Jim M

thank you @druxey

Today, I was able to complete step 5, building out the building board. I found that the forms needed some fitting, so I had to expand the joints. Pre fitting the parts, I noticed that the bow and stern posts where a little loose, whereas the frame forms where to large for the opening. I am noticing a trend with the Model Expo kits they are not fully uniform. I then made some re-enforcements for forms to maintain their strength and to help keep them at 90 degrees to the building board. When mounting to the building board, I had the numbers printed on the part going towards the bow. I broke the stern post while I was dry fitting the piece. I then cut a couple pieces reinforcements for the joint as I glued it back together. I also added some more stock to help support the bow stem post. Similarly with the stern post. Overall here is the final after the glue had a chance to set. The bow. Finally the stern.

I thought I would start to work on the Norwegian Sailing Pram in tandem with my Half hull planking project as I can optimize my time while glue is setting. Instead of doing a out box photos, I decide to just get right into the build. Yesterday, I cutted out the knees and transom pieces from the kit. I rounded first removed the char, and then proceed to mark out the center, and on the transoms. I also marked the upper stern transom with a 1/8 inch line so I can attach the lower and upper transoms together. I then glued on the knees. I then proceeded to bevel the transom, being careful to keep the facets intact. This concludes steps 1 - 4 in the documentation.

Good afternoon, Sorry for the lack of progress the last week, I was in Vegas for a week long conference for work. I was able to get the other two planks in for the first strake yesterday. My next step is to start to determine the planking bands.

Looking good @Bryan Woods

very interesting Gregg. I was thinking of one his kits in the future but I may not until the quality issues are sorted.

@GGibson I am really surprised how this kit has so many challenges. Do you feel that is it poor quality or just bad design?

Good evening, The countdown has begun for dead turkey day; I have a lot to due this week, with brining the turkey, making apple and pecan pies, along with my cranberries, and stuffing. However I was able to get some work done on my planking project. As a recap, I was not happy with the garboard last time. I had already cut two planks, and they just where not working. After taking a couple days from the project I was able to get the offending plank done. I first re-scribed the plank. I found that using a small piece of wood I was able to properly burnish the rabbet a lot better, and the length in the template was much more accurate. I then cut the plank a little oversized and used my planner and sanding sticks to bring it the right size. I would check against the marks I made at each the bulkhead. As you can see below, I was able to get the full garboard mocked up nicely using this technique. A close up of the stern A close up of the bow. Next I then glued the planks to the model. I then proceed with the bow for the first strake. However, after I pulled the clamps I noticed that the there was a gaping whole between the planks. It took me three tries to get this plank correct but I was able to finally obtain the results I was looking for. With this plank I decided to wet the plank as I was putting the clamps on for a dry fit so that it would bend a little better. After waiting for the plank to dry, I then glued it on. I did forget to add the pencil to simulate the caulk but I will go back and do it in the morning. Cheers Jim

I found on the second plank having the ability to iterate over it was better. When I worked on the transition, I placed my scalpel in the wrong spot and it slipped. How did you integrate the slicer on these custom planks? Just for the length?

Good evening, I spent some time relining my wale line this afternoon. I received some better chart tape yesterday, so I was able to map out the full wale, get the lines correct. The calapiers helped in visualizing the wale, and where it needs to be. I ended up using some green marker to mark the final positions. I also did some more fairing on the stern to make it a little more smoother. I suspect I may need some more when I get closer to the deck. I then marked out the 14 inches at the stern for the garboard, and the 12 inches for frames D - 3. I also spent some time making tick sheets. Here is the stern And here is frame B After I was happy I took a break to look at the garboard how it is going to lay down. I then marked out and cut out the first half of the garboard on a piece of scrap planking material. I definitely did not like this result. I repeated the process and you can see that the scribing is larger than my fist attempt. I also cut the plank outside of the lines this time so that I can shape it a little better. After cutting it out, I it definitely was a little better in the fit category. I had to do some sanding. However, I am not fully satisfied with this plank; I did not cut the notch correctly, and the plank does not sit in the rabbit correctly. I decided to take a break tonight. However, I think I am going to redo this plank again. Cheers Jim

I suspect it is a sealer of some form, but a sealer blocks staining. I normally stain first then seal the wood.

I use Surfacer on plastic, wood and metal with no issues. The Dory I finish I used all of Mr Hobby paints.

Good evening. Tonight I added the counter. I was a little aggressive with the sanding and I added a shim to get a solid connection. Secondly i mapped out the wale and added a string line to get the bottom into a nice curve. Have a good night.

