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LED

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Everything posted by LED

  1. LED
    I'll try the Model Air on the next kit - which will likely be the 1:700 scale HMS Ajax. Keepin' with the theme 😄 The only issue is that I found a Model Color chart for naval ships in the various theaters of war: https://app.box.com/s/2hz3x8hp57kqk8qqyu40y0lndkdnc696 (I actually use an older version of this map that doesn't have as much color mixing) I have yet to find a similar color map for Model Air. Plus, my hobby shop only recently has started stocking lots of Model Air. I guess I'll have to use the Mark I Eyeball to do the color matching for me
  2. LED
    Well, got the superstructure wood down. This weekend I'll be attaching the platforms. And, ugh... a bunch of PE. Pray for me. Building the catapults... I had a bit of repair on the bridge deck wood, it was a little too big and the center cross piece escaped me. The repair looks ok - I'm glad I saved the surrounding wood as I pulled the deck from the backing.
  3. LED
    I think that is a great level of weathering... The ships would get beat up during WWII, but I don't think any captain would want an unreliable rust bucket to fight a war in. I've been helping a World of Warships streamer with a stream topic: Play the most 'decorated' ships in the game for a stream. I don't think HMS Kelly (who I read about while doing the research) makes that list 😄. She never shirked her duty, but she is living proof that the only luck in war is bad luck. Yowser.
  4. LED
    Ok, had to put a nice, even coat of paint on the major superstructure elements and the walkways I am going to place on them this weekend. The Eclipse is a very nice airbrush. It lays a very balanced paint pattern in light coats. I'm thinking of applying a clear coat to the superstructure prior to applying the wood deck - will that matter??? Anyway, at least she looks like a ship now:
  5. LED
    Many thanks, Alan... I couldn't figure out the rhyme or reason for the color coding - so, maybe it is what you say - "nothing". Too funny. Think long, think wrong 😄
  6. LED
    Well, I thought I would have a nice entry with regards to placing the wood deck on the superstructure parts... However, (comma - and, there always is a comma) Those deck overlays are very complex with lots of very little pieces that have to be meticulously removed. Took lots of time for me... I noticed that the paint on those superstructure parts is less than ideal. I think my previous air-brush may have been abbey-normal, my current one seems to have a nice and even spray pattern. I hope this kit doesn't turn into a complete paint blob. We shall see. And, I like to work with natural light when painting and perhaps while placing the wood overlays. Thus, tonight I will mask the superstructure parts in prep for painting, tomorrow I'll paint, and then I'll give it a day to two to dry before applying the wood deck. All in all, coming along pretty good. I just wish I hadn't been so bull headed about my former air-brush. It is known to be a good one, but mine rarely gave me a good finish. I switched to an Iwata Eclipse because my model shop has all the little parts and accessories for it. It is a very nice and substantial brush. Much to like...
  7. LED
    Splendid work, Alan... I picked up a Flyhawk Deluxe HMS Ajax that the model shop could not sell because it wasn't shrink wrapped. I got it for a song and a prayer - and, nobody appreciates my singing. It has everything!!! Including a bunch of PE 😐 Anyway, the instructions seem to be color coded - but, I cannot figure out what it is all about. I see they did the same with your kit. Some parts are in red, others green, and so forth. What did all that turn out to be?
  8. LED
    Honestly, I have been pretty terrified of doing this. I mean, it is a One-And-Done process to apply a wood deck to a ship model. In the end, the ArtWox deck is extremely well built. It is strong enough to be manageable, the laser cutting was precise and defined enough to be stable, and the fit was absolutely perfect. Finally, it is not completely a One-Shot deal. Because of the stability of the product you actually can adjust it on placement. Just liked this photo better. Kinda looks like the start of a ship getting fitted out. Also, shows a bit of a problem. I was quite slick when I painted the hull. I lightened the color just a bit to present a bit of sun weathering. Now, I'm paying for that. I have to repaint a little of the hull and cannot get the color matched, so, I think I'll end up redoing the hull grey - hopefully, I'll get away with just doing that...
