mobbsie

Hi Gents,
 
Thanks for looking in gents and all your kind comments and remarks during this restoration.
 
This will be the final update on the restoration as she is now complete and has been taken down to the museum, I must say they are very pleased with her as am I.
 
The rigging was a bit of a mystery as there is no plan that I could find so it was a case of looking at as many photos and other builds of a similar ilk.
 
She came together very quickly in the end and before I realised it she was almost done and it really wasn't worth making two posts with what was left. I decided to carry on and finish her off.
 
There's no tech info to pass on so I will get straight into the pics and hope you enjoy them.
 
I wanted the sails to billow and so I soaked these ropes in white glue, the ruler is to add some tension and hold the sail out until the glue dries.

 
The main sail with some of the rigging, the Reg Number was put on using a Chinagraph pencil my Admiral uses in the garden, no bleed and it worked a treat I think.

 
A chain storage box was made up

 
The fittings have been placed in the hold

 
All the sails are now on and hopefully they look as if they are filled with air, I used a large fan and starch, sprayed the starch on in small amounts and let it dry by the fan, then add more starch and repeat until desired effect happens.

 
The Top Sail didn't take to well and proved a pointless task, it held for a while then dropped.

 
The Spritsails are clearly billowing

 
The shape of the Mainsail can be seen and it held it's shape.


 
And the final pic

 
So there we are, the finished boat. I have enjoyed doing this restoration as it has made a complete change in the subject which upto now has not been my thing, who knows where we go from here.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Hi B.E.
 
I missed the start mate, hope there's room to fit a little fat man in.
 
You've made a great start and that Stem looks the business.
 
You gotta love Proxxen, all my model power tools are Proxxen, they do have their limitations though, if I had had more knowledge when I got them I think I would have been a bit more discerning, still hindsight and all that.
 
Have a good Xmas and New Year mate.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 

Hi Guys,
 
Thank you all so very much for your very kind comments and remarks and for your continued support throughout this build, it has been very much appreciated.
 
Thank you Grant for getting me into this build and for your help, support and discussions during the build, I am pleased with the end result and never ever thought I would be able to build anything like this, your input has been invaluable mate.
 
The case has arrived and I must say it's quite impressive, it's made from 3mm Acrylic with the base Mahogany and a green felt inlay. I found the company via the internet and it's about 17 miles from me in Colchester. It arrived by mail and was so well packed you could have nuked it and it would have survived.
 
I've not only been working on the Granado but have also worked on the following boats:- Harwich Bawley (Restoration), Thames Barge Edme ( Repair / Restoration ), Thames Barge Will Everard ( Commission ), 3 none nautical kits from Woody Joe, Scorpion Crossbow and a Norman Catapult. All these in 1 year so as you can see I've not been idol.
 
I have some pics of the add-ons just a from - too 
 
The Bawley, From This                                                
  
 
To This

 
Edme,  From This                                                                                  To This
             
 
Will Everard ( Commission ) 

 
Now for the Granado Cross Section, I have increased the pixel count on these so hopefully they will be a bit larger. The felt inlay looks blue in the pictures but it's green in reality, also the case looks a bit milky in some but it is really clear.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
So there we are gents, the end of a years enjoyable and rewarding work, surprising what can be achieved when pushed and encouraged, thanks Grant and you guys.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Further to my last post I do have some more pics of the stands
 
 
 
 
 

 
I hope that helps.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 

Hi Gents,
 
Thanks very much for your kind words and comments and also for hitting the "like" button, all are very much appreciated.
 
This is the penultimate update, she's completed apart from the display case which should arrive some time this week.
 
I made the Channel Board from 7/16 x 1/16 Swiss Pear, with the template in place I filed the chain cut outs to 1.0mm, I was using 0.04 brass strip for the Chain Plate and didn't need to go too deep. The Chain Plate retaining Paunch is just a straight piece of 1/16 Swiss Pear, the Channel Knees were also 1/16 Swiss Pear.
 
The Chain Plates were cut to a width of 2mm from 0.04mm brass sheet and the end bent around a 1.0mm brass rod, I left a tail on the loop which when fitted would go through the cut outs on the Chain Plate locking the Iron Chain Strop in place, the opposite end had a 0.8mm hole drilled. I pre-shaped my first set of Chain Plates but these turned out to be a dismal failure and a new set was cut and left straight apart from the loop, until they were fitted.
 
The Iron Chain Strop which locks the Deadeye's in place is 0.5mm Copper Wire, this was wrapped around the Deadeye's and a full twist tight beneath them held them in place, the tails were then wound around a 1.0mm brass rod, this loop was then fitted into the loop on the Iron Chain Strops. The Chain Plates and Iron Chain Strops were then blackened using John Penny Antiquing Fluid.
 
