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    Captain Chaos

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  1. Iโ€™ll pull up a chair for this. Sam
  2. Mark, We are using our CNC routers more and more at work for cutting parts and speeding production. Many times we are make frames similar in method to what we do here with false keels and bulkheads. Something I have found benificial is cutting a slight taper to the alignment tabs between sections of what would be the the false keel here. It doesnt take much a few degrees, less at this scale. I have also gone as far as making the pattern different between for instance join AB and BC. It makes it harder to get parts mixed up - not that I have ever done something like that. Nope! Nor Sir, not me! Just a thought. Sam
  3. Jo, In addition to what the others said I think if I was doing this I would lay part 16 on the plans and secure it in some way; push pins, tape something to keep it from moving about. The I would carefully lay your keel on top of that and carefully line it up to the plans and secure it with pins, tape etc. Then with your sharpest hobby blade scalpel or razor knife trace the overlap. That will give you exactly what you need to remove. That will give you a cut line. From there carefully trim away the excess and finish with a file right to the line. You may find you have to add material down at the bottom also. Best of luck. Sam
  4. And she is off buying tools. She is hooked. Next it will be the Darkside of scratch building. Carl, I was making a pun off of your spirits pun by calling you a very "Punny" as apposed to "Funny" person. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pun Alas, my pun fell flat on its face due to language. Please dont Aikido-chop me. ๐Ÿ˜ Sorry to hijack your log Jo, back to you. Sam
  5. Oh......Popeye the Punster Strikes Again.๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚ Nice work J. the repair and everything look great. Mark, those hangers are still there, every time we drive down to San Diego (a 4+ hour drive each way these days) I think about that story of the F4 pilots. Side note, apparently it is now a court marshal offense to fly under the Golden Gate Bridge. Sam
  6. Captain!! So good to see you makin' dust again. Well done. And the tattoos on the wrists, very smart of you. But, what happens when you look in the mirror, then your left is your right and your right is your left! Sam
  7. Jo, Here in the States you can get rubbing alcohol (isopropyl) at drug stores. Not sure what they are called in your part of the world wherever that may be. Its where we get proscriptions filled and first aid items here. It does work with the titebond 1 and 2, not so sure about Titebond 3 though. Oh Carl.... you are SUCH a puny man!!!๐Ÿ˜… Sam
  8. Better to know know that then later Mark. Good to know my ignorance comes in handy sometimes.๐Ÿ˜… Sam
  9. Jo, Ulises is so right. There is a reason I subtitled my build โ€œLessons in Adapt Improvise and Overcome.โ€ Its what I have been doing since day one. Sam
  10. I wondered if it was the Stern Post Mark. I see you cut the section for the pintles/gudgeons as a separate part and I assume that is how the French did it. Any idea why? It appears weaker than cutting from a single plank? I highlighted the two parts I am referring to below: Sam
  11. That looks like fun Mark. I see what appears to be a stem piece, a rudder assembly and something else. What is the "something else" part? Sam
  12. Yea, square head screws are much better if you can find them. Sam
  13. Jo, this chart will help you determine the correct pilot drill for the screw you are using. I am assuming you are using โ€œjobberโ€ type bits; regular every day drill bits from the hardware store not special tapered bits. Use the column that says straight bit. You can buy tapered bits later. https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/wood-screws/Wood-Screw-Pilot-Hole-Size.aspx another way to choose a bit and I what I have done in the field is to eyeball the drill bit to the minor dimension of the screw threads. I am st work right now (shhhh donโ€™t tell anybody) Iโ€™ll try to post you a picture of what I mean when I get home. And what the others said about soap/candle wax to lubricate you threads. Sam
  14. Vossie, those look great to my eye! Kudos to you for wanting to do things "right." Something I have been trying to tell myself as I learn this hobby is to think of how far away scale-wise we are working on is. From 64 feet away I think those are quite convincing Under the circumstances you've done quite well and persevered, next build will be even better. Just my two cents for whatever that's worth. Sam

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