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hamilton

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About hamilton

  • Birthday 08/21/1971

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  1. Tack some planking strips across the bulkheads to see how they want to run - look to see if the strip is either bowing out or leaving a gap to the bulkhead. I usually run a test strip across 4-5 bulkheads and then move fore and aft and from the rails to the keel in this way to identify where things need to be sanded down or built up. Don't worry about the forward most 3 frames for now - you'll be fairing them for planking later so for now you just want to make sure you have a reasonably fair and smooth framework for the planking. The best way to ensure this is by "rack of eye", and it's hard from a photo or two to get a 100% sure assessment of the situation. However, when I look at how the bottoms of the bulkheads line up in the photo above they look ok to me. The current distance between the bulkhead bottoms and the bearding line is probably ok, because it will get filled up by the roughly 2mm of planking that goes over the bulkheads. Do some testing with a planking strip, take your time and try to get things as fair as possible. This hobby is a matter of fractions of inches and millimetres, so it can be quite exacting - particularly at this stage, where getting all the parts correct relative to one another is of crucial importance. I think your skeleton is shaping up well though, by the looks of it. hamilton
  2. Yes - OC has achieved a great result here - if you can get yours looking like this, you'll be ready to move on. You don't have to build them up to the keel. Just to fit along the bearding line - here is an MSW thread that talks about the bearding and rabbet lines - the ships uses as e.g.'s aren't exactly like Greyhound but you will get the principle and general idea from this. hamilton
  3. Don't cut the keel!!!! Shim the bulkheads instead - it is easier to take wood off that you've added than to add back wood you've removed, so it is much safer to correct the structural issue you're facing by shimming up the bulkhead edges. When I look at your photos, here's what I see: 1. the mid-ships bulkheads look good - they seem to finish touching the top of the bearding line and they look reasonably even. 2. Bulkheads 9/10, which you've already modified, now also look good to me - they imply a nice gentle curve for the run aft of the planking 3. The last bulkhead forward of the transom looks like it needs trimming up - you'll see that the bottom intersects the bearding line, which it should not do - imagine a curve along the bottom of the bulkheads up to the aft edge of the slot for the transom bulkhead - you need to adjust your bulkheads to fit along that line. 4. The 4th bulkhead from the forwardmost one seems to rise too soon - and the 3rd one back is too high for sure and will need to be shimmed like B/H 9/10. There is also a gentle curving of the bearding line up the stem - b/h 1 & 2 in your photo look good, but 3 is way too high to allow for that nice curve you should see at the bows. Finally - a word of encouragement. This is by far the most difficult and frustrating part of this build. It took me a long time to get through it and this was my 12th wooden ship kit, so I had some experience. Do not give up no matter how frustrating it may get. And do not hold yourself to results that the kit itself may make it really difficult to achieve. hamilton
  4. Sorry if I'm chiming in late - the bottoms of the bulkhead edges should all line up with the rough bearding line I can see running along the length of the centre keel close to the bottom. This line should start gently curving up at around bulkhead 10 and then make a sharper curve upwards towards the back edge of that last slot on the centre keel where the transom bulkhead goes - this is called the "bearding line" - I'm not sure and can't remember if it's shown anywhere on the Corel plans, but take a look at see....identifying and transferring that line to the centre keel on both sides will help with the shimming up of those faulty bulkheads. Nice to see the progress on this build!! hamilton
  5. I found a lot of help and support for my Greyhound/Blandford build and I am forever grateful to the MSW pros who lent their time and expertise there - couldn't have done it otherwise - I know you'll find the same as you go through - just don't be shy to ask!! hamilton
  6. Happy to act as a support for this build - as we've chatted about already, it's a tricky one, but it can make a very nice model with a bit of extra effort - and lot of extra patience! Post pics of any issues you encounter - my build was greatly assisted by @harlequin who also has a nice build of this kit, and @oldcollingwood, who has built this one as well. Try not to judge Corel too badly based on this kit! I've built a few Corel models and with the exception of this one they have all been of very good quality. And with this one, once you're past the framework things go smoothly - at least til it comes to the masting and rigging, which are woefully undersupported by the plans and instructions provided with the kit..... hamilton
  7. Historical accuracy in this case might also be a creature of the restoration of the St Roch for display in the VMM - don't know much about the history of the restoration or how much photo documentation of the original vessel exists that might highlight this feature. From an architectural perspective, I can't see the overlap of the rubbing strakes and portholes making a lot of sense....at the same time, I've worked with enough contractors to know that sense often gets sacrificed for convenience in the real world as in the world of modelling - though usually with much greater consequences. In a situation like this I would always choose aesthetic effects over accuracy of representation - it bugs me to look at the photos of St Roch and see this feature - I imagine some poor person trying to rout out the back sides of the rubbing strakes to fit snugly around the portholes and cursing whoever put them in that position in the first place. And then I imagine someone working at scale trying to do the same thing...sheesh! It's one thing to cut wales or bulwarks planking around gunports, and quite another to try to achieve this kind of effect. But that's just me! hamilton
  8. This looks like a really nicely detailed kit! Been watching a few of the Titanic logs and getting tempted....I'll follow here with interest. I notice from your user ID that you're in SASK, but the background of your photos suggest some BC roots! My mother-in-law lives in Regina and if she saw your BC Lions memorabilia she would probably be on your lawn wearing a watermelon on her head and waving a pitchfork. How do Lions fans fare in the middle of all that Rider pride? hamilton
  9. I think it looks good so far - curious how you'll approach the stern framing - from my son's collection, I know there are pieces that feature compound arches that might work for this purpose - interesting build to be sure! hamilton
  10. My 10-year old loves this! As do I - seems to me that there is a serious challenge in knocking a lego period ship together - will you supply build instructions for those of us who might want to follow in your footsteps? I know that's a tall order so please don't take me seriously (though I am a little bit serious)....Lego released a Titanic recently that apart from being as costly as a high end wooden ship kit also looks very cool - would love to see someone document a build of that.... hamilton
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