Small Stuff

Look Gluck with your personal rebuilt, Mark. Oh yes it's a bold descission.
But I think it's the best you could do for yourself. And I copied your "Lessens learned" into my Literature - folder together with the sentence:
"Buying tools cheaply'll bring you to buying it twice."
Yours
Stan

I don't have a 1/48 planking or dechsplankingh plan - All I've got is the Chapell's drawing  I atteched in here above. I don't trust the Corel's drawings - so I don't think I should enlarge them from 1/64 up to 1/48.
 
So as you told me the drawings of the Ancre Schooner will be very helpfull to me.
 
Here my backbone II with my first trial to place it on a stand.
Hoping you like it,
 
greeting over the seas,
 
Stan
 
 

Good luck with that one, Mark!  maybe, just maybe, if that side project for "She who must be obeyed" is of suitable result, she may relax the requirements for just this once...maybe.

Well, I hate to say it, but this log is now terminated.     I knew about a year ago that it might come this but not in the way I thought.   There's been a lot of lessons learned and I'll give some of them as they are also reasons for terminating this log.
 
However... I will be starting a new log on Licorne once a fresh supply of framing material arrives. 
 
Lessons learned:
 
1) Use only one set of drawings.  I started by using two and assumed that they were dimensionally the same.  Wrong!
 
2)  Be darn sure that the reference points are adhered to throughout the build.   A couple of points on this one.   Hahn's drawings use a 1/4 inch build board, I used 3/16 inch thick board.   My confusion came on as I thought his measurements went from the bottom of the build board up.. they didn't.  Only the frame drawings had the full build board thickness and I made a faulty assumption but apparently not consistently as I'm off as much as 1/16th of inch in places.
 
3)  Add reference lines in the cutting process of frames.  I took measurements after the frames were cut and was led astray by 2).
 
4)  What I found acceptable even two months ago in my build, I find unacceptable now.
 
5)  I've discovered better ways of using my power tools with time and usage.  
 
6)  Use only quality wood and reject out of hand anything less than quality.  There's places where I "made do" and I'm less than happy about it.
 
7)  Keep the fingers away from spinning tools -- like milling bits and saw blades.
 
8)  Even the master messes up.  I noticed in photos that there's errors where things just didn't go together right on Hahn's model and he tweaked it.
 
9)  It's a hobby dammit!!!!!!!!   Slow down and enjoy the trip not the destination.
 
Anyway, thanks for following along on this journey of discovery and I hope the next will be better.  It has to be since I learned from this one.
 
Lastly, expect more idiotic questions as I go... It's still a learning process.
 
See you on Licorne... Version II.

Okay Eamonn,
 
thank you for these bouquet of very good solutions... I updated my between-ears-software by reading{1.  As I read the "holes" in the grating were max. 50x50 m/m   {2 due to the heel's measurement of the shoes theier days - not slapsticly getting stuck in the hole with the heel By this "rule" the holes will be 1,0467 x1,0467 m/m    But the "problem is the viewers can see deeper inside wehen the look between the tick woods - don't konw how the tell you - the graphic in the picture may hopefully give you an idea you need... :blush:
 
So I think I'l have to get a little bit deeper in the hull depending on the angel of the view of the visitor.
 
It is very logical to read in the books and suddenly getting so complex to "translate" it into just and only the "planing" of a part of a model {3
So I thing cutting away something from the false keel/backb'n' has always to be "answered" by strengthem it by adding wood (or a sheet of metal)
 
And all this without any 1/2048 cubicinch of wood in my hand...
 
 
 
_______________
{1Oh yes it's an oldfashinon way doing so. ...as my child was made in Germany & born - not ordered, paypaled & downloaded
 
{2Mondfeld "Historical Shipmodels. A manual for modelbuilders"/Mosaik edition 1978 (p. 122 "Grätings" )
 
{3 lots of  thinks receive attention coming "from diffent corners" of the model and the original... I've to admid I'm feeling a little bit like a person between two dimensions - the one dealing with the originalship in a 3D-copymachine to reduce it down to 1/48 of it's original size by transforming the originally used material into something still working honing it down to the scale size. In the other dimension i've got my plan 2D triying to enlarge it into something in the room. With the goal of  "filling" the reduced original from above. {4
 
{4 A typical misidea was to pull b'lkh'd "A" away from the mastfoot just cutting a new slort into the backbone... and realising that I'll change the waterlines doing this- than I tried to alter the sections outlines...
And here the result:       

Here may be a greenhorn's solution - let's be cruel!!!  So I think about shorten of the slot for the mast
add some softwood all arround all the rest of length under deck to fix it propperly...
 
and may be the most tricky idea
let's turning arround the construction concept for the one B'l'k'head "A" so it is to be put in from Australia...
 
