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About Peanut6

  • Birthday 07/17/1960

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    Noblesville, Indiana, USA

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  1. I haven't abandoned my little Jolly Boat. Just ran into a few obstacles, finally got a job after a very long lay-off which cuts into work at the shipyard. But the biggest hurdle is the weather, 85+ with humidity not far behind makes it just way too hot to be working in the garage. The heat index has had us pushing 100 if not exceeding it most days over the last 3 weeks. Moving the shipyard indoors is out of the question because I'm afraid our 2 cats would insist upon adding their own bashing ideas to my project.
  2. Having a very very tough day so I decided to walk away and find my happy place. While positioning the top gudgeon the aft bulwark popped off, CA doing wonders for me again. Shook my head, said a few bad words and tried to continue forward. Finally got the top gudgeon positioned and nailed in. I had been putting my little Jolly Boat on the stand and removing it multiple times while trying to position the bottom gudgeon. I had finally got it positioned correctly and set it back on the stand and noticed the right pedestal wobble just a bit, CA doing wonders for me again. Immediately looked thru my scrap bin of wood screws and found 2 of the right length and diameter to seriously attach the pedestals when they finally come loose, which I know they will. I continued with the bottom gudgeon and got the first nail location marked when a nail of the top gudgeon had worked it's way loose. I grabbed some CA and applied just the tiniest of dots to the nail end. By the time I got the nail started back into its hole the glue was setting up and I still had about 1/64" to go, CA doing wonders for me again. Just enough space to make the gudgeon wiggle. Grabbed the needle nose and was able to remove the nail and of course the other nail came loose. So far, in trying to get the gudgeons installed, I've made negative progress. I believe I'll spend the rest of the day adjusting my attitude in hope that tomorrow will be a bit more gentle and kind. As I'm getting closer finishing my Jolly Boat I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. But after days like this, I'm starting to believe that what I'll find at the end is a gorilla holding a flashlight.
  3. Since my last update post I’ve made some progress though it doesn’t deserve any photos. The bowsprit has been stained. The boom and gaff halyard have been stained and their jaws attached. The mast has been stained and now has the cheeks and bowsprit support installed including a spacer I had to fabricate. All metal work for mast attachment has been completed. The metal bowsprit support at the bow has been formed but not cut to length nor the attachment hole(s) installed. The supports for the display stand have been stained and attached (name plate still go go). The oars have been shaped with a handle and stained, the blades have been stained and attached. The rudder has been stained and the pintles have been attached. The top gudgeon is in place. I’m having a bit of an issue with the bottom gudgeon. There is a step between the hull planking and the stern post due to a rabbit not being present. I just know that if I try to bend the gudgeon to fit, I’ll wind up really messing things up and probably breaking the gudgeon. And of course the thru holes for attaching the gudgeon are hitting way too close to joins between the planking and also at the stern post and false keel for my liking. I’m very concerned about splitting when the nails are installed. I’m hoping that when I even up the distance between the rudder and the transom down the length it puts these holes in a better position. To handle the the step I’m thinking of tapering the plank area down to the stern post only where the gudgeon is, and doing so ever so slightly. Trying to make the transition a little less drastic. I’m having minimal success using CA on the metal work, even though I’ve tried to ensure that the surfaces are clean and “finger oil” free. As much as I don’t like it, I’m counting on the nails to secure these pieces. The fact that I’ve had to trim the nails to length to ensure they don’t pass thru the material also adds to my worries. The troubles I’ve dealt with are self imposed and/or from the lack of clarity in the instruction manual. I’ve gone back to previous posts to add “Advisory Notes” where the instructions, IMHO, caused me problems in hope that it might help others. I’ll go into more detail on self imposed problems in my next update where pictures will be necessary to fully explain. I plan on doing that when the rudder, mast and bowsprit are attached.
  4. The gentle mineral spirit rub down has been completed and it worked better than I could have hoped. The pieces are already dry and feel exactly as they should. I could have lived with the extra dark hue my mistake created but just enough stain was removed to really high light the wood grain. I think I'll give them an over night rest before I move on with them, I'm sure they have to be as traumatized as I was. I can't tell you how much I was dreading spending the next 2-3 days to replace what I had redone from my first go around on my little Jolly Boat. Johnny and Roger thank you so much for your guidance, it is greatly appreciated.
