MBerg

Interesting. Are there particular sealers for that sort of thing or just any old varnish? (I must've been typing my reply when you posted) Thanks, I'm trying this. I feel like I remember reading someone mentioning they wish they had - maybe that was you. No chance to get a log in tonight, but the false stem is finished, cleats are in - though need to be trimmed. I played around with a bit of paint, ended up dumping a little bit more out than I meant to so after painting on some scrap, I may have gotten a little excited and started a thin coat on the inner planks before I put the riser on. Can expect a log sometime early tomorrow.

Thank you - great info. So I do need to dilute it, good to know. I'll look around for some of those trays, I was thinking plastic, but i like the idea of the metal one. I have a Michael's not terribly far away that may have it. Very good point. See, that didn't even cross my mind. I hope to get the side cleats on, trim and sand the false stem and likely test some painting this evening. Free time is running thin these days as summer draws nearer, but whatever I can get done... "No one should be discouraged, who can make constant progress, even though it be slow." - Probably Plato Will definitely need to check that out. I've always been an enthusiast and finally flew a Cessna 172 for the first time a couple months ago.

I appreciate the comments! and yes, I think learning something new is a big motivator as well. I didn't get much time last night, but managed to get the false stem glued on. I noticed other builds used the left over from the cleats, which I could not find for the life of me. I assume I placed it somewhere in the void during the month hiatus and reorganizing the space. Luckily, I have a batch of 1/32 x 1/8 that I got for the lobster trap so I used that. Seems a bit thicker than the cleat strips, but that just means more sanding. No concerns there. I'm starting to think ahead to the side cleats, seat risers, and painting which is posing a couple questions. 1. My painting plan was to just mix some up from the bottle, stick it on a plastic sheet and lay it down thin and in multiple coats - my question is this: Should I be planning something different? I've seeing a lot of build logs with modelers not so happy with painting results, and help topics on painting. I thought it was fairly straight forward, but now I'm thinking that's just my ignorance showing through. 2. It seems some very light sanding may be necessary after the first coat. My thoughts don't follow the instructions, but is there any reason why I shouldn't paint and sand the inner planks between the frames before placing the seat risers? Surely that would make things easier.... or is my ignorance now starting to create a pile over here? I find when new to something, there can be a fine line between 'critical thinking' and "Oh! so that's why they do it like that!" Any advice is appreciated!

Some of these aren't after fully sanding, but it doesn't look much different. Thanks for looking, Matt

Log #8 I've made some pretty good progress over the last few days. Planking is complete, although not perfect, it's pretty decent and was a great learning experience. The boat is off the build board; but that was right before bed so I haven't even cut the frames back yet. Some 'questionable' clamping techniques and some not too bad ones: Starting to come together - looking pretty even: Wet bending the final planks: So far everything has fit very nicely. Multiple dryfit checks confirmed the strakes should go on pretty good as well. As I finished gluing the final planks, there was a small issue which I believe was partially caused by the defective laser cut offset in every plank on the port side. Not a massive issue, but I noticed in order to line everything up and match them correctly, the stern end needed a bit of a 'lift' which caused the plank to bend at a weird angle and bow out between a couple frames. Patience, a long period of holding by hand while curing and some diluted glue to get between the planks helped immensely and I was happy with the result. Once confident the glue was cured enough for me to let go, I started inspecting it and noticed the starboard strake was higher than when I initially lined it up. It must've slipped slightly while I was holding it because I made damn sure it looked good when I put it on. In any case, it wasn't terrible, but then it made the uneven rope holes (don't know the nautical name) glaringly obvious. I took about 30 second before I decided this needed to be fixed. I started running alcohol over the seam, praying that it wouldn't release the other board as well since they were both recently glued. I won't get into the details, but I wasn't perfectly happy with how this went. A big lesson learned in terms of giving myself enough time - I put myself into a rushed situation and butchered the inside of the plank a bit. In the end, I was able to pull it back to the first frame and refit it. Much better; however, still not lined up perfectly. I realized I placed the port plank a bit further forward than the starboard plank. I immediately wished those holes were left un drilled so I could line them up manually. After the hack job I did trying to debond part of the starboard side, I decided to wait until further inspection before doing any further damage removing an entire plank. After some thought I realized the unevenness will be less noticeable once the rope is in, and also isn't noticeable unless looking from 'underneath' the boat. On top of that, the breast hook is going to cover it up from the inside. Then I realized the breast hook is also going to hide the damage I caused on the inside of the starboard plank. I will still do the best I can to add some filler and sand it down, but this made me feel better about it I then trimmed the planks, sanded it all down (working on some of the excess glue as well) and was quite happy with the result. I was about to call it quits, but decided to take a crack at removing the building board. It came off about 100x easier than I expected. Really just slid right out as I pressed each frame up 1 at a time from underneath. In hindsight, I should've glued the defective side first and then the 'good side'. Since the entire sheet of port planks had defects, some of my flexibility was lost so I feel it would've been easier to use the good planks to conform to the needs of the bad ones. Finally, I spent so much time and attention making sure the planks were vertically aligned, I failed to make sure they were at the same distance from the front. Honestly, I didn't think this would be an issue since its all trimmed and sanded down, as well as a false stem being added later. Those sneaky holes changed that theory. I'll go ahead and post this, then leave a second post with just pictures of where I ended. Thanks for looking, Matt

