried and true method of planking after the stem and stern posts are in place. Same thing for the keel. The garboard strake should fit snugly into the rabbet of the keel so if you plank and then sand the bottom flat there will be nothing left of the edge of the garboard to fit into the rabbet.
  22. Looking good Cri Cri!!! Will there be a wing transom to hold the stern timbers or do you plan to glue them to the bulkhead? I use the wing transom, but the added strength of gluing to the aft most bulkhead as well, like you are showing, seems like a very good idea. What is the moulded dimension of the frames at the bulwarks? The reason I ask is that they seem to be quite thick. I would think they would be in the range of 3 to 4 inches, where the top timbers would be if were framed versus POB. At a scale of 1:72, these look to be about 24 inches moulded so the cap rail woul
  23. Stem pieces and knee of the head are done. Again, I printed the pieces on label paper then cut them out with a scalpel and stuck them on castello that was first planed and thickness sanded to the maximum thickness required on the assembly. Once sized the pieces were rough cut then carefully sanded to the edge of the paper templates. Once all was assembled the assembly was tapered vertically and horizontally. The slot for the gammoning has been rough drilled and will be finished with files. This is one of those times I would prefer to have a mill but hopefully sooner than later will go a
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