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  1. Pat, I can offer opinions on your questions, but they are just that, based on the conclusions I reached in interpreting the various sources while constructing Young America. The questions relate to very small details. You may be overthinking this. However, Q1. I would say no, the extreme rake of the masts notwithstanding. I do not believe it would be practical or important to angle the stops to avoid additional bend in the stay at the eye splice (or seizing) due to rake. I have seen no details of angled stops in any spar drawings. Q2. My guess is that, in general, majo
  2. Randy, I just use ordinary high speed steel drill bits. I believe the size of the holes is about 1/8"? Should be able to drill through most metals with that, certainly brass. Bits should be sharp, not old and dull, of course. Important to center punch as always. Let the drill do the work and do not use too much pressure. Medium speed. Should work without problem. Ed
  3. Randy, After center marking, I would clamp it down against a fence to keep it from spinning, then drill with the press or by hand if necessary. Holding it down is important. A spinning strip can be dangerous to your fingers. Ed
  4. Hi Randy, I do not believe you can go wrong with the Sherline tools. I have found them to be excellent, with an excellent array of additional accessories - all of high quality. So I do not hesitate to recommend. Greg's suggestion sounds like it would be very useful, though I have not seen the videos. I also found the book, Tabletop Machining, by Joe Martin, the late owner of Sherline, to be very good and written for people like us. The manuals that come with the tools are also very good. In the Naiad and Young America books, I did my best to describe machining steps in some d
  5. The model is looking fantastic, Pat. You might be splitting hairs on your questions, Pat, but I understand how wanting to get this detail right works on our brains. I suspect much of this detail was left in the hands of the shipwrights, so it maybe hard to go wrong. Cheers, Ed
  6. Nice work as usual, Gary. Making that functioning steering gear was one of the tasks I enjoyed most in building Naiad. Trying to remember how I joined those loose ends at the wheel spindle - time flies. Ed
  7. Hi Randy, Thank you for remembering that the List Of Dimensions takes priority. I assume you are referring to the aft frames 43a, 44a, 45a, which indeed show 2nd futtocks at 12" in conflict with the LOD that specifies these at 11" - a good example of why dimensions should be shown in only one place. I probably could not resist putting sizes on the pattern sheets for clarity and ready reference. A trap. Because the LOD was created directly from my sources before making any drawings, using those dimensions is probably best - in this case and in general. The difference on these pieces
  8. Slackwater, I believe the text is quite clear on this. The futtocks should not be sided until after assembly if you are using this method. To quote from Ch 5: Although frame components diminish in siding from bottom to top, all of the pieces should be cut from stock that is the thickness of the lowest parts, the floors or the lower futtocks. This will allow the frames to lie directly on the pin board without spacers under the upper parts during assembly. It will also provide an accurate basis for beveling. The sidings are smaller toward the ends of the hull, so check
  9. My preference would be to have you post questions here on the build log so that others may benefit as well - and offer answers and comments as well. I keep an eye on this daily. Ed
  10. Isopropanol is very quick and effective loosening pva glued knots - and very fast. Ed
  11. Hello Bob, Thanks for your comments. The splice shown in the first photo is one of many hundred used to lash one end of the ratline to an end shroud. the other end is made the same way but has to be made in place. I described this is the YA build log and in more detail in the book. In this case the loop is made by passing a needle through the rope then pulling it tight over a pin as shown in the picture. On these there is no wrapping below the joint. The contact between threads, plus the glue is sufficient. To finish the splice the short end is clipped off very close to
  12. I had some doubts about using emulsion glue (PVA), or matte medium (acrylic) to secure rigging when I started the rigging job on Young America. At 1:72 or 1:96, glue of some sort is essential. These doubts were completely dispelled, rescuing me from the ordeal of using CA for anything except stiffening rope ends to thread through small holes. Making strong eyesplices (perhaps a thousand or so) in the smallest thread sizes was a daunting prospect. The pictures below show the method used and to my mind represent an acid test for the Titebond wood glue that I used. The only connection on th
  13. Thank you for posting these, Steve. Having converted the posts relevant to the masting and rigging that were included in Volume 3, I know what a job this is. I hope YA 1:96 modelers - and potential modelers - will find these a useful supplement to the book. Good job. Ed
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