Loose Planks

[Rich Sloop]

I am working through my first build- a Vanguard Sherborne.  I have taken my time reworked a few problems and so far am please with progress and what Ive learned. After applying the first coat of paint some cracks appeared.  Not really cracks but some planks have loosened.  Not enough glue?  How to correct the two loose planks?

 

Edited Wednesday at 12:24 AM by Rich Sloop
Bad pic upload

[druxey]

Is this water-based paint? Wait until the moisture has completely evaporated and see if the planks sit down again. Then reglue from the inside. (I assume this is still accessible.) 

[palmerit]

Did you try using a super thin CA (super) glue? It can wick into narrow seams and you can push down with something other than your fingers. Not regular CA glue. Bob Smith is a recommended brand and they make super thin varieties, some of which are specifically designed to wick like that. ZAP also makes a thin CA glue. I never knew there was such thing as a super thin CA glue until I started building wooden ship models. I tend to avoid CA glue and prefer wood glue, but the super thin certainly has its uses (and CA glue or epoxy is needed to glue things other than wood). 

 

Depending on how wide the gap is, you can also dab a very thin piece of wire or a very thin pin into the thin CA glue - it'll wick to the metal - and use that to "inject" the CA glue into the gap. You'll certainly need to do some additional coats of paint after you make the repair. 

Edited Wednesday at 12:49 AM by palmerit

[palmerit]

6 minutes ago, druxey said:

Then reglue from the inside.

Didn't think of that and I can't remember the building steps. My bet is that the subfloor planking is in the way and will not permit gluing from the front, but I could be wrong.

[Y.T.]

Glue it with thin CA as suggested. You can press plank in with the fingers but through the plastic bag. If gaps are present fill them in with wood filler or the saw dust mixed with PVA. Grind smooth with scrapers and sand paper. Repaint.

Edited Wednesday at 01:13 AM by Y.T.

[Dr PR]

Unfortunately, cracks probably will reappear after time. Wood expands and contracts as humidity changes. I have two older (50+ years) hulls that were planked with wood glue between the planks and they have both developed cracks.

 

I started coating the inside of the planking with thin epoxy "paint" that was used to coat motor mounts in flying model airplanes. It prevented fuel from soaking into the wooden mounts. I have also used the thin epoxy that is used to coat counter tops. The epoxy soaks into the planks and bulkheads, and flows between the planks. It glues everything very solid! I have a single layer planked hull that is about 40 years old and it has no cracks.

[paul ron]

use a needle to feed titebond glue behind n between the planks essentially gluing them together. then clamp it up tight n all is good again.

 

 

Edited Wednesday at 01:14 PM by paul ron

[Rich Sloop]

12 hours ago, druxey said:

Is this water-based paint? Wait until the moisture has completely evaporated and see if the planks sit down again. Then reglue from the inside. (I assume this is still accessible.) 

Not sure how to access the inside.  Maybe I can use a needle to inject glue through the crack, let it set up and sand?

[Rich Sloop]

12 hours ago, palmerit said:

Did you try using a super thin CA (super) glue? It can wick into narrow seams and you can push down with something other than your fingers. Not regular CA glue. Bob Smith is a recommended brand and they make super thin varieties, some of which are specifically designed to wick like that. ZAP also makes a thin CA glue. I never knew there was such thing as a super thin CA glue until I started building wooden ship models. I tend to avoid CA glue and prefer wood glue, but the super thin certainly has its uses (and CA glue or epoxy is needed to glue things other than wood). 

 

Depending on how wide the gap is, you can also dab a very thin piece of wire or a very thin pin into the thin CA glue - it'll wick to the metal - and use that to "inject" the CA glue into the gap. You'll certainly need to do some additional coats of paint after you make the repair. 

I will look into a this CA.  I have only used the thick stuff to date.