Wawona59

Yes, I'm an NRG member and proud of it! MSW and the NRG membership is some of the best $$ I've spent in this hobby; believe me, I've spent a plenty. I've met so many friendly and knowledgeable people on MSW and I love the interaction with modelers all over the world and the encouragement I've received even when I've stepped back from a project to regroup. When my NRG renewal comes up this August I'll be there to sign up again. As coyote_6 said "I love this corner of the internet"

Welcome Aboard to Model Ship World Wayne. Your African Queen looks like an interesting project and should look great with the figures posted by Capt. Kelso. I've never seen the movie "African Queen" or read the book. I probably need to put this on my future read/movie list.

At first glance I thought this kit was great as it is designed to be built as an admiralty style model, kind of like the Model Shipways Confederacy. Upon closer examination, I've changed my first impression of this kit. This kit is marketed to an advanced ship modeler but I think it falls short. An advanced modeler would not make but jointed carlings for the exposed gun deck framing. They also would not be happy with the inaccurate fittings and oversized belaying pins. The stern galleries would probably be replaced, etc. etc. Upon completion, this would result in a very nice "decorator model" that the builder could be proud of. The market that might be interested in this kit would be a modeler with few kits under their belt who is newly retired and looking for a challenge in their retirement years. If I were going to plunk down $1,700.00 for a ship model (unlikely) there are other models on the market more deserving of my $$. Here's a few: Syren Winchelsea, Bluejacket Wyoming, Vanguard Indefatigable. This model does not appeal to me. I'm sure Occre will sell a few though.

Hi Capt Kelso. Beautiful start on your Kate Cory project. I'll be following along if you don't mind. I don't think you can go wrong with the plans by A.R Ronnberg Jr. Everything I've seen of his is first rate. Tom Lauria's web site and YouTube channel is also a great resource for your Kate Cory project. When you get to that point, you might also want to check out his video on scale effect. All of his videos are well worth the time. I wish you the best on your project.

Hi amateurmodelbuilder that looks like a good first project. Look at some of the build logs on MSW for solid hull model ships. There are many to choose from but off the top of my head a recommend Clipper Ship Red Jacket by John Ruy. His build log will give you a good idea of what is involved in building a solid hull kit. When you begin building your model, start a build log and include some photographs of your progress. You don't have to write a novel; just enough to describe what you are doing. This is also a good time to ask questions. You will ALWAYS get a response with positive comments and suggestions. Now, for your question about painting. In my opinion, surface preparation is the key to a good final painted finish. Also, don't feel like you have to paint he whole model after you've built it. You will get better results if you paint sub-assemblies before you install them on the model. For example: 1. paint the cabins, hatches and deck furniture before installing them on the deck. 2. Paint the bulwarks and waterways before planking the deck, etc. Surface preparation: Surface preparation is the key to a good final finish. Take your time. Sand the hull down to 220 grit. Some modelers may even go further to 280 or 320 grit. Shellac is a good sealer. It comes in spray cans, premixed brush on and flakes that you can make your own. I've even used spray can automotive primer with good results. I've found the primer fills in tiny scratches or small imperfections. If needed, (if your sanding exposed bare wood) add another light mist coat of primer. You can use #0000 steel wool for this step. As mentioned earlier by Dr. PR, steel wool can leave steel particles. You can also use sanding pads "Scotch Brite" that you can find in the paint/finishing department of any well stocked hardware store. Painting: Your model can be painted by either spray painting or brush painting. I prefer brush painting with acrylic paints. That's just my choice. Spray painting: Unless you already have the equipment, don't go out and purchase an airbrush and compressor at this stage. You don't need it. Spray painting can be accomplished with "rattle can" paint that you can get at the hardware store or hobby shop. Try to use "rattle can" paint formulated specifically for modeling. Good model paint brands are Tamiya, and Mr. Color. These are lacquer based, dry quickly and are less likely to run. However, the fumes are bothersome, especially to other family members in the house. You can also use hardware store spray paints like Krylon or Rustoleum. Be careful, these are thicker and tend to build up faster which can cause runs.. Brush painting: This is my preferred method using acrylic paints. The downside is that it takes longer with more care. The upside is that I can paint my models in the house without the stink or noisy compressor. The key to a good brushed finish is high quality paint and high quality brushes. I prefer Tamiya and Mission Models acrylic bottled paints. I find the pigment for these is ground finer than other brands. On occasion, I've also used artist's acrylics in a tube, such as Windsor & Newton. I thin them with 91% isopropyl alcohol in a small plastic condiment container with a plastic snap on lid. (like the ones you can get at your local drive-thru). The mixed paint is usable for several days so you don't have to do all of the painting in one session if you mixed a custom color. For brushes, stay away from the bargain brushes from who knows where. You will most likely be disappointed and the bristles occasionally fall out and stick in your paint job. Get the best quality brushes you can afford. I prefer natural hair brushes although there are some synthetic bristle brushes that are reasonably good as well. With proper care, natural hair brushes can last for years. For starters, you can get by with a1/2" or 1/4" flat brush for large areas and a flat 1/8" brush for smaller areas. You will also need a couple of small round brushes for detail painting. I apologize for this long response. I didn't intend to make this a treatise and kind of got carried away. Hopefully, there are some tidbits here that you can use. Oh, and by the way, WELCOME TO MODEL SHIP WORLD.

