Craigie65
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Craigie65 got a reaction from DB789 in Nisha by DB789 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham ‘Mumble Bee’
Very striking contrast.
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Craigie65 reacted to AJohnson in Nisha by DB789 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham ‘Mumble Bee’
That looks good, same as you I just used a light rub of Danish oil to bring out the deck details. 👍
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Craigie65 reacted to DB789 in Nisha by DB789 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham ‘Mumble Bee’
I did fill and sand down one more time,
added the rudder fittings. These were very small and fiddly, lost at least one in the carpet. I’m really impressed that Chris includes extras of these easy to lose or break parts in the kit.
Marked the waterline. Tricky to get both sides the same, lots of drawing and then rubbing out and starting again. Nisha is sitting on a very battered copy of March’s Sailing Trawlers that I sourced on ABE Books from Germany. The price of the March’s books must have skyrocketed since Chris launched this range of models. Booksellers must be wondering why a book no one wanted two years ago is now in so much demand.
Hull taped up for painting.
Chaos Black goes on really well leaving a nice satin finish and dries very fast (unlike the horrible Plastikote white spray paint I’m using on the rubbing strip and stern trim).
Looks like dazzle camouflage from above.
Deck fits really well. Treated it with one coat of Danish Oil so far and it looks better than the untreated deck I have on the Fifie. Darker, but somehow the engraved planking is more defined too.
The deck needed light sanding at the edges to fit but very little and I think looks great. I’ll glue it tomorrow in case there’s any swelling / shrinkage from the Danish Oil.
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Craigie65 reacted to Andyrew in Nisha by DB789 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham ‘Mumble Bee’
I am of the same opinion as you regarding the finish of the Hull, these were working Boats and there would be some dents and scratches caused by hitting objects whilst at sea and knocking against moorings. The lower Mast, I used a file turning the Mast by hand to get down to the correct diameter, the inner diameter of the Photo Etch parts is slightly smaller so make sure they all fit. I then put the Mast in an electric Drill clamped to my Workmate and used fine sandpaper to smooth it. The other Mast and Spars were tapered using my electric Drill and sandpaper, using a pair of Calipers to constantly check the diameter.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from DB789 in Nisha by DB789 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham ‘Mumble Bee’
First time I have seen your last picture. I often wondered if Pilgrim was the same as either Nisha or Erycina. By the looks of the transom and counter it looks not to be.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from DB789 in Nisha by DB789 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham ‘Mumble Bee’
Nice - goes faster right? 😀
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Craigie65 reacted to DB789 in Nisha by DB789 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham ‘Mumble Bee’
Thanks for all the really helpful advice Craigie.
Nisha is now in her “red” phase.
Other builds suggest that I should fill, sand and prime Nna couple of times, but surely I shouldn’t be seeking a very smooth finish and the planks should be visible. Photos of Pilgrim show that her planking was very visible below the paint.
I’m thinking fill and sand only a few obvious cracks, mainly along the rabbet and reprime just the once.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from Glomar in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
I am lucky enough to have an airbrush and compressor from my aircraft and armour modelling days. A great investment and was heavily used. The thing is, it is seldom needed for this hobby, Nisha was only the second time I have used it for a hull. The previous time was nearly a decade ago. I do use it occasionally for brass items when chemical blackening fails (which is often for me!).
If you do go down the airbrush route, then gravity fed dual action is my gun of choice. I have tried the siphon fed version and found it too cumbersome. You will also need to get the right consistency of you chosen paint, I find even paints designed for airbrushing can need thinning.
You need to ask yourself if the investment will be worth it.
So I guess I would follow the Andrews’ advice and paint by hand. I find acrylics easier to brush, but that is probably just me, and to clean up after.
The clean lines are all about good masking and thin coats - no heavy build up. I normally use tamiya’s masking tape, but lately have been using the blue stuff Vanguard is selling. The manual shows the painting sequence in good detail.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from Glomar in Nisha by DB789 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham ‘Mumble Bee’
This article might help?
Making masts
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Craigie65 got a reaction from DB789 in Nisha by DB789 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham ‘Mumble Bee’
Good luck with that!
Have a look in the tips and techniques section. There is a section on making masts - pretty sure I have seen articles on using a drill as a lathe
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Craigie65 got a reaction from AJohnson in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
I am lucky enough to have an airbrush and compressor from my aircraft and armour modelling days. A great investment and was heavily used. The thing is, it is seldom needed for this hobby, Nisha was only the second time I have used it for a hull. The previous time was nearly a decade ago. I do use it occasionally for brass items when chemical blackening fails (which is often for me!).
If you do go down the airbrush route, then gravity fed dual action is my gun of choice. I have tried the siphon fed version and found it too cumbersome. You will also need to get the right consistency of you chosen paint, I find even paints designed for airbrushing can need thinning.
You need to ask yourself if the investment will be worth it.
So I guess I would follow the Andrews’ advice and paint by hand. I find acrylics easier to brush, but that is probably just me, and to clean up after.
The clean lines are all about good masking and thin coats - no heavy build up. I normally use tamiya’s masking tape, but lately have been using the blue stuff Vanguard is selling. The manual shows the painting sequence in good detail.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from DB789 in Nisha by DB789 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham ‘Mumble Bee’
This article might help?
Making masts
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Craigie65 got a reaction from AJohnson in Nisha by DB789 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham ‘Mumble Bee’
Good luck with that!