I hope it'll worl because the edged between B'lk'head and Backbone are filled with an pice of wood already... as tried in "Ranger" to force the B#lk'h'ds in rectangular order.

Okay Eamonn,
 
thank you for these bouquet of very good solutions... I updated my between-ears-software by reading{1.  As I read the "holes" in the grating were max. 50x50 m/m   {2 due to the heel's measurement of the shoes theier days - not slapsticly getting stuck in the hole with the heel By this "rule" the holes will be 1,0467 x1,0467 m/m    But the "problem is the viewers can see deeper inside wehen the look between the tick woods - don't konw how the tell you - the graphic in the picture may hopefully give you an idea you need... :blush:
 
So I think I'l have to get a little bit deeper in the hull depending on the angel of the view of the visitor.
 
It is very logical to read in the books and suddenly getting so complex to "translate" it into just and only the "planing" of a part of a model {3
So I thing cutting away something from the false keel/backb'n' has always to be "answered" by strengthem it by adding wood (or a sheet of metal)
 
And all this without any 1/2048 cubicinch of wood in my hand...
 
 
 
_______________
{1Oh yes it's an oldfashinon way doing so. ...as my child was made in Germany & born - not ordered, paypaled & downloaded
 
{2Mondfeld "Historical Shipmodels. A manual for modelbuilders"/Mosaik edition 1978 (p. 122 "Grätings" )
 
{3 lots of  thinks receive attention coming "from diffent corners" of the model and the original... I've to admid I'm feeling a little bit like a person between two dimensions - the one dealing with the originalship in a 3D-copymachine to reduce it down to 1/48 of it's original size by transforming the originally used material into something still working honing it down to the scale size. In the other dimension i've got my plan 2D triying to enlarge it into something in the room. With the goal of  "filling" the reduced original from above. {4
 
{4 A typical misidea was to pull b'lkh'd "A" away from the mastfoot just cutting a new slort into the backbone... and realising that I'll change the waterlines doing this- than I tried to alter the sections outlines...
And here the result:       

Deconstructivism!!! The copies wer'n't mirror-inverted So I stript off the portside and as I have done I got the idea to documentate it for you - so I was forced to add the red arrows in the scan to show the failers more clearly....As I haven't got a scriber I used a cutterknive for scribing.
(The DigiCam doesn't still want to work - so I put the basebord brutally in the scanner! Edit this makes fun )

Hey Stan ; 
 
I liked the word, Deconstructivism And your scanner idea is perfect !  
 
Waiting for more  
 
Bugra.

Hy to all of you - the discussion with Wayne brought me to be very conservativly and caused by this the Projects names sounds now very stiff and wooden:
 
 
 U. S. Revenue Cutter of 51 3/95 tons  1815
constructed by Doughty, William 
drawing by Howard I. Chapelle

1st pic: Stupidly cutted off my scaling ruler on the top of the papers...

1st pic: Stupidly cutted off my scaling ruler on the top of the papers...

Dear friends,
as I proofed my Corel-kit being an abbreviation of a 51 3/95 tons Revenue Cutter scaled to 1/64 (instead of the 1:50 advertised on the box's cover!) with an overstreched bowsprit to give it a goodlooking Loa in the sizelist I'm disappointed of the kit! So I go ahead foreward to the original drawing of Howard I. Chapelle in hin famous book: "The History of the American Sailing Ships" page 193. There we can find a propper drawing of the 51 3/95 tons Revenue Cutter (see below). And there will be a plenty of stupid beginners questions like: What material is perfect to fit the requirements of these or those part.
 
So I'm going to start the 1/48 scratch parallel to the 1/64 kit.
 