Welcome to Model Ship World Nic. What a beautiful model ship. It would be a shame not to keep this model in the family and hand it down to future generations. My suggestion is to finish it as a hull model sans full masts, and rigging (although that would be impressive). This would be a HUGE undertaking for someone with no ship modeling experience but may be done with persistence. Based on my experience here on MSW I'm sure there may be some ship modelers in the UK who might be willing to finish it for you or guide you to finishing it yourself. You should be able to finish the work since you have previous woodworking experience. Finishing it yourself as your skills develop will add to the legacy of this model as it is passed down within your family. I wish you al the best with this amazing project. Welcome Aboard!

Bonjour, Welcome to Model Ship World. Many of us have similar stories. We built models when we were young and then college, careers, and family interceded (a good thing). Many of us are retired, or soon to be, and are emerging from "The Dark Side" (limited or no modeling". BTW, don't worry about your English. Your English is much better than my French. Au revoir! Welcome Aboard!

Regardless of the "undocumented features" that sometimes arise, I'm thankful to have access the content here on MSW. " Happy Modeling All"

Jaeger - Thank you so much for this tip. This looks like a much better way to go compared to the way I've been doing it by hand. It's probably more precise too. I'll definitely check this out. Price doesn't seem to be too outrageous compared to the use I will get from using it.

Well said kgstakes! Hurray for using (quality) hand tools! About 99% of my modeling work is done with hand tools only. My "go-to" hand tools include a Lie Neilson block plane, a L.S. Starrett 3" adjustable square and 6" steel rule. I also use the Ultimatiion slicer, sander and repeater. I can vouch for their quality. I wouldn't be surprised if some of the power tool I rarely use will be going bye-bye. Wooden ship and aircraft modeling is mental therapy for me. I'm recently retired and frequently give my models away to a happy kid. Nothing de-stresses me more than kicking back with my friends J.S. Bach, A. Vivaldi and W.A. Mozart with my favorite beverage making wood shavings. I'm still trying to figure out how to make wood strips and inlay using just hand tools. I'm sure I'll figure it out at some point. I agree with you kgstakes; "Nothing beats doing things by hand and slowing down.

WOW! I've never seen any ship model like this before. This is absolutely fantastic! I think this is a candidate for framing for the modeling room. I hope you have recovered or are recovering from your heart surgery. When and if I ever get a chance to build my dream model of the lumber schooner Wawona I'd like to do a photoshop similar to my profile icon. Well done!

Just discovered your build log today. Your log is like a good novel, I just couldn't put it down. Incredible work on the deck and gilding!