Correct. Or, well, will be a lobster trap. Need to pick up a couple supplies to finish it. Back to the dory for now. I think correct. I rewatched (probably for the 10th time) a build video on YouTube posted about a year ago. I only just noticed today that the bottom board sheet had serious wobble on his parts. That would tell me it's more of a laser problem, then a specific product line - especially since we all had it on different sheets. They've been around a long time, maybe their recent quality control has dropped off. Just yesterday I came across a couple year old thread on this forum regarding them and deals with some shady Chinese company so maybe they're going that route. I'll be being a little more cautious when dealing with them.

Thanks! And thank you again for the help through messages. I had a browser tab open to where you made yours. Very helpful, and your idea of using bottle caps to curve the wood worked perfectly!

Warning: This is a bit of a long post that has little to do with the build as it should be. Skip to the last paragraph or two if you just want a update on the build. Okee. Back in business. Sorta. I gotta say, this is not leaving a great first impression of Model-Expo/Model Shipways (same company/related?). The replacement parts arrived today; after a month. I was pretty excited to get back at it just in time for the weekend... An incredibly thin sheet of basswood shipped across the continent in a yellow padded envelope, folded in half. After seeing that, I can't say I was surprised that the sheet was also snapped in half when I opened it. Still hopeful that the parts made it unscathed; it looks like a couple of them broke out of the sheet, but the parts themselves were in tact - good news! Then; hang on... these have the exact same problem in the exact same spots as the sheet they were replacing. Not only was the replacement as bad as the original, it was worse. There were more laser burns and the cuts were bigger and clumsier, and even wavy on multiple lines. What in the world are they doing over there? Maybe they should focus less on selling everything at 50% off and more on running a smooth operation. Did the laser cutter have too much to drink the night before? Why is every other line so shaky? A comparison of the original sheet on the left (nice, smooth, thin, cuts) and the replacement on the right (thick, darker, burned, wobbly) Now I'm in manufacturing; we laser cut 90% of everything we make. The only difference is steel instead of wood. First off, someone is clearly not paying attention with this machine. It badly needs a head adjustment, head replacement; some sort of maintenance. This should be detected during routine maintenance before manufacturing product for a customer, not after. Secondly, manufacturing is not an easy business, mistakes happen, I get it. It's how you handle the mistake that really matters and makes you excel or not. The fact that a defective part was produced, and there was likely zero effort to ensure the same issue wasn't replicated on the replacement is a terrible sign. I'm now thinking they have a corrupted laser file that needs fixing. Either way, I don't work there, it's not my issue to solve. There are rare cases where even when taking precautions, the same thing can happen twice. These guys seem to be quite highly regarded, so maybe that's what happened here. I can still give the benefit of the doubt, but this does not put them in a great spot in my books as is. In any case, there's only one thing to do, and that is move forward. I feel I can overlap some of the error -it's not that big. Scaling up to full size it would probably mean about 1/2" - 1" offset in the planks. Not unnoticeable, but not impossible to work with. Part of the concern is it is the same problem across all three planks. The bevels may be a little tricky to account for properly and lining up the correct starboard side with the incorrect port side may pose some problems. Maybe I will learn something I otherwise wouldn't. I wrote in another post that I ordered the next two boats in the series as a kit (which also came with another dory) as a significant discount so I will have a second shot at this build should I feel the need - hopefully the sheet is correct in that one! I may not post much as I work on the planks, but I will take pictures and expect to keep the build log up to date. I've been working on a lobster trap which I'll likely post more about later. I'll drop a pic of it below so I at least have some positive content in this post I need to sort out what I'm going to do for paint/wash, and netting before I continue to finish this up: Wish me luck!

