Craigie65

I made the top by laminating two layers of 1/32” basswood sheeting, each at 90 degrees to each other.  The kit will have a plywood template to trace the shape onto the basswood.  This gave the correct thickness and added strength.  On a real ship, the top was made up from tongue and grooved wood slats.  I drew the edges of the slats onto the top with a #11 blade. 

The top’s rim was made next.  I used template to trace the curved section onto sheet basswood.  The rim overlaps the edge of the top so draw another line onto the basswood 3.5” outwards from the first line.  I made a second template by outlining the top and drew another line 3.5” inwards from the edge of the template on the curved edge and both sides.  The template was trimmed at the inner line (see arrow below) and positioned on the basswood sheet 7” inwards from the first line.  This gave me the shape of the curved part of the rim.
  
The rim was glued onto the top and weighted down until dry. 

The front edge of the rim is raised.  I used a 3 mm chisel to remove one-third of the thickness of the rim.  If you do not have a chisel, you could use a sanding stick to shape the rim.  The inner edge of the rim was feathered so that only one-third the thickness was left where it met the top.

The side pieces also they extend 3.5” beyond the edge of the top and their thickness tapers to one third the thickness on its inside edge.  Because this piece is straight and with the grain, the tapering was done before it was glued to the top.  When you turn the top upside down, you can see the overhanging edges fore and both sides.
  
The top has multiple slats extending from the edge to the center opening.  The number depends on the size of the top.  I have penciled in the locations of the slats for this top (see two pictures down).  The slats that abut the curved portion of the rim have an unusual shape.  They are cut away to allow them to rest on top of the rim and tapered to a point as they approach the center opening.  Since they are all slightly different in shape, they were made individually.  The slat does not extend over the raised edge.  In the next picture I have incorrectly cut the side edges with a 45 degree bevel.  It should be a straight cut.  

The side slats pass through openings cut into the rim, and taper towards the center opening.  I laminated six pieces of wood together and shaped them into a triangle.  The height of the slat is flush with the rim.  The slats were unglued, openings were cut into the rim and they were installed. 

The aft slats are also triangular and extend to the edge of the top.  Lastly, a gunwale was glued on top of the aft slats and the side rim.  Take a look at this much later picture to see the relationships between the gunwale, side rim and aft slats. 


 
 

Post One Hundred and Seventy-five
18’ cutter – completion.
Lifting rings and a mast step are added to the basic kit along with the incredibly tiny thwart knees. Amazing how Chris manages to produce identifiable laser cut pieces this small.

4602
I have gone with a double banked six oared rowing arrangement, mainly because with single banking I would have to cut an oarlock in the wash strake above the sternsheets, and there’s insufficient depth.

4625
I’m not a fan of the kit rudders supplied with this range of boats, comprising a thin central core sandwiched between two brass etch facings complete with straps.
 
I prefer to make rudders using slightly thicker wood with a vertical grain. For the 18’ cutter I used 1mm Boxwood.

For hanging I use the ‘quick release’ method as used on such boats, as seen here on one of the Victory’s cutters. 
With this arrangement the pintle is attached to the sternpost with an extra-long pin which allows for easier rudder hanging once the boat is in the water.

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Rudders are fairly simple to replicate, as is the hanging, provided sufficiently tiny eyelets can be obtained.

4605
To match the other boats on the skids I have painted the bottom with Vallejo ivory, but otherwise left the remainder of the hull and inboard works bright.

4610
The oars provide the colour element linking to the general inboard works of ‘Indy’

4612
I think this small cutter looks ok on the skids, obscuring little of the gun deck, so I’ll leave it onboard.
 
It has taken around 8 days to build this smallest of the supplied boats. From around 10” she looks fine to my eye, especially given the scale, but the macro is somewhat less forgiving.🫤
 
B.E.
10/05/2024

We are constantly expanding our range of accessories. We have now created more categories of accessories sets for model ships. In particular, we have added new sets for model rigging and sails.
Many of these sets were created based on your orders and suggestions. And more will be added.
 
Categories of complete accessory sets can be found HERE
Here as an example you can see part of rigging and sails accessories on Cutty Sark 1:75 for kit by Billing Boats.

Thanks Thukydides - I was planning to follow your excellent advice. I installed the PE for the hammock cranes, then put a line through to check alignment, this proved surprisingly fiddly, so I fully rigged the hammock cranes as I’d probably find it difficult to do so once the shrouds were fitted. 
 
Adder’s hull is now complete except for the anchors so onto masts, yards and rigging… 
 
Photos of the finished hull below: 




With Alert. Perspective is deceptive, Alert and Adder’s hulls are almost identical in length. 

Log #2: unboxing and review
 
I’ve just picked up the kit today.
 
I’m amazed at the quality and precision in all the parts and how well everything is packaged and labeled. You literally can’t go wrong, let alone all the extra plans and diagrams.
 
This is a big step up in quality from my Perseverance.
 

