Erebus and Terror

Yesterday put together the sled piece for the carronade.

So another little quick update while I figure out the galley stack thing is the carronade carriage. I decided on the Caldercraft carronade 22mm over the Al carronade 19mm even though it's slightly larger I found the design more accurate plus I can't seem to place the breech bolt on AL version. The copper ring will be cut to provide a front sight. So pretty much I cut a veneer 3/128" piece and attached it under the carriage and shaped it around the laser cut ring added an axis and it spins quite nicely now. The parts aren't glued yet but Ill do that after the deck is finished.

Taking second look I removed the panel piece and instead going with the tarp.  But this way the stack is the right size now and looks much nicer  

So here is my little surprise. In working with the smaller model(s) I felt I now have sufficient experience to take the 80 ton cutter and create a plank on frame shell. This model won't be built any time soon but having the 3 lined up together helps me to understand the nature of how they changed as they got bigger. As a study model I used that Dallas AL kit I purchased and then took the parts and fitted them to the scale and shape of the doughty plans like so. The parts were cut out with the laser cutter I rent and now I see how easy it actually is. Look at then all lined up imagine that it's 1824 and the middle one is the old Active being escorted down the Chesapeake bay to be decommissioned with the much larger Vigilant alongside to take her place and the Monroe behind.  



 

Next up is finishing the coamings for the gratings. Iv'e found that glass files do a great job sanding down such small details. The interior is boxwood while the exterior is cherry. Even unfinished I think there is a very nice contrast between the two. The funnel stack is from Bluejacket which has nice detailing however I feel it's probably too high and I may cut it down a bit. The connecting point between the galley stack and the grating will probably have a cloth over it. Either that or paint it black like the stack in a manner Ive seen as with the armed Virginia schooner however I am open to suggestions regarding how the stack/grating spacing should be covered.

Hello everyone! Thought I would take the holiday lull as an opportunity to do a quick update. A lot of little things have happened so let me take a moment to show you what I've been up to. First we have the garboard plank which I did through spiling. The garboard is about 1/8" wide while the others are 7/64". This was my first time planking and while there needed a bit of sanding at the edges overall I think it's started out well.

And last image for the weekend (got a busy work week ahead! ).  I drilled in the mast holes (slightly smaller than they will be but showed me where they will be placed in relation to the deck fittings.  The way I positioned them was to take a cutout of the plans put a piece of wood behind it and line them up. The front mast leans about 85 degrees while the main mast about 80 degrees. Next ahead is building the larger grating, placing the garboard plank ooooh and a surprise! Stay tuned!  

I agree. Ultimately I feel these old kits tend to have alot of historical details wrong some are educated guesses but we know so much more now via the internet sharing of information. Also and I will get to this in another post but im realizing that these doughty cutters were highly modifiable. They probably started out in 1815 looking pretty much like the builder plans however by 1825 they likely had changed quite a bit looking closely like the Morris/Taney class with built up bulwarks and increased armament. I have a chart on this I will post tomorrow. 
 
BTW this is what I did tonight. Made a boxwood grating using Chucks Syren kit. Discovered using a glass nail filer to remove the burned part from the laser. It worked amazing check it out!

Then we have the cabin itself. The finished piece will have a thinner cover. You can see I took the shape directly out of the old Italian kit plans, that said I am wondering if the back should be widened a bit? Maybe a bit less triangular?  Also might move the top skylight window back a bit feels close to the edge? Also I'm not liking the flat skylight I'm thinking the sloped roof was probably how it was done? Also wondering how the edge of the cabin roof should be finished. I imagine historically it would have a frame. The top is supposed to be planked like the deck so itll have holly planks, maybe a cherry frame boarder? If that's the case then widening won't be necessary. Any thoughts or opinions, comments are always appreciated.

Work continues on the internal framing and mast steps. Im using a flexible Holly battern for marking out the height of the lower deck beam clamp in the picture.
 