@MBerg In my opinion is that you should use a lacquer based primer and spray it on. If you want to use an acrylic base primer, Monument Hobbies (ProAcryl) makes a fantastic spray primer. Similarly Mr Hobby (Mr Surfacer) with their Aqueous Surfacer 1000. I do really like Mr Surfacer 1000 lacquer primer for the first priming. It fills in the minor defects. The product is also available as spray. Before I lay down any paint I will sand and smooth out the primer with 1500 grit wet/dry sand paper. Finally I will then hit it with Mr Surfacer 1500 and then lightly sand after it is cured. I found the Model Expo paint to be grainy at best; the paint does not thin well, either with isopropyl or water or medium. When I paint with acrylics I always use a retarder, and I thin it to help the paint lay down smoothly. To thin I generally used both a retarder and acrylic thinner and/or medium. I do recommend that you seal your model with either a sanding sealer or shellac. If using shellac i thin it it 1:1 with isopropyl, then I sand lightly with 400 grit paper, and then apply a second coat to remove the raising of the grain. After that, I then prime and paint. jim

Looking good. Those chisels look awesome. did you get the add ons for you slicer and sander?

Nice fix @palmerit

I am @kurtvd19. This build is adding some clarity to how ships should be planked.

Good evening a minor update for today. I did some more fairing of the hull and i focused on the stern. The sample board is fitting nicely. Tomorrow plan is to get the counter in and finish the fairing. Hopefully I can get the planking bands identified jim

Good evening, I have a quick question regarding the garboard and broad strakes in general. In the planking tutorial we split the garboard into two planks and the broad strake into three. The remaining planks are then split into four. My questions are: 1. When the garboard is created is it generally 50 feet? Or would the ship makers use the same length as the planks of 25 feet? Similarly with the broad strake? 2. Would the planking patten then be in play if this is the case? 3. Are planks generally joined with scarf joints? would the garboard and broad strakes be double the length ok the planks when the ship is being built. It seems to be unrealistic that a 50’ guard boards are installed but more realistically a 25’ boards would be and the planking pattern would adjusted accordingly. Am I correct here? jim

Good evening. A minor update on the planking tutorial. Today finished fairing the bow portion of the hull. I was able to get a nice curve on the hull. Here is a photo just about the second strake. This is approximately the second strake. The garboard Next, I started to tackle the top line in the stern. You can see I have a low spot on frames E and D. I used thread to give me a nice line along the bulwarks. More sanding, and I am getting a little closer. The lower top line is starting to curve nicely a little high spot on A. After some sanding with a long sanding block I was able smooth out that high spot Here you can still see the low spots on E and D. I am pretty close here, I need to thin out G a bit more, and get a nice line. I started to address the the upper part of the top line to blend nicely into the transom. Have a good night. Cheers

@palmerit I am starting to understand how planking and fairing should be done now. I am really loving my dremel with the wand attachment. I keep it at under 10k in speed and go slow. I am also using a 120 grit sandpaper so that is not that aggressive.

Good morning, I know it has been a while since I last posted. Real life has gotten in the way. By November 1, I had completed the following: I started with finishing adding the supports and the transom. Before adding it, I realized I glued the L-Piece onto the board incorrectly, so I had to pull out the isopropyl out and fix its positioning. I did use a square to line up the transom. For the next few days, I spent some time getting the top line correct. I used chart tape to help visualize the curve. From there I use a square to transfer the line to the bulwarks. If you notice, I had to add a shim on 5a and AF. This is because I deepened those connections. Overall I am happy with the line. Last week I broke down and purchased a Dremel. Thus last night, I finally got back to the project, and I started with shaping the top line. I purposely did not go all the way to my marks, so that I would have some room if necessary after planking to get the curves correct. Here is the stern section. It will require some more sanding, as there is still a high spot. The bow also is looking not bad. Here is a view of the sanded top line. Finally I started to fair the bulwarks from DF -> AF. The curve is starting to take shape and I am getting some good contact with the plank. Frame 4A is still not correct. I may need to add a filler to fix the line a bit. Also when I tested the fit along the top line i noticed I had a gap as frame 4 is causing a high spot. Overall the fairing is going well. I still need some more work on the bow half of the hull, but I decided to walk away last night as I do not want to rush things. Though I did notice that my bow rabbet is a little shallow so I will deepen it too. Cheers

@palmerit Very nice, that is what I did too. I just now to get my new Dremel broken in and sand down the top line. I have some pictures to post to update my status laster today. I also marked my whale lines early on the side of the bulkheads to make it easier after fairing. Did you fair with your Dremel or all by hand?

how did you mark the top line? i am struggling getting mine to look right before sanding

Good evening. Here is my next update. Today, I extended the slots on the keelson. Next I glued in the frames in two batches. Batch 1 -> Frames E, C A, 1, 3 Batch 2 -> Frames -> D, B, DF (O), 2, 4 Next I added the fillers, and knocked off some of the char on the bulkheads. I then marked out the bearding line use frames G and H as guides. I then took a french curve to make the curve. Next, I shaped the bearding line by marking 1/32 and then blending in the curve. Next i extended the rabbet along the keel until the the stern post. This rabbet is 90 degrees. I then glued in the deadwood, sternpost and L-shaped pieces Finally I glued in F and G frames. I initially had H glued in but I was a little hasty and removed it before it set. I will let this firm up over night and continue on the next step tomorrow. Cheers