Bulwarks

[sgrez]

Hi, I was wondering if anyone had any ideas, tips or tricks for attaching the bulwarks. Since I'm new to this and my first build, I'm not sure because of the bend, I don't want to break the pieces. I have the one dry clamped as seen in the photo. The directions don't say other than to attach them on both sides. Also what kind of glue does everyone use? I've been using gorilla wood glue that dries clear and just starbond super glue which hasn't been too pleasant as I kinda get it all over my fingers lol.

[James H]

I use Titebond. I'd also suggest removing that and trying to manipulate the front into a curve first. As it's thick ply, I'm out of suggestions. I don't know if soaking would ruin the part. I'm be inclined to make that part from two thinner laminations which will be easier to bend. 

[sgrez]

That would be a good idea but I had to put veneer on the bulwark that goes on the inside and the actual bulwark piece is one solid board as this is an OcCre kit.

[Chuck Seiler]

You don't indicate whether the bulwark will be planked or not.  I would be inclined to NOT use the bulwark provided but instead use 1/16" basswood (using the old bulwarks as templates) then plank over it, inside and out.  This would reinforce the basswood in the same manner as 2 ply lamination as suggested by James.  If the kit does not supply planking material, 1/32" basswood strips (if planking interior and exterior) or 1/16" BW strips will work.  That should be available from hobby shops like Michaels.  

 

Another alternative is Alaskan Yellow Cedar.  It is soft like basswood but I find it much better as a planking wood.  Hobby Mill EU (Europe) and Modelers Sawmill (US) bother carry AYC.  Both are MSW sponsors.

Edited August 9 by Chuck Seiler
Alaskan Yellow Cedar info added.

[sgrez]

Yes it will be planked. It's planked on one side already that's on the inside,once glued in place the other will be planked.

[sgrez]

In the meantime while looking at this I was trying to dry fit to wrap it to the bow and of course, it broke right at the bend. So I've glue it and I'll wait to see how it looks.

[SiriusVoyager]

I find it unfortunate that the instructions had you plank one side before installing as it will make it harder to bend properly.  In my limited experience with Occre plywood (one kit), a bit of soaking didn't hurt too much.  I would then take a clothes iron to heat the wood up, then clamp or rubber band it into place and allow it to cool in that shape.  There may be a bit of delamination that occurs, but nothing that a bit of glue can't fix.  There may be a better method, but this worked for me.

 

As far as glue, I will use Tightbond when I am gluing areas that will be completely covered later, Elmer's glue all for most other gluing (both of which are referred to as PVA) and superglue (CA) only when I need something to hold right now.

[Wawona59]

I must agree with the suggestion above to substitute the plywood with a softwood like basswood or Alaskan Yellow Cedar or something similar.  Use the plywood as a template and use strip of basswood or AYC which is the same width and thickness as the plywood bullworks.

 

Another technique not mentioned yet is kerf bending.  Kerf bending involves a series of shallow saw cuts to make the wood more flexible at the area of the curve.  If you make the kerf cuts on the outside of the bullworks any final hull planking will cover them up.  Based on your photograph, you should not need too many kerf cuts (only at the point of the curve). Be careful not to cut all the way through the wood.  This should also work on the plywood bullworks also.  I usually replace plywood with solid material so I don't have any personal experience kerf bending plywood.  The key is to practice on some scrap of the same material.

 

Here's a link to a diagram of what I'm talking about.

 

Wood Bending by Kerfing - Lost Art Press

 

 Happy modeling!!

 

 

Edited Friday at 05:53 PM by Wawona59
fix link to diagram