gieb8688

Bended and glued frames. They are from the pear strips. And begin planking the hull.
 
















 
The second and third frame has a wrong shape... Or maybe I make some mistake. Between frame and the plank are the small gap. But this is not the big problem. Some amount of the glue repaired this. The next problem is the first plank lenght. The lenght is about 0,1 mm less then needed.
 



















 
Regards,   Antanas
 
 

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 10 – Hull Fairing – Method 1  
 
As seen in some of the previous photos, there is quite a bit of wood to be removed from the spacers used in this framing method.  It is much like working on a solid lift type hull, but the numerous bulkheads make it very easy to accurately duplicate the original shape by merely removing wood down the each of the bulkheads then finishing it off to a smooth fair surface.
 
My natural response to this work was to use available carving tools to remove wood between bulkheads, followed by rasping and sanding.  This is a good method to use if you have the tools and the ability to keep then razor-sharp.  However, although I used this method on the starboard side, I wanted to offer a simpler process, using less expensive tools on the opposite side.  That second method will be described in the next part.
 
The first picture shows shavings being pared off the hull using a shallow curved gouge with hand pressure.
 

 
A solid anchoring of the hull is essential to allow two hands for this work.  The sharp gouge easily removes thin cross-grain shavings.  In the next picture a deeper gouge is being used with a mallet to chip off larger pieces of the extreme bevels near the stern.  Again, this requires the hull to be firmly secured.
 

 
After paring with the gouges the shape was further smoothed out with fine-cut rasps.  The curved rasp in the next picture was used on the concave surfaces.
 

 
A flat rasp was used on the convex hull surfaces as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The rasps used here are fine-cut Iwasaki® carving rasps.  This is not a job for the coarse hardware-store variety.  You can pay almost anything for a rasp.  These are good quality and reasonably priced.  The last step on this side was done with 120-grit sandpaper on Softsander® pads – as shown in the next two pictures.
 

 
The rasping and sanding bevel the plywood bulkheads as necessary to leave a smooth surface.  This involves trimming only the small side of the plywood shapes.  This point is indicated by feel as well as sight.
 

 
The above picture shows the finished and unbeveled sides and gives an idea of the amounts of wood to be removed.
 
This work went pretty fast, taking less than 2 hours for this side of the hull.  A second method will be shown on the port side in the next part.
 
Ed

Hi Mark,
 
2 comparisons with 64 and 74 guns.
 
-Observe the similutude between the pilaster, on yours and on the 74.
 
-Roughly, planking has 2 thickness.
 
For the 64 guns, 1729, in orange is the thickess and  in purple is thinner.
I would guess that 40 years later, although planking still has 2 thickness, they simplyfied the process.
 
For the 74 ,  in black, for the wales only, planking is thicker and in yellow, thinner.

Mobbsie, Peter - 
 
Yes, the decorative way the wale is fashioned in French ships is related to anchor stowage.  The French stiffened their longer, wider (compared to English designs) hulls by making their wales thicker and in several bands.  Between the bands the hull planking was thinner, creating a step up to the wale.  Where the anchor was hauled up for stowage the side point of the fluke could catch on it and rip up the wood.  So at the bow the thinner middle planking was exchanged for thicker stuff that created a smooth surface for the fluke to slide on.  Being French, where the thicker stuff ended, it was shaped in a stylish manner rather than just a functional end.
 
Here are two photos of the element from the QAR project
.


 
Hope that helps
 
Dan

Hi guys,
 
It's good to be back. I've finished the work that I need to bring in the bucks, now it's fun time.
 
I'm doing the ratlines now. I'll never forget how to do a clove hitch, there are well over 1000 of them. As I began I found that my tweezers were opening too far at times and stretching the ratlines above and below. By limiting them with tape I solved this. I forget the dia. right now, but I think the thread is about .015.
 
As I had finished this side I could finally put on the davits and hang the boats. The griping straps are of paper strengthened with acrylic gesso.
 
I found that very few tools have been needed. I'll show the later. I've been up all night so i'll get back to you this evening.
 