Next up came the Swivel Gun Pedestal, These are 3/16 x 3/16 Swiss Pear, they had to be filed down to 6 sides and shaped to fit the Hull and Sheer Rail, a 0.8mm hole was drilled in the top for the Swivel Gun Mounting Yoke. As a small piece of decoration a small sticky backed copper band was placed around the top.
 
The Yoke was made from some spare Hammock Chains from my Agamemnon, they were shaped and cut down to size, 4 x Eyebolts were then glued to top of the Yoke using Resin ( I tried to solder them on but failed miserably, just too small ).
 
The Swivel Guns were next, these little beasties were made from 1/14 x 1/14 Ebony and they done my head in. They weren't difficult to turn except that I still cant get two the same but the basic problem was quite important, I couldn't see the damn things!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.
 
I had all the lights available to me on the job but I still had to put white paper under them so I could see what I was doing, the only casualty was me in that I ended up with one hell of a headache from eyestrain, anyway the muzzle was drilled out and a hole drilled through to take Trunion.  
 
Next up came the Entry Port Ladders, these were made from 3/32 x 1/8 Swiss Pear. I cut three stripes 4" long and glued them together staggering each strip thus forming the basic shape, they were then cut into 5 x 5/8 steps and each end filed forming the step.
 
The last thing I had to do before assembly was to drill and fill the Hull Treenails, 0.8mm holes were drilled and a mixture of saw dust used to fill back. I made the filling from Holly, Ebony and Pear mixed with a white filler, the end result is quite pleasing to my eye. 
 
With all the parts made it was time to assemble, I fixed the Entry Port Ladders in place followed by the Chain Board, the Swivel Gun Pedestal was then fixed in place. The Iron Chain Strops were then placed into the Chain Board and the bottoms pinned in place. All that was left to fit was the Swivel Gun Yokes, these just pushed into the Pedestal and did not need fixing.
 
A couple of coats of Poly Satin finish and all is complete, so I do have some pictures but as usual I get too involved with what I'm doing and didn't photo the processes.
 
Some Picture
 
   
 
 
 
I forgot to mention the stand, I didn't like the stand, I thought it's a bit too chunky and so cut it down, I wont go into written details as I do have some pics that cover that side.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
So that's it guys, quite a big entry so if anybody has any questions please ask away.
 
Final update will be with the Display Case.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Hi Gents,
 
Thanks guys for your comments and remarks, also for all who hit the "like" button, their all very much appreciated.
 
Its update time again.
 
The deck area is now completed, I started rigging the guns before placing onto the deck, the Breech ropes were measured and the ends were then whipped into the ringbolts, the blocks are 5mm singles ( these blocks were made by Grant for my Agamemnon and were left over from her ), one block x 4 was tied to eyebolts and glued onto each gun carriage. These were then put aside.
 
24 Ring Bolts, 4 Kevel Cleats,4 Cleats and 2 Entry Port Ladders were made up and then fitted, I didn't take any pics of these items as they are a pretty standard item. The Kevel Cleats on the Sheer Rail are of 3/32 Ebony and is a very simple shaping exercise, the remaining Cleats are 3/32 Red Heart and again are a very simple shaping exercise, these cleats were drilled and fixed in place using glue and pins.
                                                          
The Gun Carriages were glued into position, the Hooks on the running tackles were positioned and the Breech Rope Ring Bolts glued in, 4 Flemish Coils were made and placed on the deck either side of the guns. The Entry Port Ladders were then glued on. The ladders were made from 1/16 Swiss Pear.
 
The Flemish Coils are made from 0.75mm natural thread on a bed of low tack masking tape, once the coils had been formed they were soaked in diluted PVA.
 
Next up will be the Channel Boards and Deadeyes and all the metalwork that goes with them, I have had a practice and I know what I will be doing with them. I have had a good go at making the Deadeyes but all attempts ended in complete failure, so with my mentors approval I will be buying them in, they will still be Boxwood so I will remain true with that.
 
Some Pictures.
 
One of the canons with it's rope work

 

 
Finished canon with Flemish Coils

 
The finished weather deck ( a big jump )

 

 

 

 
So there we are, next up is all outer hull work with the exception of the Swivel Guns, ( should be fun )
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Guys, back from the track and a good day was had by all, it was lovely to see my sons face after each event, took me years back to when he was just a young boy, wonderful.
 
OK, it's time to show the cannon's, as I said in my last post their not identical and their a little longer than should be, but I quite like them.
 
Also I shall be showing some pics of how I do the Trunion Caps, there not meant as a tutorial so please don't think they are, it's just the way I do them. 
 
Some pics
 

 

 

 
So now for the Trunion Caps
 
A sheet of 0.4 brass, cut a little narrower than the sides

 
Turn the end of the strip up and place 0.5 brass wire inside

 
Using tweezers, press the turn up down and apply pressure, locking the wire in place.

 
Place strip into blackener.

 
Position the strip onto the carriage side and cut to size, then when in position press firmly either side of the Trunion until the strip forms a good fit over the Trunion.

