Mike Y

I use the same method as Amalio, same nylon brushes (discovered it by accident), and it works great! Especially on half-dried glue.
It is just much faster and simpler than water. But water works better in tight areas, for sure. Especially water plus scraping with some xacto blade.

Looks fantastic as usual! You set a high bar! 

Please please please share your finish technique!
Each photo is an eye candy for perfectionists! Everything is aligned, no gaps, clear joints, brilliant!

Amalio, are you applying any finish? Oil? Varnish? It looks like a natural wood!

The inside of the hull looks already faired! So precise!

It is just perfect in all aspects!

Nice frame factory!
what are those squares in the middle of each frame assembly?

Just a few cents  
 
The best way to think about it is "put yourself into others shoes".
 
First problem is simple and technical: it's impossible to find your build log link. Even in this topic, where some may be encouraged to have a look - there is no link in your signature. I honestly thought "oh, sure, let's have a look and maybe I can help a bit" - but no, it would take too much clicks just to find it.
See https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23663-how-do-you-add-links-to-your-build-logs-under-your-signature/
 
Second - make sure your question is asked clearly, and preferably with photos. Keeping correct terminology is pretty hard, especially for a beginner, so just using words is not the best idea. For example - I found your topic on deck cutouts, but it's pretty hard to really understand without any pictures. What are these "cutouts"? How are they located in relation to masts and so on? 
A lot of people would either guess what you mean or just move over to another question, because it takes too much efforts to decode. 
 
Third consideration is a bit harsh, and I am not sure how to put it in a very neat terms - but first big heap of initial modelling knowledge is acquired mostly by reading other logs. Majority of newbie questions were already asked bajillion times, there are FAQs, manuals, tutorials and so on spread over MSW.
Even with best intentions, it slowly gets old to explain the very same thing for a dozen times, so people loose motivation to help.
I cringe when I read some of my first questions, I want to travel back in time and slap myself "just read the manual one more time before asking!". Using this moment to thank everybody who was helping!  
Ignore the particular vessel, just pick the build log where the build process is shown, not just the end result. Some logs are very educating, you will learn a lot from reading them. Basic techniques are the same. Do not hesitate to go to scratch build logs - there are fewer of those, but often they are very detailed and educating. 
 
The balance is delicate. Please do not be shy to post your updates and your logs! Everybody is welcome.
But think about it like a giant dance event. You come through the doors and you are in a crowd with thousands of people. They are open and a lot are keen to teach you and dance with you. But first you need to watch a few tutorials on basics, and then just start a small talk to get familiar with some of them. Make yourself friendly and available (see - build log signature). They are under no obligation to help you, but also there is physically no time to dance with everybody. You need to stand out of the crowd just a little bit, to make sure you will be noticed.
 
Good luck, and hope you will find your way and join one of the friendliest and constructive communities in the internet! 
 
 
 

Fantastic!

It was a pleasure to follow, your website is now my goto link for people interested in modelling!
Looking forward to follow your next project!

I really wish to become 48 times smaller for an hour to crawl inside this amazing replica. Tom is right, you are building a piece that is above the average museum quality!

Amazing website! An excellent way to show our hobby to an outsider. Also because linking to the build log directly is not possible (photos are not available for non-registered visitors), but now you have an external source. Bravo!

Oh wow, now it is clear how huge the model is! Have you weighted it?
 
Also, what is your feedback on that LED lights in the display case? I was always worried that a cold white light will make model look more flat and pale than it really is. But your photos show a nice deep rich color. What are those LEDs? Would appreciate some information!

Your build process looks and feels very real! Like building a house, or even a real ship!

As a user of an adjustable table with the motor, I adjust it all the time... Different operations require different distance, and instead of bending to the table - I can just adjust the table a bit. Also working while standing is more convenient sometimes.
 
I have the IKEA electric table, model name BEKANT. Works great, with very little wobble (heavy table top helps as well). The least wobbly of all the desks I tried. Note that they sell it with or without table top, so you can buy the base itself, and mount some thicker table top, more suitable for modelling other than office work. IKEA have some hardwood tops that are pretty cheap as well. 
But I would not dare using a hammer / mullet on that table, since that might damage the mechanisms inside the telescopic legs.
The hand-cranked desk they have (model name SKARSTA) is built much cheaper and lighter, it is less stable and have a considerable wobble. 
I see that they have released a new line - IDÅSEN. A bit more expensive, only one size, different construction. Haven't tried it yet, just spotted on the website.
 
I have it for probably 5 years. Once some electrics broke, it simply stopped working. IKEA mailed me a few replacement parts and then delivered a new table, no questions asked.. Not sure if they have the same level of service in US though.
After that replacement, it worked with no issues. I guess some early versions had their faults (I bought it the same year it was released), but hope they fixed them now.
Here is the final setup I ended up with. The combination of an inset vise + pegs allows me to quickly fix the model and work on it without holding.
Note that the table is lifted to some sort of mid position here. Making fine continuous adjustments is very neat, I would not recommend to have a table that you can only adjust rarely to some fixed positions.
 

