42rocker

5 posts pass through the taffrail. 
The angle for the piercing is determined by tracing the angle on a block set on the vice as  seen on the second photo.

My last Experience: Focus Stacking
 
When focus is done on an object, the focus is done at an exact distance. This depth of field is  very limited especially with large opening like F4 by example.
There is a way to increase that depth of field: in manual focus, take a photo, readjust focus 1 clic or 2  forward, take a photo and 4-5 times like this.
In photoshop, you open these photos  a pile  and merge them in one photo.
 
In the example, the result will show a greater depth of field than F22  could give.
 

Possibly a good reading about copyright in UK for the photos:
 
https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/copyright-notice-digital-images-photographs-and-the-internet
 
 

Few years ago when I decided to try cherry  wood instead of pearwood, it was not clear if
this wood was suitable for the task. In Europe, pear wood is a common tree, in Canada, pear wood is very expensive, but cherry wood is very much affordable. Workability of pear and cherry woods are very similar. For planking, pear wood is often use but it has no grain pattern. At the opposite, cherry wood has many grain patterns but not all of them are suited for the task, especially when the grain runs perpendicular to the length of the plank.
 
If we understand this  simple rule : ‘’The grain pattern must runs parallel to the length of the plank’’,  then I believe that cherry wood can be a good choice for the model ship builders.

Alde, you must try it, you will be surprise of what you can do!

Carl, I surely will not give you an english lesson because it is not my primary language.
You ask a good question and I do not really know the answer.
 
At first sight, I would say that it is not possible.
In fact, I do not think that it is what I do.
Here is how I see it: 
It is like to transfer a 2D drawing on a 2D paper, the work is only in 2D. No measures are taken for the third dimension; depth.
 
 
I remade the lines with more precision. Still have to check the lines.
 
Height between decks is not the same for each one. In a house, usually all the height of ceilings are at the same height, but apparently not on the french 74.
 
I traced in red, on the drawing, parallel lines to the keel at the lowest point of decks around at  the middle. Overall, I would separate decks in 2 : fore and aft.
 
The fore part are parallel to the keel.
The aft part is much higher and in angle.
I think that the engineers at that time were bright. I am imagining the next sentences, so I do not know if it make sense or not :
Aft volume is smaller than the front half.
When in water, aft part is deeper than the front one. I always thaught that it was because it was heavier but I do not really know why. May be because of the lest, may be because a bigger volume will float more! I have never tried it but I guess that if I put 1 ton of lest fore and 1 ton of lest aft, aft part would be deeper because of the volume effect.
 
But anyway, aft part being shifted deeper and fore half being shifted higher, the height difference on decks become  more equal fore and aft. Where there was  almost no height difference at the fore parts we now have more.
Water from both ends now flows better  towards each end, and this is the camber. We can see it on the last drawing; before and after.
 
I also tried to see the optical effect of a curve line and a kinked one at the bow, but did not get good results.
That is enough dreaming for today.

The simple answer is Steel is for English ships (he was contemporary with them) and Boudriot (who did historical) is French.  Two different methods involved.  So for an English ship, use Steel.  For French ships (unless they were captured and the plans are from the NMM) use Boudriot.
 
Disclaimer:  This is my perception and I could be wrong.  If I am, please correct me.

Hi Dave,
 
Spacers are temporary, they hold by pressure only, installed from 1 end toward mid ship

Hello,
 
I have not read any particulars on this subject, but I imagine that the limber-way must exist since ships exist. 
In different forms perhaps, but it is necessary to drain the waters in one way or another.
 
GD

Hello,
 
The tracing of the limber way is not the result of hazard or an approximation, it must be placed according to very precise rules.
 
(I hope that the translation of my text will be correct and understandable.)
First of all, it must always be placed in the middle of a strake to avoid disturbing the caulking of the shell, the oakum (tow ?) of which would inevitably block the channel when it’s in place. When it encounters the strake end, what happens at one time or another, an iron plate is placed under the joint.
The limber way must collect, under normal conditions, any infiltration water but especially the condensation water that forms in the hull (in the case of large waterways it no longer serves anything). To collect these "small waters", it’s imperative to be worked in a place where these waters can arrived, that’s means where the fills between the keel and the keelson leave a space forming receptacle. To cut the limber way in the deadwood as seen in a picture above is useless, technically and historically inexact.
In the central part of the vessel, the channel is located beneath the second strake curtain of which it follows the course. As it moves towards the ends, there is a place where the shapes of the hull begin to intercept the foot of the fills placed between the keel and the keelson causing the hole drilled at the foot of these fills to be raised. These holes passing through the foot of the fills must do their job, if covered by the planking, they are useless. The channel must be raised accordingly in order to collect the water present there without intercepting a strake caulking. It is then shifted from a strake of planking in height or two a few times.
 
GD

Here is another comparison: a  macro 100mm vs a wide angle 40mm. A 40mm is not a macro lens, but if we can increase the distance between the camera and the lens, we will have a new macro lens. This is possible by adding Kenko Extension tube. Price of 40mm+ 3 tubes: 1/3 of 100mm.
 
Here are the results of the figurehead of the 74 guns at 1/192 scale. The diameter of the figure head is about 1/4 of a small finger.
 
Photo 1   Lens macro 100mm,  lens 40mm+ 3 extender tube : 12+ 20+ 36mm  
Photo 2   Lens 40mm
Photo 3   Lens 100mm
Photo4    Lens 40 mm + 3 extension tubes

Very good eye pat, too large too high
Anomaly comes clear to the eyes with comparisons.

Traveling on a straight surface yes, traveling on a curve, it is harder to be guided by both sides especially if the radius is changing but for a constant radius it could be a good thing.

