rybakov

@wefalck
Hello Eberhard,
thanks for the nice comment.
 
Continuation: For topsail yard - studding sail boom iron
In the meantime I also made the outer studding sail boom irons for the fore topsail yard. Like the inner irons, they were made of brass strips with a width of 1.3 mm and a thickness of 0.25 mm. For brazing with a silver brazing paste I fix the pre-prepared parts on a ceramic plate, as already shown several times.
With the following picture I show how the assembly of the inner studding sail boom irons is done. The brass wire ø 0.4 mm, which still has to be shortened, takes over the function of a safety pin.


The next picture shows the outer iron of the fore topsail yard. The end of the yardarm is square with dimensions 2.2 / 2.2 mm.


In order to be able to carry out the assembly and rigging work on the yards comfortably, I made myself this holding device.


And finally, an overview of the construction status of the fore topsail yard, with the studding sail booms, which in the meantime has each received a hole at the octagonal end. At the outer end, a notch has been added for fastening the blocks.

The next step is the studding sail boom irons for the main topsail yard, the dimensions of which are somewhat larger.
To be continued ...
 

@druxey
Thanks for your nice comment.
Thanks also to all for the many LIKES.
 
Continuation: Equipping the yards - studding sail boom irons
After initial problems and a failed attempt, I set out with new courage to make another one. Probably to avoid the mistakes of the first attempt, such as brazing the fine parts of the hinges too much heat, so that they then ultimately become brittle and break off (see picture). In principle, it would also have been possible to make these joints with soft solder. However, for reasons of strength, I chose brazing.


On the next picture I show a photo collage, where single steps for making the studding sail boom iron are shown.

On the next picture you can see the studding sail boom iron still in uncleaned condition after brazing. The outer ring is still missing the hint of a hinge, which I will fix with soft solder.


Here a picture with spar:


And finally the result for the two inner studding sail boom irons of the fore topsail yard.


Making the outer studding sail boom irons should be much easier.
To be continued ...
 

Hello,
the bowsprit is now fast and the last „seats of ease“ are installed. The next things are the boomkin cleats. But that may take a little time.
 
Should I tar the gammoning? I'm not sure 

Hello,
the gratings are finished and the boomkins build. 

Thank you Jim!

At the weekend was "Dafi home alone". As children are, there was again goofing around to be done.

On the agenda was the doll's house in the back. In the kit there is only the bulkheads to the captain's cabin. But contemporary sources still show the bulkheads of the wardroom and the pantry for these two areas. Since the Constitution seems to me like a mixture of French and English influences, I looked at the various templates in the Boudriot as with all the England girls.

Also interesting is this Englishbeauty from the NMM, one of the few contemporary models where you can see the internal bulkheads.







The adaptation of the vertical structures to the inclined ship's side is very nice, but I ended up going with the classic vertical version. Interesting also the change of the height of the subdivision: at the ship's side at the level of the lower edge of the gunports, otherwise almost in the middle.

The first print came out quite usable.



The basic layout looks like this, the bulkheads in the captain's cabin are still missing.



And here are just a few impressions of what can be done. Focus on the bulkhead to the captain's cabin.







And here are a few pictures of the forward bulkhead and pantry.







Now it's on to the right fitting 🙂

XXXDAn

Continuation: Equipping the yards - studding sail boom irons
Since I am also interested in how studding sail booms work, that is, how to deploy and attach them, I tried to find more information in the relevant literature and on the Internet. In particular, the book "Seamanship in the Age of Sail" by John Harland describes, among other things, the handling of studding sail booms. This naturally results in various details on the spars themselves (of which later) and in this case on the studding sail boom irons.
 

Source: Seamanship in the Age of Sail, John Harland, p. 147
 
The preceding picture from this book explains very impressively that the studding sail booms, which were a handicap when sailing, were taken up and attached to the shrouds. To make this possible, the inside boom irons were hinged to open, which can also be seen in the contemporary drawings below. As can also be seen, these examples have different angles, depending on their chronological placement. This also corresponds with the observations of the photographs of contemporary ship models of the Musée national de la Marine.
 