  5. Johnny, thanks for the information. I too have experienced numerous products that "aren't what they used to be". I can understand why formulations have changed but it's still frustrating not to get the same results one has come to know and count on. I do know the stain is good since an item I stained at the same time, and did get wiped off, turned out just fine. Unless some other information comes around, I don't see how another day or two of drying could hurt. If I do have to resort to the mineral spirits rub down I really am concerned what it might do to the PVA. In the mean time I'll continue with my oars, have 4 of the eight handles shaped and lots more I would like to do to them.
  6. James, The wood is Ramin and the stain is an oil based MinWax. I just read a little sentence tucked in a corner of the label that mineral spirits or paint thinner is to used for clean up. I was just mulling it thru my mind to do just what you said using a rag and mineral spirits. Assuming that this works, would anybody have an idea of what mineral spirits will do to PVA? My concern is with the cheeks, bowsprit support and of the utmost importance is the spacer. It is 2 pieces glued together to get the height I needed and is in the shape of a half circle with on ID of 11/64" and maybe 1.5 MM thick.
  7. After 24 hours drying time my mast, bowsprit, boom and gaff halyard are just a bit tacky. Going back and reliving yesterday afternoon, I can only guess that I didn't wipe off the excess stain and it dried. I stained the items mentioned above plus my rudder. After staining I wiped the excess off the rudder and was called away from the shipyard. I remembered the pieces hours later and thought I was okay because I remembered wiping down the rudder. The rudder is just fine so I know it isn't the stain. As I said, the pieces feel just the tiniest bet tacky, running my fingers over the pieces leaves no marks and no stain comes off onto my hands. I'm know it must be handled but I have no clue how to go about it. Any insights or solutions would be greatly appreciated. I'm desperate as a spacer I had to make a attach to the mast so it would fit properly took me an entire day to fabricate.
  8. What I have to share is based upon my facilities drafting days of yore. It doesn't directly apply to ships, of any era, but I can't see how the logic could not be carried over. Yes there is a strict code for stairs. But it does have flexibility built into it in order to handle all situations. There is a min/max for tread depth and a min/max for riser height. What those numbers are have escaped me after all these years. The number of steps, odd or even, is not a factor. The key factor is that the riser distance must be consistent for that particular flight of stairs. This distance is to include the surface you are standing on to the top of the first step and the surface of the last step to the destination surface. There are other factors that affect rise and run in a flight of stairs but I won't go into that now. The one consistency I've seen in all the build logs I've read is the inconsistency in the distance from one deck to another. Not only between ships of different eras, but within different types of ships within the same era to even the decks within the same ship. IMHNO (In My Humble Newbie Opinion) I would think that if one would follow the guideline of a consistent riser distance of a "realistic stride/step to scale" you couldn't be faulted. I'd bet that is the "general rule" the shipwrights of old followed.
  9. HHH, I did consider using the "headless nail" method but I can't drill a straight hole to save my life. Maybe better stated, the hole is always straight because the bit is, but it's never in the proper alignment. Always cocked/tilted one way or another. So for me, that method went out the window. The way you handled the oars is an interesting touch, something I wouldn't have thought of. I'm not sure what I'm going to do with mine. I read your current build log and look forward to following you along your journey. I am always receptive to anyone who offers help, tips, suggestions, hints, clues and any reference materials. As this is my build log, I have no problem with others adding photos. I know that a picture can jog a memory better than a title and author's name so if it helps me it may very well help someone else who might visit my build log. Thank you. Not being the tightest shroud on deck, the second photo looks as it shows the basic details of each line. That is the information this newbie needs the most. Most everything I find seems to be directed towards those who know what is going on and just need a quick/simple reminder. I look at it like this, if I don't know/understand the most basic rigging how can I understand the more complex situations. Anyway, thanks again for your comments as they are greatly appreciated.
