allanyed's post in Chain Plates Gor 16th Century Spanish Galleons was marked as the answer
Have you watched the videos of the ten year San Salvador project? There may be some clues there as they did a ton of research before building the replica. I have no idea how accurate they have been but the old video here is quite interesting.
There are lots of photos of this ship on the net since she was launched that show the chain plates which look like those of the 17th century.
Also, there are photos of a 16th century galleon at the RMG Collections site. The model is modern (1988) but based on contemporary information. Note that one of the builders of the model was noted author James Lees. The description of the model is as follows:
Scale: 1:96. A full hull model of a Spanish galleon (circa 1588). Built in the solid and plank on frame. Model is decked, equipped and fully rigged, including details such as a pair of anchors, deck gratings, flags, decoration around the stern and bulwarks, and a number of scale figures in the rigging and on deck. This model and the English equivalent (SLR0358) have been built from a design by David White, formerly of the NMM, based upon contemporary evidence and known naval architectural design. By comparison, the Spanish ships were much higher and rounded in the midship section. Spain did not possess a permanent force of sailing warships in the Atlantic before the 1570s. Twelve royal galleons built between 1568 and 1570 were deemed to small for fighting ships, and the three building programmes between 1578 and 1591 aimed to produce large ships that could carry a great deal of sail, many guns and would be able to overcome their opponents. This model represents one of the new, large galleons of the Armada period.
You can get high resolution photos from RMG.
allanyed's post in Hollow needle to make wooden pegs. was marked as the answer
Marcus, assuming the inside diameter is .65mm, the size is about right for treenails in a hull for 1:48 scale. For smaller scales it is oversized. You probably need something like a 21 gage needle like those made by Becton Dickinson and others. They go down to much smaller diameter as well.
Have you tried making treenails with a draw plate? Bamboo treenails are incredibly strong and easy to make with a good draw plate such as the one from Jim Byrnes. With a typical hull having upwards of 10,000 treenails, making them with a hypodermic needle is a task most would not want to try. If your scale is 3/16=1 inch or smaller, treenails will ruin the look and probably be better left off. Many otherwise beautiful planking jobs on the hull and decks have been ruined with oversized treenails. There are a number of posts on making these using different methods and different materials from fishing line to wire to different wood species.
allanyed's post in Planking the aft deadwood area was marked as the answer
The rabbet is at the top of the keel only and is basically the same depth it's entire length. The bottoms of the frames at the deadwood are above the rabbet and rest in steps or in some cases along a curved bearding line that is cut into the deadwood. There is tapering vertically and horizontally along the length and height of the deadwood. Look at the various scratch build logs here at MSW and you will find how this is done. Not sure if your project has steps or a curved bearding line, but the tapering is present for either style. It can be done with a mill, chisels or assembled as a sandwich of three laminations. The photos below show individual laminations for a 50 gun ship of the late 17th century and the assembled laminations in the second photo. It is pretty easy to cut and then taper the outer laminations and glue to the center lamination. The bottom of the assembled deadwood will rest on the keel where the rabbet is. I know the jog was pretty much standard, but I don't recall the reason for it being there.