Hello Monique, Welcome to Model Ship World. This is a GREAT forum for ship modelers. The Lowell Grand Banks Dory from Model Shipways is a great first project. Don't rush and don't get discouraged by any mistakes you may make. Fix any mistakes to the best of your ability and tell yourself "Well, now I know one way not to do that step." Feel free to ask questions as you go. There will always be someone on the forum willing to help. When I first came across your post I noticed a reference to HMS Surprise. When I then looked at your photo avatar, I thought to myself "Wow! That modeler looks just like Stephen Maturin!" LOL Welcome Aboard.

I realize I'm probably late but I would like to put another plug for the C.A. Thayer / Wawona in 1/8" scale. You could develop 1 kit that gives the modeler 2 options. I'm not aware of anything like this on the market. Wawona Wawona Wawona CA Thayer CA Thayer CA Thayer Please give this serious consideration.

Hello Clipperfan, Thank you for your post and your kind words. I've had multiple blood tests and have more to come. I'm starting to feel better but my Dr. is changing my meds to find the right balance. (I'm looking for the right balance as well so I can walk easier. LOL) I'll ask my doctor about Lime Disease but there hasn't been any mention of it based on my past blood tests. I've been following MSW as a lurker and am looking forward to getting back to modeling. I really enjoyed our correspondence on the Flying Fish build logs and hope to do so again. Talk to you soon.

Hi Paul, Welcome to Model Ship World. This is a wonderful and supportive site. MSW members are very willing to help an answer any questions. I'm sorry to hear about your health issues. I find ship modeling to be a welcome respite from my daily problems and issues. I'm looking forward to seeing photos of your progress with your Lady Helson project. Welcome Aboard to MSW!

Welcome to Model Ship World Phez. There are hundreds of accomplished modelers on this site. All of the members I've met through this site are willing to freely offer advice and answer questions. Check out the kit build logs. You might be able to find a log for the Midwest Skiff you are working on. Welcome Aboard!

Found a LCT measure from the Pacific Theatre in 1944

Hi Bill, a local modeling friend here in Seattle is a naval historian who has done considerable research on USN measures in WW2. PM me with the information you have on your dad's LCT such as theatre, dates and ship number if you have it. I will contact me friend and see if he has any information that can help you. He's the one who convinced me to paint my Arizona model blue for a Pearl Harbor display we did a few years ago. The Arizona may even have been partially painted in the Measure 5 scheme on 12-7-41. I hope I can help you with your research.

Welcome aboard to MSW! How do you like the Model Shipways Mayflower? I've been pretty pleased with Model Shipways Flying Fish that I've been picking away at. The Britania castings however, leave something to be desired though. Welcome aboard. I hope to see some pics of your Mayflower project at some point.

Welcome aboard to MSW! Congratulations on finishing your 1/700 Titanic. I built a 1/700 USS Arizona several years ago and found the PE parts quite fiddly to work with. I utterly failed with the PE railings so you're ahead of me on the PE. Your violin experience should pay you dividends in building a wooden ship model. The Vanguard Flirt would be a good choice. There should be some wonderful Flirt models on the MSW site.

Welcome to MSW Dave. Lots of good folks here who have a lot of experience and advice. Persevere onward to complete your first ship model. It's a real shot in the arm when you get that first one under your belt. Welcome aboard.

Plans for the C.A. Thayer and Wawona are readily available as part of the HAAMS project at the Smithsonian. Please offer a Thayer/Wawona kit in 1/8" or 3/16" scale. We would be most grateful.

I 100% agree with Chris' suggestion of the C.A. Thayer, the last of the many lumber schooners/cod fishers that plied the pacific northwest waters. With the same kit you could also offer the Wawona, a sister ship of the C.A. Thayer. There are not too many kits of vessels from the Pacific Northwest. I would drop every project I'm working on to build a Wawona. I met her as a wee lad in the mid 60's on the Seattle waterfront. Unfortunately, we lost her in 2009 and she's now an ugly wooden sculpture. Guess what my favorite ship is.