  9. LED
    I followed David's guidance to remove the unwanted wood and leave the actual overlay on the backing. He mentioned to save the remainder wood to the back of the overlay as potential repair material. The ArtWox deck was laser cut quite well - I had no problems with either the large pieces or the pieces I had to pick out: If there is a negative to this technique it is that it can become difficult to know if you have trimmed and picked what you needed. The wood you have placed on the back obviously blends into the wood you are working on. All in all, I think this will be a good idea.
  10. LED
    It's been a LONG time. Life happens. Not bad thangs, but... And, sometimes - sometimes for very long times - you just ain't got the modelling bug... And, then, It happens... This will be my first wood deck. David, of 'David's Ships' YouTube site has a GREAT presentation regarding the application of a wood deck. He covers a lot of territory. He discusses potential mistakes with lessons learned. The following video covers the wood deck installation for his wonderful HMS Hood build playlist: Wow, that's huge, whateva' So, my first photo in forever. The 1/350 ArtWox deck and the hull of the 1/350 Academy Admiral Graf Spee: I have to say that cutting the deck from the backing has been a breeze so far. ArtWox has done a great job to this point. Pray for me, this is a one way, one shot deal😔
  11. LED
    Amazing work @king derelict Amazing... My damn cat ate the superstructure of a HMS Nelson. I was down, flat on the bed, with two shoulders with rotator cuff injuries. Heard a cat jump up on my modeling bench and then the dreaded chomping noises. Lucky thing was that the kit was kinda crapola. Weird build, poorly detailed, and that dark north sea grey-blue of the home fleet washed out the details that were there. So, all was good.
  12. LED
    Looking good... Personally, I find most folks overweather their decks. My Graf Spee won't look like some dude stained each plank with whatever was in the closet at the time. I think they would be a bit pickier. I think your deck job is fantastic. My Graf Spee will incorporate my first PE railing. Looking at how they are installed via YouTube, I don't think it will be a horrid process. Just measure twice, and install/glue stanchion by stanchion. At least that's the plan!!!
  13. LED
    Wow, I see what @Brett Slater was talking about. Not much plastic remains of the superstructure 😊. Love the work on those chaser guns. It's odd they weren't built into the kit, they are so unique. The Emden is an awesome topic. I wonder if there is a WWI Scharnhorst kit out there... I'm restarting my Graf Spee build again - hopefully the brother-in-law won't be visiting soon - for a month. Ugh. Great guy, but... Anyway, maybe I'll join you and @king derelict with the famous ships of WWI theme. I was going to build the Prince of Wales, but I also have a cool 1/700 scale Derfflinger, Luetzow, Zeppelin combo kit from Takom I hear Takom kits are a bit complex, but I think I can handle it after looking over the sprues.
  14. LED
    That is a beautiful build. And, I would love to see an Iron Duke. You would then be 'well' on your way to completing the 'Battle of Jutland' scenario we always dream of 😁
  15. LED
    Nicely done. Your deck looks great and covering it now with a wood deck would be a shame. I don't think it can be improved on... That is an awesome clock. I mean, I thought it had to be some kind of clock - but, it is so unique.
  16. LED
    Watching the build right now on your Twitch channel.
  17. LED
    Love the doggie cam @Scott Crouse For those who want to watch him build real-time, here is his Twitch channel: https://www.twitch.tv/bartbandy Side view watching and listening to the most recent VOD. Kinda relaxing after coming close to tossing my stuff out the window 😄
  18. LED
    Gonna start poking around on the Iwatas - they have quite a selection. Many thanks @Landlubber Mike and @vossiewulf
  19. LED
    Thanks for the offer Scott. The problems may be about those issues you mentioned, but I have taken as much of the variance out of it that I can. My model shop has a great Vallejo Model Colors selection and a very good Vallejo Model Air selection so I'm kinda married to those paints. I am now using the Vallejo thinner and airbrush improver. I mix the Vallejo Model Color paints to about 50/50 with the thinner. Pretty religious about the cleaning. I may be too rough on the needle/nozzle though. The Badger I used 40 years ago was built of metal and could be dropped, stepped on, and strangled to within an inch of it's life - maybe this one is more fragile. I am going to go to a modeling workshop at the Hobby Shop later this month to see what I see. I'm starting to think, however, that the airbrush I have may actually have a defect in it. Anyway, I noticed your signature pointed to Twitch. I just followed you 😄. That might be a good way to connect.