 
Drill a 0.5m hole into the end of the strip

 
Place a small eyebolt in the end and a light dab of C/A to fix

 
A simple way of making the Trunion Caps, the finished item.

 
I do hope you don't mind me putting my method in here, as I say it's not meant as a tutorial, it's simple and it works for me.
 
Next up is the Deck Arrangement i.e. Ladders, Kevel Cleats etc.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Guys,
 
Thanks for the good word and comments, also those who hit the like button, cheers, very much appreciated.
 
You'll have to bear with me as I've just down loaded Windows 10 and it's all very strange and I think it's going to take quite some getting used to.
 
It's update time again.
 
As seen in my previous post the Sheer Rail was shaped and cut, well it's now fitted and very secure, I followed Grants lead and pinned and used epoxy resin to fix it permanently.
 
The outer hull planking is now complete and is just waiting for the bolts/treenails, its been a coat of wipe on poly. The one difference is that I've placed a single strake under the wales, the strakes being Yellow Heart and it all stands out quite well.
 
Now for the Mortar Bed, all made out of Swiss Pear and it seemed more like a jigsaw puzzle than anything else. However, we prevailed and have come up with a piece that I'm quite happy with. All the furniture has been added as has a coat of poly.
 
The Mortar, now that was a complete different kettle of fish, made from a 1" block of Ebony it really wasn't a job I was looking forward to. With the lathe screw head fitted and the piece fitted into my lathe and the correct selection of carving chisel's of I went. Now I had pictured in my mind just how this was going to turn out but boy was I wrong, I was absolutely disgusted with myself on my first attempt, so it was time to start again. Fortunately I had enough length of wood to continue and not have to reset, the second attempt was much more successful and turned out to be a keeper, I'll let you make your own minds up about that.
 
The Mortar and the Bed have now been married up and all clamps made and fitted, all in all I'm quite pleased with this part of the build, it's like a separate model on it's own.
 
OK, now for the tricky bit, the pictures, I'll most likely lose everything now.
 
It's not gone quite to plan but I hope you like the pics and as always all comments and remarks are most welcome
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
 
 
 

It's update time again gents, only a small one this time though.
 
Thank-you one and all for your positive and very kind remarks, also for all who hit the like button.
 
The Mortar pit is now complete and fitted, given the two coats of WOP and the fit became really tight, fortunately a little persuasion and it went home ok.
 
The Hatch coamings are made from Redheart, not familiar with this wood and I don't think I like it very much, It's really easy to work with and I think is softer than Swiss Pear, another drawback is that the filings act very similar to Ebony in that they stain other wood, when sanding down the sandpaper mustn't be used for any other wood, having said all that the effect is very different. 
 
The Hatch Boards are made from Walnut and are so simple, the bend in the boards was formed by moulding them around the Hatch Coaming, you will see the method I used in the pictures, nothing startling there I can assure you.
 
Said Hatch is now complete and fixed onto the deck, the cross section has now been placed into a plastic carrier bag and put aside waiting for company.
 
My attention is currently focused on repairing my Barge which was damaged in the Museum, a log has yet to be set up but will be located in the Scratch Section, this log will be up and running in the next day or so.
 
Picture time
 
The completed Mortar Pit frame

 
Hatch Coaming

 
Old planks laid over the coaming and held down by an elastic band

 

 
The shape for the boards to follow

 
The four boards clamped in place

 
Completed Hatch including the lifting rings, they look a little on the heavy side.

 
Both Mortar Pit and Coaming fixed in position

 

 
So your up to date now guys, it may be a while before the next update.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Sorry Guys, I hit the wrong key, we will continue.
 
A big jump, the complete Upper Deck

 

 

 
These are the plans for the Upper Deck just for clarity

 
The Mortar Pit dry fitted

 
Mortar Pit all glued up with shackle rings fitted.

 
So there we are guys, your up to date, sorry for the big jump with the Upper Deck but I think I just got carried away.
 
All comments, remarks or suggestions are welcome, good or bad.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 

Hi Guys
 
It's update time again.
 
Thanks one and all for your very kind comments and remarks also the like button, very much appreciated.
 
All the Beams are now completed, fitted and given two coats of WOP.
 
The Trimmer Beams were fitted as part of the Upper Deck along with the Carlings, next up came the Hanging Knees and Lodging Knees. Notches cut into the Lodging Knees and some of these proved problematic.
 
Because of my inability to Mill I used a sharp blade to cut the notches, the nature of the wood (Swiss Pear) which very soft some of the edges of the notches broke away, these then had to be remade. On reflection I would have done things differently in that I would not have cut the notches in the Knees until the Ledges had been offered up. Not all notches lined up, and so had to opened up so a parallel fit could be achieved.
 
The Upper Deck came together really quickly which was a surprise, it looked daunting to me and I really wasn't looking forward to this part of the build,  I think it's a reasonable finish, after sanding it was given 2 coats of WOP.
 
