tlevine

Thanks, Mark.

From the top. Jacynthe by Bill Sproul. Gold Award. Subchaser SC-1 Class by Samuel Parent. Silver Award. Washstrake Dingy by Steve Wheeler. Gold Award. Tails I Win by Greg Zurek. Gold Award. PT 187 by Bob Steinbrunn. Gold Award. Best Painting. Best in Show. Chibi Maru-Kongo by Joseph Simon. Hornet by Chuck Lewis. Silver Award. Vaux Junior and English Pinnace by John Pocius. Gold Awards. Atalanta by Toni Levine. Gold Award. Best Carving. Modeler's Choice. People's Choice. Sussex by Gus Augustin. Gold Award. Best Miniature. City of Pekin by Kurt Van Dahm. Gold Award. Boccho Snag Boat by Jim Heubener. Bronze Award. Bremmen Passenger Liner by Earl Krantz. Bronze Award. Syren by Paul Vidiani. Picket Boat by Paul Vidiani. Bronze Award. Battle Station by Dave "Doc" Blake. Silver Award. Miss Mary. Builder unknown.

Druxey, I will see what I can do.

On Friday, three models of Burger boats were put on permanent display in the Museum. These were White Swan by Richard Young, Splash by Kurt Van Dahm and Lady Isabel by Steve Wheeler. The actual Lady Isabel is also part of the permanent collection.

Thanks to Bob Filipowski for supplying me with pictures of the models at Manitowoc. The models included wooden navy, steel navy, work boats and pleasure boats. Unfortunately the weather did not allow setting up the RC ponds but these models are also represented in the photographs. I do have to add a little bit of self-promotion; Atalanta received a Gold Award as well as Modeler's Choice, People's Choice and Best Carvings. Enjoy!

Your model is too good to put on a flat decoration instead of a quarter gallery. I compared the quarter gallery on Fly with Atalanta. The only differences are the details of the carvings and the angle of the center bank of windows. I assume you have TFFM Vol.2. Follow David's instructions and you should be fine. Also, take a look at Bill Maxwell's Fly on the Admiralty Models site. It gives a good perspective of the depth of the structure.

It is that time of year to consider donating to MSW. What value to you place on your membership in MSW? How much do you learn from your fellow members to improve your model building? Do you enjoy the comradery of your fellow MSW members? Do you appreciate having a place to post your build logs and have others share the building experience with you? Please donate to MSW so the Guild can continue to bring you the best and largest home on the web for model ship builders. All the moderators volunteer their time but there are considerable expenses involved in maintaining the website. These expenses include web hosting costs, software updates and fixing the bugs associated with those updates. It is easy to do, simply click on the Support MSW area in the upper right hand corner. Or even better, consider becoming a full member of the NRG. For only $40 you can receive the digital version of the Nautical Research Journal four times a year and receive member discounts on Guild merchandise such as Shop Notes, CD's of back issues, plans and many more items. https://www.thenrg.org/join-the-nrg.php#!/The-Nautical-Research-Guild-U-S-Membership-Digital-Only/p/114915080/category=31040978 for US and https://www.thenrg.org/join-the-nrg.php#!/The-Nautical-Research-Guild-International-Membership-Digital-Only/p/115071401/category=31040980 for international memberships.

Your best bet is to go to a place like FedEx that has large scale printers. Then be prepared to experiment with the enlargement ratio, obviously for a price. Enlarge all your plans on the same day, on the same copier for the most accurate results. If your enlargement is off by a bit, all of the plans will be off by the same percentage.

Are you gluing this to deck beams or a sub-deck? For beams definitely go with PVA. I use Titebond II. For a sub-deck, consider using contact cement. It will handle the sheer and camber but once you put it on the sub-deck, there is no moving it around.

Install the plywood subject first, build up the bulwark and then plank. You cannot get a tight fit against the bulwark any other way. (I assume with your kit there is no edge plank or waterway. It is also easier to bend the plywood to get it into the hull prior to planking.

Please follow Jaager's advice and look at the angle between the pintle and gudgeon. This needs to be a straight line. Take a look at other longboat builds to see how it should be done.

As usual, the show was great. There were a lot of superb models representing all facets of our modeling community. Unfortunately, the weather did not cooperate so the ponds were not put up for the RC guys to show their models at work. The photo shows all of the modelers who participated. Bob Steinbrunn (front row with the Army cap) took home Best in Show for his superb model of PT-187.

I use these drills almost exclusively, unless I am using a pin vise. That includes free-handing with a Dremel. You simply need a steady hand. No problem drilling through brass strips but I have never tried using them on bar stock thicker than 1/8". Take a peak at the offerings from Drill Bit City. https://drillcity.stores.yahoo.net/index.html They are in the Chicago area and I receive orders from them typically within 3 days.

For those members who have never perused the Database section of MSW, here are the links to the planking tutorials by Antscherl and Passaro. http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/Planking primer.pdf http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/Lining Off your hull for planking.pdf

Great Naval Battles of the Ancient Greek World is written by Owen Rees, an editor for the digital magazine My History Digest. He is also the author of the book Great Battles of the Classical Greek World. Published in 2018, this book focuses on Greek naval history during the period 394-494 BC. The book starts with a basic introduction to the vessels and military tactics utilized by the warring countries of the Mediterranean Sea and Persia during this era. The sections, representing the major areas of conflict, are then broken down into individual battles. The reader is provided with historical background for the battle, followed by a description of the battle itself and its consequences. Maps are included to illustrate the troop locations and movements. There are also maps of Greece and the Aegean Sea and Sicily. The book would have benefited from the addition of maps of the entire eastern Mediterranean and Middle East/Asia Minor as well as the inclusion of modern names for the locations some of the ancient cities and civilizations. The author is passionate about ancient Greek military history, both on land and sea and almost 40 pages of references and suggested readings are provided. Unfortunately, he also assumes the reader is knowledgeable of the history of ancient Greece and Asia Minor and the relationships among the various cities on the Greek peninsula. Without that knowledge, it is difficult to follow the background descriptions preceding the battles. In summary, Great Naval Battles is an academic book which describes the Greek naval battles of the fifth century BC, including the circumstances which led to battle, the troops and ships involved and the consequences of the actions. It is available from Pen and Sword Books www.pen-and-sword.co.uk in both print and Kindle formats.