Geoff Matson

Hatch coaming was glued and painted.

I started installing the grates. I will only put the grates on the starboard side of the hatch coaming so viewers can see the gun deck details.

“The Chopper” is great for cutting identical gunport frames. The metal attachments and reference lines can provide repeatable cuts. The unit is well built - very solid. The blades are single edged razor blades and are easily replaced. The provide a clean cut on the 1/8” basswood. I haven’t tried it yet on anything much thicker. 

Next I started the rudder.    I'm going with the older,  more square rudder than the current spade like rudder.   Note sure when the switch was made, pre or post 1812....  I didn't see date in the plan / CD.
 
I had roughed out the new rudder earlier... but I needed to make the pintles and gudgeons.
Made a simple jig.  piece of wood 3/16th wide... same as rudder    rounded off one edge. 
Then just bent the brass strips over it.  after a few tries.... was able to get them the right shape.    Made 10 total.   5 for rudder,  5 for hull.
 
  

Pintles were a bit harder to make.   I've never really soldered before....
After a few attempts, I determined I either needed 4 hands to do this.    Using pliers,  one hand to hole gudgeon,  one to hold the pintle, one to hold soldering iron and one to hold the solder wire itself.
 
As that wont work... made another simple jig.
Drilled a hole in a piece of scrape wood  same diameter as pintle
Put the brass wire in hole.
clamp the gudgeon  in proper position
 
Now with two free hands.. can solder away.    I put the soldering iron on the outside. and the solder on the inside of the wire.   heat drew the solder right where it needed to go.
 

 
Drilled a whole lotta tiny holes  for the nails
And a bunch of clean up.


 
Next up... I'll finish coppering the rudder and then attach the hardware.
 
Now a question , opinion from this esteemed group of modelers?
Looking at other Connie build logs....  I've seen several variations on the rudder hardware color.
  1)  leave the brass natural color
  2)  copper sheet over the gudgeons   or paint it copper to match
  3)  paint the brass black   so its black gudgeons contrast against the copper platting.
 
In the pics I've seen,  they all look good.    but I got a pick one before I continue.
so I'll poll you guys.... option.... 1, 2 or 3?
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Continuing to respond to your query on Mustafa's (mtbediz) blog, here are the seven additional images I have of the 1797 version model by Mark Antczak.

That is a lot of detail, but that is what makes the model. Nice job

Thanks for all the pictures. Hope you had a good time

You are right about the rigging. That is where I am right now.  I seem to find any excuse to avoid rigging. I do not know why it is such a hurdle to get down to business. That is the one good thing about Model Ship World, it will motivate you get going.  You might want to check out other build logs when you start to do the planking. You might need to put in some spacer blocks or braces between the bulwarks to aid in your fairing. Things are looking great and keep up the good work.

Looking good. It seems like when you think you have it right you can always find a little more to do. Your final test will come when you have your bulkheads all faired and then using a text plank to check how things fit. 

You got the stern filler blocks looking great. Now with the bow filler blocks, it should go a little faster by applying what your learned from the stern filler blocks. GREAT  progress so far.
 

Here is a picture that might help you some. If I remember right, my finish filler block was about half the size of my initial cutout. Lots of sanding and fitting. I just sanded it down until I could get a test plank to flow along the bulkheads and fit into the rabbit joint. You cn see the tail of the filler block gets pretty narrow. Just take your time and be patient. It will all work out. Do not glue the block in until you have it right. (I learned that the hard way). 
 
 

I am also building the Constitution using Bob Hunt's Practicum. You really need to read each step and then think about it and then proceed. LOTS OF DRY FITTING AND FIDDLING AROUND TO MKE SURE THINGS FIT RIGHT.  I too, made mistakes and had to go back and redo some parts. I think we all find out a little mistake in part one can lead to a big mistake by the time you get step 10. However, I could not have built the Constitution with the kit plans. Bob Hunt's practicum really opened the door for my ship building. ERS Rich build log should help you out. The biggest problem about the Constitution is it takes a long time to build. As I built the Conny my modeling skills increased and I wish I had those skills when I started.  Have fun, make some sawdust, and remember it is only a hobby. 

Looking good and a good job on your problem solving. 

Welcome to the group. The Constitution can be an overwhelming model. I think of our plan of working on an easier model to build your skills will pay off in the end
 
 

Main mast bitts have been fabricated and mounted in place.

