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Nightdive

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    Varsinais-Suomi, Finland

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  1. Good to know, I'll need to check out that part of your build log again. I'll try adding two small extra bits of wood to mine first, the seam might not be too visible in a black part.
  2. Happy new year to you too! Gunwales are now installed and gunports painted. I filed and re-painted them multiple times to make the laminated structure of the sides less obvious. No masking was needed when using a tiny brush and painting from the inside of the ship. I ran into some issues with the side timbers and transom rail, highlighted in red. There's probably something wrong with my counter installation, or it might just be that all the small deviations over the course of the build are catching up with me on these last few parts. I can probably sand the counter to fit the transom rail, but side timbers need to be modifed or new ones cut from scratch.
  3. I've made some good progress since my last update. Before gluing the deck on I performed some experiments with LED lights, and light was shining through even when both decks were in place. A layer of black paint seems to block it. I also painted the visible parts of the interior black. Fitting the inner bulwarks and spirketting on was fairly straightforward, but I had to add a small extension piece to one of them. I built the hatch stays out of 0.5 mm aluminium sheet. I sanded it down to 0.3 mm after cutting the pieces. They were very tricky to install, but I think that the end result looks nice. I used brass pins for door handles and PE-21 hinges from the 0.2 mm PE sheet. There are only six of them and the manual says that they are "not in use", but I assume that they were originally intented for the port lids. I might try to fake those eight missing hinges with paint. The ladder was copied from the kit ladder and took me three tries to get right. I look forward to continuing this project next year. Many interesting phases of the build remain ahead. Merry Christmas everyone!
  4. The companionway is almost ready for paint. I also found a better way to make its footprint slightly larger. I'd greatly appreciate any opinions on the hatch stay that Caldercraft's HMS Pickle has. I'm considering replicating it for the Sherbourne. Is it based on something real, or just model designer's imagination? The part circled in red is also a bit of a mystery to me. I think that the vertical iron has a tooth that catches on the horizontal piece when the hatch is open, but I'm not sure. I haven't been able to find any close-up photos in build logs.
  5. Thanks for stopping by! Those round things are just thumb tacks with the white plastic bit removed.
  6. Does anyone happen to have information about the hold-open device that the Pickle's companionway has? Is it based on a real 18th century example, and how is it supposed to work? I can't figure out the part circled in red, all of the images that I could find are too blurry. Maybe there's a tooth on the rod that catches on the horizontal bar? I'm currently thinking of replicating this for my Sherbourne.
  7. Companionway progress. The laser-etched area is slightly larger than the companionway, so I'll have to add a small board to cover it.
  8. I keep finding small errors in my photos that I hadn't noticed in real life! This time it was the port-side wale that was a little too low. I re-attached the entire thing and it's better now. Getting the wales on properly was a struggle for me, and I'd recommend shaping them with steam until they're a perfect fit. I only bent mine in one direction before putting the paint on. That's probably deep enough. I could have just drilled down, but I opened the front as well, so that some light from the LEDs might shine into the companionway. I'll paint the interior black, if building the open companionway works out.
  9. Before I glue the deck on, I'd like to explore the possibility of opening the companionway, as it could be a fun little project. Maybe the doors only, or the roof as well. There seems to be a lot of wood underneath it, but maybe that could be removed with Dremel engraving bits to make room for a ladder.
  10. I'm finally back to modeling. The yellow ochre turned out to be a little darker than I'd expected, but I think that it still looks great. I deviated from the manual and attached the wales early, but then I realized that they make trimming excess wood from the stern and lower counter very difficult. Luckily I had only used CA, so the ends detached easily. I painted the prow by hand after this contemporary model. The other side is red, but I might change that before I put the bulwarks and spirketting on.
  11. 50th anniversary of the sinking.
  12. It took me an embarrassingly long time to figure it out myself. I too scoured other build logs, but since there was no mention of it, I assumed my PE sheet had a printing error that others didn’t. Should have mentioned about it in my log though. This is how I did it, not sure if 100% correct: Sternpost: PE-26, PE-24, PE-22 Rudder: PE-25, PE-23, PE-21
  13. Wow, it sometimes takes a while for parcels to arrive from the UK. In the meantime I started another side project, creating some lighting with an Arduino. I'm planning to place one or two leds below deck, plus one on the deck, but as the Sherbourne doesn't have any fixed lights, I decided to create a portable lantern. I used HMS Victory's lanterns as a model, with dimensions sourced from this website: https://www.invaluable.com/auction-lot/a-painted-tin-and-horn-lantern-from-the-gun-decks-c-ce640afa9a It's made of 3 mm acrylic rod, electrical tape, shrink tube for the horizontal bands, plus some paint and scrap brass. 2025-10-30.mp4 edit: After making my post, I realized that the top part looked a little off. So I went back and removed an extra piece of brass from underneath the loop.
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