Jump to content

hamilton

Members
  • Content Count

    1,434
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About hamilton

  • Birthday 08/21/1971

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Canada

Recent Profile Visitors

2,165 profile views
  1. Thanks for the clarification Druxey - these distinctions are good to know! I'm thinking of English vessels of the early 18th century (1719-1745). Thanks again hamilton
  2. This question has probably been posed and answered elsewhere, but after a few searches I came up dry, so I'll ask here - would hatches & gratings have been rounded down to match the camber of the relevant decks? Thanks in advance for any guidance here! hamilton
  3. Great work on the Bellona Harlequin - despite what you've said about "errors" - I think that the overall feel of the model allows these to fade into the background and (as you suggest) define the personality of your build. Glad you stuck with it! Question - is that your deck in the background of the first shot of the finished model? I used to skate when I was younger, but now have trouble doing basic things on my kid's board. Fortunately he hasn't taken to it much yet so I can still appear to be a useful teacher.... hamilton
  4. So sorry to hear about Dan's passing. His were among the logs that I combed through in detail (particularly HMS Vulture) over my years here on MSW and I received some valuable assistance from him on a couple of occasions. He was an embodiment of this forum's spirit of generosity in passing down knowledge and keeping this hobby alive for future generations. Thank you Dan! And rest in peace. hamilton
  5. Great work Harlequin - quick question - how did you get the snaking done without distorting the forestay and preventer stay? I tried snaking on the Blandford but removed it because I couldn't figure out how to add it without it pulling up on the stays and spoiling their run..... hamilton
  6. Awesome work Harlequin! Victory, Greyhound and Bellona look great together! hamilton
  7. Very interesting Gregory: I built the old Mamoli version of this kit years ago, and I can see that the Dusek version has made some significant changes - most of which (especially the laser carved wood parts) seem to be an improvement. A fun little ship to build for sure and I look forward to following you the second time around! hamilton
  8. Amazing work on the anchors, Ron! I don't think I would have gone past thinking about it and then ordering something "good enough" from somewhere. It's this level of dedication to your build that makes this one a favourite! hamilton
  9. Great work OC - I just looked through your log with my young son, with whom I've been watching these movies - he loved it and I did too! Congrats! hamilton
  10. I have been looking for some help on coppering. First, I have no idea what a gore line is. Where can I go to find some instruction?

    1. hamilton

      hamilton

      A gore line is a line of copper plates that runs more or less parallel to the sheer line at the top of the coppered section of the hull - that is, where the coppering meets the bare wood. That's how I understand it in any case

      hamilton

    2. ASeeling

      ASeeling

      Thank you. I am a bit confused about where most people start their coppering. It seems starting at the waterline would be the obvious method. I started by covering the keel and have stopped and am waiting to find if the waterline-down method is better. Any comments?

    3. hamilton

      hamilton

      Actually the coppering should start on the side faces of the keel. After these are covered, the plates can be laid on the keel bottom - the sides of the plates overlapping above the plates on the keel sides. Then the coppering proceeds upwards towards the waterline from the bottom of the hull. If you have the location of the waterline marked, you'll notice that as you copper the hull upwards towards the waterline, that the run of the plates will start to curve upwards at the bow and the stern (much like the planking strakes do). When the plates start hitting the waterline, you need to trim them and then add plates running along the waterline - this is the "gore line". Hope this helps

      hamilton

  11. I think it's already catching on! I don't doubt that we're all going to get to that place at one time or another during this insane time! hamilton
  12. Wow - nice shot here Harlequin! I'm itching to get back to building - especially as the COVID situation continues....unfortunately, I have a mountain of work to get through before I can get back to the "bench" (i.e., dining room table)....hope you're all well over there! hamilton

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
×
×
  • Create New...