It's so good to be back, I've missed you all. I see Dan wrote. Hi buddy.
 
Bruce

As soon as the ratlines are done I will mount the davits and boats. Braces go over this area so I think it's time to put them on. Another thing to catch a finger on...
 
I have no pictures yet but I'm doing the ratlines. I quickly learned to use tape wrapped around the tweezers to limit the amount they open. They would damage the work when they opened.
 
For doing work shaping blocks I modified a set of tweezers. A lot of blocks are tiny at this scale. Some smaller than a grain of rice.  I'll try to remember to take a picture of them.
 
All the photos for a bit. I've a brass Fairfield coal drag conveyor and a stock pen to build to bring some money in. It kills me to have to take time off from the Lightning. I'll keep an eye though to reply to anyone.
 
Bruce

The spanker boom and gaff rigged in place. Using the correct different sizes of rigging bring on the appearance of reality. Seeing the blocks in place is bringing the ship to life for me. Just as doing the rigging on my oil paintings brings the ship to iofe for me.
 
I took a piece of brass tubing and ovaled it out to wrap my coils of line around to be put on the belaying pins. A touch of white glue fixed their positions.
 
 
OH! I forgot to tell you, the flying jib boom is made of brass. The wooden one would have broken. I kept bumping the brass one. Next ship at 1/8 scale I'll do more of this.
 
Bruce

It felt great to finally put on the spreaders. Waiting to put them on until now allowed me to position the length and spread correctly. Putting them on too early could have resulted in a bad fit.
 
They are made of brass also. Another thing I wanted to mention is the use of bullseyes instead of deadeyes here. This is correct for the period.
 
Time to spend some time with the wife, I'll post more later.
 
Bruce

Hi guys,
 
Here are some pics of the upper masts and most of the stays on.  She wasn't a lofty ship as launched. The Brits added more when they took delivery, McKay gave her an extra wide rig instead, with the main yard being 95 feet long. I feel that he wanted to get power this way, maybe to minimize heeling as she was a passenger ship. Any of your views on this would be interesting.
 
Bruce

still finding my feet again as i well and truly get back into the build
 
made the spiritsail yard and placed my first line onto the build, hopefully it will still be there tomorrow unless i am told the error of my ways and do it all over again
 

 
going by the plans (well that was a stooooopid mistake I drilled the holes but the line fouls the lower cheek so a few holes to patch up - i dont see any other way around it

Many thanks Patrick and Mick,
and all the "like this" button activators...
 
 
Patrick,
Thanks for your appreciation, I took her off the board this afternoon and was delighted of the work so far, a straight symetric and light hull like it should be. All the overstanding frame hights will be removed (cut off) and the upper deck stringers put on. The slot places are integrated alrteady when I cut the frames
I am including some pics of this milestone moment....
 
 
Mick,
Thanks for your words ,..
For plating I shall use self-adhesive aluminium foil stripes which will be ponced from the rear side to resemble the riveting
Before the plating comes on, there is still some filler application work to be done, and several semi-round rails must be attached to the ouside hull skin.
 
 
 

 
removed from the board and put on the upper end-cap plank 180° around the stern.
Stb aft view...
 
 

 
stb front view
 
 

 
view into the aft ship hull. The outcuts for the deck stringers can be seen here
 
 

 
 
 

 
the "deck-beam" upper lnes are pre cut, so only the outer sides of the frames need to be cut. In this way the decks will have a positive curvature in width direction
 
 

 
one of the three lock-nut devices for the stand`s pedestal-spindles (through the keel and anchored in the "backbone" )
   
 

 
removing some old hardened glue drops out of the hull

She is now defuzzed,and I have made  a start on  sorting out the rigging .
 
Tony
 
Current build .Santa Maria-Amati bashed.
Restoring  Bounty, Victory, Scotish Maid, Unknown.
Waiting Royal Caroline
Finished Mayflower AL Bashed.
 
Now longe moote thou sail by the coste, Sir gentil maister, gentil maryneer 
                                                                                                                           Chaucer.