Source: Internet_MSW_Archives_G. Delacroix_ca.1830
 

Source: Atlas_Brest_1850
 

Source: Atlas_Toulon_1854
 
As mentioned before, the Paris Museum has kindly provided me with a high-resolution overall image of La Créole, from which I can obtain additional information to Jean Boudriot's monograph. Especially in the case of the studding sail booms, it can be seen that they were clearly arranged in front of the yard, without angles as shown in the monograph. This also corresponds to the temporal context.
In this respect I orientate myself for my model on the drawing, which I received thankfully from G. Delacroix via MSW. Similarities between this drawing and the original Paris model, as shown below, are clearly recognizable. Also I see there the already described details on the historical drawings confirmed.

Now I will get to work on the realization for the model. I hope to find a way to produce these difficult details as far as possible. A special challenge is the mounting of the inside studding sail boom iron, because I have to choose a two-piece design for it due to the expansions at the yard arms, if possible with hinges like on the original. I have already made comparable hinges for this model as attachment for the front fishes. But this time it has to go one size smaller.

I decided to make the studding sail boom irons for the fore topsail yard first, because they have the smallest dimensions.
Bigger is always possible...
More about that soon ...
 

As always thanks for the clicks and comments to the gentlemen and of course the ladies 🙂

At some point I noticed again the dark hole to the orlop and also how painful I still have to suffer on my Vic because of a similar omission 😉

So I prepared two matching blocks, took out the big tweezers ...



... and sank the blocks from above through the hole into the depth, with huge amounts of glue positioned underneath. In addition, also fixed supports to sides, so that they do not end up later as shaken goods.

Of course, there was a stowaway right away ...



.... which my little brave sailor had to drive away with death-defying courage.



Then prepared the deck ...



... for this purpose photographed a piece of deck and printed it out tiled.



Colorwise I could have done some corrections, of course, but for this purpose it does quite well. I'll put a grating or something similar over it later anyway.



But how to get the parts in there? The prepared piece of deck was fixed with a little double-sided tape to a long ruler ...



... luckily I had spotted the small gap in the stern and with a loud *yikes* rammed it inside ...



... and pressed it into the right place into the glue waiting there, aligned properly ...



... and let the gentleman of the quality control look over it 🙂

Was accepted so, luck!

XXXDAn

Continuing on with another small update. The aft seats have been added to the ship. This was tricky stuff and there were a few attempts needed. So, yeah, Nothing new. I used a tapered a dowel inserted into the hole as a helping hand when test fitting and gluing them in. Only a small amount of PVA at the notch surrounding the moulding and along the edge that sits against the false rail.

Mike

Moving along. .
 
An easy way to align the first two sides of the poop scoops is to use a jig similar to what was used to round up the coamings.

The poop scoops are completed. The alignment being that they are parallel to each other vertically and the tops are flat across the top. I found that the best way to do that was to set one first, before moving onto the other one. The three battens on the outside really help to hold them firmly in place.

Mike
 

One thing I almost forgot to mention. .
 
I think that It's very important to keep the two inner battens parallel or at least at the same angle relative to the center line of the hull. It's quite noticeable if one batten is at a different angle than the other. Just something to be aware of when you get to this stage of the build.

Mike

More grating work completed this week. As you can see I have not spent a lot of time on paint work. It's just too easy for things to get scratched while working in this area. I lowered the notched batten at the hull around 3/64" since the angle appeared just a bit too steep.

Mike

I've started on the head gratings. A few of these battens are quite small, yet none of them managed to fly off into nowhere land. All of the joints needed a bit of wood filler before painting. I added the first coat of black paint of which more are sure to come.
 

Mike

Well, I'm not sure if I would call it a milestone, but it does feel good to have finally finished the head timber work. It's challenging and sometimes tedious work. The secret to any kind of success is to just slow down and think things through as much as possible. The head gratings are next.


Mike
 

Work continues with the completion of the cathead rail. A ton of fitting, tweaking and re-fitting in order to get something that I liked. It would be great if one could add the thin outside layers in one piece instead of a splice. Of course that would be more difficult to do since both halves of the rail would have to be glued together first, while matching the shape of the hull at the same time.
 
Anyway, here you go. .


Mike

I've been looking forward to getting the cover boards completed, not necessarily doing them. I had to file down a few of the head timbers or change the angle slightly before I could glue the boards in. I recommend using slow drying CA and not PVA. I also removed some of the moulding under the frieze to make things easier when it's time to fit the lower rail.
 
