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About tlevine

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  1. A few minutes in the oven (250F) melts the wax into the rope. Loosely loop it on a paper towel that has been placed on a pre-heated sheet pan.
  2. I also used a flex shaft and right angle attachment for my Dremel with a sanding disc for the initial sanding. Looking good, even if you are frustrated.
  3. Looks great! I cannot tell from the pictures but if you have not faired the inside of the frames, now would be the time to do it while access is still easy.
  4. The key is to treat the copper before it is on the hull, not after. Things to consider... Are you using copper tape or individual plates? What was the original intention of the product, i.e. is there a protective finish that needs to be removed before the "weathering" can occur? What is the look you are after? At launch, just pulled out of the water before cleaning and in a drydock after cleaning and repair will all look different.
  5. I bought some 2 mm chisels from the Carving Glove Guy a few years ago. I already had 3 mm "original" Dockyard chisels that are probably 25 years old. The physical appearance is identical and their cutting and sharpening characteristics are also the same. The sharpening set is also a great help for the V and U chisels.
  6. Great talk! And thank you for mentioning the NRG and MSW.
  7. I am very sorry about the problems you have had. The warpage should not cause any problem with the bulkhead assembly or plank installation. Drop me a PM if something is not coming together right.
  8. Sometimes things look better in photographs; the fastenings look better in real life. I was afraid it would be garish looking but the bolts are scale size (#77 drill bit) and so blend in nicely with the planking.
  9. The coppering on the starboard side is now finished. You can see the difference between the port side with a finish applied and the starboard with none. I have decided to delay applying the finish until the wale has been redone. While doing research for another project, I discovered that the coamings were built several inches too short (8 inches instead of 13). You can see the difference in the picture below. Time to rebuild them all.
  10. Having bought neither (so I have no right to have an opinion 😁) I would suggest continuing the blocks and stopping the rope. As many people have already said, it is a lot harder to make blocks than rope. One of the things that makes your rope so special is the thread that you use. It lays up much nicer than cotton thread. Have you considered selling bolts of the thread so others can make rope of your quality?
  11. If I am drilling holes smaller than #75, I want that hole to be the correct diameter and with a crisp outline. Most of the smaller drill bits placed in a Dremel with a micro chuck or Proxxon have some "shimmy", resulting in oversized holes. For this reason, I almost exclusively use resharpened carbide drill bits for the smaller sizes. I have been using Drill Bit City https://drillcity.stores.yahoo.net/ for years. They are located in the Chicago area.
  12. Putting aluminum or ferrous materials in pickle "poisons" it. That is why pickle pots are ceramic. Since you put that strainer in the pot, you should throw out the pickle before using it again. They make inexpensive copper strainers for bartenders.
  13. If Toni starts forgetting stuff she's got some serious issues!
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