Colin Archer by Frodo - Billing Boats - 1:15

[Frodo]

6 hours ago, Geam said:

Hi Frodo, in my kit the 'Colin Archer' name looks like it' a transfer. ie. soak in 37*C water. I have not tried it yet but thought I would try the "TR 141" bit to see what happens.

Thanks for advice, I will do so with the "TR 141".

[Frodo]

10 hours ago, Geam said:

On another matter, have you noticed the part number 54? there's 2 of them. Called 'Mast Hoop'. The plan drawing shows ONE at the base of the mizzen mast. The part 41 is also called a 'Mast Hoop' This is at the base of the main mast.

 

I have not seen part 54 in place at the foot of the Mizzen mast on any model RS1 and I cannot see it at the mast foot on photos of the original RS1.  

 

I wonder if they are intended to be fitted as support rings above and below where the mizzen passes through the mizzen mast support plank, part 35?? The mizzen is secured on the sole of the cockpit/steering well, so I cannot see why it needs TWO support rings at part 35. 

 

Funny, when I had used all the parts from the kit I had 2 rings extra, and I could not figure out where they were suppose to go. Apparently I've missed the nbr 54 "mast hoops". Thanks for noticing George.

See attached pictures, guess they say it all

 

12mm rings:

Pictures from the instructions (that I didnt notice until you made me aware George).

I think I will cut one of them in to halves and mount at the base just for the look. I dont think there is a technical need for the support rings ("Mast Hoops").

 

Edited April 25, 2022 by Frodo

[Frodo]

Lately I've been working on the sails. It sure takes a lot of time as my sewingmachine skills are a little rusty. 

 

The mizzensail is complete. As mentioned in earlier posts I first folded and glued the edges with a 1mm white cordline as core. This provided a stiff and neat form to the sails. Then all the edges and patches are sewn. In the corners I have made "loops" to have as tack/clew points. I will not need a loop in each corner of the sails, but the can easily be cut of.

The "cornerloops" are made of the excessive 1mm cordline which then were twinned in 1mm "brownish" thread...

[Geam]

Thank you for all the sail-making photos Frodo. they will help a lot when I get that far. Need a sewing course first though.

George

[Geam]

2 hours ago, Frodo said:

Funny, when I had used all the parts from the kit I had 2 rings extra, and I could not figure out where they were suppose to go. Apparently I've missed the nbr 54 "mast hoops". Thanks for noticing George.

Se attached pictures, guess they say it all

 

12mm rings:

Pictures from the instructions (that I didnt notice until you made me aware George).

I think I will cut one of them in to halves and mount at the base just for the look. I dont think there is a technical need for the support rings ("Mast Hoops").

Cannot find out why there are TWO nr 54 rings. Maybe one should go below the part 35?

In the instructions for the all-wood kit (728) there is only ONE ring for the mizzen foot. Different part number though...75.

2 hours ago, Frodo said:

 

 

[Geam]

Received a reply e-mail from Billing Boats. The new owners of Billing do not know anything about the '414' kit they say. So they do not know why there are two nr 54. One of them deffinately should go on top of the mast support nr 35 as shown on the plan. So the other one can be stuck anywhere it might look right!🤪

 

George 

[Frodo]

4 hours ago, Geam said:

Received a reply e-mail from Billing Boats. The new owners of Billing do not know anything about the '414' kit they say. So they do not know why there are two nr 54. One of them deffinately should go on top of the mast support nr 35 as shown on the plan. So the other one can be stuck anywhere it might look right!🤪

 

George 

Thank you George 👍

I ended up putting the 2 x nbr 54 as depicted. One above 35, and one at the floor of the cockpit:

 

Edited April 27, 2022 by Frodo

[Frodo]

An update on the sails, which now are more or less complete for mounting. It takes time "building" the sails, but it is great fun. I could not find any details on how to attach the sails to the rig so I improvised from my own experience. My solution might give others an idea of how they would have done it, so Im just posting some close up pictures.

 

The two genoas:

I decided to attach the rear genoa with 10mm chainlinks, as I find the small rings provided with the kit rather weak. 10mm chainlink has an opening of 8mm, the wire is 1,5mm and the chanlinks are approx 5mm from leading edge of sail, this give a small airgap of approx 1,5mm between the sailedge and the forestay. It is 20mm between each chainlink.

Mainsail sewn with "reefropes":

I used 4mm eyelets as reefeyes. I believe the reefeyes should be placed on the trailing edge made from rope, however this solution is close enough   I'm considering to sew the edges of the eyelets with white thread.

