Geordy Aidan
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Posts posted by Geordy Aidan
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I have now put the structures that support the fore and stern castles in place. I decided to open the windows up and then looked at the doors.
I have to say that I do not like the etched brass doors so I decided to make some of my own. They don't look too bad the next question is what colour should they be? I suppose that is anyone guess really.
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I have seen the posts on the method that you suggest and it looks like they go through lots of toothpicks 🙂
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- DonSangria and Scottish Guy
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All of the 60mm strips are now in place an I have given it a couple of coats of varnish to protect the surface. I did mask the areas where the bulwarks will be glued across the deck. The big question is do I show the treenails in the deck. My thinking at the moment is no because I feel at this scale they would not be seen as they are so small. What do others think?
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I have now fitted stiffeners as well as some blocks at the bow and the keel now looks straight. I decided to do a 4 but shift pattern for the planking and cut the planking into 60mm strips and used a 5B pencil to blacken one edge of the planks. I will fix the planks in place with PVA. I will post photos once the glue has dried.
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Thanks for the advice. Having spent nearly a week on fitting the frames and stiffeners along the length of the false keel I don't feel that I have anything to loose by pushing ahead. If it does not work then I will contact them in which case I would need all of the pieces from A1 to A18. I will let you know how it goes.
I do think that we modelers would be better served if OcCre used a 5 ply with all of the laminates being the same thickness something like the 3mm ply used on some of the the Caldercraft Models.
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Having put a a model of HMS Supply to one side because I was constantly being asked by the family how the Beagle was going. I opened the packaging and I have to say that whilst my initial reaction was this looks OK BUT on closer inspection I have discovered my first major problem The False Keel has a twist to it! That is not good especially as these models are not cheep.
So I have soaked the false keel in boiling water then clamped it between two pieces of 20 mm MDF and left it to dry for three days. When I removed it it still has a warp towards the stem forward of frame 4 and a twist towards the stern aft of frame 10.
I am attaching the frames and gluing them using Lego Blocks to hold them square and then adding stiffeners in at deck level. I will add larger blocks to fill in the voids forward of frame 4 and aft of frame 10.
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Thanks for your comment Chris. I think it is finished and have put it to one side for the moment. There are things like the covers for the mortar which I just lashed to the bulwarks. Where would they have been stored in action. I also did not rig any of the tackle for the carronades but did fit the breaching.
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- AJohnson, Mr Whippy and GrandpaPhil
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- AJohnson, GrandpaPhil and Mr Whippy
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- Mr Whippy and GrandpaPhil
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- GrandpaPhil, Mr Whippy and AJohnson
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This is my first build. I bought the model second hand with the keel and bulkheads all glued in place. The had the false keel stem and stern also glued in place. I was lucky as I also purchased HMS Supply, in the same state as Convulsion, together with HM Bomb Vessel Grando, HMS Bounty and Albertros together with lots of tools and equipment.
I started the build in February and did not take any photos until I had finished the second planking.
- AJohnson, GrandpaPhil and Mr Whippy
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HMS Beagle by Geordy Aidan - OcCre - 1:60 scale
in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1801 - 1850
Posted
Doors and windows are now in place. I have also glued the poop deck and the deck of the forecastle in place.