Thanks for the reply. Since this thing was staring at me while waiting for the parts I went back and started beveling the other planks. Ran some dry fits and ended up increasing the garboard plank bevel as well. I'm feeling better about the bevels than I was before, I'll just need to make sure I pay as much time and attention to the port side when I get there. Believe it or not, I still don't have the replacement sheet. Based on tracking, I'm expecting it to show up either today or tomorrow. Not all bad; the waiting has given me time to pick up a few extra tools, put together a more organized workspace, and read up on tips, historical accuracies, etc. I also caved last night from the Model Expo sales and ordered the next two boats in the shipwright series (the pram and lobster smack). The kit also came with the dory I'm currently working on so it may be interesting to revisit after founding these skills. I also picked up a non-beginner ship for a pretty good price. Up until now I've been rummaging through a plastic bin to grab tools, leaving them in random spots on the table, on a nearby box, chair or floor. This will help keep me focused on the build, rather than searching for a tool I just set down.

Appreciate the last two messages. I think I had to read jaager about six times before I started to figure out what you were talking about, but now I know Steeles a person and even came across a free ebook about naval construction on google books. This gives me a great starting point to get something more realistic and aesthetically pleasing than the instructions. I had some meeting as the office this week so went ahead and plotted a few copies of scale drawings which will help me plan this out and ultimately help track it when I start assembling. Thanks again to all!

Thanks for all the responses. Some great info and things to think about here. Good comments to put it into perspective. My guess is simplicity, but I'm glad I'm not the only one that even with a beginners eye, looked at it and thought 'what the heck?' (or maybe even something a little harsher). As for the boat, I believe it doesn't exist, but is a loose representation of a "Swift 1805 Virginia Pilot Boat". I was thinking along the lines of 120mm planks which would translate to about 20'. Maybe that's too short, but it's a small boat. Interesting and very good to know. This will help me keep the look of 'ridiculousness' to a minimum. That's probably why some of the close ups look so bad, I couldn't put my finger on it, but those butt joints are thick and dark. Very much appreciated. I skimmed through and tihnk I partially have the idea. I'll go back again, I think regardless if I do this now, this would be a great tool to make. Well this just opens up the other can of worms I had in my back pocket. It's laid on a false deck so I think I can 'imagine' the bulkheads wherever I want; however, what would be accurate in that sense? I tried to find info on if the bulkhead spacing would be relatively accurate, or if I pick a different spacing, how would I know it makes sense? I was trying to find info on the Swift 1805 (a Virginia pilot boat?) (kit by Artesania Latina), but I guess some of this stuff is open to interpretation too unless it's an incredibly popular ship with actual plans.

I haven't started the OcCre Polaris yet, but due to a lull in my first build (Lowell dory) I ended up going through the instructions and some build logs. This led down a rabbit hole of historical accuracy, upgrades, etc. Out of everything I looked through, I decided I really didn't want to stick with the included deck layout. That will probably the only change I'll make to the kit when I build this. I'm looking at either 3 or 4 butt shift (I believe those are the correct terms). I found some amazing resources here on how to lay this out and already I've learned loads, but now I'm debating on which route to take to achieve the look. The instructions (and from what I understand, a lot of ship instructions) advise to lay full strips then pencil in the butts. One of the build logs I saw suggested cutting the boards to length and then laying them that way. I love the idea of adding that 'authenticity' to it, but I worry about how much difficulty and room for error it would open up. This ship will be my first time planking a deck so would it be advisable to lay full strips to get the feel for it and go nuts on my next build or is it safe enough of a risk to attempt now? Obviously it's going to boil down to how comfortable I feel, but hearing some opinions and experiences will help immensely with making that call. If I do cut them all down, are there any sort of tips or tricks I should keep in mind? I came across an awesome idea from @hornet post Here. I also have concerns over cutting so many planks equally, and came across a 'chopper ii' but it seemed to have mixed reviews - maybe it's find for just cutting planking.

