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About Wintergreen

  • Birthday 01/21/1969

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Åtvidaberg, Sweden
  • Interests
    ship modelling, bike riding, wood working

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  1. One does not fully appreciate the size of this model until you let it linger beside an enormous iron or, like on the previous page chuck in a ruler. One nothing else is present in the pictures it is easy to forget that it's only like 6.5" or some 135mm long. I have but one word - Amazing skill (oh, that was actually two words, well well)
  2. Bowsprits can have they're back end fastened between to sturdy vertical bits. But design varies of course. As for filler, I would use fine filler from the hardware store. The one you use for covering up nails in trimmings and such. Usually sold in plastic tubes.
  3. I think it's twofold if you should leave the planking or rip it off. Leaving it on pays credit to your sons work and it doesn't look that bad from what I can see in the pictures. Putty, sanding and paint and will all look splendid. If you rip it off, where to end the "rebuild"? 😉 As for planking stock I have no real input. My next ship will be planked with birch but it all depends on what is available and cost.
  4. I would say - be careful. At this scale too much detailing can look overworked however authentic it is. Best to do is make a section of planking and try out a couple of different techniques with finishing and all. Then you can tell which one you like the most (or the least). The hulk looks promising, keep it up!
  5. 1.1. Preparing for lofting frames To address the issue of “Lines to outside of planking” work started over. The body plan was traced yet again, this time with correct width or breadth. To move all station lines to inside of planking the offset function was used. It creates a line offset by the distance you type in, taking into account curves and all. There is however one disadvantage with the offset, or any of the other “line copy” functions. It creates a line with a myriad of nodes, or control point. Se picture below with the traced line and then the line created w
  6. Honestly John, I have no idea. Busy doing chores probably? So what do I need to do, call you 😉 Jokes aside, thank's for popping by. Much appreciated. note2self - check up that ant's pyjamas 😏
  7. That was quick going! Did you build it in just about 4 weeks? Incredible. And a interesting alteration with guns and Jolly Roger 🙂 Well done!
  8. Not to speak about a regular carpenters workbench... designed for right-handed people. You could of course build your own like Mark (Sjsoane), but that is taking it to another level. I've trained my right side so I practically can do almost everything that way. It does not feel that comfortable though. Apart from brushing ones teeth hadn planing is the hardest. Especially edges and bevels.
  9. Well you know the saying @druxey, that prominent people arrive late 😉 You're most welcome. There are refreshments in the kitchen and enjoy your stay 😁
  10. Just stumbled upon your thread here. That planking is seriously good! Well done, mate! As for the order of building, like you did with full width deck beams for rigidity is just the way. Frames and hulls can be delicate business and anything that makes them more rigid during building is a welcome addition. Also the framing of the cockpit looks spot on. Keep it up!
  11. A 28 ft cutter at 1:48 - that will be kind of tiny. But then again, what else to except from an expert 😉 I will follow with interest. The hull looks promising judging from the drawing. Also, from what I can see I guess it will be carvel planked?
  12. iieeeewww, those gory buckets of ...remnants. Spot on! Even the smudges on the decking 🙂 And that small, green tarp wrapped over something. All wrinkely and worn. So good. Didn't see that before. Keep it up!
  13. That makes sense @wefalck, definitely no tar (self explanatory in fact). Albeit, about the kåg, it was a work boat so I have little faith in that they were meticulously kept. Maybe I'll give them a light wash. But before any painting there is a rubrail to add. After that comes variious hardware and the rudder.
  14. Building continues. Focus last couple of days was to permanently glue the inwale. But before that the masts needed to dealt with. The fore mast sits at the after edge of the main thwart and the mizzen mast is just stepped through a hole in the last thwart. Both masts have a peg or tenon at the bottom end. Both masts stands unsupported by shrouds and stays. Dimension are as follows. Main mast - length 25', diam at thwart height 5½", diam at top 3". That translates to 254 mm x 4,7 mm and 2,5mm. Mizzen mast - length 19', diam at thwart 4". Translates to roughly
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