Im not going to follow the exact planking expansion for all the internal stuff that will disappear when the lower deck framing is installed - captains choice for a simpler and cleaner look to show more framing.
 
ben

Very interesting build! Thanks for sharing! 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 258 – Fore Lower Topsail Sheets 1
 
Sheets restrain the clues (lower corners) of sails.  They are attached to common shackles with the topsail clue lines.  These shackles are hauled down to the cheek blocks in the lower yard by triple tackles at the deck.  When sails are furled or unbent, the clues and the attached sheets are hauled up to the bunt, the center part of the topsail yard.  Chain was used on sheets (and halyards) for durability in resisting constant working through the sheaves due to wind fluctuations on the sails (and yards). 
 
It may seem like an odd time to be installing these, but I intend to use the sheet chains to haul all the yards down to put tension on their sling chains or, in the case of upper yards, their halyards and standing lifts.  The model yards are too light to fall of their own weight.  To do this, the sheet chains will be stopped together inside the sheet blocks so that putting tension on the sheet tackles will hold the yard down and also allow the chains under the yard to sag realistically.  The method uses a wire connection between the two sheets as illustrated below.
 

 
The wire strap between the two separate sheet chains will loop over the central pin in the block.  The short legs will drop inside their respective sheaves.  The stopper link will be invisible as seen in the next picture.
 

 
The drooping horizontal chains in the picture are reeved through the fairleads under the yard, through the cheek blocks then temporarily suspended above until their yard is rigged later.  These upper legs are unaffected by tension on the lower ends.  The lower ends of the chains are secured to triple-purchase tackles that hook into eyebolts in the deck.  These were strung up as shown below before installing.
 

 
In the next picture the port tackle has been rigged.
 

 
The upper block is "shackled" to the chain – in this case fastened by a shackle-like, knotted loop of wire.  The opposite chain is tied off temporarily with wire awaiting its tackle.  The next picture shows both tackles secured to their chains.
 

 
The lengths of chain on each sheet is long enough to haul the lower topsail clues down to the lower yardarms from their initial position when the topsail is bent to the yard, so these triple purchases use up a lot of rope – most of which ends up coiled when the sail is rigged. 
 
The next picture shows the lower ends of the tackles hooked to the eyebolts and belayed on the long pins through the sheet bitts. 
 

 
These connections will probably be re-configured later, but for now the tackles have pulled the yard down and tightened the sling chain as may be seen in the last picture.
 

 
 
Ed           

Because of a small mistake, the first attempt ended in failure, but there were also some gains.

 

 

 

 
The second production has begun...
 

 

Hello to all!
For my poor English ,the following was translated by software and maybe have some grammar or other mistakes .
The plans of L'ARTÉSIEN were purchased from France in last year,the ship is so beautiful and i want to make it(into a ship model) by cnc.
 

 

 
First I scan the drawings,then make it into 3d model or 2d Vector graph,Then NC engraving,Including 2D and 3d kits for example frames/figurehead...
My project starts from the stem and the main material is pear and jujube...
This process is almost all CNC machining, manual only assembly and polishing...
 
 

 

 

 

 
some photos of  Actually produced...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
mill on double sides
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The two faces are basically the same
 

 

 
Double sides milling of bow special parts...
 
The following is "no bridges"

 

The previous production was "have bridges" As shown below...
 

 


 

 

 
pre-assemble...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The figurehead ...
3d model
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Although not very similar, I have tried my best...
NC machining programming and simulation
 

 

 

 

 
Preparation materials
 

 

 

 
It will take some time to process the finished product
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hello,
before I go on with the report, I would like to thank you for your interest and compliments, also for the LIKES.
The bowsprit is ready so far except for the rings for the font fish. The dolphin striker for the La Crèole was forged from iron. The jib boom and the flying jib boom have now been made.
Here are some pictures:

THE GREAT PLANKING OF 2017 (Part 1)
 
Special attention was paid to HMS Terror’s planking; originally, to protect her from the recoil of her massive mortars within, and later to protect her from the immense force of polar ice without. These combined pressures resulted in the construction of perhaps the toughest wooden sailing vessel the world has ever seen. She was, in her way, the pinnacle of the wooden shipwright’s art - embodied in a squat, slab-sided bomb, with the lines and dull sailing qualities of a merchantman. How can you not love HMS Terror?
 

My reconstruction of Terror's 1845 planking plan.
 
Please visit my blog for the complete description of Terror's planking desgn and history. 
 
