jarero
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Everything posted by jarero
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More progress pictures: -
That's a brilliant idea! I was thinking my only option was to not sand after planking so that the irregularities show up so you can see that it was planked. I like the idea you have better as that will allow me to sand the hull smooth without loosing the look. Now if I could just find that picture again that showed how these things were planked....
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Thanks Wayne! If I move to the kitchen I would never get any exercise! I would only eat and build my models. I better stick to my work area.
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I went to the hobby shop this weekend and the closest thing they had was 3/32 x 1/16. My preference would be 3/32 x 1/32 which I have found online. As far as scale goes it would be tough but I think I could pull it off especially since I would be painting it. Then I saw that it would cost $20 to experiment with this and I got cheap and chickened out. Now two days later I am reconsidering. I never thought I would have to deliberate on decision like this. Should I buy a home or rent, have children or not, go to school or the military, or should I plank the hull or not?
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And some more progress pictures: For the bowsprit: Starting on the deck houses: Test fit (yep pointed the wrong way, told you I was a newbie):
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I have been looking forward to some progress pictures and it looks really, really good! I had a very slight step to mine where it didn't keep the same profile. I never thought about it being right or wrong until you asked this question. I personally would do whatever you have to to be happy with it without covering that walnut. It is amazing looking wood.
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Installing some deck fittings: Some more creative wood bending. I realized that when I would release the clamps after the wood dried that it would spring back some and not hold the exact shape I had clamped it to. I decided to try to bend it further than needed to allow for this. This time I got too carried away! Installing: Finished:
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Thanks Harvey, we had a good time and look forward to it again next month. I did a little detailing but not to the same level it sounds like you did. I'd love to see it if you have any pictures? Any luck with resetting your browser settings to get the website to work again? Thanks for the feedback! Have you made a build log or have completed photos on here? I like looking at other builds.
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As long as you are happy with it then I would use it as is. The only caution that I can provide is from my own mistake where I had the end of the tiller to tall for the scale of the swift. It's hard to be certain from the angle of that photo but it looks like yours is a much more realistic height. Nice work. Jared
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Thanks for the tip Sjors! I just assumed there was a reason the spacing wasn't symmetrical but it seems that's not the case. Keith, Drilling holes and holding your breath always seem to go hand in hand (at least for a newbie). For the rudder I used an awl to make a small divot, then a small pilot hole, then the full size hole. I took my time and ran the drill at slower speeds with very light pressure. I didn't have any issue with splintering. As far as drilling the hole for the bowsprit you can see the method that I used in post #32 of this log but please also see the response by Russ in #34.
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Thanks for the replies everyone. It seems that it would be "correct" to plank it but very challenging at this scale. I am going to go to my local hobby store this weekend and take a look at the supplies they have so I can get an idea of what I am in for when I can hold it in my hands. We will see what my confidence level is at that point. I really don't want to make a mess of it but I do like a challenge.
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I am hoping that someone can shed some light on my newest build. As I novice having only built one plank on frame ship this is a bit of a departure for me. I have an old, out of production Scientific Robert E. Lee steamboat kit. I am just starting and have finished shaping the hull. There is just one nagging question on my mind... Should I plank the hull? There is nothing in the instructions about planking at all and no material provided. Simple right? Well I don't know much about the hull construction of river steamboats such as this from the mid to late 1800's but I would guess that they would have been planked carvel style. Can someone confirm for me if it is correct to plank the hull and if it is clinker or carvel. Much appreciate any help! Jared
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I installed the timberheads (I think that is what they are even though they don't extend beyond the railing) next and as you can see in the pictures the spacing isn't constant. I'm not really sure why but they are installed exactly per the drawing:
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Sjors, I guess I figured this was part of the learning curve and that I would leave it especially considering the way it is constructed. Your comment made me take another good look at it and I think I know of a way I can fix it without having to build all new parts. Stay tuned, I will see what I can do.
