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Posted

Hi, I was wondering if anyone had any ideas, tips or tricks for attaching the bulwarks. Since I'm new to this and my first build, I'm not sure because of the bend, I don't want to break the pieces. I have the one dry clamped as seen in the photo. The directions don't say other than to attach them on both sides. Also what kind of glue does everyone use? I've been using gorilla wood glue that dries clear and just starbond super glue which hasn't been too pleasant as I kinda get it all over my fingers lol.

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Posted

I use Titebond. I'd also suggest removing that and trying to manipulate the front into a curve first. As it's thick ply, I'm out of suggestions. I don't know if soaking would ruin the part. I'm be inclined to make that part from two thinner laminations which will be easier to bend. 

On the bench: HMS Surprise - (Prototype) - Vanguard Models - 1:64

Future work: HMS Agamemnon - (Prototype) - Vanguard Models - 1:64
Ongoing: 
Tender Avos - Master Korabel - 1:72.
My other builds:  https://modelshipworld.com/topic/38761-a-place-to-post-your-long-signatures/

 

Posted (edited)

You don't indicate whether the bulwark will be planked or not.  I would be inclined to NOT use the bulwark provided but instead use 1/16" basswood (using the old bulwarks as templates) then plank over it, inside and out.  This would reinforce the basswood in the same manner as 2 ply lamination as suggested by James.  If the kit does not supply planking material, 1/32" basswood strips (if planking interior and exterior) or 1/16" BW strips will work.  That should be available from hobby shops like Michaels.  

 

Another alternative is Alaskan Yellow Cedar.  It is soft like basswood but I find it much better as a planking wood.  Hobby Mill EU (Europe) and Modelers Sawmill (US) bother carry AYC.  Both are MSW sponsors.

Edited by Chuck Seiler
Alaskan Yellow Cedar info added.

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, Pinas Cross Section
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch), John Smith Shallop

Posted

I find it unfortunate that the instructions had you plank one side before installing as it will make it harder to bend properly.  In my limited experience with Occre plywood (one kit), a bit of soaking didn't hurt too much.  I would then take a clothes iron to heat the wood up, then clamp or rubber band it into place and allow it to cool in that shape.  There may be a bit of delamination that occurs, but nothing that a bit of glue can't fix.  There may be a better method, but this worked for me.

 

As far as glue, I will use Tightbond when I am gluing areas that will be completely covered later, Elmer's glue all for most other gluing (both of which are referred to as PVA) and superglue (CA) only when I need something to hold right now.

  - Eric

Current buildSultan Arab Dhow

 

Finished:  Norwegian Sailing Pram, Lowell Grand Banks Dory, Muscongus bay lobster smackOcCre Palamos, San Francisco Cross Section

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