I made quick work of the 5 stern inner bulwarks planks. I may have over beveled my first plank - according to the practicum (I’m going to call it “the guide” from now on) - I would need to shave the 5th plank a bit to match the 4 Stbd and port planks. Mine however- fit almost perfectly. I had a minor heart palpitation when I realized I still had a full half inch of rear transom risers after laying the 5th plank. I recalled seeing someone’s blog where they were flush with the last plank. Of course - that’s a step coming up soon to prep for the rail. 🙄 Every once in a while I get those moments when I think I totally screwed something up. Probably a hangover from Bob Hunt telling me I should start from scratch and that my rabbet was “terrible”. 😂 

Six down, three zones (or 10 strakes) to go.  Man-oh-man, am I ever ready for this stage of the build to be over!
 
I found some clamps at Amazon that, with a small modification (grinding flat the curved portion that is not visible in the photograph below), works well in the tight spaces I have left.   (See last photo in today's batch)
 
1. That clamp in action:

 
On to the build.
First, work-side up:

 

 

 

 
Then for a change of pace, right side up.

 

 
The clamp ad at Amazon:  Note, I tried gluing a wooden shim on the inside face at the bottom of the clamp as pictured below, but it didn't stick very well. In the end I simply ground off that lip using my belt sander, which made short work of it.  
 

Thanks for all the pictures. Hope you had a good time

That pump looks great.  I appreciate all the time that went into making the pump

Gripes installed.  The straps are made from black construction paper.  I did not use the rings from Model Expo because they were too small and the next size up was too big.  These are the same rings I used as breeching rings on the 24 pounder guns on the gun deck.  I have lost track of where I got them.

Now to rig the main braces.  I will also attempt to hang the flag which will add a dash of color.  Whether or not I use it will depend on being able to make it hang in a realistic fashion.

Flag installed.

This completes the model (!!!!!!).

Now my attention turns to finalizing the display starting with the cradle.  I would like to do this in mahogany to match the base board.  Let's see how it comes out.  Worst case scenario- I am unable to improve on what I have, in which case, I will paint the current cradle black.  We shall see.  More posts to come.

The Waterway and inner Planksheer are done. They were not very difficult from a technical standpoint (simple angles and shaping) - but they required a lot of patience. The shaping was good enough that I was able to use wood glue. Additional faring of the upper bulwarks was needed. 
 
I’ve now begun the inner bulwarks planking. The plank strips require some fine finishing with 400 grit sandpaper. Lots of measuring, cutting, gluing and clamping. The planks at the bow require some shaping and a touch of CA. 

Thoughts on painting. I never contemplated leaving Connie au natural. We all love this hobby for different reasons. Mine is not to showcase my skills (perhaps b/c they are novice), rather - to present a beautiful representation of history into my house that spurs conversation on the subject matter that I chose to spend so many hours upon. I was proud of my 1st time planking my only other model, the Swift. But b/c my planking results were uniform (after hours of sanding!), after painting- it was hard to tell it was an individually planked model. People who understand quality and detail, notice the planking upon close inspection. Others dont - but they would never appreciate the effort anyway.
 
So I paint. Now - traditional or air (spray)? I’m constantly humbled in this forum by the skill and historical accuracy & interest  attempted by my fellow modelers. Some folks present copies of original period plans of lower deck details. After hours of analysis, planning and execution- they then spray paint their ship. This I don’t understand. I mean absolutely NO disrespect - but after many hours expended in making a model historically accurate - why spray paint? I’ve been on the USS Constitution - and the thick layers of uneven paint give it an historical feeling of age, time, history and wonder. Like an old home’s wooden window sills. 
 
I’ve added some pics of a recent trip - (painting was not my focus). Anyone who has visited the Connie, or any other historical ship - will understand the feeling that layers of paint convey a sense of history. In my personally humble opinion- the difference between painting and spray painting an historical ship model is like the diff between the old Star Wars Movies that utilized actual models, and the newer movies with CGI. If you care - you will notice.

I too followed the Hunt recipe.  I looked at my own build log to refresh my memory.  This is all I have on the subject of foremast reinforcement tab.

Three Waterway sections completed - 2 to go. I went to Hobby Lobby with my daughter for a school project and found a piece of 3/16x3” basswood, so I decided to fashion the bow waterway in 2 sections vs the Hunt plan to use the supplied wood and use 4 pieces. The phone cam makes the bulwarks and keel look bent (they aren’t!). I’ll add the planksheer when the Waterway is completed. You can see where it was necessary to sand and shim areas for the decking. 
 
Question to the Conny builders about the mast reinforcements. I’ve been wondering if I should’ve cut the foremast reinforcement tab - the laser cut parts form a tab that rises (the mizzen and main mast sections were flush). I was wondering if this was meant to encourage the correct angle, or extra strength? How did y’all deal with it? I can still cut it out but not sure if I should.