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I have spent entire evenings just staring at it and maybe getting a sum total of 5 minutes worth of real work done. Rest assured you aren't along, there is someone out there just as looney!
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Sjors, you bring up a good point. This was my first "real" lesson in scale. I drilled the hole in the handle as shown in green in the picture. I guess it just felt natural to drill the hole perpendicular to the piece. It wasn't until long after I installed it that I was staring at my ship (one of those long extended stares where you do nothing but ponder the next step) and it dawned on me that it was to tall in reference to the scale of the ship. I measured the height and converted it to 1:1 and basically it is about seven feet off the deck. So either the helmsman was really tall or he stood on a stool. I should have drilled the hole where the red line is to keep things in proportion.
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Next I installed the rudder and tiller. The only really challenging part here was getting the brass shaped correctly but I think it turned out decent.
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That is really cool, I can't wait to see how it goes. Let the tedium commence! Sounds like you're a lucky man to have a wife like you do. Casting... Now that could be really fun to start making castings for the ships. I wonder how many people do that already? Well I suppose it is time for another update: I had to hold my breath and drill another large hole in my ship, this time for the rudder... Then I installed the belaying pin rails: And now I installed these thingys (sorry for the technical terms here but I can't remember what they are called at the moment): If you look carefully at the picture you will notice that I have blocks installed at the stern verticle end of these pieces. The reason for this is that they were too short to reach all the way to the stern. I saw someone else have this same problem in the past and they lengthened the pieces instead by cutting them in the middle and adding a section or wood to them. That would have probably been the better way to solve this problem as my solution created issues latter with fitting other parts. I had to remove them and then cut the blocks down to the footprint of the part itself and not have it over sized (hope that's not too confusing). Another issue I found with these same parts is that the assembly photos that came with the kit show these parts being much wider than they really are. That wasn't a big deal until I saw that they wanted eye bolts installed through them. There wasn't enough material do drill the right size hole through. More pictures on that later.
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What a coincidence, my wife (also on the forum building ships) does chain maille as well. She started off by buying the rings pre cut but then I bought her a saw and the mandrels, etc. so that she could make here own jump rings. The wire I used for the nails was actually part of her supplies for making rings. I guess I got so wrapped up in the process of making the nails one at a time that I never thought to manufacture them in advance. I guess if I went out to the garage and looked at the ford in there I might have been inspired to mass produce them. Thanks for the idea!
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Keith, To answer your question I would have to divide the nails into two categories, those that are driven into solid wood and those that are hollow under the planking. The method I used with the solid wood areas was to first drill the hole approx 3/16 to 1/4" and then insert a piece of wire that was a few inches long (so it was easy to hold onto with pliers) into the hole. I would then use a pair of wire cutters and cut off the excess as close to flush with the hull as possible. Then I used a small flat file and filed the pinched end of the wire (pinched from cutting) until it was flat. If the nail wasn't flush with the hull at this point I used a small hammer to drive it the rest of the way. When there wasn't solid wood to drill into and hold the nails I would drill a hole in the hull that was slightly undersized and then insert a precut approx 1/4" piece of the wire that I already filed flat on one end. These were just held in as a friction fit but I never had any problems with them backing out or driving in too far. Just make sure you slightly undersize the hole you drill. You might want to experiment on some scrap wood first, at least it helped me. Let me know if you have any other questions.
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No apologies needed!!! The great thing about posting my build here is that even though it is too late to implement fixes on this build I can use the great information that you and other provide on future builds as well as others that read this when they are working on their Swift's.
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I didn't line it with anything and fortunately for me it didn't cause any damage that way (I am finished with the build now and just catching up the log) but if I was to do it again in the future I would probably take your advice and line it with some self adhesive foam weatherstripping for doors and windows. Thanks for the tip!
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I realized at this point that I need to turn the ship right side up and work on it and I needed something for it to sit on that wouldn't hurt it. After scratching my head a few minutes and armed with a contour gauge and some balsa I cooked up this little jem:
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