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Posted

I’m Bruce from Minnesota. Before I finish the planking, I need advice on the best way to mate/join the stem post to the stem and stem planking. I hope my photos tell the story. The instructions say to plank the hull on step #3. They want the stem. Post attached on step # 19.  Any advice is appreciated. Thanks, Bruce

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Posted

That seems to be a bass-ackwards way of doing it. Generally, the stem is attached to the keel and the planking is fitted to the stem as the planks are hung. You are going to have to carefully trim your planking so the stem fits in there and the planking edge, which will be very thin at the end, lays in a fair line when viewed from the side. Usually, there will be a rabet (grove) cut into the stem for the plank ends to lay into, rather than the plank ends being feathered against the flat of the stem. That way, there's a fair line between the plank seam and the stem and full-thickness meat at the end of the planks to place a fastener through into the stem to keep the planks from popping loose. You'll have to use a good strong glue to keep the planks attached to the stem there. It will be difficult to do it neatly if you want to keep the wood bright (clear finish.) It will be a lot easier if you use epoxy fairing compound or an equivalent and paint the hull.

Posted
3 hours ago, Wedan said:

Thanks Bob. I’ll try your method and if it gets ugly, I‘ll use the epoxy fairing. Would you recommend an epoxy fairing? Thanks, Bruce

An epoxy fairing compound will give you some strength and be easily sand-able, but it's not essential for a display model if you have good glue bonding between the planks and the stem and keel parts. If so, any fairing compound is suitable. Epoxy is a pain to use. It tends to get all over and clean-up is a problem. It's also relatively expensive. For fairing, i use Interlux Surfacing putty, a product sold in chandleries for marine use. It's thinned with acetone and a can lasts forever. (Put a tablespoon of acetone into the can when you are through with a use, tap the lid down to get a good seal, and store the can top down. It can be "thinned" in this way by letting it sit overnight.) It sands very easily and has a very fine grain, unlike some other alternatives like drywall "mud." Any of the modeling "puttys" will work, of course, but on a per ounce basis, they are hugely overpriced, IMHO.

 

See: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=4154

 


 

Posted

It turned out better than I expected. I went into my careful and slow mode while watching an old Western on TV. It was “Lawman” with Burt Lancaster. It was a good. Bruce

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