Nope, no pile and hence no drum sander. I will probably start as you with a sanding drum and from the look of it the sanding sleeve should come right off which means easy going between grits.
We'll see what I can dream up... stay tuned.
Apart from dreaming about tools work is kind of slow with the carlings. Mast partners are in and a couple for skylights. The photo below is a couple of pieces old.
If you look closely you can see that I've tested a couple of different notch types. Right now I'm towards full width and full depth, unless the pieces are of same moulded size (depth/thickness...).
If the pieces are of same dimension I'll leave a ledge for the carling to sit on and cut a matching step out of the bottom of the carling (3), instead of doing a slanted joint (1). No 2 is what I used for the main hatch and for the main mast partners in the picture below. No 3 is actually easiest to get a good looking joint for me.


Cheers!
 

A'hoy! Time for another update. I was constantly being interrupted out in the shop today so I finally gave up.
(Annoying, but it might have something to do with it being my birthday today).
So, deck beams.
I came to think that a drum sander with a fence could have been used for final thickness of the beams. But, I don't have one (yet).
All beams are in place. On the real ship they are fastened with a single bolt in center, so I intend to mimic that with a tree nail. 0.8 or 1.0 mm, but have decided yet.
Care was taken so the beams sat perfectly 90 degrees to center line using the gantry and a stiff paper board as reference. The scale gave the distance to forward perpendicular line and that measurement was taken from the elevation plan.

It payed off, the eye is sensitive to misalignment and there is none. 🙂 


Next up are carlings surrounding the hatches and mast openings. I started with the main hatch. The original drawing calls for dove tails, but that is above my current skill level, so I aimed for a recessed joint instead. Also, birch is kind of soft, and apple would probably been easier, but that is for next project.
It was around here today that all interruptions came so I'm more than happy with the outcome 🙂 


Thanks for likes and comments! Always appreciated 🙂 
 

Since I today was under influence of "fumble fingers" I thought I'd better update this space.
Thanks to all that browse by and leave a like or a comment 🙂 
Deck beams it was...
Curvature is given as 180mm "rise". Using the sw it was quite easy to draw a circle that fitted the given parameters. Print out and stick to some scrap pieces.
My take was to manufacture two sanding jigs, one convex (upside of beam) and one concave (under side of beam). 
All beams are 200 wide and the moulded size goes in step from 180, 175 down to 150 mm. Some in-between beams are 140 both measurements.
This scales down to 6,7 wide and 6, 5.8 and 5 mm high (moulded) beams.
Birch is the wood.
The pictures roughly cover the process...
First shape is sanded below. And the sanding moulds can be seen also. 120 grit paper. Quick work since I use a narrow 6 tpi bandsaw blade.

Part a beam off the stock. A narrow guide aids so arcs can be sawn easy both ways.

Next upside-to-be is sanded.

I managed up to three beams of every blank. When all beams were cut and upside sanded, focus turned to under side. Now 80 grit paper due to more needed off.
I quickly abandoned holding the beam with fingers, instead ripped off the sandpaper from the other mould and glued some guide pieces to keep the beam in place. No picture.
Then it was much more comfortable to sand all the 28 pieces. Constant measuring was needed as well.

Here the shipwright inspects. (actually taken before the underside was sanded)

Next fun little project was the aft whatever-it-is-called big piece of timber.

And here it has come some way. Actually version 2... version 1 lies above the pen on the board.

Til next time, cheers!
 

Thanks for likes and comments 🙂 
And as promised, here are the last two pieces of the beam shelf. I didn't get the shape entirely correct on the starboard one, but it will be covered by the deck, so no big deal.
Port side.

and starboard side

There is also a check seen, but since the piece didn't go "crack" when bent in place (steamed first) I let it be.
And an overall shot as well.

That will be all as far as the interior goes. Beam shelf and two stringers.
On the real ship there were a couple of stringers at the turn of the bilge apart from the slats to cover the frames.
Next up will be deck beams. But that is for another day.
 
Cheers!

Thank you Tony and others that have "liked" 🙂 
Work continued... not so much to read here today so I'll just treat the audience with some progress pictures.



And here in the last photo are some cro-moly "treenails" that won't shear anytime soon...

Yup, drill bits. It all went really well until.. Never mind, I'm quite well stocked with drill bits for the moment.
Pax et bonum, friends!
 

Well, Christmas eve is passed and handled. Unfortunately only half of the family showed up. The other half, with the two small fairies had +39 degree of fever and stayed at home. We all live in the same village so there will other opportunities to meet. 
 
