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tlevine

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  1. But DA talks about using a thicker piece of wood and carving it to the correct shape. This is what I typically do. With a little bit of patience and the correct mandrel, you can bend any stripwood into a right angle.
  2. The domain name has expired for Ship Ahoy. I also have the replacement motor for the Preac and love it.
  3. Try this... Find something that has the approximate curvature you are trying to achieve. Pots are very good for this. Assume you are going to have to trim the end of the plank so cut your plank longer than necessary. Moisten (do not soak) the plank and clamp it to the rim of the pot. Hold the free end of the plank in one hand and use a hair dryer on high heat to blow hot air onto the plank. Warm the entire plank and then concentrate on the area you want to bend. Gently bend the plank around the pot until you get the curve you need.
  4. There is also a lot of misinformation about true silver soldering. For example, the mating surfaces need to be clean but they do not need to sit in vinegar or pickle prior to soldering. What they need is perfect contact. Silver solder will not fill in a gap. In a lot of situations, it is better to gradually heat the entire piece rather than concentrating on the solder site. This will help prevent the solder chip from flying. Try laying the silver chip under the piece instead of on top.
  5. Levmiller, you still have healthy ash trees? Around Chicago, the emerald ash borer has killed off 99.9% of them. I still have two trees but that is only because they get a very expensive treatment twice a year. And if you live in an area where the ash borer has been found, all ash wood needs to be removed by someone who knows how to dispose of the wood properly. For that reason, I would not recommend it.
  6. These are the links to the models featured in the calendar. Bob's fishing pink and Gus' Sussex are unpublished. The other models can be found in various issues of the Nautical Research Journal.
  7. To make things more confusing, let me share the sterns of a few other models from the RMG. The cutter Hawke (1777) and the Trinity House hoy (c.1800) were clinker built. I do not see a fashion piece extending onto the transom on either model. Lowestoft (1723) is earlier and larger (sloop of 20 guns) but nicely demonstrates a square stern with a fashion piece extending to the bottom of the transom. Finally, the French lugger of uncertain vintage clearly shows that the hull planking covers the open grain of the transom planks but there is no fashion piece. Hawke Hoy
  8. If I carried the lapstrake all the way to the transom, such that there would be a saw-toothed appearance, that would be erose. Sorry about the obscure verbiage. As druxey states above, "...make gains until the planks are flush with each other into the rabbet." So my question was whether the planks should be flush with each other at the transom as well. druxey, the model does not show a fashion piece below the wale, which I found odd. I also thought the rectangular piece at the stern represented the transom, rather than a fashion piece.
  9. Finally, the second planking belt is completed. My biggest decision was whether to have the aft planking feather out at the transom or leave it erose. I saw examples from this era using both approaches and could not make out the detail on the model. I decided to continue to feather the planks. Those of you who are wiser than I, please correct me if I am wrong, as it would not take too much work to go the other route. I removed the transom planking and will re-plank it after the hull planking is completed. Only six more rows to go!
  10. The NRG is pleased to announce that we will be offering a calendar for 2021. These pictures represent some of the best models being produced by members of the Guild and MSW. Some of these pictures have never been published. AVAILABLE FROM THE NRG STORE
  11. I may have missed this in an earlier post but what changes did you have to make?
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