So maybe model-expo is incredibly busy, but I asked for an update last night and received tracking this morning. Seems the tracking number was 'just' created so I think they forgot about me 🫠 In any case, I started working on the the rolling bevel on the broad and sheer planks. I did a bit of a dry fit and it seems they barely go together. So I have a question regarding the rolling bevel. Do the instructions accurately state "the bevel increases in angle progressively until the edge comes to a point at the end at 45°"? It seems to me, since this roll is only over the span of 3/4" there's barely 1/4" that is actually 45 degrees before it starts to taper into the rest of it. I'm wondering if it would be better to leave a 45 degree bevel for the length of that 3/4" and then roll it. Maybe I'm just overthinking this - idle hands and all. Appreciate any feedback.

Log #7 Since the planking is on hold, I moved all production onto the oars and got them completed over the last couple days. That was a heck of a lot more work than I was expecting... I found the sheet that came on was excessively thick so there was loads of material to remove. Making these is fairly straight-forward, and there's probably not a whole lot of different ways to skin this cat, but I'll make a novel about it anyways. After cleaning up some char (not all - mainly the handle and tip of the blade) I started with some 100 grit paper and put finger pressure just where the loom/body/shaft meets the blade. I found this worked quite well to take off some extra material at the low end of the shaft and a nice taper through to the end. I adjusted my finger location as necessary while constantly checking progress. I then moved to 200 grit as I got close to the desired shape and thickness. Once I had a good rough of the blade, I whittled the shaft down to create a more rounded shape, then went to town with 150grit paper. I would say I ended up with a slightly more oval, then round shape, but that's not a big deal. After the shaft and blades were looking good, I kind of chisel, chopped, sliced out bits of the handle to make it as round as possible. I think I did this differently on each one! I did find that placing it on the edge of a cutting mat (glass in my case) and cutting it length/grain wise after scoring it in from the side worked quite well. I would also note that I put in a new blade after the first two and the remaining two felt much better to handle these precise cuts. I then took a small triangular block with 220 grit wrapped around it and smoothed the handles down as well as the rest of the blades edges until I was satisfied. I was incredibly happy with the end result! Hang on. There's an optional step, or if you're like me; a mandatory step - adding some 'leather' wear strips. I grabbed some brown wrapping paper and cut a rectangular sheet out, wrapped it around an oar to roughly measure the circumference, and cut it down. I was going for 1/4" strips, so I cut one out that I could use as a template to cut the other 4. I tried to do all 4 at once after separating them into individual pieces; this did not work well. I ended up cutting one by one. I found this fairly challenging working with such tiny pieces of paper, but tweezers and a very sharp blade came in handy. The end result after cleaning up the miscuts and shifting pieces, I probably ended up with 3/16" strips. Perfect - instructions say 1/8" - 1/4", split the difference. Now, once again the instructions have a scaled section that's not to scale so I went and printed this page from the PDF. Probably overkill, but I like to be a little more accurate than a little less. A small brush with some glue and tweezers to hold the paper down worked nicely. Once there was enough glue on the paper, I placed the oar on top and rolled it a bit to curl the paper around until one end stuck. I then used my fingers to wrap the rest of it around, making sure it went straight and any excess glue went on my fingers or on the paper - done. These will make a fine edition once the boat is complete. As for the sheet of replacement planks. I haven't been given tracking or anything so I'm not sure when they will show up. Though I fully expect they'll get here long before next weekend. On top of that, I have an incredibly busy work week ahead of me, and then the wife and I are heading to see Les Miserables in Toronto on Friday evening. I was thinking of working ahead and prepping some parts, but I decided I want to stick with the sequence for this build and take my time working on each step purposefully as it's being completed. So with that, this build is on hold until further notice.

Noted. When I unclamped I noted frame #1 was actually pushing it out ever so slightly. I now know it was a mistake to push some of the gaps between the frames in because I caused a bit of an indent just beside frame #1. I'm not entirely sure if I should attempt to fix and if so, how. I may try to sand the high spot down a bit to even it all out. Thank you! and thanks for the tip. I picked up some 1" wood clothes pins that I think will help in the future as well. I realized I never finished your log, and what a coincidence, you made a lobster trap. I was thinking of making one of those. I may dm you for some questions if you don't mind! Maybe a typo? 🤷‍♂️ I'm still waiting on the replacement sheet. Working on the ores. 2 down, 2 to go. I'll post pics when I'm done. I was hoping for the other plank sheet today, but looks like it won't be arriving. Depending on how much time I have, I have have to crack into the Polaris this weekend.