Next up was the Mortar Pit, its quite a snug fit so sanding will have to be gentle with a fine paper, it's now glued up with the rings attached to the inside, when the glue has set sanding will be done and WOP applied.
 
Enough words, time for some pictures.
 
All the Beams are fitted including the Half Beams, these were a real pig to fit, just awkward.

 
Here's one of the Hanging Knees, these turned out to be a really good fit.

 
The first of the Lodging Knees fitted.

 
First set of Lodging Knees and Hanging Knees

Hi Guys
 
It's update time again.
 
It's been a while since I worked on the Cross Section due mainly to working on the Bawley, that's completed now so it's back to the main build.
 
I was / am playing catch-up to Grant and so have been a bit busy in the shipyard.
 
The Mortar Pit Support Standards are made, fitted and have been given a coat of Poly, at the same time I made the Centre Line Stanchions, these were made from 1/4" x 1/4" Walnut, these were turned on my lathe. I only had to make three but it took me eight attempts to do it ( need more practice ). These have now been given a coat of Poly and have been dry fitted.
 
It's now time to tackle the Upper Deck Beams, I really was not looking forward to doing these as I know for sure they will show up my extremely poor wood working skills.
With Beams cut out and sanded down on the drum and disc sanders the top template was lined up and pressed into place, the notches then had to be cut out, instead of milling the cut-outs I used a sharp blade to cut the outer edge of the notch then used a home made chisel and 3mm chisel to remove the unwanted wood, this for is the best way because I have little faith in my drill stand, I don't think I will get the accuracy that is needed, Beams 1, 2 and 3 have so far been made and are dry fitted.
 
I did receive a phone call on Friday evening from my Granddaughter asking if I can make her a Pirate Ship, it doesn't have to be very big but it needs to float and be robust, and can you have it ready to be taken to school on Monday, don't panic.
This request was met fully and you will see the result, I was told when she came to take it that weights were going to be placed on it to see how much it would take before it either capsized or sank, wish I had know before I started it.
 
I must thank Grant at this stage for pointing out some errors in the plans, these errors have been validated and corrections being made, thanks mate.
 
Pictures
 
The Black Pig, Captain Pugwash's ship

 
Pit Support Standards

 

 
2 of the 3 Stanchions dry fitted

 

 
The 3 Beams are dry fitted and should eventually match up with other Beams

 

 
So that's where I am guys, Beam building continues.
 
Any an all remarks and comments are welcome as usual.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
 

Hi Guys,
 
Been a bit backward in coming forward with my latest update I'm afraid, all I can say is that it's been an eventful couple of weeks and this old geezer doesn't usually do eventful.
 
Things have moved on a step or two since my last post and I can be accused of getting carried away, I promised to show the making up of the Shellroom but unfortunately this is now not possible. So I'm afraid we have from component parts to completed item in two pictures, If anybody wants to see how the Shellroom is constructed then may I suggest you pay a visit to Grants log in this section and he will most likely show how it's done, he's very good at that sort of thing.
 
So, we now have our Shellroom completed and all polyied up it's on to the next stage.


 
First up is the make up of the Mortar Pit Beams and Planking, it strikes me that with the dimensions of the Planking they should be referred to as Boards, they are quite substantial pieces of wood when taken in scale.

 
Here are the component parts for the Mortar Pit Beams and Planking

 
The Beams are not difficult to make up and are pretty straight up unless your me that is, the cut outs for the Shellroom supports were not quite lined up and so each had to measured up to fit, not difficult but a lot of too-ing and fro-ing. This shot is of the Beams being glued into place.

 
All Beams are now firmly glued into position

 
Next up we have the Mortar Pit Planks, These are made up of two different size Holly Planks, the Primary Planks are made from 1/4 x 3/16 and the Secondary Planks are 3/16 x 1/8 with the outer Planks being 1/4 x 1/8. I also used black paper for the caulking.The centre of the Secondary Planking was cut out using a hole cutter, the Treenails were drilled and made up from dust gained from sanding down the planks and using the slightly darker material, I think it works.

 
The two planking's offered up to each other

 
The Mortar Pit Boundary Timbers  were made up from 5/16 x 1/4 Pear and routed on my trusty Proxxon Router.

 
The Primary and Secondary Planking have now been fitted into the cut outs on the Boundary Timbers and the Upper and Lower Deck Clamps have been glued into position.

 
So there we are guys, your right up to date now. It seems a pretty good place to stop for the time being as I have now been given the job of restoring a Harwich Bawley which is a Shrimp Fishing Smack. I was looking for a secondary build and now I have it.
I also have to repair my Thames Barge which was damaged by the decorators during pre season work at the museum.
I will be starting a new log for the Bawley and hopefully restarting my old log for the barge, if it still exists, the damage to the barge is quite extensive and will require a full breakdown of all masts and rigging. Oh deep joy.
 
Hope you enjoy the update guys.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Hi Guys,
 
Time for a quick update.
 
