jmorgan11
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Everything posted by jmorgan11
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Jack, Thanks again. I have two jars of Model Expo Primer so I'll give that a shot. I haven't tried thinning them with water yet, only Model Master Acryl thinner which is "ok" but expensive. -Jesse
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Thanks for all the replies. I figured since I've been airbrushing for a long time, albeit on plastic, I figured it was the medium I was airbrushing onto causing me the issue. Jack, I'm going to take your advice and do the "prime, sand, prime, sand" routine. Do you have a recommendation on the primer type (acrylic, enamel or lacquer)? I've stripped my model down to the bare wood. I just need to do some sanding and repair a broken part, and I'll be ready to prime. Thanks, Jesse
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Hello all, Here's my problem: when I airbrush bare wood, I'm getting a lot of fuzz on the model. So, here's the particulars: I'm working on the Midwest Sharpie Schooner. The wood in the kit is basswood. Before painting, I sanded everything very smooth with 600 grit sandpaper. I'm very familiar with airbrushing. I've been airbrushing plastic models for over 10 years. I've tried both Model Master Acryl paints and Model Shipways paints with the same results: fuzz on the model. The fuzz is not dust being kicked up. It's definitely from the wood. So, am I missing a step before painting? I should I be sealing the wood first? Hand brush primer and then use the airbrush? Any help? Thanks, Jesse
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Mike, I like your build. It looks great. Couple of things though: 1.) Next time you do planking, I think the perferred method is to affix one plank to one side and then repeat on the other. I believe the intention is to avoid warping the hull along the long axis. 2.) Here's a tip a learned about filling hairline gaps between planks. Rub a little white glue into the gap between the planks and then lightly sand the area. The resulting sanding dust will adhear to the glue and make the seam almost invisible. I wouldn't try it on any gaps larger than 1/32. I'll be following your build. Thanks for sharing. -Jesse
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Floyd, I have nothing. After the mold fears, my wife said everything must go.
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Having worked with explosives for 8 years, I can say a controlled explosion would be very dangerous. The danger is not from the explosion. The danger is not all the explosives on board actually detonating which is probably what would happen. Some explosive items would be thrown through the air and land who knows where, without detonating. That makes clean up a real problem. How do I know this? Been there, done that (but not at this scale). When you see EOD and Engineers do a mass controlled explosion, the explosives are back together for sympathetic detonation. On a ship like this, that wouldn't be the case. -Jesse
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That's an incredible offer, Floyd. Please let me know what you have and what you want for it. Thanks a bunch, Jesse
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I appreciate the offers, guys, but, as Randy said, the whole kit probably has mold spores. Everything smells kind of musty in the box, therefore, the wife says toss it. Well, lesson learned for me. I'll just move onto another kit. My wife and I just got back from Atlantic City celebrating our 15 year wedding anniversary. As we were walking the beach, I noticed the life guards rescue boats look just like the Midwest Sea Bright Dory, lettering and all. So, I'm going to build that for her. Thanks for all the help, Jesse
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One more thought.... If I do remove the wood planking, won't there be residual glue on the bulkheads that will affect the adherence of new glue? Even if I sand the bulkheads, won't there still be some glue left in the pores of the wood? How do you I get around this? -Jesse
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Thanks, Tom. I hear ya. My wife already said the model has to go. She's too freaked out about it especially with the kids. I don't blame her. I was just hoping there was some way to kill the mold and save the ship. Just realized this became a real SOS. If not, then I'll cut my loses and move on. Thanks again. -Jesse
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Thanks for the replies, guys. I don't think removing the wood will be an option. The planking is about 3/4 done and all the planks were attached with wood glue and nails. I think I would probably damage the model if I try to remove the planks. I don't think the color is in the wood primarily because each blotchy area is round. It's darker in the center and lighter around the edges, like a bulls eye. Also, these areas didn't show up until after the wood was soaked. -Jesse
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Hello all, I'm working AL's Harvey. I bought the kit on Ebay and I'm sure the actual kit is 10 - 15 years old. I noticed a slight, musty smell when I opened the box for the first time. Anyway, I'm currently applying the first layer of planking. I'm using the normal "soak and bend" routine. I've noticed after the wood dries some small, greenish, blotchy areas. I'm thinking this might be mold. Does anyone have any ideas what I should do about this? I'm afraid I might have to throw the kit away and I really don't want to do that but I am concerned about my health and my family's. Thanks, Jesse
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