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tlevine

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About tlevine

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    Female
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    Illinois

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  1.    tlevine reacted to a post in a topic: WELCOME to new sponsor INTER-ACTION Hobbies
  2.    tlevine reacted to a post in a topic: Chris Watton and Vanguard Models news and updates
  3.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Swan Class by Stuglo - 1:48
  4. tlevine
    I can't answer your question but looking at the pictures it appears that the fourth frame in is tilted starboard.
  5.    Larry Cowden reacted to a post in a topic: 18th Century Longboat by BobF - Model Shipways - 1:48 - Tri-Club
  6.    uncarina reacted to a post in a topic: Newbie with a few tool questions....
  7.    EricWilliamMarshall reacted to a post in a topic: Half Hull Planking Project
  8.    tlevine reacted to a post in a topic: Swan Class by Stuglo - 1:48
  9.    tlevine reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Sphynx by Alex M - Scale 1/48 - English 20 Gun Frigate as build 1775
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  11.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Professional Building Slip - Hobbyzone
  12.    RichardG reacted to a post in a topic: Professional Building Slip - Hobbyzone
  13. tlevine
    Why not make your own? In my opinion, the markings on the vertical support and base are too broad and too far apart to give more than "eyeball" accuracy anyway.
  14.    tlevine reacted to a post in a topic: US Brig Oneida by rlb - The Lumberyard - (POF) 1:48 scale - 1809 Lake Ontario Warship
  15.    dvm27 reacted to a post in a topic: Swan Class by Stuglo - 1:48
  16.    druxey reacted to a post in a topic: Swan Class by Stuglo - 1:48
  17.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Swan Class by Stuglo - 1:48
  18. tlevine
    Keep going. Your skills will continue to improve with practice and patience. Whenever I look at one of my models, all I see are the flaws, not the overall beauty in the end result and the joy (frustration/angst) of its construction.
  19. tlevine
    Thanks for looking in everyone. Yes, Greg, those fashion pieces gave me fits. As I recall, I made them four times. Hopefully the starboard side won't take as long!
  20. tlevine
    I have finally finished installing the rivets on the port side. As these would have been hand forged, I used square copper wire fit into a size 77 hole. After all the wires were inserted, the hull looked like a porcupine on a bad hair day. In the photos, I have started to flatten the heads using a flat file and rotary sanding disc on the Dremel. Once all the heads were flattened, I finished up with 400 grit sandpaper. Once the sanding and filing was completed, I put a coat of Watco's on the finished side. After both sides are completed I will add a second coa
  21. tlevine
    Bite your tongue, JD. Maybe next time. 🤔
  22. tlevine
    Oh, we are all a little nuts.
  23. tlevine
    It is wonderful hearing from you. Sorry to hear of your real life problems. Wishing you the best in 2021. Hopefully you will be able to resume Kingfisher soon.
  24. tlevine
    It has been a while since the last post. Putting all the bolts in the planks is a right royal pain in the you-know-where. At this point I am half-way through one side. Once the side is done, I will put up some photos.
  25. tlevine
    It isn't the first time and it certainly won't be the last! 😁 Seriously, Stephen, I am more than happy to answer any questions about the half-hull kit. Let me also encourage you to join the Guild. The quarterly Journal is a good source of modeling information as well as maritime history. And as Ryland says, members receive a discount on all the products in the store. But the Guild is much more than that. It is an organization comprised of like-minded individuals who want to promote and enhance our hobby of model ship building.
  26. tlevine
    Take a look at this post to show you how to set up a build log, Richard.
  27. tlevine
    Richard, where is your build log?
  28. tlevine
    Bob, I never said boiling. I said low heat. It heats the saucepan and the water adds weight to prevent tipping. Back when I was a teenager I used a curling iron all the time...on my hair. Got burnt more times than I care to remember. But we all have our unique techniques.
  29. tlevine
    Might I suggest various diameter sauce pans instead of the rolling pin. It is much easier to secure the plank to the rim of the sauce pan with clamps or bull-dog clips than to a solid surface, such as the rolling pin. This works well for me. 1. Secure the end of the plank to the rim of the sauce pan. 2. Put a few inches of water into the pan and put the pan on low heat (this will warm the plank without much risk of getting burnt). 3. Gently bend the plank around the pan with one hand while using a hair dryer in the other hand to supply more heat and airflow. 4. Overbend the plank to comp
  30. tlevine
    Your water stain is probably a glue stain. If so, it has most likely soaked into the wood. Why do you heat the plank after gluing? Is it possible to remove that plank without damaging the surrounding planks? If you used white or yellow glue, isopropyl alcohol will dissolve the glue securing the planks to allow you to remove and replace them.

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