Work has continued on the Shellroom.  The deck support beams were cut from Swiss Pear and placed in their location, you got it, they didn't fit, so a little adjustment was required to the Floor Riders, not with a little trepidation I took a razor saw to the Riders and trimmed off the excess, this time all was well and with a bit of gentle persuasion they fitted.
 
Next up was the Bomb Racks, very simple and gave no trouble, these were made from Swiss Pear, I made a very simple vice to hold them so that I could grind out the dip for the Bombs to sit in, this worked a treat and they were turned out in no time.
 
The Pillars gave me a little more trouble because I had to mill them in three's because my vice wouldn't open wide enough, some irregularity seeped in and a few cuts didn't line up, these had to be recut, they took me the best part of a day to complete.
 
Next up, the Shellroom deck, I made this from six pieces of Holly, I used black card for the corking, each deck has three pieces and once glued together they were sanded down to size. On refection the card is not the correct size, it's too big, but I quite like the effect and so it's going to stay.
 
The Support Beams, Deck beams and Deck were glued in position and given two coats of Poly. The racks were made up and also given two coats of poly.
 
The Bombs were made from a child's bracelet ( not my Granddaughters ), my Admiral bought them but they were silver, dilemma, what was I to do, the remit for the build was for no paint to be used, sorry guys I failed in this area, the Admiral bought some spray paint and so the bombs were duly painted ( GOLD ). Didn't check the tin did I, so this time I got it and duly sprayed the bombs.
 
The Bomb racks have been made up but I don't have any pics of them just yet, but another update will be following shortly.
 
The Upper Support Beams were cut so all that needs to be done is the actual construction.
 
Some pics
 
My simplified vice for holding the flat stuff
 
 
 
 
Most of the parts that make up the Shellroom still to be given a coat of Poly

 
Support Beams and Deck Beams in place

 
Support Beams and Decking placed and given two coats of Poly

 
So that's it for now, next update will be soon.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Gents,
 
Well she's out of the plastic bag and some progress has been made.
 
First job was to remove the Jig, this was done with some trepidation as I wasn't sure what was going to happen, at first it was quite tight but when she came out she popped like a cork out a bottle, and in one piece. She is surprisingly robust even at this stage.
 
Next up was to make a working stand, all I done was to cut my old Agamemnon stand down, I cut about 5 inches out of the length and the stand ends are in line with Frames "D1-D2 and Frame 12 so there is no need to place lateral planks. It will do the job nicely I think.
 
After that the outside of the frames needed sanding / fairing, not my most favourite job but it needs to be done. This was done with no problems or disasters.
 
There was some discussion about Treenailing the Footwails Strake's and Limber Board & Strake's, I wasn't going to do it but have now changed my mind, so I have now drilled 260 x 0.5mm holes in said Strakes and Boards, these will be filled with false treenails, a mixture of filler and sawdust.
 
So that's where I am at the moment, some pics.
 
Just out of the Jig prior to Fairing the Frames

 

 
After Fairing the Frames

 

 
Working Stand

 
Template used for marking Treenails

 
Some of the holes 0.5mm holes drilled

 

 
Colour testing for false Treenails

 
So there we are, up to date.
 
Your comments, remarks and thoughts are more than welcome guys, good or bad.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Gents,
 
Having said that I would be suspending the shipyard for a while well that wasn't strictly true. I put it down to toothache syndrome, you know, if you have a toothache you just cant help but keep putting your tongue on it, well so the cross section turned out to be the same.
 
I do have an update on the build which for me seemed a good place to stop.
 
All the Limber Boards and Strakes are completed as is the Footwailing Strakes, for the Footwailing I used a cardboard template to give me the distance between the Limber Boards and the Footwailing's. This is quite a simple section in that there is no shaping to be done, it's just a case of cutting them to size and fitting in place.
 
Following that I decided to permanently fix the Mortar Deck Clamps and fit the Mortar Deck Clamp Upper Strake (thick stuff), the Mortar Deck Clamps were already cut out, shaped and were dry fitted, these took but seconds to fix. The Upper Strake needed to be cut and though not required I shaped the back edge, that done they just needed to be cut to size and fixed in, so that's where I am now.
 
The next section to build will be the Shell Room, Mortar Pit Beams and Planking but they will be for later, NO HONEST I MEAN IT.
 
I will however still be building but not on ship stuff, my secondary build has arrived and so I will still be busy.
 
OK now for some pics
 
Cardboard template to give correct spacing along the length of the Footwailing


 
Parts of the Lower Strake have been fitted

 
All the Footwailing Strakes have now been fitted


 
Next up is the Mortar Deck Clamps and Upper Strakes



 
So all up to date now, the build has now been placed in a carrier bag to keep dust off, the next time she comes out will be for a couple of coats of poly, then back into the bag until it's time to carry on.
 