Anyway, now that they are done I am feeling pretty good about how they turned out. Now its onto the lower rail.
 

Mike

I finished up the second main rail today. More black touch up needed and then onto the head timber cover boards.
Mike

Hello and thank you for all the nice comments and likes,
today only the painter was active and because the paint must dry, the carpenters had nothing to do 😃

I'm looking at the moment how to build the rest of the grating. Especially the seats of ease and the boomkins. The drawing for the 1745 establishment shows the boomkins I think in a wrong way. The smaller part should be at the outside of the ship and the heel not against the stem, but against the knight-head. That is what Falconer and also Goodwin write. May be it was earlier in this way? 

Here is a picture of the model SLR0472, build 1745. I would build it this way. The grey boomkin above. I would think, that this is a strait boomkin bend by the rope to the bow. Goodwin writes at page 224, that the heel was butted against the knight-head. What did that mean? Later it was bolted, but what is later? After 1730 he wrote, the boomkins look like the one at the picture below. 

@tlevine
 
Hi Toni,
thank you for your interest in my construction report and the appreciation of my work.
Many thanks also to the others for the many LIKES.
 
Continued: Equipment of the yards
As announced in the last part of my construction report, I equip the larger yards with real discs. As before, I make these discs out of brass and blue them. As far as I know, these discs were usually made of lignum vitae. The rather dark brown coloring of this wood can be easily imitated with a blue finish.
For the main yard and the fore yard, the sheaves have a diameter of 2.9 mm. The main topsail yard, fore topsail yard and mizzen yard are fitted with sheaves with a diameter of 2.0 mm.
With the following series of pictures I would like to illustrate how I make the sheaves. Since my turning skills are limited and with these small diameters, I made the circular groove with a jeweller's saw. The fine saw blade I use for this has a thickness of 0.15 mm. I can control the width of the groove. The more inclined I lead the saw blade, the wider the groove. As a rule, the groove has a width of around 0.2 mm.

 
After cutting the sheaves, I grind them to the required thickness according to the size of the protrusion for the sheaves, i. H. about ø 0.6 mm or 0.8 mm. For grinding, I made myself an aid, the tip of which engages in the axle hole and thus enables the sheaves to be guided more or less evenly for grinding.


 
 
The axle bores of the sheaves were made with ø 0.8 mm larger than the axle diameter ø 0.4 mm itself. This makes the installation of the sheaves much easier and also compensates for small inaccuracies.

 
The next pictures should give an impression of the installation of the sheaves. As can be seen in the second picture, the axle holes are not exactly opposite. This is due to the fact that I have to drill the ø 0.4 mm holes for the axles from each side. If you try to drill these holes in one go from one side, it can easily happen that the hole on the other side does not arrive in the middle due to the thin drill and other inaccuracies. This is then much more disturbing than the axis points that are not exactly opposite, which is no longer noticeable after the shortening anyway.


After shortening the axles, the ends are filed clean with a micro file and blued. The filing creates a small burr, which usually makes it no longer necessary to glue the axles.
The last picture shows the finished yardarms of the fore yard, main topsail yard and mizzen yard.

 
It then continues with the stunsail boom irons. There are still a few open points to be clarified, as always... 😊
Sequel follows …

@AJohnson
@jfhealey
@hollowneck
 
Hello,
Thanks for the positive comments, also for the many LIKES.
That motivates even more.
 
 
Equipping the yards
In the meantime, I have started to fit the ends of the yards with sheaves, over which the sheets and reef tackles are then passed.
In the lower and topsail yards, the holes for sheave were made with the 0.8 mm and 0.6 mm milling cutter, with the exception of the mizzen topsail yard. Brass turned sheaves will be installed there later.
For the topgallant and royal yards with the mizzen topsail yard, the sheaves are only suggested due to the size. The following pictures show the individual processing steps.
 
1. drill holes with 0.5 mm

2. finishing with 0.5 mm wood hollow chisel

3. rounding out with 0.5 mm shank drill bit


The last picture shows the yard arms of the main topsail, fore topsail and mizzen topsail yard.


I think that the "fake" sheaves in the mizzen topsail yard are reasonably convincing. I have also used the same method on many blocks.
See you soon ...
 