No direct response from Model Expo, but it seems they opened up an order for a replacement sheet since I got a notification this morning. 👍 Good, but also means I'll be putting the planking on hold until that arrives. Log #6 A small update and some notes for later. I may not post much until I get replacements. After messing around I was able to get the plank glued in place. That's some tricky clamping to figure out. I grabbed some bobby pins. Thanks to @JacquesCousteau for that idea; yours was one of, if not my favorite dory build logs. I find caution is needed when using those metal clamps as they're pretty aggressive. The bobby pins aren't quite aggressive enough. My mind is thinking of all sorts of ways to clamp in the future (yes, it's only a bobby pin holding the plank to the step). For this, I collected some extra elastics, bobby pins, and cut up some card stock to combine with scrap wood. Elastics were a pain since they're all different sizes. It'll be best to pick up a few different strengths that can quickly be identified. I mitigated the denting as best I could, but was less concerned with the parts of the frame that will be covered by the seat risers, thwarts, etc. I will correct as best as possible with water after. I was trying to fill some of the gaps with glue/water mix as per instructions, but it didn't work too well. Some gaps were a little larger than I liked, and I wasn't able to close them up with available clamping. I ended up putting on a 5 minute song and holding 4 or 5 spots with my fingers to close the gaps. By the time I let go they were all closed up and pretty solid. 👍 Some thoughts for the future: Alligator clips, heavy duty paper/binder clips. I may try gluing some card stock to the inside of some clips which should help create a softer clamping surface. For the second plank, I may try cutting some elastics, which can be routed through ignoring the building board. They'll only contact the planks and bottom board and then can be tied as loosely or as tightly as needed. Having elastics right around the planks could push it the wrong way so I may try adding some spacers on the inside of the boat to keep that from happening. We'll see how bored I get while waiting for the other planks to arrive. Thinking of creating a crude gauge to help set the height of the second board the same as the first. I swear, the glue doesn't look that messy in person. I guess I have some cleaning up to do.

Will do. Lets see what they say. I figure worst case, most of it will be hidden by the other board on the outside, but it'll be difficult to cover up on the inside. I also have no idea what issues could compound from using these board either. Log #5 I decided to go ahead and start bending the 'good' garboard. I clamped it up, but something didn't seem right - it was too short and the cut angle didn't seem to ride up the stem very straight. I left it for a few minutes but my gut was telling me I needed to deal with this now, not when I'm ready to glue. I took it off and tried fitting it again. This time I overlapped the bottom board quite a bit more and it fit 10x better. I still wanted to make sure everything else appeared right. I noted a bit of a 'pucker' around where it met the stem. It looked like the stem needed more sanding. I removed the board a second time and sanded the stem down more. I also decided to hit the frames a bit more. Then after some finger fumbling with the clamps and elastics it'll sit like this overnight. Whew, into the part that I've been most anticipating as it's the most unfamiliar. Exciting to start the planking. I'm not new to bending wood as I've made a bow before (that's "bow and arrow" bow), but I've never done it with water, or without shaving significant amounts of wood and 'teaching' it to bend over days. We'll see how it goes with Model Expo. I can always work on the paddles, or the OcCre Polaris if it'll be a week or so.

Adding a couple more pictures of the second plank sheet and garboard itself. It's not just the etching that has an issue - the cut lines don't line up on either side of the tab. I tried my best to cut it out as straight as possible. I'll need to think of how I can keep any potential issues to a minimum - might be making use of some wood filler soon if it gets out of hand! I'm now wondering if this entire sheet was a defect since I don't recall seeing this in any other build logs. Any thoughts on how to mitigate would be appreciated.

Ah yes, of course, I do know you're right - I maybe just didn't want to admit it! I read this earlier and you made me started to re-think, I know part of my decision factor to not redo was to avoid making something else worse. I just got back to take a second look at the model now - it actually looks quite good and after checking it with a square block that I didn't have before, and looking at it from many angles. I'm starting to really think it's a very slight angle, mixed with a trick of the eye since the port and starboard frames are staggered. Plus all the other curves and bends and being upside down. I now truly think it will look good once it's planked and released from the building board. I do appreciate your comment, I feel much better about my decision after another look. Also, noted on the alcohol to clean up later. As a build related side note for myself or anyone coming across this later: The instructions for the garboard state the rolling bevel should end in a 45 degree angle. First; I didn't notice until now, but the rest of the bevel does not call for a 45 degree (makes sense since it would be impossible to have both middle and ends as a 45 degree since the etch lines are the same depth. Second; between WP1470-E & WP1470-F (AKA, the two basswood sheets that contain all planking) the etching you're supposed to follow to create the bevel across the entire length of the board is much narrower on one set of planks than it is on the other. I'm betting this is contributing to some builds ending up with uneven sheer planks since one side would overlap less than the other. I'll have to keep this in mind as I work through them. Those crazies over at Model Shipways trying to throw some curve-balls at us beginners!