Thanks guys for all your remarks and comments and for hitting the like button.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
 

Update time again gents, before that I would like to thank you for the kind comments and for hitting the like button.
 
I seem to be stumbling from one disaster to another with this build, it's about time I started thinking more latterly and stop making stupid mistakes. 
 
As stated in my previous update I was having an issue with the floor riders, I notched the Keelson and that fixed the problem, the top of the riders were on the mark, 34mm / 1" 5/16 above the jig base, got something right at last.
 
All Floor riders were then glued into place and set aside to dry. I then went to fit the Mortar Deck Clamp and you got it, it was all to cock. Yet again the Floor riders have to come out and adjustments need to be made to the  Mortar Deck Clamp cut outs on the Futtock Riders.
 
The frames were marked up to the bottom  of the Mortar Deck Clamp (62mm or 2"3/8), each Floor rider ( including Futtock Riders ) was measured and adjusted accordingly and then marked up Port and Starboard on the underside, then dry fitted. the Mortar Deck Clamp was dry fitted and a few more adjustments were made. Eventually all parts came together and so the Floor Riders were again glued in, the Mortar Deck Clamp is currently dry fitted.
 
Next up came the Lumber Board and Strake, using my trusty Proxxon Router, Scroll Saw and Disc Sander all the parts were cut and made up, each of the Lumber Board and Strake pieces were left whole until I needed to cut them to fit between the Floor Riders, they are now fitted and will most definitely stay in place I think !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
So that's where I am at the moment and that's where I will stay for a while, the shipyard is in a state of suspension in order to allow my build buddies to catch up a little,( please don't think that this is in any way the hurry up ), it's more for me to think more into the what it is I'm supposed to be doing and try to get it right first time.
 
Grant, thanks mate for keeping me on the straight and narrow. Appreciate it.
 
It will also allow me time to work on my secondary build, (none ship related). A 15th / 16th century Crossbow from Mantua.
 
Some Pictures
 
Notched Keelson in position

 
Component parts of the Floor and Futtock Riders 

 
3 of the 5 constructed Floor Riders

 
The first Floor Rider in position and clamped down

 
All Floor Riders are positioned with the Mortar Deck Clamp dry fitted

 
All aspects of the build can be seen here, Frames, Floor Riders, Mortar Deck Clamps and Limber Board & Strake

 
End Section of the Limber Board and Strake

 
Finally two shots of the completed Limber Board & Strake

 

 
So once again your right upto date guys, if you have any questions please ask away.
 
Thanks for looking in
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Hi Guys,
 
I thought it was about time I put pen to paper and came up with an update, just to let you know I haven't fallen of the planet.
 
All the frames are now glued onto the keel and that showed my first problem, not all the frames fitted the jig fully, a few were as much as 2mm in from the outside of the jig, this presented a problem when it came down to sanding the inside of the frames, they need to be tight so there is no rocking when sanding.
 
The problem was solved by using Spanions method which is to place elastic bands around each frame and fix to a point of your choosing, this holds the frames tight to the jig edge. I chose to drill the jig from the top and place round head pins in, the bands were then pulled tight around the pins, great,   until you don't pick the jig up by the sides, I now have nicely punctured finger tips.   
 
I glued the first 8 frames and when the glued had dried they were sanded down, I have one frame which is a little out of line and it was a case of either cut the Futtock Rider to fit or make up a new frame, I tried adjusting the Rider which worked well so that worked out ok. Once the first 8 frames were sanded I then fitted the final 4 frames and fared them down. There is a small rise in frames 9 to12 and they have to be sanded at a slightly different angle.
 
With the inside completed I turned my attention to the outside, first job was to mark the height, frames D1 TO 4 ( 9 frames ) are level and flat, frames 5 to 12 are sloped with frame 12 being the highest. There is still a fair bit of movement in the frames which needs to be reduced to virtually nothing, this was achieved by placing 2.5mm blocks between each frame at a point above the water line where the hull planking will cover them up, the tops of the frames were also blocked at this time, this also served to strengthen some of the weaker frames.
 
Next up was the Gunport Sills, Sweep Sills and Filling Lintels, more problems, these were down to my c--p joinery skills and not the drawing's. If I put the sills in place without any work they would end up looking like a mountain range, so measurements and levels were taken and out came the sanding sticks and files which were applied to the Port side. The Sills were the first to receive the treatment with new levels being made, most of the notches which had been pre-cut were sanded back, so with all the mistakes removed the Sills and Linings were added to the Gunports and Sweep Sills, The Filling Lintels were next to be attacked, as it happens they turned out to be quite easy to make and so in they went. A little more sanding and an acceptable finish was reached bearing in mind that this work will all be covered with planking. The Portside took 3 days to repair so I have the same to look forward to on the Starboard side.
 
Whilst waiting for glue to dry and the need to change tasks I made the following, Keelson, Mortar Pit Deck Clamps ( Upper and Lower Strakes ) and the Upper Deck Clamps ( Upper and Lower Strakes ). I also cut out on the scroll saw the Futtock and Floor riders, these are not finished yet because they will require fitting individually.
 