Topsail is "sewn" onto the topmast. About 20mm between each "ropeloop". The cordline in the fold is important for a strong edge to sew in:

Edited April 28, 2022 by Frodo

[Frodo]

Hi, just an update on the CA-project with some random pics.

Currently there are ropes and lines "all-around" as I'm figuring out how to do the RC-servo set-up.

I've used ropes/lines from Billing Boats, Syren and Amati.

 

I'll post some more pictures when things are less messy on deck in a few days.

 

"Attaching" the lifebuoy I used a rope which was sewn onto the wire, I know the original is somewhat more robust, however I like the clean look.

I'm not sure if the sheet for the genoa will work with RC-setup depicted below, I might have to simplify it.

Hoops and loops in place on main mast, very time-consuming and demanding for fingers and eyes....

I guess the deck will require 2-3 more layers of lacquer.

Made a little dinghy, but it became way to small (10 cm ish) for a 1:15 size, need to get a bigger one

Edited May 7, 2022 by Frodo

[Frodo]

Anyone know what the "eye on the railings" (in red circle) is suppose to do? Installed it according to manual.

 

[Geam]

Hei Frodo, haven't noticed that particular eye-screw. but I am hunting around the drawings to try to find out many other small parts. I expect that you do have one further forward for the foresail  sheet guide-block?  Billing Boats like to keep their customers guessing, it seems.  

Yes dinghy is indeed too small. Have suppose that you seen my semi-scale effort? '

 

George

[Geam]

Had a look at the drawings. The eye-screw you refer to is for the nr 3 halyard (uphaul) for the foresail (klyver). You need to study both the plan view and the side view drawings.  The halyard  goes from the pin rail (naglebenk) up to a block and back down to the eye-screw on the capping rail. The same eyescrew is used to anchor the next block up in the sytem too! This system apparently gives a 8X leverage to tighten the forlik of the Klyver sail. If you follow the nr 3 sheet you will see a few more blocks in the system before you get to the top of the klyver sail! The Klyver  sail does not have a forestay but on the RS1 has a wire sewn in to the forlik of the klyver.

[Frodo]

4 hours ago, Geam said:

 

Yes dinghy is indeed too small. Have suppose that you seen my semi-scale effort? '

 

George

Yes, I have seen your Sarik "jolle". Looks nice. But I couldn't find it on the Sarik site. Do you know if the "jolle" has a modelname?

[Frodo]

3 hours ago, Geam said:

Had a look at the drawings. The eye-screw you refer to is for the nr 3 halyard (uphaul) for the foresail (klyver). You need to study both the plan view and the side view drawings.  The halyard  goes from the pin rail (naglebenk) up to a block and back down to the eye-screw on the capping rail. The same eyescrew is used to anchor the next block up in the sytem too! This system apparently gives a 8X leverage to tighten the forlik of the Klyver sail. If you follow the nr 3 sheet you will see a few more blocks in the system before you get to the top of the klyver sail! The Klyver  sail does not have a forestay but on the RS1 has a wire sewn in to the forlik of the klyver.

Thank you. I re-checked with the plans, and can now see its nbr 3. Indeed a lot of blocks and halyards

Edited May 9, 2022 by Frodo

[Geam]

I'll check up on the dinghy...

George

[Geam]

Hei Frodo.

On the Sarik site--if you write 'dinghy' in the 'search' window at the top of the page. you will see the list of dighys.       When I searched just now  it was the third down on the list. The have a 13" and a 9" plastic clinker hull. £11.00.       I bought the 9" as reckon this is the nearest to a correct size for the RS1.       Sarik were going to produce an all-wood kit of a 9" clinker built dinghy, but I never checked up to see if they actually put it into production.     I did not even look further down the list today, so maybe it's there now.       Anyway, I did not want to start on a miniature clinker-built wooden hull!

 

You need to mark and cut the sides of the hull to get a shape to resemble a 'Nordlandsjolle'.  The line of the bow is not quite the right shape, but when all the other detail is added it looks good enough I think.        I can post some of my construction photos here on your build log but first you have to say if you actually want them on your log!      You may have already seen them here -or on the Model Boats forum?       Not sure if I posted the actual build photos on modelshipworld.  

George

[Geam]

Hi again Frodo, not the same topic at all but... do you -or anyone else- know what part nr F697 is for?  The parts list states that there is ONE of these in the kit. My kit has THREE. The same part is listed for the '728' -all wood RS1 and here too there is only listed ONE in the kit. 

 

It is obviously a static block or dead-eye, has a tiny hole through it from the side. I have not found this part marked on the drawings....yet. It's probably there, but where! 

