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  1. Better to know know that then later Mark. Good to know my ignorance comes in handy sometimes.😅 Sam
  2. Jo, Ulises is so right. There is a reason I subtitled my build “Lessons in Adapt Improvise and Overcome.” Its what I have been doing since day one. Sam
  3. I wondered if it was the Stern Post Mark. I see you cut the section for the pintles/gudgeons as a separate part and I assume that is how the French did it. Any idea why? It appears weaker than cutting from a single plank? I highlighted the two parts I am referring to below: Sam
  4. That looks like fun Mark. I see what appears to be a stem piece, a rudder assembly and something else. What is the "something else" part? Sam
  5. Yea, square head screws are much better if you can find them. Sam
  6. Jo, this chart will help you determine the correct pilot drill for the screw you are using. I am assuming you are using “jobber” type bits; regular every day drill bits from the hardware store not special tapered bits. Use the column that says straight bit. You can buy tapered bits later. https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/wood-screws/Wood-Screw-Pilot-Hole-Size.aspx another way to choose a bit and I what I have done in the field is to eyeball the drill bit to the minor dimension of the screw threads. I am st work right now (shhhh don’t tell anybody) I’ll try to post you a picture of what I mean when I get home. And what the others said about soap/candle wax to lubricate you threads. Sam
  7. Vossie, those look great to my eye! Kudos to you for wanting to do things "right." Something I have been trying to tell myself as I learn this hobby is to think of how far away scale-wise we are working on is. From 64 feet away I think those are quite convincing Under the circumstances you've done quite well and persevered, next build will be even better. Just my two cents for whatever that's worth. Sam
  8. Looking good Jo. you want to make sure your keel is nice and straight. sight down it lengthwise and make sure ther isnt a bend in the two ends you just glued on. If they are not nice and flat you will find the planking process to be "interesting" Sam
  9. Nice start Jo! It doesn’t look like you have screwed the brackets to you keel, raising it up a bit shouldn’t be a problem. If you do screw your keel to the brackets make sure you have a plan to remove it before you finish planking. Sam
  10. I have been following this discussion with interest, silently, since I have nothing to add. I am always pleasantly surprised when a simple question turns into a completely different discussion, I never fail to learn something from all of you. Since the sails, or non-sails, has garnered so much discussion here is a link to where I found the image above, there is a hi-res version available for download if that helps. https://www.history.navy.mil/our-collections/photography/numerical-list-of-images/nhhc-series/nh-series/NH-54000/NH-54387.html Thanks Sam
  11. Wefalck, Thanks for the input. The book was only $15 US and with my level of knowledge (read nonexistent) I am sure I will get something out of it. Sam
  12. Russ, GRSJAX, thank you. Bridlecombe ordered. it will be in on Wednesday. Sam
  13. Thanks Russ. Lees doesnt mention anything about a Fore Gaff that I have found yet. Would it be safe to follow the same proportions as for the Driver Boom/Gaff? The drive Gaff is 5/8 of the driver boom which is the same length as the Fore Top Yard. So following that I would make the Foresail Gaff 5/8 of the Fore Top Yard? Sam
  14. So Jo, you have had a couple of hours now to do some work, do you have pictures of a completed boat yet? Sam

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