Thank you gentlemen.
 
No I don't,both the Bounty and the Victory are del prado so its from whenever they where published.
 
Yes Bob,I believe its called a Senior citizen moment.
 
I use different size brushes and a hair dryer.
 
She is now dusted, and I have now started cleaning the old glue off the pieces that have come adrift.
 
Tony
 
current build -Santa Maria-Amati-bashed
restoring -Bounty-Victory-Unknown-Scottish Maid.
waiting- Royal Caroline.
 
This is how she is at the moment 
 
                                                                                           
 
 
 
 

Okay I received my Model Shipways kit this morning and this is some huge kit.   I have big hands but I think I'll be able to handle working with this one.  I've been doing a lot of reading and after getting some definitions straightened out, I think I'm ready to begin.  I am really impressed with the quality of this kit. (and I can understand the instructions too). .   I'm starting off with some basic photos. . .namely the package as I received it.  You can tell I'm not a salt at this because those who have completed a lot of kits don't bother with any photos until they are into the build. .  not me, I'm proud of every step. .  I might even break the record for the number of photos taken of a build.  I built a 10 foot work bench. . installed some good lighting and magnifiers. .  then I promptly opened up all the plans in the house. . .  my wife was very impressed to say the least.   I spent the first 5 or 6 hours laying out the parts on the plans and marking the reference lines, bearding lines, center lines,  and rabbet lines on the parts from the plans. . .  I read a lot of the helps that are posted on the Model Ship World tutorial page and I must say there are some very smart and helpful people on this website.  
 

Thank you both, I will certainly be asking for help very soon. There is no doubt that it is very difficult to get accurate results with just hand tools plus it is time consuming. I decided I needed a scroll saw and a disc sander. I bought the Dremel scroll saw but the disc sanders were just too expensive. The problem was solved when my neighbour gave me a jigsaw, an old single speed drill and a bag full of sand papers, I would make a homemade disc sander!
I put a cap on £15 in term of costs so I used whatever I had in the garage. The end result functions almost flawlessly. I had to find a way to reduce the speed but as this old drill has a universal motor it just needed a £1.5 rheostat. It has a 200 mm plate and it is not rally too noisy. Total cost was around £11.
I had to cut up the old lofting table though to reclaim the MDF. Serves it right for being inaccurate though.

Gil, I couldn't resist but from the day of the baptizing of your Victory I have some pictures.
Everyone let me introduce the builder of this magnificent ship.
The following four pictures is from his ship and the detailing he put in to this.

After mutterings from the Memsaab Iv put the Santa Maria to one side and started  some more tidying up.This time its the Bounty.
                                                                            

Iv put the unknown model on hold till I get some information.So Iv started on the Scottish Maid,the only problem is their are some bits missing.Can anybody give me the size of the wheel?


















Tony

Current build, Santa Maria- Amati-bashed

Restoring, Victory, Bounty, Scottish Maid,Unknown.

Previous build,Mayflower,AL -bashed
 

Every thing is now clear,just got to put it back together.Still don't know what its called,perhaps I should put it on name that ship.
 
Tony
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I think I hadpressed the wrong button
 
Tony
 
current build Santa maria -Amati- bashed
 
previous build Mayflower -AL.

I never did get back to show the finished article.
But it all went to plan and I have been using it for a few months.
It does help keep my workbench clear of debris but I still have my hand tools close at hand.
Here are some photos.
 

 
The tool tray that sits on the top
 

 
The tray lifts off to access a cutting mat below.
 

 

 

 

 

 
It has some fittings to hold the little jig I use for seizing blocks etc.
 

 
And the whole thing is low enough to roll under my workbench to keep things tidy when I'm done.
 
Nick

Фотосессия. С отделкой корпуса при ярком солнечном свете. Снятый на профессиональной камерой. Наконец исполнение соответствуют действительности. И это хорошо.

Я готовлю для изготовления канатов такелажных.
Природный решение и, следовательно, естественную текстуру и цвет

work with the hull completely finished

Now the ship is on its "legs"