Progress on Atlantica has overall been decent. Last week the traditional Christmas concert was ticked off, and all the practices leading up to it did slow down the build a bit, but now there is more time since I have taken a couple of days off as well.
As stated previously, after 4 strakes each side, focus turned to the inside of the hull.
In the picture below starboard side is done and I also show all the various sanding blocks I used.
Started off with 100 grit paper, then 150, 180 and finally 240. The block in the center of the picture, black, long rectangular shape is the preferred one. It is actually a rubber mat, ca 4 mm thick. It is stiff, but bends and therefore follows the shape of the hull.
At the inside of the stern I used the Proxxon with a sanding drum attached.
Attention then moved to the port side, but I will probably revisit the starboard side later on.


Oh, and then I dived down a rabbit hole...
One of the frames was a bit wiggly so I decided to practice some treenailing... The hull will be painted and I made a small test piece and was happy with the result. 
Marking the center line of each frame, the using an awl to indent where the "bolt" will go. Without the indentation the drill bit is prone to wander which leaves an ugly result.
Finally drilling with my Proxxon and a 0.8 mm drill bit. I also made a small collar to fit on the drill bit, limiting its depth capacity to ca 5,5 mm. That was done after I drilled through on a couple of occasions. Tree nails are of bamboo and glued with CA.

Thanks for likes and comments!

So, first bit of planking is underway.
I have gradually removed the pine-boards to get more access. For the first strake I left them on, but once no2 was in place I pried them away. The stanchions will be sand so don't worry about the glue residue.
One thing I remember about planking is that it is necessary to work on both sides interchangeably. Otherwise the hull will end up with the form of a latin gondola...
Then about the workplace, I do most of the work on the center island standing. For me it is easier to move around. Of course it comes down to personal preference.
Having the hull upright while planking made it hard to see how the planks lined up and fitted against each other. For sanding purposes I put together a simple horizontal hull-holder with the "shape" removable by screws. But, since swapping the hull from side to side is done a couple of times per session I made one more. 
Now I just can flip the hull over and work on the other side. It is also really easy to see all contact points and get a good fit.
 
Two complete bands done and no3 is started.

When no4 is in place attention will move to the inside and prepare for the deck.
 

So, let's see how the first run of the planks turned out, shall we?
 
The complete run of planks is four pieces, which is what the Danes used on the real one. The after most needed some persuasion to get into shape (and really, don't we all? 😉 )
To make the piece more negotiable I used my home made steam box. 5 minutes in the Finnish sauna and let sit overnight and it was bent like an old salt.
 
Here below you see the port piece being glued while the starboard one is persuaded to sit tight.

Another angle

And here are two shots from different perspectives. This is before any trimming, which is evident is needed. 


In the last photo the starboard piece is glued in place. A small wedge is used to force last little tip up against the hull.
Also, it is a good picture showing how the entire rear end is filled with timber. The real shipwrights had the argument that they couldn't be bothered trying to calculate where each plank ended, so they filled it with timber. 

Hi Håkan,
I've been led here by route of your supportive comments on my log.
What a beautiful build you are doing, and what a fine example of joinery work; I too like that boat type and will continue to follow your progress.
Sorry you're also having to fight the 'C' battle at the same time, best wishes to you.
 
B.E.
 

Haha, thank you @KeithAug for the laughter of the day!
No, I didn't get too excited, just you know, like normal excited 😛 
 
Anyway, thanks for the likes so far.
Planking, yes. But after a second thought I checked in with the book. After framing the shipwrights put on the four topmost strakes. After that the deck structure went in and after that planking.
So... that's how I am going to do it. I think.
First the bollard timbers though. For them to line up properly I partly cut the rabbet in the stem, then glued stiff paper as guides and then it was just down to sanding, testingfitting, more sanding, more testfitting and so on.
 



Next picture is a good deal of hours later. Rabbet is cut in the stem, frames are faired, now all I need is planks...

To be able to get a satisfactory result you need to be able to secure the object. Be it a piece of a frame or the entire hull structure. And also be able to see, i.e. lighting!
Initially I cut the rabbet with the hull upright on the slipway. Not ideal since it was awkward and I obscured the light with my hands. After a good nights sleep I came up with a better idea.
Not only can I secure the hull to the holder, the support itself is secured to the slipway. See next picture below.


And it is easy to flip over the pattern to match work on port side since it is screwed on top of the 2by4.
Then, about planks... in the picture above lies a bunch of planks, 3x9", and scale length 250mm. All in all 8 planks per strake and 23 strakes, plus the garboard which will be wider. That is 184 planks + the garboards. Oh my. Better start ripping... 😄 
I will cut the rest to about 300mm length, even though that is beyond the scale. Reason is to have some millimeters to spare when laying out the pattern.
The keen eyed viewer will recognize the plank below as birch and that will be used for all but the garboard and rubbing strakes (the 4 topmost). These exceptions will be of apple.

Pax et bonum, fellows!