Last night I spent some time practicing the rolling bevel on the garboard plank, sanding the transom and stem. The OcCre kit showed up on Friday and it had a sanding block in it with various angles and curves. There was a little triangular piece that I used for the plank. What a godsend that was. I should've done something like that sooner. Having a better variation of sanding tools will be a huge help. I throughly enjoyed sanding the stem, transom, planks, etc. It was very satisfying smoothing and refining the wood. Since I went into this hobby not knowing if it'll stick, that was a good sign. The wife had to go into town today so I tagged along and we stopped by Michael's. Unfortunately they've revamped, and don't carry any of the wood, or modeling stuff like they used to, but I got my hands on a 50 percent off x-acto kit with multiple different blade types, some #11 replacement blades and some acrylic stain and wash, and a better quality brush, all on clearance for about 70 percent off. I was hoping to get a small square, more sandpaper, some other adhesives, but it was all only online. I was thinking of making a little lobster trap to either go with this boat or the lobster smack when I get to it. Looks like I'll need to get most things online. I've pretty well decided I'm going to leave the frames as is and hope to get to fitting the planks soon.

Log #4 Almost perfect. Frames re-glued and set in building board with transom holder. A couple were loose so I brushed a bit of water and they tightened right up. Next steps are to bevel them, three at a time. This took a while and sounded terrible on the top - like squeaking. I imagine it's because that char was gunking up my sanding stick incredibly fast. I ended up cutting some strips of 150 grit and holding them on top of the sanding stick as a temporary renewal. I ended up needing to move this step over to my computer desk since the current work area has drawers that don't allow me to clap the building board down. It took a while, but ended up nicely. I sanded a bit more after the pics and also remembered some comments in other build logs about sawdust and glue as a filler so I decided to start collecting the built up dust from this step. Once I was feeling good about it, I did a dry fit with the bottom board. By the time I slid the transom in tightly and looked over to guide the stem in, it was already seated. Everything went together and lined up perfectly, I was shocked. The whole fit could not have felt better, the time lining everything up, sanding, beveling, re-gluing some frames paid off. I was pretty damn proud of it. I thoroughly inspected the whole thing, made sure the frames were centered, vertical, the transom and or stem didn't have twists in them. I barely had to adjust anything. I've been dealing with some health issues which are making me feel incredibly drained and just a sense of malaise. I was exhausted and ready for bed, but was excited to keep going. I removed the board, glued up the bottom of the frames and reassembled. It went together just as smoothly as the first time. I did a quick once over, and added the elastic bands. I then started cleaning up the glue. This is something I need to get a hang of. I either need to be faster, use more water or be more aggressive, but the glue seems hard to deal with at times - it's also awkward angles on this assembly. I managed to smooth or remove any excess glue. Then... whoops; #2 frame is not perfectly vertical. Actually a couple of them are ever so slightly slanted. The glue must've contacted and shifted a couple while I was seating the transom. I removed some bands and tried to lightly pry #2 up, shift it over and glue again; however, it wouldn't budge. I'm sure I could've forced it off, but it was late, I was feeling rough and didn't want to make things worse by breaking something. Wife's birthday tomorrow - I go to bed. I get back to it now, and am trying to assess whether or not I should attempt to re-glue. After removing the bands, it doesn't look as bad, but still has a slant. I think I will put this decision off for a bit longer and work on beveling the garboard.

Very interesting, thanks for the heads up, I'll be following yours as well. Funny, I'm already thinking about such things - my wife has a craft cutter so I was just asking if it could cut wood. I have a few years experience with both 3D and 2D CAD as well. Might be handy one day. I skimmed a bit of Chucks Speedwell post and will definitely be going back, very impressive. Appreciate it.