At this point I want to thank Grant for keeping me on the right track regarding the timber, I got a little confused with what timber to use and so consulted my mentor, things were explained and backsides kicked, thanks mate. At this point mate I decided to keep you on.     
 
I should imagine your about ready for some pics, if your not suicidal by now. 
 
Portside clamped up waiting for the glue to dry on the blocks

 
Just a few more clamps on the Starboard side.

 
This is Spanions method of holding the frames.

 
Profile of the frames prior to sanding down.

 
You can see the nature of my problem.

 
The finished Portside, bearing in mind it is to be planked over.

 
So there we are guys, your right up to date. Next job is to finish the Starboard side, fit the Keelson and work on the Futtock and Floor riders.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 

Hi Guys,
 
About time for an update, it's been a while.
 
Now what was I doing ? Ahh yes that's it, FRAMES,  well frame production is still going on all be it slowly what with the holidays and all but I'm pleased to say I only have 1 single ( 11 ) and 1 double ( 12 ) to do, they are all cut out and ready for final adjustments and making up.
 
Talking with Grant there has been a change in the method of holding these frames while being constructed, where I used pins to hold the pieces in place I am using Grants method using double sided tape.
 
This method allows for more frames to be made at once because no pin board is required, I only have a single pin board. I don't have a picture of the new method but should anybody want to see it Grant has posted some in his log. 
 
I also had a problem when the frames were placed direct onto the template in as much as I was getting ink in the joints when gluing the frames together, I got around this by using a piece of celotape over the template joint. This has cured that problem so all I need to concentrate on is getting a good fit with the wedges, (still trying to get them right ).
 
Grant and I were also discussing which finish to use because each stage will need to be finished before moving on. Minwax Satin seems to the favoured choice but unfortunately it's not sold in the UK, at least to my knowledge, so I thought I would use Tung oil, I applied some to a practice frame made from Swiss Pear and although it looked OK it is quite dark, I looked to see what is the UK equivalent to Minwax and it turned out to be Clear Polyurethane, I already had some of this and tried it out although it was gloss and I wanted satin, it's a lot lighter and does look better so another trip to the hardware store and that's now sitting waiting to be used.
 
I only have a few pics mainly because frames are frames and have been shown before.
 
My old system of frame holding

 
The next 3 pics are where I am at the moment

 

 

 
On the right is the Tung oil, left is Polyurethane

 

 
So that's it guys, a bit disappointing really, I will post again when all the frames are complete although there will still be a fair bit of work to do on them before moving onto the next stage.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
  

Hi Guys,
 
Time really flies and boy am I due an update.
 
Thanks for all the comments guys and for those that hit the like button.
 
I've experienced a bit of aggro fitting the frames into my jig, the jig seemed to be too big and the frames flopped around inside when fitted.
 
It turned out to be two things, firstly the top cut outs on the jig were deep and so did not hold the frames as it should, secondly my centre line on the jig was out of alignment, bearing in mind this was my first practice piece it's hardly surprising.
 
I was also having a bit of trouble with my glue, it just wasn't holding the 9 parts of each frame together. Following advice from my build partners I changed the glue and although it's early days this new glue seems to be doing the job.
 
The glue I was using was Ever Build 502 which stood me in good stead for the time I was building the Agamemnon, this glue only has a life of 12 months after the date of manufacture and unfortunately there is no date on it, anyway I got some Evo-Stik weatherproof wood adhesive, seems to be good stuff. 
 
The long and short of it is that a new Frame Jig was made, this time properly and it's now doing the business.
 
Both Grant and I differ on this next area, it's only athetics, I wont go into what Grants doing but I am not putting treenails in the frames. Looking at AOT's there are bolts around the bottom section of each frame, I decided to use 0.7mm oval head brass pins for these bolts with 0.7mm flat head brass pins on the revers side. I decided to leave these brass colour, you know me, that's the look I like.
 
Enough chat, I have a few pics showing you where I'm at, please, if you have any comments / remarks don't be afraid to ask or make suggestions. I'm here to learn.
 
The first two pics are of the new jig
 
 
These are the first 5 frames 0, A,  B, C and D, 0 and D frames are doubles

 
This is the 0 frame showing the bolts.

 
This is the jig with the 5 completed frame in position

 
So your right up to date now guys, destructive then constructive comments are always welcome.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 

First off let me say Hello to all the Lords of the Dark Side, your tolerance will be gratefully accepted.
 
I would like to give plaudits to Jeff Hayes of Hobbymills for superb quality materials, the timber really is first class, also to Jeff Staudt for a fine set of drawings.
 
A special thanks to Grant for all his hard work in working out the quantity of timber required and the different types, I just had to make some minor adjustments to the order. Below is a taster of the timber to be used.
 