 

Otherwise, I'm not sure the blocks and securing 'eye-pins' F92/I, are strong enough to handle such a large sailing yacht. I suspect that originally the RS1 kit was designed as a static model. 

 

 Some of the 'eye-pins'  might be exchanged for screwed-in  eyebolts  on my RS1.....and maybe the blocks for the foresail sheets will be brown-painted metal.😬       Anyway I can't use modern metal blocks and tackle as on my Fisher34  model so it will all have to be well epoxied in place and hope for the best.    Not planning to sail in stormy weather anyway.🤢 

 

George

[Frodo]

4 hours ago, Geam said:

Hei Frodo.

On the Sarik site--if you write 'dinghy' in the 'search' window at the top of the page. you will see the list of dighys.       When I searched just now  it was the third down on the list. The have a 13" and a 9" plastic clinker hull. £11.00.       I bought the 9" as reckon this is the nearest to a correct size for the RS1.    

 

You need to mark and cut the sides of the hull to get a shape to resemble a 'Nordlandsjolle'.  The line of the bow is not quite the right shape, but when all the other detail is added it looks good enough I think.        I can post some of my construction photos here on your build log but first you have to say if you actually want them on your log!      You may have already seen them here -or on the Model Boats forum?       Not sure if I posted the actual build photos on modelshipworld.  

George

Thank you, I found it on the Sarik website now. Ordered a 9'' right away

 

I saw your pictures in another thread, and think I will build something similar of the Sarik "jolle".

[Frodo]

4 hours ago, Geam said:

Hi again Frodo, not the same topic at all but... do you -or anyone else- know what part nr F697 is for?  The parts list states that there is ONE of these in the kit. My kit has THREE. The same part is listed for the '728' -all wood RS1 and here too there is only listed ONE in the kit. 

 

It is obviously a static block or dead-eye, has a tiny hole through it from the side. I have not found this part marked on the drawings....yet. It's probably there, but where! 

 

Otherwise, I'm not sure the blocks and securing 'eye-pins' F92/I, are strong enough to handle such a large sailing yacht. I suspect that originally the RS1 kit was designed as a static model. 

 

 Some of the 'eye-pins'  might be exchanged for screwed-in  eyebolts  on my RS1.....and maybe the blocks for the foresail sheets will be brown-painted metal.😬       Anyway I can't use modern metal blocks and tackle as on my Fisher34  model so it will all have to be well epoxied in place and hope for the best.    Not planning to sail in stormy weather anyway.🤢 

 

George

I only have one of the F697, and I dont see it on the building instructions either

However, it could very well be used at the "root" of the boom/mast.

I didnt install it thou... but F697 could be attached to the "metal eye" I guess.

Edited May 10, 2022 by Frodo

[Frodo]

3 hours ago, Geam said:

Otherwise, I'm not sure the blocks and securing 'eye-pins' F92/I, are strong enough to handle such a large sailing yacht. I suspect that originally the RS1 kit was designed as a static model. 

 

 Some of the 'eye-pins'  might be exchanged for screwed-in  eyebolts  on my RS1.....and maybe the blocks for the foresail sheets will be brown-painted metal.😬   

I also suspect the RS1 to be a static, so I have also done some adjustments:

 

Used 1,5mm steelwire as forestay (1mm should be enough, but couldnt find it in store).

Used 10mm steel chainlinks on the genoa ("forre stengestagseil" in norwegian).

Made "loops" at some of the sailcorners.

Mizzen

All sailedges are folded and glued with 1mm cordline in center, then sewn. Makes the edges stiff and durable I believe.

Edited May 10, 2022 by Frodo

[Frodo]

Status as of now;

I will continue to work on the RC-setup. I dont think the original genoasheets will work together with the "klyver seil" (the one most to the right). I'll try to post some photos on the issue a little bit later, but I think the mainissue is that the two sails dont have the same "leverage" (gear-exchange), and I was planning to put both sails on one servo... tbc...

 

 

Edited May 10, 2022 by Frodo

[Geam]

Hi, the photo you posted of a round bead with a hole in it is part F347 -I think. There should be 11 of these. I forgot to post a photo of the what I think is part F697 which is a tiny dead-eye... (jomfru? in Norwegian?) I have 3 of these, but maybe they are not F697?

 

As regards R/C control, I am only going to control the foresail (Klyver) with a sailwinch.  My inner foresail will be left to self-tack on a thin elastic sheet tethered to a small 'horse' just forward of the main mast. To control the inner foresail properly would need a dedicated servo I think. It would be complicated -and maybe even impossible- to set up these two sails from the same servo.

