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Y.T.

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    Toronto, Canada

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  1.    SpyGlass reacted to a post in a topic: I need help with window framing. HMS Victory 1:90 scale
  2.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: I need help with window framing. HMS Victory 1:90 scale
  3.    tasmanian reacted to a post in a topic: I need help with window framing. HMS Victory 1:90 scale
  4.    hexnut reacted to a post in a topic: I need help with window framing. HMS Victory 1:90 scale
  5. Y.T.
    Thanks for a tip Empathy.Could you please show here a sample of window you made using these materials?
  6. Y.T.
    Order from here in UK. Shipping is 5 times cheaper than from USA: https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000001.pl?page=search&SS=nails&PR=-1&TB=O&ACTION=Go!
  7.    thibaultron reacted to a post in a topic: Danish Oil Not Being Absorbed
  8.    Canute reacted to a post in a topic: Danish Oil Not Being Absorbed
  9. Y.T.
    Probably wood you have has uneven density so unable absorbing your substance evenly. In general wood is looking great on its own. I would just apply layer of acrylic lacquer over the wood. I would never use Danish oil. May be you still can sand off damaged surfaces and apply lacquer.
  10.    Wallace reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Victory by Y.T. - Mamoli - 1:90 scale
  11.    Y.T. reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Victory by Y.T. - Mamoli - 1:90 scale
  12.    Y.T. reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Victory by Y.T. - Mamoli - 1:90 scale
  13.    Tom E reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Victory by Y.T. - Mamoli - 1:90 scale
  14.    spider999 reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Victory by Y.T. - Mamoli - 1:90 scale
  15.    spider999 reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Victory by Y.T. - Mamoli - 1:90 scale
  16. Y.T.
    Here are more of baseboards. So all baseboards are now complete. All deck floor planking is complete. Nothing is lacquered or painted yet. After lacquering and painting all this is going to look much more attractive. Just bear with me. Now I am thinking how to make main top decorative rail on top of boards (sure no one will figure out what I am talking about). These are 1.5 mm x 5 mm walnut strips and should be bent in 5 mm wide plain. This is going to be difficult. Besides I plan rounding the outside side of this strip to resemble actual ship. I will show this in pictures what I am coming up with.
  17. Y.T.
    Mamoli drawings tell you that baseboard members at upper decks should be made of 2 mm x 2mm walnut strips they provide. Are you guys kidding? Why no one had ever stopped them since 1980 when these drawings were made? This would be totally disproportional in size to whole ship hull structure. I had to come up with much smaller section of a baseboard. I decided to split manually with X-acto knife 1 mm x 3mm profiles. After polishing the edges I was making them into something as 1 mm x 1.25 mm profiles. These ones I am starting gluing in as baseboards. See pics.
  18. Y.T.
    They are very valuable reference. Thank you very much!
  19. Y.T.
    spider999. These are all excellent pictures. Great close up details which I cannot find on internet. Is there a way I could get all 200 of them in highest resolution from you? Yes. You got it right. Working on the hull is my best part of the hobby. When I get to rigging I tend to put it aside justifying this stunt by starting to work on the hull of other ship. My AL San Francisco still has quite a few sails and most of rigging not installed. I am telling myself - I will get to it when Victory hull is finished. Ha-ha.
  20. Y.T.
    Some of your pics are uncommon and are worth saving. Thanks a lot.
  21. Y.T.
    I think it can be a good tip for as simple thing as laying deck planks. Current fashion is blackening the edges of planks to mimic calking around the real planks. I am following this trend though sometimes asking myself would a real ship look as this if looked at at the scale 1 to 90? Nevertheless I had lots of trouble blackening my 0.5 mm thick planks with a pencil. I had splits. I had breakages. Now I do it differently. I glue a first lane of a center piece deck planks. No edge blackening so far. After they are bonded and dry I circle all sides with pencil. I glue around new set of planks. I do not blacken them till they are bonded and dry. Then I circle them with a pencil again. And again and again and again....
  22. Y.T.
    Initially I also cut these rigging slots but later considered I did not like their size and plugged them in and covered them up with finish planking. I will cut new ones later on being more careful with their size and orientation.
  23. Y.T.
    My keele “nose” had that notch. I had it uniformly removed in order to install the curved plank all the way up. This way it looks better. Feel free asking anything about this build.
  24. Y.T.
    Hi, spider999, here are the measurements. Let me know if you need more details. Be careful with these dimensions as you have to squeeze into it as many planks as Mamoli specifies. I was off by about 1 plank at the end. This required adjustments with quantity and width of planks. Enjoy your work.
  25. Y.T.
    This explains how you do port frames in 1st planking. Thus does not explain how you did a finish layer with some offset off the first planking frames. This still looks CNC but you say was hand made. Maximum I can do with my scalpel is something as attached. Scale though is smaller 1:90.
  26.    Y.T. reacted to a post in a topic: De Zeven Provinciën 1665 by Dražen Carić - Scale 1: 45
  27.    Y.T. reacted to a post in a topic: Laser cutting questions
  28. Y.T.
    Hi Drazen, I am looking at ports you cut out. They look as they are CNC ( Computer Numerical Control ) made. How do you do that?
  29. Y.T.
    Hi Spider999, you build looks great. Good luck with your build. I also almost had run out of 1st layer planks and also ordered them from Cornwall Model Boats. I buy all modelling items from them. Cheapest shipping to Canada, great selection, no minimum buying requirements.

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