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Posted (edited)

I'm looking at future planking of the aft deadwood to figure out how to taper the deadwood into the rabbet. Should the rabbet be very wide, like starting at the bottom of the frames and extend all the way to the keel? Can I just make the deadwood narrower than the keel so the planking lays right or should the planks be right tight against the deadwood (fayed?)?

 

Also I was looking at Dan's Vulture build and noticed this little jog in the garboard plank. Why is it there?

HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - 1:48 scale - 16 gun "Swan" class sloop from TFFM plans - Finished - Page 4 - - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800 - Model Ship World™

Post #113

Edited by Don Case
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Posted

The rabbet is at the top of the keel only and is basically the same depth it's entire length.  The bottoms of the frames at the deadwood are above the rabbet and rest in steps or in some cases along a curved bearding line that is cut into the deadwood.  There is tapering vertically and horizontally along the length and height of the deadwood.   Look at the various scratch build logs here at MSW and you will find how this is done.  Not sure if your project has steps or a curved bearding line, but the tapering is present for either style.  It can be done with a mill, chisels or assembled as a sandwich of three laminations.  The photos below show individual laminations for a 50 gun ship of the late 17th century and the assembled laminations in the second photo.  It is pretty easy to cut and then taper the outer laminations and glue to the center lamination.  The bottom of the assembled deadwood will rest on the keel where the rabbet is.    I know the jog was pretty much standard, but I don't recall the reason for it being there.

Allan

75898872_Deadwood.thumb.jpg.74d8feea886e0c6a3042537bbdc87e37.jpg678517948_Deadwoodassembled.thumb.jpg.a82296668112bc9c0f9b93257498dce4.jpg

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