Very brief update: I just took apart and cleaned up the two frames. Having a bit of experience doing this will no doubt help in the future. Soaking them in a closed container with 95% alcohol for an hour then gently wiggling them apart. I used tweeters and a blade to separate the frames. It worked great, and just needed a bit of scraping to get the rubbery glue residue off. 👍

Log #3 Redoing a couple frame assemblies. I noticed, like others, that the instruction book isn't printed to scale so the frame template doesn't quite line up. With that, I downloaded the PDF and printed it out myself. Had I been at the office this week, I would've used our plotter. Since I'm at home, I had to mess with the settings and the best I got was a hybrid between two pages (since the PDF doesn't have the template as its own separate page). It worked, but you can see in the pic the bottoms of 1, 3, 5 are cut off. I left these to dry just before I went to bed. Well, subconsciously I must've really wanted to take something apart. In the morning, I noticed a couple of the frames were glues very cooked. Assemblies 3 and 5 shown below were the worst. I assembled them into the building board and thought about moving ahead, but decided to redo these two frames - they're now soaking in alcohol. In hindsight, Since the template I printed had the bottom cut off, I feel this contributed to me not lining these two frames up right. They were also the first two frames I put together. For whatever reason, I was more focused on the right angles where they meet the building cross piece than I was making sure the two pieces of frame were flush where they meet. Ultimately, my decision to redo was based on: Aside from #3, these are to have bevels sanded on them - having them so uneven will create a pretty sloppy, staggered bevel. The char isn't a great gluing surface and a lot of it wouldn't be removed when beveling which could compromise the strength and lead to unforeseen issues later. Even though the worst part will be hidden when glued to the rest of the boat, the frames wouldn't be at the correct angle and are closer together than they should be. I didn't want to risk this creating excessive gaps and bends when planking. I'm expecting to get the frames reassembled soon, but I'm playing catch-up with work today, and the wife's birthday is tomorrow so I'll have to play the rest of it by ear. Thank you, druxey for the peace of mind. This also led to my decision to err on the side of caution to redo the frames since they'll directly affect the shape of the bottom board.

Log #2 Attaching the stem and transom. Things are getting a bit wonky. Side note: I was expecting the shipment from OcCre to show up yesterday with a different set of tools & cutting mat. Seems the goofballs at FedEx sent it to France to sit there for a day and a half, then when it landed on this side of the pond, it ended up in NJ instead of Canada. I figured maybe they'd get it to Canada by morning and deliver today, but seems it sat there for 12 hours then shipped south to Tennessee! I can only imagine it's being loaded onto a flight north - hoping it shows up tomorrow - two days late. I'm a little eager to get the extra tools, but I'm definitely having fun with what I have. I didn't realize how time consuming cleaning up all the tiny parts would be. If I can somehow replicate a 1:24 version of myself it may be a bit easier holding them. I'm sure things will be easier once tools, proper wood stations and a hodgepodge of improvised sanding sticks, blocks and sponges are acquired. For now I'm making do by doing with the sanding stick and some extra sandpaper. I found wrapping it around the X-Acto handle works okay for some of the curves, but I'll definitely need something a little better. The instructions suggested using a square edge or right angled wood block. The square I have didn't quite work so I found an old block in the garage, checked the ensure it was square and went to town. The stem went on fairly smoothly. I don't know what I did with the transom knee, but the transom ended up sitting ridiculously crooked (Good thing I dry fit first!). (EDIT: That is, the bottom of the knee where it meets the board wasn't square when I sanded it. So when placing it on the board it tilted the transom off to the side). I couldn't use the right angle block / sanding stick combo anymore since I already glued the transom to the knee and cleat so I ended up eyeballing it flat. That part freaked me out a bit, but I'm happy with the end result after doing it by hand. On top of that, I also noticed that not only was there a bit of a side to side rock in the bottom as mentioned in Log #1 - there is also a 'twist' to the whole thing. I'm not sure how I didn't realize that yesterday. It's fairly minimal and I decided to keep moving along as it may flatten out a little when putting the rock in the bottom on the next step; Aside from that, I'll do the best I can to keep things straight when framing & planking (fingers crossed). In any case, I now have something getting a little less like a surfboard and slightly more like a boat. I finished up by wetting the bottom, laying spacers under each end and placing a stone weight in the middle. The instructions called for 1/8" spacers. I used the frame spacers (1/16" each) and double stacked them on each end note: do not do this if you plan to assemble the frames while this sits as you'll only have 1 spacer. Now to let it dry. The next steps involve the building board and frames which I may start on later tonight.