Endurance by Pierre Greborio - OcCre - 1:70

[Pierre Greborio]

Hello! This is my first build log. I hope I don’t mess up 😇

 

I come from the world of Lego, and about one year ago my wife kindly “suggested” to move to something that would slow me down a bit. One year ago I started my first kit, Albatros, followed by Palamós, Polaris, Calella, San Juan and Endeavour Yacht Model - 1934 America’s Cup. I am now about to start a more challenging project, the Endurance. I am still a novice and eager to learn new techniques and do more research.

 

I have been reading several exceptional build logs, @clearway, @Tomculb, @theoracle09, and @HakeZou, and did some research online to capture as many pictures as I can.

 

For this project I thought of challenging myself a bit. I would like to build a diorama of the ship when it got stuck, or right before, in Antarctic sea ice in January 1915, after entering the Weddell Sea. With a bit of luck, something interesting will come. I hope 😅

[Pierre Greborio]

After checking all the material and plans

 

I moved to dry test al pieces

 

 

Then I made three modifications to the kit, as suggested by @Tomculb in his build log

1. Cut an open area between the first and second bulkheads to accomodate the windlass
2. Cut the propeller space trapezoid rather than half moon

3. Enlarged the portholes to 4mm

By mistake I glued the parts before cutting the open area, so my cuts are not very clean. With a bit of sanding I can clean up that area.

 

 

 

Edited Monday at 12:03 AM by Pierre Greborio

[Pierre Greborio]

After conducting some research on deck planking, I discovered several features that deviate from the kit specifications and require adjustments.

 

Plank width

Upon comparing photographs with the kit plans, it is evident that the planks are more than double the required dimensions (https://modelshipworld.com/topic/39482-endurance-deck-planks-on-170-scale/). Consequently, I have decided to reduce the plank thickness to 1.75 mm.

 

Nails

It is suggested to draw nails at the end of each plank. Looking at multiple pictures I fail to see any nail.

 

By the time the Endurance was built in 1912, shipwrights used a technique called "Counterboring and Plugging" to hide all metal fasteners. Months in the Antarctic, the saltwater, ice, and coal dust weathered the entire deck to a uniform "silver-gray" or "charcoal" color, masking the circular outlines of the plugs. Plus the decks were frequently "holy-stoned" (scrubbed with sandstone and seawater), which kept the surface extremely flat and level. I decided to skip nails altogether.

 

Stain

The deck was primarily constructed from Norwegian Fir and Oak. Unlike the hull, which Shackleton had repainted from white and gold to a stark black (to make it more visible against the ice), the deck was generally left unpainted. When fresh, the wood would have been a warm, pale honey-tan or creamy yellow (typical of fir). But once the ship reached the Antarctic, the constant exposure to saltwater, intense UV light, and abrasive ice crystals would have weathered the wood. This turns the tannins in the wood a "driftwood silver" or soft gray.

 

The long gaps between the planks were made watertight using a process called caulking. Sailors hammered unspun hemp fibers (oakum) soaked in pine tar into the seams and then poured hot pitch or "marine glue" over the top. This created the dark, thin lines you see running the length of the ship in photos.

 

I treated the edges of each plank with graphite bars, subsequently glued them together. Following this, I sanded the planks to achieve a smooth surface. Finally, I applied a couple of coats of weathered aged wood finish, utilizing a combination of #0000 steel wool and white vinegar, which was left to react for two days.

 

Here is the result of my experiment (the picture lost a bit of gray). I feel pretty good about it and ready to start the real deck planking. 

 

[Admiral Rick]

Your experiment with the deck planking is interesting and looks great. Have you tried experimenting with minwax weathered oak. It gives a gray color but not as dark as you are trying to achieve. Maybe you can add to it to make it dark. I used it to stain the basswood encompassing  the steam boiler. I’m  enjoying following your progress. 
Rick

Edited yesterday at 12:19 AM by Admiral Rick

[Pierre Greborio]

Thank you Rick. I haven't tried minwax weathered oak. I added a bit more vinegar to make it lighter, still waiting for the result. I should try your suggestion.

 

Also my photo is not really representative. For some reason the gray is lost 🤔

Edited yesterday at 12:50 AM by Pierre Greborio

[Admiral Rick]

Pierre to get black caulking between the deck planks I use a #11 to a #14 soft lead artist pencil you can get at Michaels and I color both plank edges prior to cementation. (Is that the same as graphite bars)  When the deck is sanded the effect looks great. 
Rick

Edited yesterday at 03:46 AM by Admiral Rick