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Peanut6

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About Peanut6

  • Birthday 07/17/1960

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  • Location
    Noblesville, Indiana, USA

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  1. Oh there’s trouble in paradise. I was in the process of installing plank 18 of 20 when I noticed something at the transom didn’t look quite right. Take notice of the chamfer at the top of the transom. Yup, I installed the transom backwards. The lower edge of the chamfer should be on the inboard side, not on the outboard side. This is important because in a couple steps the aft thwart is installed, it needs to rest upon transom and keel upright. I realized that if the orientation of the transom is important, what about the frames. Yup, sure enough, there is a sli
  2. I was able to get the first 2 planks (2 on each side) shaped by just soaking and glued down using PVA just as I wanted. Planks 3 and 4 were more difficult. I still was able to get them shaped by soaking. But my frames were starting to look like Swiss cheese with all the push pin holes and I could see that they were wanting to split. Trying to get the aft end to snug up to the previous plank was tough and wound up popping of 7 flooring pieces, 1 thwart and the bow cap. Getting that twist in the plank to attach to the aft end of the keel below the transom was a bear of a job. I didn’t have
  3. I had every intention of getting back sooner, but life happened and had to deal with it. First I want to thank Gregory for pointing out Chuck's edge bending technique plus taking the time, effort and his supplies to run the tests he did showing his bending technique. I can't express my appreciation and patience, thank sir you went above and beyond. With what I have available to me right now I wasn't able to duplicate Gregory's results thou. I'm sure that my 1600 watt 20+ year old hair dryer was the issue. I'll try to make rest of this as short as possible. I started to bend my 5th plank
  4. Gregory, that is a pretty snazzy and versatile set up. I can definitely see how an experienced calibrated eye can achieve any bend desired. Now if you would, please indulge me in answering another question. Can you put a dry (unsoaked) plank in your plank bending jig as shown in the second picture?
  5. mnl, thanks for the input. At this point I can only see myself using the micro bits for use in model ships. Cleaning/clearing the holes in blocks, dead-eyes, making holes in wood to install eye bolts and thin sheet metal used for rudder hinges.
  6. I believe my original question has become a moot point. Can’t really compare Ramin wood to basswood since I probably didn’t have Ramin wood to begin with. The kit is 11 years old and I have no clue when Ramin hit the endangered species list. Jaager, thank you for the wood information. I’ll keep that in mind for when my skill level, budget and build project warrant the desire for a change. Reklein, yes I am experiencing what you describe on the garboard side. But it is minimal, say 1/32” and I’m able to scrunch up the plank to cover that little distance. Once I hit
  7. Bob, that is the plan, get a decent set for the money to get started and then stock up on my own as necessary. My pin vise looks very similar to the silver one above and it has a dual collet. And I misspoke in my last post, I should have said my pin vise can hold a bit up to 3/32". I already have four #60 bits (how they got into my hobby tool box I'll never know) and my pin vise handles those just fine. Thanks again.
  8. My Jolly Boat BOM listed the planking material as Ramin, whether it is or not I have no clue. I selected basswood because I read it was a suitable choice, readily available and within my budget. And I know what you mean with basswood being prone to splintering and rolling fibers. I just wasn't sure if there was a difference between the two or if what I was experiencing was do to the entirely different bending requirements needed between the two sections of the hull. I understand how heat works better than soaking. The only videos I've seen using heat is with a jig, where the be
  9. Thank you to everyone for your suggestions and guidance, I do appreciate it. I do own a pin vise with a double collit that I'm believe can handle an 1/8" diameter shaft, 3/16" for sure. My Dremel kit with the flexible shaft is the only mini power tool I have and others will have to wait until my craftsmanship warrants the cost. The sources you all have given will be of great assistance when its time for bit replacement as I'm sure I'll continue to break more bits. Thanks again.
  10. My daughter has asked me to fill out a wish list for Father's Day and my Birthday. So I was wondering what are the most common micro drill bit sizes used for the many sized blocks and dead-eyes? Looking to get a selection that could/would/should get me started and cover most instances in future builds? Thank you in advance for your input.
  11. What is the difference between Ramin (supplied for hull planking my Jolly Boat) and basswood (my purchase for replanking the hull of my Jolly Boat)?. I think I'm finding that the basswood isn't as forgiving/flexible as the Ramin. But I can't be sure since my first planking attempt was using the Ramin and I started from the top toward the keel with no twist. I'm now replanking using basswood starting at the keel and working my way up. I'm not sure if the difference I'm seeing is due to the severe twist required at the aft end keel until I get to the transom. I'm also experiencing more "fol
  12. Joseph, a welcome from the Midwest. You've received good advice from some very skilled modelers. In addition to all the various clamps available I've found that in planking my Jolly Boat, push pins are a must. There are a few spots that I just can't get a clamp, of any kind, on nor can I find a way to get a rubber band to get the job done. I used a grinding disc on my Dremel to shorten the pins and reduce the diameter to my liking. I had to be very careful not to over heat the pin as it would melt the plastic. I did this because when using unmodified pins I split my transom The pins
  13. Thank you all for your input and suggestions, it is greatly appreciated. It is comforting to know that some of the things I do are also practiced by more skilled builders than I. Now to clarify a couple things. I said I used Titebond white glue only because it comes out of the bottle white. When it dries it is yellow so I guess it is yellow glue. I had never seen yellow glue as it comes out of the bottle, so I was expecting some special something-something. I also use Elemer's carpenters glue and to be honest, I use which ever bottle I grab first as they sit side by side. I do pre-bend
  14. I'm using Titebond white wood glue on my Jolly Boat. I really want to avoid using CA glue if at all possible. The instructions for Titebond say to clamp for 30 minutes and not to stress the joint for 24 hours. How long do you folks let the glue dry before you feel good about "stressing the the joint"? I'm planking the hull now and would like to get more than one plank glued down a day. The stress that I would be applying is trimming the plank at the bow so there is room for the bending/gluing of its counter part on the other side and just normal handling while I continue planking. I vagu
  15. Thank you very much David, I was very surprised and pleased with how it turned out. I just hope I can replicate it this go around, without the mistakes of course. If so, it would really coax me to stain the hull rather than paint it, which was my desire from the start. My new planking material came in late last week. I spent one day pulling off what I had and cleaning off the glue residue. Once I had the frame members all cleaned up I double checked my fairing using a batten I made as described in an earlier post. Everything seemed to line up/work out fine. Now with a clean slate I star
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