  10. A little update. I’ve installed the aft most thwart, transom bulwark, thwart braces, the bow ring-eye and made the cutouts for the oars (which I stained afterwards). From top to bottom is the newly turned one piece mast, newly turned boom, previously turned bowsprit, newly turned gaff. All but the bowsprit still need to be cut to length. I've also shaped the cheeks and bowsprit support that attach to the mast. The instructions tell you to fabricate the sails based upon the plans. My kit, as with other Jolly Boat builders, came with pre-made sails which are larger than those shown in the plans. But the plans don’t make the necessary adjustments in the boom, gaff, mast and bowsprit lengths. So I had to re-turn my gaff and boom. I hadn’t cut my bowsprit to length yet so I was able to use it as it was. The instructions have you make a 2 piece mast. At the time I couldn’t understand why. How was one to create a perpendicular cut to the axis of two tapered pieces at the exact diameter of 2 dowels to create a butt joint which presents such a weak point in an important piece. This sure seemed to be an unnecessary exercise in model building. At the time, after the fact as my luck goes, it was suggested that I could/should get a length of dowel and make a single piece mast. That is indeed what I did this time around. Based upon my career experience, I’m now of the belief that AL’s decision to go with a two piece mast was simply a cost savings for them. If the box is of industry standard size, flute and configuration (which I strongly suspect), if the insert can be used for more than one model (which is probable) then the savings to use the same box and insert for multiple models far outweighs the cost of a possible extra photos and paragraphs per applicable model instructions.
  11. HHH, your post of encouragement is ever so timely. As I read thru every sentence I found myself nodding in agreement. In sharing your experiences, it's as if you were looking over my shoulder as I've traveled down this path of my first build. I also seemed to have the light bulb of understanding come on out of nowhere regarding my rigging. Though I've asked for input regarding my plan, what I'm thinking makes sense to me as I understand things and unless someone speaks up I'm going with it. Research can be very difficult when one doesn't have a firm grasp of the terminology of the craft. I start looking into something and find a word I don't understand who's definition contains another word I don't understand which contains . . . . on and on until I finally get to the end. By that time I can't seem to retrace my steps to where I ran down the rabbit hole. And I've actually come across the statement "same as 'fill in the blank" only simpler". If you happen to have any suggestions regarding my rigging thoughts that you would like to share, I sure would be greatly appreciative.
  12. Wefalck, thank you for that piece of wisdom. I posted a picture in my build log of the cleats I made the other day. I figured I would need 7 do rig my Jolly Boat. The method I used produced 8, and if I didn't miss anything and don't break or lose any, they are all accounted for. Again I thank everyone who has replied with their guidance as it is greatly appreciated.
  13. Got come cleats made yesterday in between thwart bracket attachments (only one more to go). Obviously not all that good and I’m sure they are out of scale. But IMHO not too terribly bad for a first attempt considering it was freehand. Need to clean them up just a bit and hope I don’t break any. I’m praying they look half way acceptable when I dry-locate a couple in the boat.
  14. Just realized I can't put the cleats on the mast, they will interfere with the rings for the gaff sail. Guess I'll have to put them on the deck (item 13). Go with a pair port and a pair starboard. Already trying to make some cleats while my thwart braces are drying. Crossing my fingers they turn out decent. Also figured out what I'm going to do regarding my little sketch above. Do as initially planned but I'll be putting the cleat on the aft thwart (item 19).
  15. A major thank you to everyone who replied. The feedback, pictures and links all contain a tremendous about of information. I never would have guessed that my "little situation" had been such a debatable topic in the past. I've decided to go with my initial sketch except my belaying point will to a cleat located on the starboard bulwark or starboard stern thwart (item 19) in the picture below. I agree that I could get away with two single blocks rather than a single and double block. But that is what came with the kit, and this whole unemployment thing makes it impossible to add stock the shipyard. I don't even want to try and make one to match those that came with the kit, they are just way too small. Your help, as always, is greatly appreciated. I do have some other rigging questions I asked in my build log . . . so if maybe anyone might want to take a gander and redirect me or confirm what I"m thinking that would great.
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