Harmstronginga
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Everything posted by Harmstronginga
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I finally finished the Galeone Veneto by Corel. I made changes to the kit. I used some decking from left over wood, purchased metal gun openings, decorated the bulkheads. The wood used on wood on frame ships is very thick and hard to bend. All in all it has turned out to be one of my favorite models. At the beginning I was ready to throw it out.
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I have built the Nina, Pinta and the Santa Maria and they are excellent models for a modeler with limited experience. Modelexpo has these models are fun to built. If ordered from Model Expo and you break something, these will replace the item at no cost, They are very good to work with on their Model Shipways
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I am in the process of building this kit now. I have completed the hull and attachments. This is a very difficult model because the wood is very hard to bend properly. Also the instructions are very poor and numerous details are incorrect. I have found that the material furnished is insufficient and in some cases poor quality. This is unusual for Corel models I have built in the past. I do not recommend this model. Also I have used extra wood I had on hand to cover the deck rather than draw lines with ink.
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Jerry, I left you a message on Victory but you will probably get it faster here. I am building the HMS Victory and want to copper the hull. How many pieces of copper came in your kit? My Corel Kit did not furnish copper for the hull. Your HMS Victory is excellent.
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Dragzz did you look at the area under the top deck to figure out how to finish the walls and place the guns in position? You can see the area through the opening in the top deck.
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Dragzz, changing the subject from planking, I want to through something at you to be thinking about. I have not figured out my approach. Maybe you might have an idea.Between column line 5 and 7 there are gun ports on the lower level. The area under the deck on the bulkhead is going to be hard to finish.
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Hi Dragzz You and I are about the same place on the Victory model. I went a little different route and did the 2x5 planking as I did the planking in the gun port area. It has been difficult to cut out the 2x5 planking at each gun port. Also the 2x5 planking is difficult to bend but I found away. I see you have already installed the metal gun ports with out painting them red as called for in the directions. Do you plan to leave them the metal color? Keep up the good work as I compare my status with you.
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Drazz I apologize for my comment that your planking was un-even. So was mine after the first plank. It is the curveature of the side I hope. Any way sorry for the comment. Your ship looked great. Hurry and get back to work. The fantail really has me baffled.
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I hope you get back soon to your model as I was pleased to see the progress. Sorry for the beam miss . I am planking now and cutting the holes for the guns. This has turned out to be very difficult. During my progress I noticed that the walls and underneather the deck at frame 4 is viewable and has to be covered with finish material, See what you think. Also the outer walls under the top deck between frames 5-8 will be visable through the hole in the top deck. I will now have trouble covering the walls with a finish product because the top deck is installed.. Another problem is going to be at frame 7 where the frame is in the way of a mounted canon. Again please comment . Believe me , I am just trying to build my model with some assistance. Not trying to be a nusiance. If you want me to stop I will.
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Dragzz , when you were planking, you were using the large nails in the kit to install your planking. There are some smaller nails included in the kit that work better. Model Expo sells a nailer tool that used the smaller nails and it works great. You don't have to use a hammer to drive the small nails. Just a tip that might be useful. Also I have the same similar slope on my model as you have. I measued from the top of the keel at the bow to the top of my top deck and I am very close to the dimensions on the drawings. I can't imagine trying to make major modificationd to the frames.
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Gil I notice you used your drill as a lathe. I don't have a lathe so I am interested in how you rigged your drill. Could you provide me with any drawings so I can use my drill. Thanks
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Dragzz I am glad you started over. Be sure there is a smooth transition over all of the frames and be sure to plank alternate sides every two or three planks. If you don't you will warp the frame. There is a good book that has helped me with modeling. It is Ship Modeling Simplified by Frank Mastini. I got mine through Modelexpo-online.com. The drawings do not call for any gunports for those between decks. If you plank there is no way to support these guns. Take a look at this area before you plank. I noticed it while installing some vertical supports where we have to cut out the gun holes. Do you have a picture of the fantail looking straight at it? I have your side view.
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Dragzz the planking looks uneven to me. Did you sand the frames to make the edges level and a smooth transition to the next frame . You are going to have a difficult time getting a smooth surface for the final planking. I have used Liqitex Modeling Paste to help level and it also helps with the gluing absorption when applying the finish planking. I would recommend you remove the nails because the planking is very thin. I hope you don't take this comment bad.
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Dragzz I do not have a ships log. I don't have that capability. I sure am glad you have one. The way I see your planking is that it should follow the deck line. It is not run straighyt as you have it.
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This morning looking at the model I realized the some of the gun mounts are away from basic supports. I was wondering if when you cut the planking for the gun holes would the necessary support be there. I am thinking that a vertical support might be required around the edge of the opening. The opening is about 10 mm sq plus framing. What do you think? I value your opinion as you model looks great.
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Dragzz your question stirred the interest in me. I took the piece that has the bow deck supports (4 pieces) and cut them out with a pair of scissors and a sharp knife. As I trimed the pieces, the cardboard backing begin to separate from the plastic. I didn't pull it off completely but it will come off easily. It appears the back can be lightly sanded and then painted if required. I am waiting on others to respond.
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A suggestion I might make to you is to paint the gun supports a brown or a black, With the gunmounts open it is possible to see the inside of the hull if not painted. This was recommended in the instrutions from a previous model I built. Just a suggestion.
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If I am reading the instructions correctly it says " Do not detach the thinner parts from the supporting cardboard but cut them out and apply with the latter. This is in the instructions under Assembly Instructions page 22. I am having trouble understanding the stern of the ships hull. It appears the planking wraps around the sides and terminates at the rudder support.Did you modify part extensively? I look at your pictures and I'm not sure what you did.
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I have been giving the gunports in the bow considerable thoughy and I think I am going to leave the lids closed. I think it will present both open lids and closed lids tothe model
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Do you have a picture of the bow section with the gun supports? They show guns in column lines 1,2 and 3. The drawings indicate enough room but my column lines are to close together unless I cut out some of the column supports. You said you were going to install some supports for the mast but it appears you have blocked yo self out of doing it.
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I am behind you on your construction and check your pictures with my effort. One of the things I noticed was there is no support under the decks for the installation of the mast. Therefore I installed a block of wood under the deck at each msat location. You might want to see what you think. Keep up the pictures I need them. The location of the gun ports seem to be a quess factor for me. Will just have to scale and hoe for the best. your pictures will help.
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I am going to start construction on the HMS Victory by Corel in January. I am now checking the contents and reading the limited instructions, In your photos, what size wood did you use to hold the keel in place? Also are you going to leave the ship natural or the painted version? I will be following your effort to construct this beautiful model.
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Does anyone have a recommendation on how to paint chain used on eylets? I trid to just paint them and really does not work very well. Some of you experienced modelers must have a way.
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Thanks for the info. The WP Number is the sheet wher they laser cut the parts. I have two WP numbers that are for 1/32" sheets but the don't list the knees. Therefor Tom Snow won't cut these sheets unless I know the sheet number.
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Mayflower -MS2020 Plans sheet does not spell out the 1/32" knees for the ship channels. In order for me to order replacement knees Model Expo needs the WP number that contain these knees. There are other knees that measure 1/16" but that is not needed. There are approximately 22 of these knees required.
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