For about the tenth time since I built the table top I redone it, most of the time for different try  for the color. Last week, I cut  about 6 inches in the depth and today I straitghtened the top because there was some curves in it. I used a long ruler, a  plane, a scraper, a sanding belt, an orbital sander. The result is good but up to today I was stuck with the idea that only a large belt sanding panel machine could do the job. Some time it is strange how we can limit ourself.

dry assembly of the keel, long process of adjust and check
last picture beginning of assembly

Mike, you are right about the glass, this one is an ordinary glass and can act  sometimes like a mirror and this we do not want.
Anti reflection glass would be much better.
 
There are 2 levels of protections; the first one, more visual than protecting from the dust, a movie screen and the second one a light fabric. For this case a glass would be expensive and mostly too heavy to manipulate.

Mike , here how it looks behind the movie screen.

Yes, the IKEA table BEKANT is great, I still love it as on the first day I bought it  Note that IKEA sells the electrical frame separately as well, so you can put any solid tabletop on it, and not being limited to the default office-style top.
 
Just a few corrections:
1) The one with cranking mechanism have a much cheaper frame and wobbles too much for our purposes, I think. Could be good enough for drawings or tools, or if you do not mind the wobble. The electrical (bekant) is very stable and the wobble is close to non-existing, so it can be used as a main workbench.
2) The electrical one (BEKANT) has a continuous adjustment, not just 2 or 3 positions. There are two buttons - up and down - that allow to adjust it to any position between min and max. Just hold the button, table moves, release it when you are in the desired position. It is roughly 5-7sec from the lowest to the highest position.

COMPONENTS OF A FULLY OPERATIONAL ROPE MACHINE WHICH CONTROLS EVERY ASPECT
 
I have seen many versions of rope machine on this forum. There are many ways to fabricate a machine but I think that there are some basics principles which need to be respected to obtain a rope with all the necessary qualities like tension, number of turns, stiffness of the rope. To turn a rope is just a matter to have some components and understand  why they are used. 1 of the most common missing item is the swivel bearing. It controls the number of turns entering in the fabrication of the rope, it regularizes the number of turns entering by eliminating the surplus of turns by a balancing action.
 
3 photos: swivel bearing, explanation of the parts of the machine, extract from .xls file to predict rope diameter.

Hi Pat, 
 
often when a large number of items  are required,  if by example 10  item requires 5 operations 
you can proceed 2 ways:
you make 1 item at the time with the 5 different operations  
you make 1 operation 10 times
 
in both situation, you will do 50 operations
Ii this  case, because more than 1 type of sander is needed (oscillating and belt sander)
time is saved in concentrating operations on 1 machine instead of changing constantly of machine
 
1 part of the efficiency comes from saving of walking steps from 1 machine to the other
also concentrating on 1 operation at the time, it is easier to succeed and master 1 operation at the time instead of constantly  changing
better results can be achieved in trying to master 1 operation at the time rather than to trying to master all the operations at the same time

Roughly,  62 frames are made of 1000 parts, each part has 4 sides to sand.
The setup is as follow : inside curve, ends, outside curves.
Then the tracing paper is remove with a scraper. A faster method is to pass the parts in the sanding drum, This machine is quite precise, much more than a planer because the adjustment can be made in 0,001 inch increment.
 
Frames part are divided in 3 groups : left, center and right components.
Left and right are put aside to keep the center parts which are going to be use to prepare the keel.
 
 
 
 
 

Druxey, you are right  about rigging. In fact, the higher we have to work on an object the more useful come this table.
 
Maurys, the chair came from the dentist  but he did not gave the chair.  
 
Aviaamotor, you mist 1, there are 2. By adding angle to the support bench, we can keep the object very close to the ground.
 
Denis, the size  will be 8 feet long, exactly as in the last picture, which is also a 74 at 1/24. Even an adult could be put inside the model.
 
 
 

Thank you very much Pat, effectively, some process are very long to elaborate. I will explain an example in answering vossiewulf question.
 
The first model  at 1/24 was made on a low table which was even lowered later. The main disadvantage of a table is a fixed height. I wanted to find a better solution. Next step was a beauty chair with an oil cylinder. That was an improvement with a limited height adjustment but the  horizontal stability was not great. Legs were added to help. But still I was not satisfied. There had to be a better way.
 
Jewelers work on height adjustable table. This photo allowed me to enter in a new world to help to work ‘’in the better position’’. Working on the model at the wrong height is much more tired. I had to find a better height adjustable table.  I thought to a electric dentist chair. If  the back is expanded horizontally,  you have a good base to install a table. There are 2 adjustments on the table height and angle 0 to 45 degrees. On internet, in Quebec we have Kijiji who sell all kinds of used things. There I found a used dentist chair for about $500.  I am very satisfy with this new table. The only modification I did I changed the color blue to white, I prefer the look.
 
Then this chair brought me to the next step by making me to understand that working at the good height makes a lot of difference and it is a lot easier to work and you can work  for a longer period of time. When I began the first model at 1/24, I did a small table to be use a work bench charged with tools. It became very heavy so  tools were separated from the table. All the small tools for model ship modeling were regrouped in a same place, a chest with lower drawers to lose as less space as possible.
 
Then, only one thing was missing, a height adjustable workbench. I found a mechanism on Internet for an height adjustable table it can lift 300 pounds, around 150 kilos. I made a top for it.  All these big tools often needs to be moved at the good place to work. If I have to go 100 times to the sanding belt, I do not want to have to walk 10 feet every time, I want to have the tool close to me. The easy way to do it is to install wheels and then you can work more efficiently.
 
Our friend Mike, found at IKEA, a very affordable height adjustable tables : 2 or 3 positions, adjustable with a  hand crank or electric. Knowing what I know today, this is not the last tool I would buy, it would be the first one.