 
 
As you are probably aware this is a group project build with Grant, Jack and myself, ( at the moment ), this the first scratch build for all of us apart from prefabricating kits parts that were not happy with and I think we've all done that.   
 
It would be great if others wanted to join in. We will be working in unison and posting in our own logs and this is the start of my log.
 
I started by practicing with my tools and would you believe it this framing jig appeared, as this was a practice piece and it didn't count towards the build but on investigation I found I hadn't got any more material I could use and so had to keep it.    
 
 
 
Following on from the jig, I started practicing on the frames themselves and I found out a few things I need to work on, 1st, Don't cut so close to the lines, give your self a bit of room. 2nd, Easy on the sanders, don't put so much pressure when sanding down and 3rd, It doesn't take much to remove the skin from the knuckles with a disc sander, this had been switched of and was slowing down, I helped it stop and found out how good my bandaids are.
 
I made a double frame but will not be using it, I can and will do better.
 
 
 
 
 
Following on from that I attempted the Keel, this is made up from 4 pieces, Ebony for the Keel, followed by Swiss Pear for the False Keel Upper and Lower and the Hog. This Keel looks difficult but in reality is quite simple, you just need to be accurate, a rabbet is cut into it when all the pieces are assembled. I was going to use my router for this but there is a deviation 2/3rds along it's length so this had to be cut by hand, I used my trusty Stanley knife carefully, (we have a history) and finished with a triangle file. Below is the completed practice keel
 
 
 
So, that's the start of my new log, if anyone has any questions please don't be afraid to ask Grant !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
 

Hi Guys, Thanks for the comments and remarks, always useful. Techtonic, I can see I'm going to have to be on my game if I want to make half a good job of her, I do build for myself so tend to run wild sometimes so every now and again I need to be reigned in.
 
The masts are not fitted permanently yet, I still have to stain then and fit them out, it's my intention to run with full sails, the material has been dyed cut and the sails made, just waiting for the boss to run them up on the sewing machine, not something she enjoys, but we have to crack the whip now and again dont we.
 
Next step for me is to step the masts and fix them in place, and then were coming to the part I hate, Ratlines, I get in a right old pickle doing them but its a must do job and can be made to help the ship look good.
 
Right, I hope you enjoy the pics, it's actually happened Grant.
 
Usual finish gents, comments and remarks always welcome, even suggestions.

Hi Guys, The center plank was left out because it is the center plank, otherwise known as the master plank, it is slightly wider and all deck calculations come from the plank. Most ships will have it built in, or so i'm led to believe. I'm open for correction if i'm wrong.
 
I have an up date to the log which I hope hope most will find interesting if not entertaining. I dont like the stern on this ship and as I was working on it I had it between my knees, (these are my third clamp). I must have put too much pressure on the ship because it disappeared from between my legs and hit the floor with a resounding thump, after having cooled down and let the air change color back something like normal I picked her up only to find the the Fore Peak had snapped off. The only way I was going to repair it was by cutting more of the peak away and cutting a new one, Iv'e never done this before but it's only because of the experience and advice over a long period that I took it on, no need to worry, it all came out well, the new Fore Peak looks ok.
The ship is coming together well and I'm making good progress on her, the hull is complete with all the chains plates on, looks ok.
Enough written word, it's picture time, dont forget I'm open to all comments good or bad, if you have a bad one the give me a suggestion as well.
 
mobbsie
 
 

Hi Guys, Thanks for the comments and remarks, always useful. Techtonic, I can see I'm going to have to be on my game if I want to make half a good job of her, I do build for myself so tend to run wild sometimes so every now and again I need to be reigned in.
 
The masts are not fitted permanently yet, I still have to stain then and fit them out, it's my intention to run with full sails, the material has been dyed cut and the sails made, just waiting for the boss to run them up on the sewing machine, not something she enjoys, but we have to crack the whip now and again dont we.
 
Next step for me is to step the masts and fix them in place, and then were coming to the part I hate, Ratlines, I get in a right old pickle doing them but its a must do job and can be made to help the ship look good.
 
Right, I hope you enjoy the pics, it's actually happened Grant.
 
Usual finish gents, comments and remarks always welcome, even suggestions.

Hi Sjors, The kits are ok in that most parts fit reasonably well, my beef with OcCre are the instructions or should I say the lack of them. There is so much guesswork involved with them I almost feel like a detective. Were getting there though, I must post a pictorial update soon but I'll bring you up to date.
 
All the deck furniture is on and I have an issue here, it appears that the cabins are out of scale to my anyway, the Bowspit is made up and fitted with just a few bits to go on, you know the sticky out bits that get broken to easily, they wont go on until ready for rigging. 
The fore mast and main mast are almost complete, they've been stepped but not completely fixed, still a fair ways to go and I have the added problem of having to fix the sails, should be fun.
 
So there we have it in a nut shell mate just a whistle stop info tour to bring you up to date.
 
Stay Safe
 
mobbsie