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Y.T.

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  1. Hi dbar1, thanks for tip. I purchased it. This is good staff to have in any case.
  2. Hi Grant, thank you very much for alternative feedback. I am also still in doubt that copper tape can look more realistic than painting. Copper tape is still just an approximation of what real thing looked like.
  3. I see copper painting + green stuff did not impress anyone. Come on. Just say copper paint is ugly. Thanks for the feedback. Now I am inclined to lay copper film over hull's bottom. But... I do not have copper tape and have no idea where to get it from. Anyone knows? I need super thin one 4 mm wide. For double layering the hull's bottom I was still planning to lay it with these green wood short strips from the kit. Later having this layer ideally smothered with scrapers and cover it with copper plates (tape). But this is lots of work that can be possibly avoided! Why not to fake a second layer below waterline? (May be I just better having my mouth shut...). Above waterline my hull is kind of finished. Below waterline hull was about to be layered with short green wood strips imitating plates. Now as I decided to use copper tape cannot I just lay a few rounds of green strips below waterline then smoothing it off with scrapers and copper tape hull's bottom??? Do you think it will work?
  4. I still did not 100% decide if I will ultimately cover hull bottom with real copper film. However the copper painted version also looks not that bad. Besides it is much easier to make. Green verdigris look pretty convincing. What do you think?
  5. No. This idea would not work when one wants a perfect build. I purchased mica from here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/24-piece-LOT-2-x-4-Mica-Windows-Scrapbooking-SOME-Antique-Camp-Stoves-Crafts/153429375062
  6. This was an excellent advice from chris watton on how to do ratlines. As type of glue goes I suggest - never use Cyanoacrylate adhesive in scaled ship building for anything . Period.
  7. Showing here every stage of my build. May be I am showing too much before things are ready as this often gives wrong impression.
  8. So you insert a grey painted backing cards behind windows? This is instead of painting all "behind glass" room with grey?
  9. Issue is how much of electric power tools a scaled ship modeler really needs. Cutting a few ship frames could be done just with a hand scroll saw. It will take just a bit longer but probably more accurate. After all when job is done the power tool is going to collect dust for quite a several years till a modeler goes for building another masterpiece.
  10. Hi druxey. Thanks for reply. This is good suggestion. I may do this in conjunction with "muddying" the rear side of mica windows with something. One good friend suggested to have a polyurethane sprayed. Another way I think could be just spreading some PVA glue behind mica glazing, What do you think?
  11. Thanks mtaylor. This method is good if I have ready window frames. Issue is I do not have ready window frames. The frames will be build around mica sheet.
  12. This is my first successful use of my Proxxon contraption. I managed to make a nice 45 degree chamfer on the raw plywood rudder Mamoli part.
  13. I am working on the hull of HMS Victory from a kit. Victory has many stern quarters windows. I plan making semi transparent windows with mica glazing. Behind these windows there will be internals which are better not to be seen. What is normally done by modellers to prevent seeing unwanted stuff through windows?
  14. Could someone help me with an issue? Windows will be glazed so all unwanted stuff inside of stern quarters may be visible. What would you suggest doing about this?

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