Have a look in the tips and techniques section. There is a section on making masts - pretty sure I have seen articles on using a drill as a lathe
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Craigie65 got a reaction from AJohnson in Nisha by DB789 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham ‘Mumble Bee’
Hi,
I think you have two options:
mask off the mast at the step and use a file to cut the step by hand, or you can use a power drill as a lathe and use a file and sandpaper to cut the step I used option 2 for my first and second builds, then invested in a lathe for my Peggy build
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Craigie65 got a reaction from DB789 in Nisha by DB789 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham ‘Mumble Bee’
Hi,
I think you have two options:
mask off the mast at the step and use a file to cut the step by hand, or you can use a power drill as a lathe and use a file and sandpaper to cut the step I used option 2 for my first and second builds, then invested in a lathe for my Peggy build
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Craigie65 reacted to Glomar in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
I appreciate all the love everyone!
I definitely nicked the stem right off! really solid advice on the masking tape so wrapping it up as we speak!
I am not really able to get the planks to stay in the bow rabbet so, they are actually overlapping it. I am not sure if I beveled the first level of planks to much or it is not cut deep enough- is that a concern at all?
@AJohnson @Craigie65 I would love to get you advice on how to best paint this! I am REALLY bad at hand painting and have been flirting with the idea of getting a cheap airbrush but have literally no experience with that at all either. I really love the clean lines of the ship so would love to try and get a really solid paint job on her.
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Craigie65 reacted to Andyrew in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
If you are not sure about Airbrushing you could use spray paint cans, not sure where you are in the world but here in the UK you can get spray paints from DIY stores or Car Spares stores.
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Craigie65 reacted to AJohnson in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
Hi, regarding painting the key is preparation before the final paint coats. Rubbing down sanding, filling and then a primer coat and repeat. I did that process several times as there is nothing like a layer of paint to draw attention to surface imperfections. 😨
For the primer a rattle can is fine if used carefully, more thin coats than a single heavy coat. If the undercoat is good then brush painted top coat is perfectly doable. Just use good quality artist brushes, flat brushes not pointed. I personally use enamel paints mostly but also acrylics from brands like Caldercraft. Again don’t try and cover in one if brush painting, a few thin coats are better, but obviously this takes patience. If you are nervous of doing this on your Nisha, build a mock section using scrap planks (sanding, filling and priming it as the model) and practice on that first.
Good luck! There is a painting hints and tips section on MSW.
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Craigie65 reacted to AJohnson in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
Yep, I get my primer and undercoating rattle cans from DIY or Car service places.
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Craigie65 reacted to DB789 in Nisha by DB789 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham ‘Mumble Bee’
Second planking finished, filled and sanded.
Still lots of room for improvement at bow and stern, especially if I’m ever to build a bare wood hull.
I’ve decided on a fully painted hull with red oxide below the waterline and black above with no bootstrap. The rubbing strake will be white.
So I have used white filler wherever needed and have not yet added part #39 to the stern as this will be white too.
The bulkhead “ears” have been removed
I’m going to paint the inside of the bulwarks black too, but not the timberheads. I’ve roughly masked off where each of these will be - it does not need to be perfect, just enough that I can see where each timberhead goes after painting.
Also masked over each of the hatches and holes in the deck and around the tiller shaft.
The only wood primer I have is the red oxide primer I’m using for the lower hull so everything will be painted with that before painting with Chaos Black above the waterline. Using spray cans for both.
Andrew Johnson - I hope you don’t mind me copying your colour scheme?!
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Craigie65 got a reaction from Andyrew in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
Totally agree, that this was the most difficult plank. What I could not get my head around was the prototype build had this plank neither on or below the one above. If you look closely it actually straddles the corner of the counter - I was convinced that I had put the bulwarks on too high.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from Andyrew in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
Glomar,
I see you got that tricky plank on pretty well. Yours looks more like the manual than mine.
At the bow you might get away with shaping the offending third plank which seems to overlap the bow on its bottom corner. Perhaps with a knife rather than sanding. It is also worth sanding the rear of the plank where it meets the bow rabbet to make sure it sits in.
It looks as if your sanding has nicked the bow. Can I suggest you protect the stem with some masking tape?
As Andrew J pointed out you could do an all over paint job as he did on his excellent build.
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Craigie65 reacted to AJohnson in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
Sound advice from Craig, some masking tape to protect the Bow/stem and keel whilst fitting/shaping/sanding the second planking would help. (I damaged the very tip of the stem on my build - don't worry we all do it! 😏)
Once I had worked out how much to taper the planks I worked from the bow back, getting the front to sit in as neat as possible, as Craig said, some of the inside edges of the planks at the bow might need shaving thinner so they sit snug into the Bow Rabbet.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from AJohnson in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
Glomar,
I see you got that tricky plank on pretty well. Yours looks more like the manual than mine.
At the bow you might get away with shaping the offending third plank which seems to overlap the bow on its bottom corner. Perhaps with a knife rather than sanding. It is also worth sanding the rear of the plank where it meets the bow rabbet to make sure it sits in.
It looks as if your sanding has nicked the bow. Can I suggest you protect the stem with some masking tape?
As Andrew J pointed out you could do an all over paint job as he did on his excellent build.
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Craigie65 got a reaction from Peanut6 in Nisha by Glomar - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble-Bee'
Glomar,
I see you got that tricky plank on pretty well. Yours looks more like the manual than mine.
At the bow you might get away with shaping the offending third plank which seems to overlap the bow on its bottom corner. Perhaps with a knife rather than sanding. It is also worth sanding the rear of the plank where it meets the bow rabbet to make sure it sits in.
It looks as if your sanding has nicked the bow. Can I suggest you protect the stem with some masking tape?
As Andrew J pointed out you could do an all over paint job as he did on his excellent build.
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