Frank Burroughs
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This 1961 plastic kit is preowned. It cost $115 plus shipping. This was quite the deal. The first run of a model injection mold is the best. From there on each casting is sloppier. This model is a first run with few missing parts. The History The Confederate Navy needed ships to run blockades and raid enemy merchantmen. A British shipyard began building Hull 290 to be a merchantman. The ruse lasted just long enough to beat the authorities. It slipped down the river to sea a day before the raid. A ship was waiting to arm Hull 290 at sea. “ CSS Alabama was a screw sloop-of-war built in 1862 for the Confederate States Navy. It was built in Birkenhead on the River Mersey opposite Liverpool, England by John Laird Sons and Company. Alabama served as a successful commerce raider, attacking Union merchant and naval ships over the course of her two-year career. She was sunk in June 1864 by USS Kearsarge at the Battle of Cherbourg outside the port of Cherbourg, France. “ Wikipedia The ship was primed with auto primmer. Tamiya acrylic paint is being used on this model. The next model will use Citadel acrylic paint. It is more expensive than what is used now. However, it is made for hand painting. I will probably never invest in airbrushing.
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Excellent advice all! Good to know the program is not as important as scaling the printer. Another question is about storing the prints. Right now my prints are of masts and yards. They will fit in a regular binder. Will later prints of scratch built ships also fit in a regular binder? No place to put up drawings in the house. However, the garage could fit a drafting table in the future.
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Is spraying the deck after attaching it to the plastic deck better than brushing on by much? Which semi-gloss varnish is preferred?
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Epson EcoTank 4-color A4 Ink Tank Printer L121 just bought off Ebay. I wonder what program gives a 1:1 print. LibreOffice draw and GIMP are my graphic programs. Right now masts and spars are what is being made. Later much more will be drafted. So, what program to print from the gives me an accurate print? ps. You guys have to stop me from spending money. I private tutor when money gets low. Do you know how mean people get when they hate math!
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Of course had to buy a second french ship model. the French Steam and Sail Paddlewheeler L'Orenoque Mamoli | No. MV23 | 1:100 fits into the era interested in. Please, do not recommend an Italian ship model book. I can not afford the models.
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Will there be a time when you bundle them? Still working through vol 1-60 usb stick. When vol 61- ? is offered I'll buy it! Fantastic resource.
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Hismodel replied promptly: The best course of action is as follows: put together all plastic parts of deck paint all parts protruding from the deck, such as hatches, etc. then glue the wooden deck to the plastic base only after that, glue the deck and hull together
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Since I know so little of what can be achieved, a book on the art of model building gives me a notion of what can be. I have enough tools and kits to start the journey . That said, just bought French Steam and Sail Paddlewheeler L'Orenoque Mamoli | No. MV23 | 1:100. Goes with the french book, right!
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Being new I could be wrong. I thought that the 1969 model has pieces not in the earlier model. These pieces would also be in the 2017 box. The mold being used time and time again is a problem. So, I wonder what is the best 1/96 plastic kit of the Cutty Sark to buy!
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The wooden deck add on was bought and shipped. It will take until May 7th to show up. Too long to wait! Can I place the plastic deck in now, then add the veneer deck when it comes?
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According to Scalemates, the 1969 model added new parts. That is enough for me to consider the 2017 model. That will be my first new ship model. All up till now have been pre-owned. A couple pieces have been lost or broken. Not enough for regrets on buying used.
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As it goes now one bedroom is my office/plastic kit assemble/painting. The other bedroom is wood kit assemble/sanding/mast-yard making. And then there is an empty garage. My thought is to put scratch builds and power tools out there. Montana gets cold in the Winter and the snow between my house and garage too deep for my wheelchair. So, I can only use that space from late Spring to early Fall. So, paint and glues have to be brought in for the Winter. What about wood stock, cut parts and the scratch model? Do these need to be brought in out of the cold also? If I could drywall and heat my garage, I would! But that would mean no more tools, books and models.
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The Art of Shipmodeling - Bernard Frolich This arrived today. Fantastic ! This something to aim for.
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"Remaking the World: Modeling in Human Experience" by James King looks interesting. Used for $42
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Allrightythen, the wood and tools are here. The grooved board jig is being made this weekend. My question now is do I copy the plastic parts? Or, do I use these measurements: Taken from "CSS Alabama: Builder, Captain, and plans" by Charles Grayson Summersell I think the latter is the better choice.
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This book falls into the ships that interest me to build. Just have to have it.
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- ironclad
- Confederate Navy
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Welcome to the site. Looking forward to the delivery for my CSS Alabama build. You did a great job helping me out!
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don't know how I missed that link, thanks
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Am I missing how to read the journal vol 65 to vol 68?
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Radimir's Hismode, is top notch. He attached a bunch of instructions in a couple emails. A have three more plastic kits for him to outfit in the future. CSS Alabama is a joy to paint. A few firsts for me have me excited. Forming the mast and yards out of wood is perhaps the hardest. Ratlines should be easy, but time consuming. I did ordered the sails from Hismodel. Making them look real should be fun. The books about the ship are interesting. I want to do both wood and plastic kits and scratch builds. Now that the confederate ship is a going concern, Model Shipways Shipwright 3 Kit Combo Series dory starts. In for a penny, in four a pound
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replacing plastic mast and spars
Frank Burroughs replied to Frank Burroughs's topic in Plastic model kits
"Ship Modeling from Stem to Stern" by Milton Roth
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replacing plastic mast and spars
Frank Burroughs replied to Frank Burroughs's topic in Plastic model kits
Found this. this would be a 90 degree channel what would i use 45 degree channels for?
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