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  1. You are welcome, Randy. Glad if I can help. I do know the effort involved to keep up an informative build log - almost as much time as spent on the model, especially when you consider photography. I probably went overboard posting pictures - around a dozen a week for a few years - and taking them for both the blog and the books - 200 to 300 per month four several years. It is a lot of work - to say nothing of constantly tripping over the tripod in the workspace. Again, good luck with your project. Ed
  2. Hello again Randy, This seems to be the one photo I have of the clamps at the stern. Keep in mind that the clamps will be severely dubbed off level on the tops to provide a flat horizontal surface on which to bed the deck framing. This was done later, after this photo was taken and before the beams were fitted. It is important when fitting these clamps that the height of the clamps as shown on the drawings sets the clamp height at the frames. The inner upper corner will be dubbed off. Note that the stern deadwood is not high enough above the cutting down line to allow the clam
  3. Hello Randy, History has not decided whether Young America's strapping was internal or external, so one cannot argue for either with any certainty. I tried and failed to uncover this. I believe the structural implications are equivalent, but the difference in installation difficulty between the two is not. Slotting frames to fit the straps inside would have been much easier and faster than scaffolding and doing this on the outside of the frames. Much of the work would be overhead. Because time and money was driving the building of these ships, I chose the internal option in th
  4. A feat of endurance no doubt, Adam. Thank you for your interest. I hope you found something useful. Cheers, Ed
  5. Now I am not so certain, Tony. On closer inspection and comparison with the drawings, the lower rail along the side appears very low. Also, the main and fore shrouds seem to be anchored inside the hull. That, along with the rounded poop - which could have been added - raises questions. Otherwise she seems a dead-ringer. I wish the picture of the stern below the poop were clearer. Ed
  6. Hello everyone, Maury S recently referred me to a site featuring photos from San Francisco history and this previously unknown - at least to me - picture of Young America was in the collection. Although the built up and rounded stern was something new to me, the rest of the picture leaves no doubt that this is indeed Young America - late in her career for sure. The rounded stern modification suggests to me that the entire poop deck was raised, including the helm, perhaps to increase head room in the cabins below, or to raise the cabin deck level to the height of
  7. Pat, I can offer opinions on your questions, but they are just that, based on the conclusions I reached in interpreting the various sources while constructing Young America. The questions relate to very small details. You may be overthinking this. However, Q1. I would say no, the extreme rake of the masts notwithstanding. I do not believe it would be practical or important to angle the stops to avoid additional bend in the stay at the eye splice (or seizing) due to rake. I have seen no details of angled stops in any spar drawings. Q2. My guess is that, in general, majo
  8. Randy, I just use ordinary high speed steel drill bits. I believe the size of the holes is about 1/8"? Should be able to drill through most metals with that, certainly brass. Bits should be sharp, not old and dull, of course. Important to center punch as always. Let the drill do the work and do not use too much pressure. Medium speed. Should work without problem. Ed
  9. Randy, After center marking, I would clamp it down against a fence to keep it from spinning, then drill with the press or by hand if necessary. Holding it down is important. A spinning strip can be dangerous to your fingers. Ed
  10. Hi Randy, I do not believe you can go wrong with the Sherline tools. I have found them to be excellent, with an excellent array of additional accessories - all of high quality. So I do not hesitate to recommend. Greg's suggestion sounds like it would be very useful, though I have not seen the videos. I also found the book, Tabletop Machining, by Joe Martin, the late owner of Sherline, to be very good and written for people like us. The manuals that come with the tools are also very good. In the Naiad and Young America books, I did my best to describe machining steps in some d
  11. The model is looking fantastic, Pat. You might be splitting hairs on your questions, Pat, but I understand how wanting to get this detail right works on our brains. I suspect much of this detail was left in the hands of the shipwrights, so it maybe hard to go wrong. Cheers, Ed
  12. Nice work as usual, Gary. Making that functioning steering gear was one of the tasks I enjoyed most in building Naiad. Trying to remember how I joined those loose ends at the wheel spindle - time flies. Ed
  13. Hi Randy, Thank you for remembering that the List Of Dimensions takes priority. I assume you are referring to the aft frames 43a, 44a, 45a, which indeed show 2nd futtocks at 12" in conflict with the LOD that specifies these at 11" - a good example of why dimensions should be shown in only one place. I probably could not resist putting sizes on the pattern sheets for clarity and ready reference. A trap. Because the LOD was created directly from my sources before making any drawings, using those dimensions is probably best - in this case and in general. The difference on these pieces
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