I made two fundamental mistakes when planning to plank Terror’s hull in 2013. The first of these was deciding to double-plank her hull, just like the real ship. I began planking my model in the fall of 2016. In a previous post, I showed how I planked Terror’s topside weatherworks above the chocks. I followed a similar methodology for the hull, but rather than edge-bending planks, I had to carefully spile them, as this was necessary to plank the bluffer parts of Terror’s bow. 
 

The first strake added to the hull. The white line was my first inadequate
 attempt to line off the bottom of the wales. I fixed the run shortly after this picture was taken. 
 

The first strake at the bow. This image reveals how bluff Terror was just above the waterline.
Again, this was taken before I adjusted the reference line on the hull. 
 
Spiling greatly slowed my progress, and I was only able to complete one or two strakes in an evening. With 120 strakes necessary for both layers of hull planking, not including the ice chocks, stern, and upper deck, I rapidly realized that I was facing a crisis. The deadline to deliver my model for the Death in the Ice exhibition was in June of 2017, and it quickly became apparent that I would not make that deadline if I did not increase my output. Thus, I began the great planking of 2017.
 
It began with a compromise. To speed up the first layer of planking, I decided to double the width of each of the lower hull strakes and to not follow the accurate plank shift pattern (which requires more cutting). While this layer will never be visible, I regret not having completed it to scale; in addition, not having a photograph of Terror’s original planking configuration remains a sincere source of dissatisfaction for me.  
 
My second mistake was to plank the second layer of my model using accurate scale plank thicknesses. Some of the planks on Terror’s wales are 8 inches thick, representing a daunting task at 1:48th scale. While the three and four-inch scale planks could easily be bent with a crimping tool and some heat from a blow dryer, this technique simply would not work on planks thicker than five scale inches. Every thick plank had to be soaked in near-boiling water for 20 minutes, carefully crimped with a plank bender, and then pressed into shape using a bending iron and a curved jig. On top of that, each plank had to be carefully spiled before bending, and the distortion caused by swelling wood and heat treatment caused no end of difficulty. An added complication was that the thickest strakes, at the wales, had to be laid top and butt fashion, which further complicated the spiling process.
 
The second layer of planking in progress. You can see here where I made the decision to
widen each strake on the first layer (about January 2017).
 
 

Detail showing the transition to 8" strakes at wales. The upper two 8" stakes were sanded 
to provide a smooth run to the 6" planks above them.    
 
 
 

The third strake of  8" top and butt planking at the bow. Notice the
 drop strake below it in the first layer of planking. 
 

Top and butt planking in progress. The tape protects
the wood at the stern and bow during planking.
 

Detail of the completed top and butt planking. 
 

Adding the absurdly wide garboard strake on the second layer.
 

Close up of the garboard strake at midships. According to contemporary plans,
the garboard strake of the second layer was not rabbeted into the keel.
Interestingly, it was on later polar vessels, like HMS Investigator. 
 

The final garboard planks at the stern, after bending them into shape. 
 

Bottom planking in progress. This photo shows how I lined off the second layer of planking. 
 
The most difficult part of the hull planking occurred with the stern. The first layer of planking was relatively simple as it abutted the rabbet on the original stern post (hence this layer was planked like every other ship). However, Lang’s 1845 conversion of Erebus and Terror to steam locomotion required that the second layer of planking form the walls of the propeller well. This meant that the second layer extended over the original stern post and propeller well and was rabbeted into the new rudder post. I’ve known for some time what shape this configuration would take, but implementing it required a lot of trial and error, despite Lang’s detailed plans and a block model for guidance. The most difficult chore was bending and spilling the planks into the proper shape, especially the strake forming the lower margin of the well. It also required the use of two “stealers” to accommodate the increased area of the stern. However, once installed, I’m convinced the model respects Lang’s design, the 1845 block model, and the practical reality faced by the shipwrights who had to plank this unusual ship.

I use masking tape to make spiling templates. This shows the extreme shape of the
first stern plank above the propeller opening at the stern. Lang didn't make the
shipwright's task easy!
 

The resulting pearwood plank. 
 

To achieve the complex bend in the plank, I soaked it in hot
water, then clamped it in place until it dried.
 

One of the stealer planks in the stern, after it had been bent to shape. 
 

