Colin Archer by Frodo - Billing Boats - 1:15

[Geam]

Photos on the boxtop......mmm I seem to have sent them to someone in the post!😁 But I have photos of the boxtop...many say that the boxtop gives more build info' than the "look-alike instructions"

 

Is the hole in the hull for the rudder linkage well sealed? It seems very near the waterline.

 

I'm studying your idea for controlling both foresails. I have not taken any measurements myself yet, but  I think that the clew if the inner sail will have to be able to move through an arc of approx 15-20cm. The clew of the klyver will need to move through much more because it has to go all the way around the forestay when tacking. Maybe a block on the inner sail would give a 50% reduction and reduce the movement of the foresail clew -in relation to the klyver.  I'm thinking while I'm writing, and that's not always a good idea for me!  I'll have some breakfast then think while actually looking 🧐 at the RS1 deck!

 

You are doing great things with your RS1, and kindly giving tips about the build to the 'world'. Keep up the good work. I look forward to seeing your sailing videos on YouTube!

 

George 

[Frodo]

The hole for the rudder linkage will be sealed for sure, hopefully I dont forget to do it...  

 

About the distance that the inner foresail and the klyver will  move: 

• Rope nbr 4/inner foresail: has a block originally on deck (blue circle), and I've kept it, so it gives a 50% reduction as you mention.
• The part of rope nbr 4 (in red circle) has been removed. The rope comes back from the a medium block attached to the clew of the inner foresail.
• However, this is theory... sailing in practice might give another truth

 

 

[Frodo]

Reconsidering servo setup below deck. I could use a total of three servos incl mainsail if I want to/need to have separate controll of "jib" (flyer) and "stay sail" (inner foresail), however not necessarily... inspired by the "sailtails" youtube video:

 

... but then I'll most likely will have to remove the cabin/saloon...

Edited May 12, 2022 by Frodo

[Geam]

Ahhh, so it's Gringo Bob to the rescue! I have in fact have had e-mail correspondence with him about headsail control ...and the Fisher 34 layout. Yes you will need som space in the hull to do this. I am not sure that it is needed in the case of the RS1 though. Fisher 34 was a nightmare of 'string' below decks.

I've seen some YouTube videos where the headsail is simply left to be on the wrong (windward side) on one tack, but  the RS1 still seems to sail OK. But it looks a bit strange!

 

So long as it floats, it'll look good anyway!

 

George

 

 

[Nick Alderson]

Hi everyone,

I too have just joined this forum to see how the rest of you have got on with the Colin Archer. I am building my third one in 9 years so I have forgotten some aspects of this build. The instructions really are poor but I suppose it makes it a bit more of a challenge. Lots of "one step forward, two steps back". The kit I bought had been in store for years, ABS hull version and lots of the laser cut pars held in place with sellotape.
I think the trick is to be patient and work carefully. One thing I can't find is the height of the supports for the railings. Any ideas ?
Nick

[Frodo]

1 hour ago, Nick Alderson said:

Hi everyone,

I too have just joined this forum to see how the rest of you have got on with the Colin Archer. I am building my third one in 9 years so I have forgotten some aspects of this build. The instructions really are poor but I suppose it makes it a bit more of a challenge. Lots of "one step forward, two steps back". The kit I bought had been in store for years, ABS hull version and lots of the laser cut pars held in place with sellotape.
I think the trick is to be patient and work carefully. One thing I can't find is the height of the supports for the railings. Any ideas ?
Nick

Hi, and welcome. Indeed there is some "forward and backward" combined with trial and errors

 

If you are referring to the wooden support I found this hidden in the manual (nbr 16 into 18mm pieces):

 

Here is also a link to the instructions I found it in (2xpdf):

https://www.billingboats.com/index.php/modelboats-footer/1/120/boats/discontinued-models/P-bb414-colin-archer-d

Edited May 19, 2022 by Frodo

[Frodo]

Short update, currently trying to create the Sarik "jolle" (dinghy):

Edited May 26, 2022 by Frodo

[Frodo]

Another update. I guess I'll have to say that both the models now are done "exteriorwise". Still need to do the RC-work and the interior of the Colin Archer, the Sarik "jolle" (dinghy) I consider to be complete.

 

The stands for the boats are painted with same color as the anti-fouling. I do however have a concern that the CA now weights close to 9 kg and it puts a lot of pressure on the hull while in stand, worst case it could "pop" the deck. Guess I will remove the leadballast to avoid damage while in the stand.

Rig-top:

The baseplate for the stand measures 38cm x 26 cm:

The sail is just hoisted for photosession  It will be lowered and packed while being pulled behind the mothership or on static display.

Thanks for watching

[Prowler901]

Outstanding work!  They are both lovely models.  Looking forward to following the RC set up.

 

Todd

[Frodo]

Today I had to create some more details just because it is fun

 

6 old fashion fenders made from "jutetråd" (from corchorus-speci-plant), a rope made from hemp/hamp ("hampfenders" could be the English word?)

 

A tiny anchor (old fashion grappling hook style), as I remember them from my childhood in small rowboats.

And a fishing harp, measures about 17mm x 17mm.

 

Edited June 1, 2022 by Frodo

[Geam]

Very fine workmanship Frodo. You are a fast builder.  Nice too see the 'Nordlandsjolle-ish' dinghy too. Hope you added some lead so you can tow it?

Looking forward to seeing both afloat this summer.

 

My wife bought me a 'present' last friday. 76 sq.m of oak wood flooring. Have to replace the old parquet flooring before I am allowed to continue with the RS1.🥴

George

[GrandpaPhil]

Very nice!