Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Pennsylvania USA

Recent Profile Visitors

3,131 profile views
  1. Thanks, again for the comments and questions. Maury, yours is easier so I will answer that first. The answer is: I have no idea. A ome will have to be found for this at some point - a problem for later. Greg, I believe an entire book could be written about what to do with rigging when there are no sails to attach lines to. Writing such a book would require much more knowledge than I possess. The question arises on virtually every running rigging line on a model without sails. Exhaustive examination of as many old photos as I could find, has yielded little in the way of common practice - or attention to any order. I believe much depended on preferences and am not convinced that modern practice is representative of past practice. Also, we need to consider that a big clipper like YA carried a crew of only about 50 (compared to ~800 on a 1st rate or ~300 on a frigate - both with half the sails) - not a lot of manpower to devote to appearance in port. It seems that very much of the modeling is left to our own devices. The specific lines you reference, lower sheets, tacks, clew garnets, and lazy tacks, in my opinion, are the most easily resolved. Since these lines are shackled together to the clew irons on the lower sails, keeping them attached when the sail is unshackled is not too much of a stretch to the imagination. The no-sails configuration to model is another question. I have seen pictures where they are hauled up to the yard by the clew garnets and the sheets left hanging to the deck. Hauling down on the tacks/sheets is also logical, since they may be easily accessed on deck when bending the sail. Pictures of ships in port are usually not portraits of neatness and order that we would like to see on a model. My solution for these is to hold the shackle some distance above the deck and secure all the lines neatly. This is also a convenient way to add downward tension on the model yard. I handle upper yard clews and sheets in the same manner and for the same purpose. In general, I have tried to adopt configurations that leave unattached ends in positions convenient to their eventual use, for example staysail and jib downhauls and halyards tied off together at the base of their stays, bunt and leech-lines stopped at their yard blocks (although these have to be overhauled to the deck to bend lower sails) reef tackle blocks tied off to jackstays, jib and staysail sheets omitted or coiled on deck, bowline bridles tied off to jackstays. I have omitted studdingsail rigging completely except for blocks that I believe would have been permanently attached. I am sure there are many other variations adopted on models - the most frequent seems to be the omission of many lines. Ed
  2. Thanks, everyone. Thanks, Druxey, for the comment on that photo. With that picture I was trying to get the view of the ship shown in the photo taken in San Francisco in the 1860's. Almost got it, but the confines of the workshop and bench height make it difficult. Soon I hope to get it off the bench and into a better setting for whole-ship photos. Pat, there are a number of lines on the model that hook to eyebolts on the channels, specifically the standing legs and tackles on the halyards, also tackle blocks on the fore yard braces. I will discuss the braces for the main double topsail yards and their disagreements with the crojack rigging in the next post. This kept me awake for a couple nights. Ed
  3. Young America - extreme clipper 1853 Part 321 – Running Rigging Continued Still working on the last 1%. Since the last post in late March, the remaining yards on the mizzen have been installed with their rigging. All yard braces had been left off up to that time because they are obstructive to working near the centerline and to reaching into the model to belay lines at the deck. With the completion of the mizzen yards, work on the braces is now well advanced and other finishing-up work has begun. The first two pictures show the model in its current state. Most of the upper braces have been installed. Because there is still a lot of work to be done at deck level, the braces below the topgallant yards are either left hanging or not started. The next picture shows the array of upper yard braces between the main and mizzen mast. This area is quite congested because the mizzen braces run forward. Fortunately there was no fouling of these lines. I say fortunately, because there is little flexibility in running these lines. The connections at the ends of the yard are, of course, fixed. Lead blocks that direct them downward are also pretty well fixed. Main mast braces need to be clear of mizzen sails at those points, as do their falls to the deck. Also, brace lead blocks need to be roughly positioned at heights midway between the upper and lower positions of their yards, otherwise braces would have to be let go to raise or lower the yards, leaving them free to move about. The next picture shows another view of the upper braces. Completion of work forward has progressed sufficiently to allow the sheets and tacks on the lower fore yard to be permanently belayed, as may be seen in the next photo. The three lines are shackled together with the clew garnets in the absence of sails. The tacks run forward to cleats on the catheads, the sheets run aft outside the shrouds, through the hull to belay on cleats on deck. The lazy tacks are belayed on the first pin of the main pin rails at the side. These lines were used to control the clew of the sail while shifting the load from sheets to tacks or vice versa, especially if disconnecting one or the other. This picture and the last two also show that the masking tape used to keep debris out of the hull has been removed, contributing greatly to the overall appearance. This came up rather easily, requiring adhesive clean-up in just a few spots. The next picture shows the focal point of most of the current work - installing rope coils over the belayed lines. This is fairly tedious work – making the coils, allowing the glue on them to set, then placing them over the pins and adjusting them to hang with some degree of realism. As may be seen, the pin rails are tightly packed. So much for all that careful turning of pin shapes. The last picture shows the really tight spacing on the poop pin rails. As mentioned in early posts, these rails were one of a number of possible solutions for belaying the many mizzen lines. Even with the closely packed pins on this rail and the one just forward of the poop break, several lines have to be cleated on the deck. The next post will continue with work on the braces for the lower three yards on each mast, and the interesting problem of routing those on the main mast to acceptable points aft without fouling the crojack rigging. Stay tuned. Ed