Terror's unusual stern, prior to sanding and finish. Oliver Lang designed only one stealer
in this area , but I found it impossible to plank without a second.  I'll discuss the
planking of the transom and chock channel in Part 2.
 

The completed second layer at the bow prior to sanding and finish. Note the drop planks below the wales. 
On the finished model this is completely covered by a third layer of wood and "iron" plating.
I didn't need to spend such care at the bow, but a modeler can only accept so much
compromise. I'll discuss the planking of the chock channel "ice bumper" in Part 2.
 
The completed planking prior to sanding, bow plating, and finish. I'll discuss the planking of the chock
channel "ice bumper" in Part 2 .
 
Part 2 of my post details the planking of Terror’s chock channels (or “ice bumper”), her transom, and her upper deck. Stay tuned!
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 251 – Sheet Blocks
 
Each square yard, except for the skysail yards at the tops of the masts, will be fitted with an iron sheet block suspended from an eyebolt below its center.  These "cloverleaf" type blocks contain two sheaves, one for each of the two chain sheets for the sail directly above.  The sheets pass through sheaves in the yardarms, or cheek blocks on the larger yards, through fairleads under the yard, then to the sheet blocks.  The blocks direct the sheets downward to tackles that are belayed on deck in most cases.  The first picture shows the seven fabricated, 21" sheet blocks with eyebolts attached.
 

 
Two of these have been blackened.  This size will be used on lower, lower topsail, and upper topsail yards on the fore and main masts and on the crojack yard on the mizzen.  The remaining yards will be fitted with smaller, 15" blocks of this type.
 
To make these efficiently, some "mass production" was used.  In the first step, holes for all the plate casings were drilled as shown in the next picture, through two long strips of .010" brass, ¾" at 1:72 scale.
 

 
The holes were drilled using the mill as a drill press, with holes spaced using the calibration wheels, in a prescribed sequence using calculated spacings.  The resulting strips, for both block sizes are shown in the next picture.
 

 
Part of the drilling guide sheet may be seen in the picture.  It shows each movement in a numbered sequence, with penciled spacings calculated from the full size dimensions.  The punch marks on the strips were added for matching. 
 
In the next picture two dressmaker pins have been inserted through the holes on the vertical centerline of two matching plates. 
 

 
The rough shape of the block was cut through both plates using scissors.  The two pins are close fitting, and in the picture below are clamped in a vise where the triangle shapes are being sized with a file.
 

 
There is a thin, drilled wood shim under the two plates for clearance above the vise.  In the next picture the triangular shape has been filed, the plates separated, and the pins have been replaced with lengths of drawn copper wire.
 

 
One of these wires has been threaded through a turned sheave.  In the next picture, with both sheaves fitted, the lower ends of the pin wires are clamped in the vise.
 

 
In this picture the upper wire ends have been clipped off just above the top plate and then peened to form rivet heads.  The assembly was then turned over and placed on an anvil.  The long bolt ends were then clipped and peened.  In the next picture the central pin has been peened on both sides in the same way and the top pin has been inserted through a spun eyebolt.
 

 
As before, the lower ends of the pin wires are clamped in the vise for peening the first side.  The block was then flipped over to clip and peen the other ends, completing the assembly.  The lower block in the picture below shows this stage.
 
 
 
Each side of the triangle was then filed concave, shaped to match the pattern and polished. The fourteen smaller sheet blocks will be made later.
 
Ed

That is my understanding, wefalck, in fact here is one of the photos of Young America where she is docked in New York with her main yard topped up and another of Black Hawk.  In this position the yards could also be used for handling cargo, I believe.  Comments on this last point welcome.
 


 
Ed

Thank you aviaamator.
The top masts are ready and I'm starting to slowly compose masts together.

First of all I would like thank you all for very very nice comments - I am very happy for that. And now the answer for Greg´s (dvm27) qustion: the wooden woolding hoops are made from very thin pear plank - dimesions are 0,4 x 1,0 mm. This plankmust be thoroughly moistened in water and then it can be carefully wrapped around the corresponding round rod. Both end of the planks are fixed and after drying (preferably overnight) you get a wooden spiral from which the individual rings are then cutted - see picture.
And now a few new photos - lower mast tops. It remains to add rail, deadeyes and blocks - it will be made after coloring.