HMS Beagle by Tecko - OcCre - 1:60

[Tecko]

I tested both the red and warm white-colored micro LEDs and chose a different value for R (see above, post #101). The value for RV is 10k ohms.
Here, R = 150 ohms. It's the right degree of maximum brightness from my point of view.

Red LED

[Tecko]

While waiting for the glue to dry on the planking of the fore and aft upper decks, I painted the cannons with metallic brass paint. 

The cannons, even after two coats, have a tarnished look about them, which I like.

In case you were wondering why I chose to brass the cannons...

[Tecko]

[Capt. Brant]

Hi Peter,

Great job so far! love all the thorough research you are doing, and the modifications you are making along the way. I am working on the same kit, but I am a little ahead of you, wish I could go back and make some of the changes you did! Interested in seeing how it progresses. Are you still planning on some sort of custom stand or display case for this model? I am trying to think of nice ways to display mine that wont break the bank too much.

Cheers, 

Brant

[Maid of the Mist]

Assuming ChatGPT is accurate 😉 that stuff about using brass cannons instead of iron is really interesting and helps explain why OcCre suggests painting them a copper-ish colour, rather than the usual black.

[Tecko]

13 hours ago, Capt. Brant said:

Great job so far! love all the thorough research you are doing, and the modifications you are making along the way. I am working on the same kit, but I am a little ahead of you, wish I could go back and make some of the changes you did! Interested in seeing how it progresses. Are you still planning on some sort of custom stand or display case for this model? I am trying to think of nice ways to display mine that wont break the bank too much.
Brant

Hi Brant. Thanks for the compliment.

Yes, I am still making a display case, but a different base design since I am no longer making a diorama.

I have never made a display case before, and I am not a carpenter either, but I have confidence that it will turn out okay. My main concern is the weight of it all if I am using 3mm glass sheets. I don't like plexiglass/Perspex.

Additionally, at this moment, I am unsure exactly how I will terminate the wiring. I am going to use ordinary PVC electrical tubing as hollow stands between the hull and the display base. The wires will be channeled through them.

Because I plan to have some control over the lighting (switching and dimming), there will be a lot of wires exiting through the stands. Once the wiring harness is sorted, I can then start planking the hull, which I am looking forward to having a go at. 

[Tecko]

4 hours ago, Maid of the Mist said:

Assuming ChatGPT is accurate 😉 that stuff about using brass cannons instead of iron is really interesting and helps explain why OcCre suggests painting them a copper-ish colour, rather than the usual black.

If it is accurate, then the cannon balls need to be brass as well. 😉

[Tecko]

Throughout the festive season, I fell (caught two bouts of cold in the middle of summer!). Being 70+ y.o. is vastly different from being 60+.

Anyway, I did get to do a bit here and there towards the build.

 

I hesitated attaching the upper aft deck due to needing to put the helm section underneath it, as well as a night (red) light. I decided it was best to put those bits in first.

 

Since the sailors of the period were short in stature, even 1:72 scale figures were too tall for a 1:60 scale ship. I had to cut the poor helmsman down to size. I also amputated his arm to relocate it to handle the helm's wheel. I think the helsman will look better after I paint him.

At first, I really botched up both the Marine and Binnacle compasses. They are bloody small! And my peepers are not exactly on the ball.

I tried to drill out the Binnacle compass window, but that did not work out too well. However, to some degree, I was able to recess the red micro LED into it. My goal is to have some sort of light reflection onto the helmsman. Something like in the following image...

[Tecko]

The helm's wheel was attached to the deck. The steering rope was fed through the deck and glued to the framework to show tension in the rope.

I was not too happy about the cutdown version of the helmsman, so I operated on him again. This time, instead of just cutting his legs, I cut a piece out of his midsection and some of his lower legs. This made him more proportional in appearance. I found that Blu Tack works well to keep loose parts in place while gluing with Supa glue.

Then I stuck the figure on some copper wire, as a stand, to paint it.

[Tecko]

The upper deck has not yet been attached. The 3mm LED is not ON; it's just the external light diffusing through the clear LED housing. This LED is actually a red LED for night vision.