  20. LED
    Nicely done, Alan... Can I ask the brand/model of the airbrush you are using. From earlier in the thread it is apparent you are using Vallejo paints. I am having a heck of a time with that grey (I think you are likely using 70.990 Light Grey). My airbrush seems to like to spatter and separate with it. Looking to upgrade...
  21. LED
    Ok, picking up the 'Bag of Bones' again. I learned to hate my Badger 350. There has to be something wrong with the airflow. All three of the tips seem to have the same problem - the paint on large surfaces seems to speckle and be inconsistent when it isn't speckling. Any ideas out there for a replacement airbrush would be appreciated. This brush is killing my desire. It doesn't seem to have much of a problem on smaller models or parts, but yowser. The paint went on a bit better. At least it is didn't separate and it is smoother. The only speckling is on the deck and the wood deck will cover that. And, this time, as noted, the paint did not separate so the raised details that will be visible after placing the deck will look fine. Anyway, here are the bigger assemblies in 'Bag of Bones' paint drying format for your viewing pleasure: Also, I am serious about recommendations for an airbrush replacement. I enjoy the 350 when it works, but when it doesn't I want to throw it and the model against a brick wall...
  22. LED
    That MIG Ultra Glue does the trick. After watching how 'Dave' is attaching his PE to the Hood in the YouTube Hood build, I decided to give it a try. David is using heavy super glue because of the slow(ish) drying time and then fixing it into place with extra thin super glue. The thick glue gives him time to move the part around, the thin glue locks it into place. I was all set - but my thick glue managed to become set in the bottle over time. So, no bueno. Had to try the Ultra Glue. It works great for the purpose of a slow drying fix. It dries clear and it doesn't seem to be nasty on the residue. Then, I lock the part into place with the extra thin. We shall see. My first PE is a bit messy, but starting to get the hang of it. I haven't painted any of it yet. Again, we shall see.
  23. LED
    Beautiful job weathering that wood deck. My build will be lightly weathered because the Admiral Graf Spee did not take fire till the 'Battle of River Plate'. I am either going to model her as she left Germany or as she looked before she sported the bow wave and the second darker grey camo pattern. I love the bow wave, but that is how most model her and I hanker to be different... Anyway, if you could summarize the techniques you used to weather those wood decks I would be forever in your debt. I have never implemented a wood deck and paralysis by analysis is starting to take hold🤪
  24. LED
    The build is going slow, but reasonably well. Got a growing bag-of-bones awaiting sanding, puttying, priming, and painting. Since you all like photos, here is a sample of the contents in that old bag: So exciting. I'm actually in a bit of a holding pattern. The wife noticed that I was eying some nice barrels for the 150mm secondaries and some brass masts. She thought that would make a nice gift. Man, I want the barrels but I NEED the masts. I break masts like crazy. I have never had a mast survive my ten thumbs. So, that was nice of her. I also kinda glammed some paint that is supposed to be a match for the metal decks. That wasn't too important when I started, but research indicates that the Admiral Graf Spee sailed out of Germany with Hellgrau 50/51 pre-war colors, got a camo pattern on the superstructure with Hellgrau 51, and later sported the dark grey used on the steel decks in other superstructure patterning. At the end, she was given the bow wave. So, now there is a chance I will need a better match for the steel deck grey since I may be using it for more of the ship. That decision is coming soon...
  25. LED
    Man, the Hood is a stunning ship. Look at her. You are doing her justice... 🫠 While it may not be anything you can use, there is a YouTube modeler videoing his 1/350 build of the Trumpeter Hood. His site is "David's Ships". Even though he is building to a different scale, a different manufacturer, and likely has different goals there might be a tidbit in there that is useful. I know his build series has been helpful in my Graf Spee. Helped me organize things for my most adventurous project yet. I kinda like how he discusses mistakes and how to fix them. I know you won't make any, but...

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