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dafi

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  1. Hello William, congratulations for your persistence and the want to learn! If this is the mizzen mast the Slice is right, if this is the main or fore mast then the pendants should be looped over the masthead in a pair like the shrouds do. Here a cutout from Peterssen. As for the blocks, McKay apparently omitted them - as it was for many years on the V. in P. Steel is using Single 24 Inch for main and fore (15 and 36 in AOTS and the spreadsheet that I did send), and 11 inch for the mizzen. Also for Runner and fall that are hooked in there Steel uses normal single and double blocks, as for most of the literature there are long takle blocks mentionend. For your build there is a sprue in the standing rigging section called "Pendants of Tackles" 015-036with enough good blocks of the said size. Also the 11 inch for the mizzen and topmasts can be found there 🙂 I added a PDF with an overview which blocks to be found on what sprue, hope it helps. I did some more crosschecking on the matter of blocks and added some more blocks to fit for different rigging sources. All those that already did purchase blocks, there will be a new version of the spreadsheet and free "extension set" coming soon 🙂 XXXDAn Layouts Blockversand V3.pdf
  2. Laniard imho ok, but see my scribble for the rest. The joint of the ropes is hidden underneath the seizing. XXXDAn
  3. Just a small warning for those who follow the sequences of my build: Please remember to put the shrouds before putting up the stays! My stays are up for test purposes, I will still have to reopen the lanyards take the stays off, fit pendents and shrouds and then finally reset the says and its lanyards 🙂 All the best, DAniel
  4. Just a small warning: Before the main- and forestay can be set, do not forget to put up the shrouds! XXXDAn
  5. Well done 🙂 For the blackening: I usually take a dry brush with black paint and go over it after assembly. Takes out all injuries in the blackening from the tools, adjustes the color and blends in with the other paints and also covers all possible white spots fron the CA 🙂 XXXDAn
  6. Wonderfully done! Congrats! Please allow me a remark: The 3rd boobstay that splits into two legs is not the optimal solution. It is shown in Longridge and other literature, also it was featured for many years on the exhibut in P. The preferred solution would be to be fixed in a new hole just underneath the upper two ones. XXXDAn
  7. Hello B.E. wonderful work, as always from you! Just rediscovered this thread and enjoyed your astounishing work. Small remark/question for the knot in the channel from fixing the the rudder pendants. In the most probably contemporary model of Victory LR0512 http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66473.html the pendants do not stop there but run through the channel boards up to the poopdeck to be secured on a clamp there. Is there a contempoprary source that indicates where the pendants were usually led to? Also concerning the small leather tube that protects the port lid lanyard: I had it alraedy in one of my models faked by a bit of white glue to give volume and a bit of black paint. looked convincing at my small scale. All the best, Daniel
  8. Yes, dafi knows how to do it, dafi hasn't forgotten anything ... ... ... ... the wrecking ball! What happened again? I always say it, my biggest problem is getting the big exhibit in P. out of my head. For almost 20 years now, I've been looking forward to those great special shoulder and quarter blocks that I discovered back then back there, building them exactly according to McKay and Bugler's plans and, in my exuberance, not even realizing that they are much rounder in the classic literature ... Thank goodness there are some people in my german pack and also here in the MSW who are not so obsessed and have a keen eagle eye and have pointed this out to me. Thank you! So I made new rounder blocks. I used this too to do some more research, as I was slightly irritated at the first pass when I noticed that these blocks on the foremast lower mast and topsail are all the same size, just like on the main mast lower mast and topsail. Thanks to you @druxey for reassuring me in theses sizes and confirming this on the basis of Steel's information. At this point, in response to a few questions, I would like to repeat the painting method: first, using an old disheveled brush, two layers of very thin paint in a darker brown, which is the base color. The thin paint makes it easy to get to the sides without pasting over the holes. The highlighting color in a lighter brown, applied with a dry brush, is applied on top. This emphasizes the edges and the depths remain slightly darker, which gives optical depth. And the deliberately uneven application of color keeps the whole thing alive and no longer looks like plastic. Then the grand finale: as the new round blocks are the same size as the old square ones, simply press the new ones back into the strop from the side and you're done. The same with the sheet quarter blocks, before - after http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif You see dafi still can do it http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif XXXDAn PS: All those of you that already got a delivery of blocks will get a free upgade of the blocks in question http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif
  9. Now I got, it Allan 😊 Bill is still at the hearts for boopstay and bowsprite shrouds. You are right, the lower hearts for main and forestay are different as the collars for the mainstays are single ones and the ones for the forestays are taken double. Here is the fixing of the Stays in my Model, the bowsprite gear is aready fixed.
  10. The old Warthog 🙂 Just a comment for the collars of the hearts. Even though some assembly instructions indicate all 3 Harts together in 1 collar, it schould be 1 collar for each single heart, means 7 altogether. This is historically correct and believe me, even for the model building much easier than fitting all in 1 collar while levelling out the lengths properly 🙂 XXXDAn
  11. Next, of course, was the combination of blocks with a shoulder block for the top sail sheet and a normal block for the lift on the yardarm. First the two blocks stropped together ... ... then still smuggled in with bright rope the loop for the horses onto the cleat and finally tied in the eye for the double block at the outside. First one side ... ... and then the second ... ... and everything for the lifts is on the yardarm 🙂 XXXDAn
  12. I've been busy lately and haven't had much time to tinker. But the list of blocks to be used on the Vic and the corresponding rope thicknesses has finally been finalized. Time to check some of them out. As the blocks are sorted by yards and other locations, here is the block set for the main yard. Since the main yard has already been started, I've taken on its lifts. First the hangers. As usually served with white glue and black paint. The loop underneath the cap that holds the hanger together. And here the assembly on a spare mast cap. More hopefully soon. XXXDAn
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