 

My sheets to control the klyver run in guide tubes up through the side decks abeam the main mast.  I will take a photo and post it on my RS1 log. These sheets will then be run through blocks on the capping rail. Not sure if I will use the kit blocks but will probably try these first. Replace them with brass blocks if they break.  

 

I have noted your changes with regard to making the RS1 more suitable for R/C sailing. Look like very good ideas to me👍

 

George

[Frodo]

2 hours ago, Geam said:

Hi, the photo you posted of a round bead with a hole in it is part F347 -I think. There should be 11 of these. I forgot to post a photo of the what I think is part F697 which is a tiny dead-eye... (jomfru? in Norwegian?) I have 3 of these, but maybe they are not F697?

 

As regards R/C control, I am only going to control the foresail (Klyver) with a sailwinch.  My inner foresail will be left to self-tack on a thin elastic sheet tethered to a small 'horse' just forward of the main mast. To control the inner foresail properly would need a dedicated servo I think. It would be complicated -and maybe even impossible- to set up these two sails from the same servo.

 

My sheets to control the klyver run in guide tubes up through the side decks abeam the main mast.  I will take a photo and post it on my RS1 log. These sheets will then be run through blocks on the capping rail. Not sure if I will use the kit blocks but will probably try these first. Replace them with brass blocks if they break.  

 

I have noted your changes with regard to making the RS1 more suitable for R/C sailing. Look like very good ideas to me👍

 

George

Now I understand, yes it is the nbr F697.. I only had one of those small woodpieces (F697). It goes at the rear end of the mizzenfork to hoist the flag in. I will try to make a photo later.

 

Edited May 10, 2022 by Frodo

[Frodo]

I still have the part F92/M, not sure where it suppose to go. Any ideas?

[Frodo]

F697 above the flag.

Edited May 10, 2022 by Frodo

[Frodo]

This is the chainlinks that I use for various purposes. By turning one end 180degrees you get a "hook" shape.

[Frodo]

So about the earlier mentioned "dead eye" and rope nbr 3. Here is what I ended up with, however I am not sure if its 100% correct. 

The rope from the upper most block in the picture is attached to the fall for the "klyversail". The other end of the rope tied to the pinrail on left side of mast.

Edited May 10, 2022 by Frodo

[Geam]

Your 'nr3' ropework seems good to me!

 

Thanks for finding F697. It's clearly marked on the drawings for the top half of the sailplan, but I did not see it!  Not sure yet if F697 for the top of the flagline or part of the mizzen rigging.  Don't know why I have 2 more than in the parts list. Will find somewhere to put them.

 

Part F92M is a 'rudder horn' -to attatch the rudder servo to the rudder. It is nicely marked so you can bend it to 90*

 

I will consider chainlinks to strengthen some of the parts. Where did the chain come from? Clas Ohlson?...etc. Made something like that on the Fisher34 but can't remember where the chain came from!

 

George

 

[Frodo]

11 hours ago, Geam said:

Thanks for finding F697. It's clearly marked on the drawings for the top half of the sailplan, but I did not see it!  Not sure yet if F697 for the top of the flagline or part of the mizzen rigging. 

 

Part F92M is a 'rudder horn' -to attatch the rudder servo to the rudder. It is nicely marked so you can bend it to 90*

 

I will consider chainlinks to strengthen some of the parts. Where did the chain come from? Clas Ohlson?...etc. Made something like that on the Fisher34 but can't remember where the chain came from!

 

About F697 I saw it in the photo on the box for the kit.

 

The chainlinks I cant remember, think I bought them 5 years ago for a similar project. But I'm a big Clas Ohlson user

 

F92M as rudderhorn is not needed then I guess, I mounted another one I had laying around. But thanks for clarification.

 

[Frodo]

 

Posting some lessons identified so far, might prevent others from doing the same.

The two following photos below shows the original setup for genoa sheets, it will for sure not work properly.

However, if I skip the "dead-eye" on deck and take the sheet straight from the genoa via the deckblock, then I get approx. the same traveldistance on the servo as with the "klyversail". And I will get rid of the two blocks attached to the cleat on the sail... that could work... in theory. I will give it a try.

Another issue: The "loops" I made for sail sheets gets tangled up in other lines when I tackle. Therefore I need to find another solution. I am considering removing the "loops" on genoa and "klyversail", maybe made from eyelets.

I also need to make the "harpoon" removable as it gets will get tangled up in the mainsheet.