 
 
Hopefully you like it - meenwhile I'm going to my copyshop to enlarge to books drawings up to 1ft = 6,35m\m . Than I'm going to scan the pictures and give you a list of detailled booksides to find them in your public libary arround the corner.
 

Hello stan ; 
 
I usually use 4mm plywood. It's easy to find and cheaper than other thicknesses. 3mm or 4 mm will be fine guess. Hm? 
 
Bugra.

Thanks to all of you - I'll begin with somethine quite primitive... the building yard board. Just glueing the waterline and inverted waterline drawing together to know where the sections have to been put.
 
But this'll be tomorrows work.
 
What would be the best plywood thickness to buy fore the backbone and formers-bulkheads?

Thanks to all of you - I'll begin with somethine quite primitive... the building yard board. Just glueing the waterline and inverted waterline drawing together to know where the sections have to been put.
 
But this'll be tomorrows work.
 
What would be the best plywood thickness to buy fore the backbone and formers-bulkheads?

Hello Stan ; 
 
Wish you good luck with your build. Waiting for the next steps.

Bugra.

Thanks Eamonn - she is really a beauty - wait for the pics coming next... that's a honey!
 
Geetrings to the Greenest Island ->
!!!

Best of luck with this build Stan, tis a nice looking Cutter!
 
Eamonn

Dear friends,
as I proofed my Corel-kit being an abbreviation of a 51 3/95 tons Revenue Cutter scaled to 1/64 (instead of the 1:50 advertised on the box's cover!) with an overstreched bowsprit to give it a goodlooking Loa in the sizelist I'm disappointed of the kit! So I go ahead foreward to the original drawing of Howard I. Chapelle in hin famous book: "The History of the American Sailing Ships" page 193. There we can find a propper drawing of the 51 3/95 tons Revenue Cutter (see below). And there will be a plenty of stupid beginners questions like: What material is perfect to fit the requirements of these or those part.
 
So I'm going to start the 1/48 scratch parallel to the 1/64 kit.
 
 
 
Hopefully you like it - meenwhile I'm going to my copyshop to enlarge to books drawings up to 1ft = 6,35m\m . Than I'm going to scan the pictures and give you a list of detailled booksides to find them in your public libary arround the corner.
 

Dear friends,
as I proofed my Corel-kit being an abbreviation of a 51 3/95 tons Revenue Cutter scaled to 1/64 (instead of the 1:50 advertised on the box's cover!) with an overstreched bowsprit to give it a goodlooking Loa in the sizelist I'm disappointed of the kit! So I go ahead foreward to the original drawing of Howard I. Chapelle in hin famous book: "The History of the American Sailing Ships" page 193. There we can find a propper drawing of the 51 3/95 tons Revenue Cutter (see below). And there will be a plenty of stupid beginners questions like: What material is perfect to fit the requirements of these or those part.
 
So I'm going to start the 1/48 scratch parallel to the 1/64 kit.
 
 
 
Hopefully you like it - meenwhile I'm going to my copyshop to enlarge to books drawings up to 1ft = 6,35m\m . Than I'm going to scan the pictures and give you a list of detailled booksides to find them in your public libary arround the corner.
 

Stan -
 
Thanks for stopping by.  I have put this one back on the shelf for a spell.  I just can't seem to get the hull faired right for the planking to sit flush, so instead of using the axe and chainsaw to correct my goofs I opted to put it safely out of my reach until I can figure out how to fix that which I up-ge-fluggeled (highly technical Homeland Security term meaning messed up badly).
 
Will be watching yours to get a better idea of how it should be done!

Hy Wayne,
 
could you do any progress with your "Ranger"?

The most important think is -so I have been told - getting so fit in  my plans sheets that I'm able to walk over the deck in my mind. And being able to make a  perspectiv drawing of my best love - best moring in the water. I think about the colours - the lower parts black and the upperparts in the classical french greenish blue colour like in the painting of "L'Aurore".
 
Do you think it is realistic - for a schooner of the french restauration navy?

Hello friends, I've got the copies and cutouts now.
So I've had to rolled them and stored in my rack -
 
to avoid any deflexion form the "USRM Ranger".
 
But I could place a doubled copied sheet at a sinle unshelfed left wall...
as a kind of optical motivation by the wounderful plan No.5