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Jim M

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  1. Jim M
    Good evening, Today I completed, the mid planks on the dory. One lesson I learned on the Model Shipways Dory, it is ok to use more glue. This time arround I was more heavy handed with the glue, before clamping and fitting the planks. Also if you look below I had to bevel opposite sides of the plan so that it meets up better. If you remember when I added the garboard, I had a bevel that was facing out, and on the plank I had the same bevel facing inside of the boat, along with a bevel that faces out on the top of the plank. Does this make sense? Here is the first mid plank clamped up. I did both sides before moving on to the second mid plank. Before doing the port side, I removed the excess from the planks after a good 30 minute soaking. Here I am clamping the second mid plank on the starboard side, if you notice the arrows on the prepped plank and the plank that is clamped you those are bevels. Finally the second mid plank is added to the port side. Another view of the starboard side.
  2. Jim M
    Jacques, I am finding this kit is a nice compliment to the Model Shipways Lowell Dory. In some sense it is easier because of the size. I am however learning some better techniques. For example one thing on this kit that is different is the planking we need to bevel the sides so we get a better connection between planks. The strong board approach is also interesting, and unique to this build.
  3. Jim M
    You know its Friday and 3:00ish and you decide you don't want to work. So I stepped away from the computer and did a little dry fitting of the first middle plank. The boss called for a two hour pair programming session, so I did not get as much as I would l have liked done. The plans did call to mark 1/16 of an inch down from the top of the garboard, and to bevel opposite sides of the plank. Below you can see the initial dry fitting looks pretty good. I did fill that one spot with some plastic wood filler, but it is goint to be a bear to clean up after I remove the Dory from the strong board.
  4. Jim M
    Agreed, I am found that same issue with the Dory. I am currently working on another Dory by Midwest, and it is much more clear. Things are making more sense now.
  5. Jim M
    Wow thank you for explaining that rabbet. I read the documentation two nights ago and i was confused. Secondly I really like your idea using that block as a brace. Great build...
  6. Jim M
    Good evening, Tonight, I mounted the Dory to the strong board. Then I bevelled the edges of the garboards before fitting them. I then added the garboards to the Dory. If you notice on the starboard side at the bow, the plank broke as I was trimming it. I tried to fix with some ca glue but that was a disaster. I guess it will be some wood filler when I remove the Dory from the jig. Have a good evening...
  7. Jim M
    Good evening, I made some more progress today with the Dory. First I trimmed and bevelled the mast step. I had to trim the short end of the mast step to be 1/16 from the center of hole. I trimmed it a little long, and used my sander to get a perfect 90 for all axises (x, y & z). Next I added the mast step next to frame #2. After gluing i moved to fairing my frames, transom and stem. In hindsight, I should have purchased a wood plane to make the bevelling easier on the stem but overall I am satisfied with the result using my sanding block. One thing I learned from the Model Shipways Dory, is not to be as aggressive with the fairing. On that project I broke through one of the frames, and I had to fix it by adding some more wood to it. During this phase I did do a dry fit of the planks to make sure they where contacting nicely to the frames. Finally tonight, I was able to get the strong board ready. The kit arrived with the right dimension for the wood but the lengths where off, so I had to cut the pieces correctly. Below is the dry fit and marking of the board. Once was satisfied with the fit that includes everything is 90 degrees, I glued the pieces to the strong board. I tried using CA but, alast that product is my bane. I ended up using PVA so that the end of the night.
  8. Jim M
    Dan, this looks wonderful. I have my Lobster smack arriving this week, and I am hoping to jump into it arround January. I still need to complete the sailing pram first.
  9. Jim M
    Good evening, my build board arrived today so I was able to make some progress. Considering my cork board is 12x12 I had to cut out the frame plans from the full plan so I could arrange them on the board. After adding the images to the board, I covered it with plastic wrap, and then started to build the frames. After the frames where dry I was able to mount them to the bottom plank. Finally, I was glued up the mast step.
  10. Jim M
    Good morning, I noticed my transom had a small twist favoring the port side. So I removed the transom and knew using isopropyl. I noticed the knee was not fully 90 degrees, so I reset the angles with some more sanding, then re-assembled. You can see the twist on the image wit the red squares. The second photo shows the reset for the transom placement.
  11. Jim M
    Good evening, I picked up this kit when on sale from Model-Expo. I finished their first kit in the Shipwright Series, but I am not as ready as I wanted to move to next ship in the series. Instead I wanted to do another Dory, and this is challenging me and I am having some fun which is more important. A little about me, this is my second ship model. The last time I worked on a model, it was almost forty years ago. I have picked up modeling this year, and I have been bitten by the wood model bug. On the side I am also doing some plastic models. I stated the kit on August 25, and started to look over the plans, and tonight, I was able to complete the knee, stem, transom, and the cleats. I tried something new today, I used magnets and a stainless steel board as a build board, and it seems to be functioning pretty well. However, I am still a little gun shy on using this method to make the frames, so I am waiting on a piece of cork to be delivered. The documentation is well written, however there is a bias for using CA glue, which I am not a fan of. I rather use PVA, and that is what I am using primarily with this model.

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