 

 

 

Here is an unboxing review of Sherbourne, bt the Midwest Model Shops in the US:
 
(Not much else to report on, just been producing/re stocking Indy laser cut sheets, which has taken an absolute age to do...)

You will not need any of that

Time for an update. The sub-deck has been put in place. It clips in nicely, and once glued provides a good solid structure,
 

Once in place, the doublers at the stern can be glued in, and I added some slightly watered down carpenter's glue to give these areas some strength before continuing with some fairing to get ready for the bulwarks. This area is quite vulnerable, but with a little care and attention it hasn't caused me any problems.

After getting the fairing near to where I felt it should be, the keel parts are glued into place (thus saving them being sanded away unintentionally... 


 
I like this way of doing things. It gives you the double benefits of good access to sand, and a neat finish. Kudos, Chris!
 
Now the bulwarks can be fitted... They aren't glued above the sub-deck, but can be clamped... Again, it all seemed to go very smoothly.


Having waited again for things to dry overnight, the sub-counter was soaked, clamped in place, and allowed to dry overnight - again - and then glued in place... 
 


Then - having allowed it all to dry again - it was time to start the planking... 

And that's where I've got to so far...  Thanks for looking in. I'm really pleased with how things are going
 
Rob

Wonderful work.  Looking forward to watching your log of Speedy.
Enjoy Shetland!

Wonderful work.  Looking forward to watching your log of Speedy.
Enjoy Shetland!

It did, but the stock looks like it is on upside down?

Lower half of starboard side done and much better than port side as used a hairclip to hold shrouds spacing at the top. 
 

 

 

Top of the bulwarks painted black.
Then channels and upper rails fitted.
Gunwales painted black and glued. Eyebolts added to the inner bulwarks.


The gunwale across the stern needed to pre-formed to get the correct curve. I soaked it and let it dry for 24 hours.

On the stern the outer stern board was added followed by the rudder post cheeks. Then the aft gunwale and the black trim on the stern. 
I need to try a different white pain to touch up that matches the spray can white better. 
 
 

It would.  I used files on my first build to square off the top of the mast.
 
You can also go the other way of using square stock and rounding off the trunk of the mast.  Particularly useful for top masts given the change in shapes across the length.
 
 

Made a jig for the shrouds. Working ok so far.
 

 

 

 

I would think so but I´m not an expert about ratlines. But just by logic I would say it should be easier and safer to fit the shrouds and ratlines. But I would make sure that the mast is properly secured and fixed, if the mast collapses the entire work is ruined and you start again.
 
Micha

Thanks Micha. Me neither I've only done them once. Got the knot for the ratlines right about half way through? I was thinking without the yards fitted they might survive! This time I've test fitted the mast so I know it'll go in ok once it's got lots of delicate parts attached.
 

Like I said, I´m not an expert in ratlines or rigging yet but that`s how I would have done it anyway. Sounds logical to me at least. I´m confident you will make it properly and it will work out fine. I´m still fighting my Roar Ege from Billing Boats lol...

Micha

A few days away will be nice

Main mast prepped and fit checked, not fixed in place.
 

 
Bowsprit shaped and fitted. Then became apparent that this put it out of line vertically and horizontally. Not horribly so but enough to annoy. Removed and filed so the alignment is good. I'll sand out the file marks next time.
 

 

Post One Hundred and Seventy
 
Completing the Cutter.
 
Apart from painting the bottom Ivory, and the wale Black/grey, the boat will be finished using w-o-p only.
 
The rudder is a plain laser cut affair intended I think to simply display in the sternsheets of the boat. There are no fixings to hang the rudder either on the stern post, transom, or rudder.
 
I chose to add these fittings including a tiller of the yoke type.

4287
Still requires a little further fining down, this is the third attempt which may still break.

4289
Trial fitting the rudder.; a few tweaks required.
 
One consequence of changing the rowing arrangement from double to single banking is that the provided oars are too short for purpose.

4290
They are fairly easily modified but it does require using two oars to produce one. 
To improve the look of the oars the blades should really be thinned towards the tip.

4295

4298

4299

4311
Set -up for single banked rowing.

4302

4306

4307
I quite like the look of her on the skids and the Pinnace and Cutter don’t obscure much of the Main deck.
 
B.E.
16/04/2024

Wasn’t sure how far I’d get today but has gone well. Except for two of my new drill bits breaking. Shame as the smaller ones have been really good. Both on the topmast so just bad karma
 
All gone together nicely and a couple of coats of black. I’ll varnish once dry and that should do for now. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

That´s the way to go my friend
 
Greetings from the North (East Coast) to the East Coast

Measuring, marking and slowly filing and sanding. Turned out nicely.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

I use a mini bench clamp vice and put my dowel / mast in there (to have it nicely fixed and not rolling when sanding) and then use a file or sanding block (often on blocks to keep a steady height). Then I turn the dowel / mast by 90 degress and go on with the same procedure.
 

 
The benchtop clamp vice was (years ago) a tenner... so not breaking the bank but a nice helper for sure.
 
Micha