Continued: ship's compass
Some time ago I was concerned with the question of what the part at the back of the binnacle of the La Créole is. There is much to be said for a soft iron corrector, the so-called flinders bar. Lighting would also be conceivable based on the shape. The discussion, including in the MSW, does not yield a clear result. After I got to see historical compass housings in the meantime, where the lighting was arranged below the compass rose, I personally tend to think that this could have been a lamp. Also because of the fact that this corvette was a wooden ship, i.e. had little iron to influence the compass, and on the other hand lighting seems to be quite useful and necessary. In the end I can't say for sure.
So I decided to just build this thing and leave it up to the viewer what he thinks it is.
On this occasion I revised the compass and remade the wooden case. The lamp ? or the soft iron corrector? was made from a round brass rod ø 1.5 mm analogous to the photos of the Paris model available to me.
 


Sequel follows …

@jdbondy
Hello,
I sand the surface of the spars with 500 grit sandpaper and finish with a fine steel wool.
 
Completion: Yards and spars
With the production of the lower studding sail booms, which are attached to the fore-channels, I could finish the chapter yards/spars for my corvette.
So I had to show all the spars in their entirety, as you can see below:
 
This completes the woodwork on this model except for more blocks and a few odds and ends.
I am currently researching the studding sail boom iron, among other things. Also for this there is a multiplicity of variants, which are to be evaluated and classified chronologically correctly. The monograph of J. Boudriot leaves some questions open.
See you soon ...
 

@shipman
This steady rest I have built with simple means.
With this I can position small ball bearings for round logs with diameters of 1 - 10 mm for support. The simple tool has already proven itself very well. 

@Nunnehi (Don)
@matiz
Hello,
thank you for the interest and the good comments, and thank you also the others for the many LIKES.
 
 
Continuation: Making the topgallant yards - Vergue de cacatois
In the meantime, I have started making the topgallant yards. As already written in the last report, the topgallant yards are even thinner and more filigree, like the topsail yards.
The dimensions from the plan documents of J. Boudriot were again compared by me with the data of a contemporary original document. This table shows the dimensions of the masts and yards of the La Blonde, which is identical in construction to the La Créole. All dimensions corresponded to the drawings, as is clearly shown in the following drawing.
 
I have already noted that with these dimensions at ø 1.4 mm it is no longer feasible without a steady rest. A toothpick, for example, has a diameter of 1.8 mm. In this respect, particular care should be taken here and not too much pressure should be exerted on the roundwood.


The shaping of the square edge with the octagonal yardarm also requires sensitive processing, which can be seen in the next picture.


At the end of this work, a comparison of yardarms:
Main yard, mizzen toppsail yard and mizzen topgallant yard
 
Now two lower studding sail booms have to be made to hang on the fore channels. 
With the gaff (upper spar) and the driver boom (lower boom) already made some time ago, all the sail-carrying spars for the French corvette are then ready. They will then be equipped with the necessary fittings (sheaves, boom irons, etc.).
To be continued ...

 

Continuation: Making the yards - Topgallant yards - Vergue de perroquet
After the topsail yards, we continued with the making of the topgallant yards. 
Here is a quick look at my workplace with the most important utensils for making the yards:

 
The diameters of the topgallant yards, especially in the outer sections, range around 1.6 mm. In this respect, it is not surprising, if you work without a steady rest, that it can sometimes come to breakage. 

 
At the latest when working on the yardarms, it is advisable to support the filigree yards with a steady rest.


The next picture shows the finishing of the octagon in the center of the yard.

 
The last picture should give an impression of how filigree the topgallant yards are compared to the lower yards. It shows the yardarms of the main yard compared to the mizzen topgallant yard. The octagon of the yardarm of the mizzen topgallant yard still has a width of 1.3 mm at the outer end.

 
Of course, the royal yards can be made even thinner and more filigree. Especially the octagonal shaping at the yardarms requires special care.  
To be continued ...
 

Maybe the compass question can still be solved,
in the meantime things will continue with the yards:
 
Continued: Making the yards - main topsail yard - Vergue de grand hunier
For long enough I evaded the decision to execute the yardarms of the main topsail yard. Further research on this did not bring any new findings.
Now that the holidays are over and with renewed vigor in the new year, I have decided on the following embodiment of the yardarms of the topsail yards, as already signaled in one of the last posts:

So now we can continue with the production of the yards.
Sequel follows …