CharlieZardoz

Thanks all! Will take into account for heat. Richard i used the smallest/finest blade in the set. I'll add a picture once I'm back home again.

Hi everyone just an update, here it is a 1 mm strip! This one was made of basswood but if I was able to do basswood this precise, harder woods should be even easier. I followed the advice of 3/8" by 1mm and then cut the strip. I wouldn't say I'm great at it yet but I have the means now to keep at it and practice. Thank you all for assistance in helping me understand to usage of the machine. What a smooth cut! 😊

Lou I have many sizes and types of milled wood already. So let's say I use a 3" by 1/8" wood piece and want to make several strips so yeah the method you mentioned sounds what I assumed to be. And what was said about the blades its simply a matter of practice and I am unsure how to make something so precise as a 1mm cut. Like what sort of push stick is used for something that tiny?

Ok i ordered the sliding table and tilting table attachments as well. I think that's everything. I'll add my progress on here until I get to my desired result. Thanks everyone for the support! 😊

Thanks guys! Yeah all of this makes sense. Bob by sled do you mean this sliding table pictured? While I'm at it any other parts I should consider? I have many blades and the attachments you see.

Hi all! So I now have a Byrnes saw and have very little idea on how to use it. Yay! The ultimate goal is to make fine precise wood strips 1mm by 1mm thick so the question is what is the process needed to get to such a specific and small wood strip? Like how should the machine be set up for something so small and precise? I'm open to suggestions and words of wisdom and experience resources to watch or read if i need a sliding tray, ive already ordered a calibre. Ill add pics of what I currently have (blades and otherwise) shortly.

Hi all, this week has been about reorganizing my work space with the new tools provided. Part of this has been building a shelf for my various hulls. While I haven't posted this I actually spend alot of time making frames for various ships, modifying plans etc. The process is easy and in time while i plan to build them all my current environment doesn't give me alot of time and space for detail work as of yet. Hulls from bottom to top are 30 ton revenue cutter Active (in the box) Sultana Halifax Armed virginia sloop (just made based of ms purchased plans) 50 ton cutter (Monroe) And 70 ton (Vigilant) On the top marine model privateer which will probably become an Eagle class revenue cutter (in Chappelle's book the unidentified 75 footer of 1798). I also have 2 frames on table the constructo Enterprise (aka Vixen) and Dikar Lawrence which i will also add to the lot at some point. Overall this will be a much better space for crafts when time allows. New laptop also helps me create laser programs for ship parts on the go! 😉

Why yes cotton swabs really caught the winds back in those days 🤭 Regarding the saw I swear most earnestly I tried to keep this build simple but in truth even the simplest boat model may require fine detailing and I am not one to leave something just so/so when I know I can do better. 😉 and she gleams so nicely as well I didn't expect to get one at a super deal I can't help but feel it was destiny. 👌🌈

Hi all, just a quick update I realized that I kept coming into wood milling issues in an attempt to make the ship channels and subsequent cap strip. While I have a pretty extensive stock I can't account for all needed parts and with milled lumber suppliers now retired it was time for me to get a Byrnes table saw. I feel like I just brought myself a level forward.💪 While I will need time to learn its ways, I am so excited to have the freedom to mill at my leisure. The end goal is a 1mm by 1mm strip stay tuned! Thanks to Bob Hunt for connecting me to one that was made available 👌🙃🙏

The vigilant was renamed the Dallas and was twice the size of Active which was 30+ tons. So likely there was a 51 and 69 ton Dallas.

Aha thank you very much and appreciate the compliments on both counts 😊 Sadly theatre (yes to the "re") is on pause for this year but art creation is not. Ill post a new update shortly ive been mulling over the lifeboat question. Where would it go on such a ship? Not on deck it would interfere with the Canon. The back lacks enough structural support. If you look at this image of an 1829 cutter of similar design you can see the back had a higher rear bulwark. (the pilot boat Achilles also had this feature) and no doubt the back could support davits for a life boat. My opinion is that the Doughty cutters were likely highly modified after launch or at least their upper workings, so likely either the pivot gun or rope stanchion railings were tossed soon after. The increased bulwark on this 1829 cutter and less extreme bow also suggests this. Also they likely continued to vary as the years progressed 1815-1825? ones that launched later likely corrected the inadequacies of the earlier batches. The original design with a low toe rail and rope stanchion... And some variations with improved bulwarks below This one above has a full solid bulwark some swivels as well as a raised pivot canon. This one above has canon ports which was probably common on the larger 80 ton versions however doubt that pivot would still be relevant? And here's a version with a half bulwark added to the front. Which also would likely help with water washing on the deck. Another interesting variation. Since I have 3 to work on for this diorama I am inclined to mixing it up a bit. But not sure which will have what yet. Open to opinions on the lifeboat question. Other than just tugging it along possibly a half bulwark in the back and then i can have the swivels as well. Considering Active was alone for the period immediately following the war of 1812 she must have been overworked and highly adaptable to any situation they found themselves in. 🤔 One thing I am certain about it that the toe rail bulwark probably had a cap rail. All the models show this however the Doughty plans do not. Most of the models show oar locks so logic dictates that there would need to be enough surface area to support them. Here is me testing out some bulwark heights now.

Greetings all! Here is my June check in. The weather is lovely and been out in the back yard alot helping my partner w her garden. As such I decided to switch gears from the 30 ton cutter to the 80 ton model whose frames I put together a few years back. This one will be the Vigilant which severed as replacement for Active and was described as "twice the size" Since none of these ships have much history I assume she was of the 80 ton design. Where the 30 ton model is 9" this one is 13". Part of the change was simple the need to send wood and work on something I can take around with me without being so delicate. All three will be part of my diorama so I plan to build them all! It's been nice to shift gears and have something to whittle away on. Even bought a new dremel! The shaper frames required an extra plank. I realized when I made them I didnt take into account the curve of the hull. I thought of remaking them w the laser but the shop has been closed. Figured adding a little strip of wood would do just fine. And last I added the bow and stern blocks and have been sanding them into shape. 😌

Next update was to recreate the small bulwark. To avoid making the same mistake last time I created a sample dummy piece that I could get a feel of how it would look completed. Part of this process led me to design the scuppers which I picked from a series of small crimp beads. Then drilled a hole and added it snugly. Overall looks good and ready to make the real bulwark. Stay tuned.

The only thing that's missing are a few wood peg bolt indentations that I will add to the points where the belaying pin rack meet bit block using an awl pointed bit. I'll get to those details on a bit 😊

Before I decided on adding the railings I wanted to make a bit of ship furniture. So decided to make the belaying pin racks which as per usual 3rd times a charm. This was also done using the dremel drill press, strips of wood that are 5/64" by 5/64" and an aluminum sliding jig. I was especially proud of how I carved the top block. I also thought it time to add all the parts on deck so I could get a scale perspective. The height is about 7/16" and this rack was slanted to the degree of the mast! I also took the time to refurbish my little bilge pump and added a superior handle. Look at them all together now and also for scale you can see the boat on my palm. Only 9"!!