hamilton Posted September 7, 2013 #1 Posted September 7, 2013 I'm not sure this is the right term for it - and I don't recommend taking it literally - but I'm wondering if anyone could share an effective technique for rigging two blocks together - as in a larger and smaller block stropped or seized together at a yard arm for the sheets/lifts or (in my case) on the bowsprit for the jib stay (the larger) and the jib downhaul (the smaller)... Anyway, any and all advice is appreciated! Sorry for so many questions today! hamilton current builds: Corel HMS Bellona (1780); Admiralty models Echo cross-section (semi-scratch) previous builds: MS Phantom (scuttled, 2017); MS Sultana (1767); Corel Brittany Sloop (scuttled, 2022); MS Kate Cory; MS Armed Virginia Sloop (in need of a refit); Corel Flattie; Mamoli Gretel; Amati Bluenose (1921) (scuttled, 2023); AL San Francisco (destroyed by land krakens [i.e., cats]); Corel Toulonnaise (1823); MS Glad Tidings (1937) (in need of a refit); HMS Blandford (1719) from Corel HMS Greyhound; Fair Rosamund (1832) from OcCre Dos Amigos (missing in action); Amati Hannah (ship in a bottle); Mamoli America (1851); Bluenose fishing schooner (1921) (scratch); Off-Centre Sailing Skiff (scratch) under the bench: MS Emma C Barry; MS USS Constitution; MS Flying Fish; Corel Berlin; a wood supplier Colonial Schooner Hannah; Victory Models H.M.S. Fly; CAF Models HMS Granado; MS USS Confederacy
Thanasis Posted September 7, 2013 #2 Posted September 7, 2013 Hi Hamilton. In my below suggestion (this is what I do…) you will need at least one false (zip) seizing. You seize one block at the end of a thread (a), you make a cow hitch knot (d), through which you pass the bowsprit, you make a loop and adjust the false seizing (b.) and the second block. By pulling the free end of the thread (c.) you bring together the two blocks while you fasten them on the bowsprit. You finish with a drop of glue at the false seizing. Thanks src, hamilton and maso 3 https://www.naftotopos.gr/index.php/el/ There are no bad or good model makers. There are only less or more experienced. In gallery Tsernikoperama - Trechandiri Brachera - Bombarda Sabatiera -Tserniki vessel rigged as Penna - NE Aegean Sea Tserniki -Tserniki of Mykonos Island -Tserniki of Mytilene Island -Trechandiri-schooner rigging
hamilton Posted September 7, 2013 Author #3 Posted September 7, 2013 Thanks a lot Thanasis!! A very clear and precise description with a great illustration - very much appreciated!! hamilton current builds: Corel HMS Bellona (1780); Admiralty models Echo cross-section (semi-scratch) previous builds: MS Phantom (scuttled, 2017); MS Sultana (1767); Corel Brittany Sloop (scuttled, 2022); MS Kate Cory; MS Armed Virginia Sloop (in need of a refit); Corel Flattie; Mamoli Gretel; Amati Bluenose (1921) (scuttled, 2023); AL San Francisco (destroyed by land krakens [i.e., cats]); Corel Toulonnaise (1823); MS Glad Tidings (1937) (in need of a refit); HMS Blandford (1719) from Corel HMS Greyhound; Fair Rosamund (1832) from OcCre Dos Amigos (missing in action); Amati Hannah (ship in a bottle); Mamoli America (1851); Bluenose fishing schooner (1921) (scratch); Off-Centre Sailing Skiff (scratch) under the bench: MS Emma C Barry; MS USS Constitution; MS Flying Fish; Corel Berlin; a wood supplier Colonial Schooner Hannah; Victory Models H.M.S. Fly; CAF Models HMS Granado; MS USS Confederacy
JerseyCity Frankie Posted September 8, 2013 #4 Posted September 8, 2013 My two cents: I’m not familiar with what ship your working on but I can point out the nature of a downhaul on a staysail, a line running from the head of the staysail down along the stay back to the bowsprit or jiboom, used to pull the sail down to the spar in order to strike it. The canvas of the sail itself necessitates the block in question to be on one side or the other of the centerline of the spar, since the line would have to run down one side or the other of the sail, along the luff. So your downhaul block should be near to but not directly aft of wherever the stay terminates on the spar. If the downhaul block was on the centerline of the spar and/or immediately aft of the block for the stay, the canvas of the sail, as it was being struck, would quickly smother the block. folds of canvas would get in the way while the downhaul was being used, and the downhaul would chafe away at the sail. I would recommend locating your downhaul block at about a 3:30 or 7:45 position in relation to wherever your stay leads to in the headrig, or at any rate whichever point is under the tack of the sail as it is struck. hamilton 1 Quote Niagara USS Constitution
hamilton Posted September 8, 2013 Author #5 Posted September 8, 2013 Thanks Frankie - I'll have to revisit the rigging plan to see if there's anything amiss with what I've already done - but this makes sense. Thanks again hamilton current builds: Corel HMS Bellona (1780); Admiralty models Echo cross-section (semi-scratch) previous builds: MS Phantom (scuttled, 2017); MS Sultana (1767); Corel Brittany Sloop (scuttled, 2022); MS Kate Cory; MS Armed Virginia Sloop (in need of a refit); Corel Flattie; Mamoli Gretel; Amati Bluenose (1921) (scuttled, 2023); AL San Francisco (destroyed by land krakens [i.e., cats]); Corel Toulonnaise (1823); MS Glad Tidings (1937) (in need of a refit); HMS Blandford (1719) from Corel HMS Greyhound; Fair Rosamund (1832) from OcCre Dos Amigos (missing in action); Amati Hannah (ship in a bottle); Mamoli America (1851); Bluenose fishing schooner (1921) (scratch); Off-Centre Sailing Skiff (scratch) under the bench: MS Emma C Barry; MS USS Constitution; MS Flying Fish; Corel Berlin; a wood supplier Colonial Schooner Hannah; Victory Models H.M.S. Fly; CAF Models HMS Granado; MS USS Confederacy
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