  4. Somehow I missed your post, Sailor - will try to locate the videos - any links? Ed
  5. Hello Mark, Apologies for the delay in responding to your question - busy days. I wanted to look at the belaying plan vs. the rigging list to see if my immediate reaction to the question about general patterns in the rigging were were at least reasonably correct. There is some logic to what at first glance looks like a disorganized tangle. I will stick to running rigging because standing rigging is very straightforward in comparison, and except for hardware changes, fairly constant over time. I cannot address changes over time to running rigging and suggest James Lees work for that. So with those caveats here are some general observations on what seems to be a consistent theme with running rigging on YA and perhaps most clippers in general during that era: Fore and aft sails – jibs and staysails: -Belay on centerline – fife rails, forecastle rail, spider bands – halyards at the after mast, downhauls at the forward mast/bowsprit. -Spanker – boom sheets, vangs, head in/outhauls to tackles at the poop rail, others run down the mizzen mast to spider band. Square sails: -Fife rails and topsail sheet bits belay heavy lines like lower topping lifts, clew garnets, lower and topsail sheets - also lighter reef tackles. -Buntlines and leech lines for all sails belay at the side rails, arranged from forward: lowest to highest, inner to outer. All these pass behind yards along masts through fairleads in the top and on shrouds above their belay points. - Upper yard halyards have channel mounted tackles - falls go straight to pin on side rails - balanced to both sides with gin blacks on large yards, single line to tackles on alternating sides for upper yards. - Lower yard braces run to block arrangements at the side channels and rails, belay on side pin rails between main banks astride masts. -Fore and main upper yard braces run toward blocks at center near after mast then to side rails. Mizzen braces run forward to main. - Belayed lines on main pin rail banks astride masts: fore to aft, lower to upper, inner to outer. - Upper yard halyards have channel mounted tackles - falls go straight to pin on side rails - balanced to both sides with gin blocks on large yards, single line to tackles on alternating sides for upper yards. - Lower yard braces run to block arrangements at the side channels and rails, belay on side pin rails between main banks astride masts. -Fore and main upper yard braces run toward blocks at center near after mast then to side rails. Mizzen braces run forward to main. In general: Belayed lines on main pin rail banks astride masts: fore to aft, lower to upper, inner to outer. It would take a much more knowledgeable person than me, to go beyond these observations. My basis - and the basis for the YA model design - consists of a number of ship-specific belaying plans and some general references. Hope this makes sense and helps address your question. Ed
  6. Interesting bit of work, Pat. My first thought about the overhang problem was that perhaps you could rotate and invert the tool holding fixture, putting the Dremel in backwards, to move the axis of the tool closer to the vise, but perhaps you already considered that. Hard to tell from the pic if it would work. I have the Vandalay thickness sander and really like it - robust and well made - with a big motor - saw me through Naiad and YA. Cheers, Ed
  7. A very good question, Mark. Let me give it some thought and try to respond. Evolution over time, except for for hardware and line material _ rope, chain, wire - is a bit outside my range, but there is a clear pattern to organization of the lines that probably made transfer of crew easier from one vessel to another. Will respond later. Ed
  8. Thank you, all. Pat, Vol III is progressing well. Ed
  9. Young America - extreme clipper 1853 Part 320 – Running Rigging Continued The last 1% always seems to be the most difficult to complete – or perhaps its just the most exhausting. It seems like not a lot has gotten done since the last post almost three weeks ago. A fair amount of time was spent adjusting tension on the 60-odd main mast belaying points – a time consuming task – and one that is dangerous for completed work that gets in the way. Not a lot to show for that effort. That is now complete and the pins should be ready for rope coils. Work has also been continuing on the mizzen yards, as shown in the first picture. The upper topsail and the topgallant were installed in the past couple weeks. Below is the view from aft. Below is a picture of the poop deck pin rail about half full and the last main deck rail forward of it – almost full. Installing mast trucks and signal halyards is in progress. In the next picture one of the trucks being bored to fit the its mast pole. The top is left a bit flat so the sheave holes can be drilled without slipping off the side. The next picture shows that work – with a very short bit extension. Below is a picture of the house flag, pre-assembled with its truck and halyard. The flag is painted with thinned acrylic gouache on some very old drafting linen that has had its wax sizing removed by boiling then washing. It is the house flag of the William Daniels Company of New York that owned the ship from its launch in 1853 until 1859, when it was sold to another shipper. The truck will be fitted to the mast pole without glue, held down by the fit and the halyard that runs down to the deck. This will allow it to be removed and replaced – a possibility. The last picture shows it flying from the top of the main mast. Similar trucks with halyards are being fitted to the other masts but without flags at this time. Ed
  10. Looks fantastic, Frank. Clean with beautiful detail. I sometimes envy the larger scale. Bravo. Ed
  11. It wasn't a rebuttal, Rob. It was a simple thank you. Ed

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
  • Create New...