Thermopylae by Adrian Hunter - Sergal - Scale 1:124

[Adrian Hunter]

So,,, Model number 2

 

I chose the Thermopylae as who doesnt love clippers and I got on quite well with this brand in my first build.

 

From the forum I see that others have tried this model, and to be honest if I had read their posts before I bought I may have thought again, but here we are... Luckily I am fairly pragmatic in my building and not being too anal about absolute authenticity will within reason 'adjust' the instructions to suit my ability and a pleasing result.

 

Initial thoughts - I agree with others. If you want a kit where you folow the instructions and get what is on the front of the box this is probably not the kit for you. I am already finding that fettling is required and see that at least some parts will need to be scratch built. The instructions basically come in plan form. Luckily I am an officer in the Merchant Navy so I can read a general arrangement with some confidence, but without this I think that I would be lost. Written instructions are in Italian, although quite a good English translation is available to download here.

 

So far I have spent a couple of weeks on this project off and on, so lets have a look...

 

 

The basic framing and sub deck seemed to go in quite easily. Forward and aft frames were chamfered as suggested.

 

The main deck was then glued in place

 

 

and then the focsle and poop decks.

 

 

So far so fairly good. On to the planking.

 

This is a double plank model, which I have not tried before, but I enjoy a challenge!

 

The runs seem quite reasonable except up onto the stern without too much bending required as yet.

 

Progress to date is below, you will see that I have also started on some of the deck structures. The deck house that positions just aft of the Foremast is meant to have a convex roof, but I decided that this was more trouble than it was worth and sanded it flat. I think this looks quite acceptable and saved me a lot of stress!

 

The Lifeboats are as suggested by Popeye in his write up being Amati 50mm. I think they are a bit big for the model looking more like a longboat than a lifeboat, but they do look good. I will probably finish painting them and then decide if I will use them.

 

 

And that is about it for now. I will add more as I work, but due to work it may be some time before anything is forthcoming...

Edited November 25 by Adrian Hunter

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

   The most obvious difference from the prototype on Sergal's model - easily seen from a distance - is that the planking at the stern angles nearly vertical.  The original ship's stern angled outward ... see the image below.  You haven't go that far yet with planking, and with an extension to the poop deck the stern angle could be added.

  The other external feature is that Thermopylae did not have protruding channel to mount the deadeyes for the shrouds on.  The gunwales were wider than average, so the deadeyes were mounted on the outer part of the gunwale where it overhung the bulwark.  This is another correction that can be made.

  The images of a Thermopylae model by Cyril Hulmes on display in the Powerhouse collection (they offer public images on line at https://collection.powerhouse.com.au/object/211834   - samples below) can provide clear insights, as the modeler interviewed surviving ship's crew members before proceeding.  One I'm working on will not have the anchor chain go as far back on deck ... a possible feature at the beginning of the ship's life, nor will i include the pair of cannon - also something from the early days that was soon discarded.  The ship had other modifications over the years, the most obvious was the conversion to barque rig for the Northwest timber transport that followed a stint in the Australian wool trade.

  1:124 is a challenge for a clipper of her size (mine is 1:110), and I'm considering using brown Czech demi-round beads for blocks (2.2 & 3mm) and deadeyes (4mm) found at a bead show.  They are flattened (non spherical) and have a matte finish.

 

 

[Adrian Hunter]

Johnny,

 

Thanks for your thoughts, the stern is certainly different so i may have a play...

 

Happy Modelling!

[Adrian Hunter]

Nothing on the hull to report - I am on holiday, But... to feel like I was doing something whilst I am away I thought that I would start some of the rigging.

 

I decided to use an Amati Loom-a-line. I know that I could have achieved the same thing with a bit of plywood and a few nails, but as it was fairly cheap (about $10) I went for it anyway.

 

As you can see my first attempt on the left is somewhat wayward and will be discarded, although I am happy enough with try two for the mizzen.

 

And the frame - I think worth the money. The pins are a bit tight in some places and fall out of others, but now I am getting used to it it is helpful, and also very adaptable for exact requirements and scale.

[Adrian Hunter]

Hi All,

 

A quick update on recent progress...

 

 

As you can see not too much added. I did get some rigging done on holiday, this has been set aside until such time as I make the masts!

 

On my return I did have a look at the stern (thanks for the advice again Johnny), but decided that I am too far down the road to make any major structural changes, and in honesty it is probably beyond my current skill level! So, I will be keeping to the plans even if they are not totally accurate historically.

 

 

I have been cracking on with some smaller pieces, the hatch covers are done and I have painted a bit more of the boats.

 

 

The only other thing is the wheel. The plans said to take the provided wood block, chamfer the top and then make some legs out of wire to give it the height for the wheel to clear. I didnt like this so I have built up the botton of the block instead.

 

 

And that is about it. I am back at work so it will be the end of January until I get any more done.

 

Until then Happy Holidays and Happy Modelling!

[Nem0]

Hello Adrian,

I had (in the past) and have again the same ship. Beautiful. I started at the time (never made a wooden ship before) but never carried on.

I bought it again a couple days ago and this time I'll try to build her and more important finish her.

I will be following your build in the meanwhile.

Since I've read on the site that the Sergal kit is quite different than the real ship, I bought "Fast Sailing Ship" book by McGregor to check it.

One question: the two (I bought two at the time) kits I had didn't have printed decks while the one I bought recently does.

What about yours?

[Adrian Hunter]

My kit does not have the printed decks. Instead I have marked the centreline along the whole length of the model, and I will use this to start off when I get to decking to that it is all uniform.

 

One other thing - My kit came with an etched metal sheet containing doors, nameplate etc. I do not like this medium and bought a wooden equivalent online quite cheaply that I am far happier with. You can see it on the crew accommodation in my pictures. 

 

It seems it is luck of the draw what you find inside the box sometimes!

 

Good luck with your model - this one is quite challenging!

Edited Saturday at 12:35 PM by Adrian Hunter

[Nem0]

Yes, my kits both have etched metal parts. I'm trying to understand if it's a leftover stock item or something else.

Here you see the new kit on top, the old on the bottom.

 

 

[Ian_Grant]

Hi Adrian, Thermopylae is indeed a beautiful ship. I realize you haven't built many ship models, but I do encourage you to rig your shrouds in place on the model rather than using a shroud jig. The trouble with shroud jigs is that a given set of shrouds ends up tapering to a single thread at the top which cannot be attached to a mast head in any realistic manner. In reality, shrouds are rigged in pairs with the middle wrapped around the mast with the loop "seized" at the side of the mast. "Seizing" just means a second short line is tied around the two threads to lock them together. Also, each pair of shrouds is wrapped around the masthead just above the preceding pair, alternating between port and starboard shrouds, leading to a stack of ropes passing around it. The single line from a shroud-jigged set of shrouds cannot replicate this stack which in my opinion is a very noticeable part of ship rigging.

 

Just my opinion.......you can ignore me, I won't be offended. 😉  Ultimately it's your model and whatever makes you happy is great!

 

Anyway here's a pic of fore shrouds on an old model of mine during construction. You see the effect..............

[Adrian Hunter]

Nem0, I have the bottom of your pictured kits. Maybe they are just different editions of the kit?

 

Ian, Many thanks for your input. I do take your point on historical accuracy. At this point I must temper this against my own capability! We shall see. I only finished a few shrouds on the jig, and their rigging is still so far in the distance that I may well attempt what you suggest when I get there.

 

If nothing else the jig has improved my miniature clove hitches!